JFP in PA

Half shafts are different as well, as are the rear hubs, carriers, and ebrake assemblies.

I'm a bit of a "belt and suspenders" person, so I would vote to take a pass on the track time until the car is correct. Perhaps others might want to chime in on this................

Time flys when you are having fun...............

I'm pretty sure it has to be monitored at all times Mike, we have had more than one car towed in because the owner thought it had a dead fuel pump that turned out to be a bad CPS. Normally, when the CPS goes, you get hard starting, particularly when hot; but not always. The CPS is also the DME's reference for ignition timing (it has to know exactly where the engine is in its rotation cycle in order to pick the correct moment to fire the plugs in relation to that rotation). It is also the baseline reference for cam deviation values. If the OP has a loose, pinched, or frayed wire carrying the CPS signal to the DME (remember, the car has just been apart), all Hell can break loose for the DME......

Have you actually watched the fuel pressure during one of the cranks but won't start sessions? Along with providing the DME with the crank position data, if the DME looses the CPS signal, it will shut the fuel pump off because it thinks the engine is not turning. It would be very interesting to see the CPS signal via a pin out box at the DME because if there is any interruption of the signal (pinched or frayed wire, etc.) the DME would promptly shut the fuel supply off...............

If you are trying to test it, the Durametric software or a PIWIS/PST II can activate it; otherwise Loren is correct, the DME will run the fan if and when needed.

Very good point Ahsai, thanks for sharing your knowledge.You're welcome. It's been fun following this thread :)Btw to the OP, I think it would still be worthwhile to put a fuse in series with the fan and power it up directly from the battery/ctek. If the fuse blows, we can be sure it's the fan. All it costs is a fuse, no need to get any clamp meter. DO NOT use the CTEK for this, its has only low current capabilities for maintaining memory settings trying to run a 15 amp circuit with it will blow the fuse in the CTEK unit........JFP, thanks for catching that. I didn't realize we're talking about 15A since that fan looks puny to me. Ctek can supply up to 7A in supply mode though for future reference. Use the car battery with a 15A fuse in series then.I just measured my fan (996 c2) using a 12v security backup battey. It draws ~6A initially for a split second then goes to 3.5A at steady state. A lot of people make that expensive mistake, often damaging the CTEK before the fuse lets go.Actually the ctek has circuits to potect itself from overloading in supply mode. Way smarter than I thought. From the owner manual" In this mode, MULTI US 7002 can also be used as a power generation unit for operating equipment that requires 13.6V and a maximum of 7A. If the selected current exceeds 7A, the output voltage will drop as the load increases. The charger has electronic overload protection in this mode, which is activated if the charge is so great that the output voltage from the charger falls below around 9V and the current ís around 7A. In the event of an overload, the charger goes into error mode (lamp 0). Supply mode is indicated with lamp D and lamp 5."Is there also a physical fuse inside? I would expect so for last line of defence....maybe i will open up mine and check. The owner manual doesnt mention any fuse. There is a fuse (3 amp if memory serves) in the line going to the load, it is not in the box itself (the box like bump in the wires): Just to satisfy my own curiosity to see what's inside the US7002 ctek, I opened it up. There is a min-blade 30A fuse soldered in. I figured that they also had some internal protection as well as the external fuses, CTEK is definitely one of the better maintainers out there.

The picture from JFP post #80 shows "The Hook" from Power probe inc (around $400.00) but I think the Power probe III can do the job and it is around $100.00 but I think it is not reading amperage. Very few testers can measure amperage because the internals in the meter have to be beefed up to handle the current.

Because of the way they are set up, one probe can do a lot of functions, which lets one tech get a lot more accomplished unaided. Power Probe is just one brand, shop around for one that had the best set of features, or happens to be on sale.

Most inexpensive multimeters are not designed to handle much of a current load (this is when the current load is passing thru the meter itself), and often have an internal fuse rated at less than 1 amp to protect the meter from being burnt by too much amperage. For future reference, say a birthday or father's day gift, get yourself something like this Power Probe tester: These things cannot only test circuits for continuity and resistance, then can also deliver 12V power to run something like a fan.

Most inexpensive multimeters are not designed to handle much of a current load (this is when the current load is passing thru the meter itself), and often have an internal fuse rated at less than 1 amp to protect the meter from being burnt by too much amperage.

Very good point Ahsai, thanks for sharing your knowledge.You're welcome. It's been fun following this thread :)Btw to the OP, I think it would still be worthwhile to put a fuse in series with the fan and power it up directly from the battery/ctek. If the fuse blows, we can be sure it's the fan. All it costs is a fuse, no need to get any clamp meter. DO NOT use the CTEK for this, its has only low current capabilities for maintaining memory settings trying to run a 15 amp circuit with it will blow the fuse in the CTEK unit........JFP, thanks for catching that. I didn't realize we're talking about 15A since that fan looks puny to me. Ctek can supply up to 7A in supply mode though for future reference. Use the car battery with a 15A fuse in series then.I just measured my fan (996 c2) using a 12v security backup battey. It draws ~6A initially for a split second then goes to 3.5A at steady state. A lot of people make that expensive mistake, often damaging the CTEK before the fuse lets go.Actually the ctek has circuits to potect itself from overloading in supply mode. Way smarter than I thought. From the owner manual" In this mode, MULTI US 7002 can also be used as a power generation unit for operating equipment that requires 13.6V and a maximum of 7A. If the selected current exceeds 7A, the output voltage will drop as the load increases. The charger has electronic overload protection in this mode, which is activated if the charge is so great that the output voltage from the charger falls below around 9V and the current ís around 7A. In the event of an overload, the charger goes into error mode (lamp 0). Supply mode is indicated with lamp D and lamp 5."Is there also a physical fuse inside? I would expect so for last line of defence....maybe i will open up mine and check. The owner manual doesnt mention any fuse. There is a fuse (3 amp if memory serves) in the line going to the load, it is not in the box itself (the box like bump in the wires):

Very good point Ahsai, thanks for sharing your knowledge.You're welcome. It's been fun following this thread :)Btw to the OP, I think it would still be worthwhile to put a fuse in series with the fan and power it up directly from the battery/ctek. If the fuse blows, we can be sure it's the fan. All it costs is a fuse, no need to get any clamp meter. DO NOT use the CTEK for this, its has only low current capabilities for maintaining memory settings trying to run a 15 amp circuit with it will blow the fuse in the CTEK unit........JFP, thanks for catching that. I didn't realize we're talking about 15A since that fan looks puny to me. Ctek can supply up to 7A in supply mode though for future reference. Use the car battery with a 15A fuse in series then.I just measured my fan (996 c2) using a 12v security backup battey. It draws ~6A initially for a split second then goes to 3.5A at steady state. A lot of people make that expensive mistake, often damaging the CTEK before the fuse lets go.

Very good point Ahsai, thanks for sharing your knowledge.You're welcome. It's been fun following this thread :)Btw to the OP, I think it would still be worthwhile to put a fuse in series with the fan and power it up directly from the battery/ctek. If the fuse blows, we can be sure it's the fan. All it costs is a fuse, no need to get any clamp meter. DO NOT use the CTEK for this, its has only low current capabilities for maintaining memory settings trying to run a 15 amp circuit with it will blow the fuse in the CTEK unit........

It is looking more and more like a fan issue as you have pretty much eliminated everything else. Decent clamp on ammeters (we have a Fluke 325, which is very accurate on the low DC voltage and current you would find in a car), but these things get expensive quickly. We can justify the expense because we use it everyday, but they are a bit much for the DIY market. But as they say, "He who dies with the most tools wins............." Go put your feet up and knock back a couple cold ones. :cheers:

Yeah, that would be real popular on the home front.....................not! :eek: Of course I was just kidding JFP!!! I think we can consider Silver fan at fault! I was unable to check the current draw of my fan due to a faulty multimeter. Good to know that I need a new one now!!! Fan part# 996 624 036 04 and only $74.80 at Sonnen.... I knew you were kidding; but my better half goes to great lengths to make sure I am not disturbed when I am away from the shop.

The "cool tool" to test the circuit would be a clamp on ammeter: The clamp and the top goes around the wire you want to test and gives very accurate readings of the current draw (amps) on the circuit. But as these things cost about $300, an inline cheap ammeter would be the way to go; or you could jump for this $12 beauty from Harbor Freight:

Yeah, that would be real popular on the home front.....................not! :eek:

And the fan's current draw would have to be less than the rating on the line fuse.

Boy, I take a quiet morning and you guys are having a fun time.............. To check the amperage draw on the circuit at the fan, you will need to put an amp gauge of some sort in line with the circuit at the fan connection.

I can do that. One question -- I have a CTek 7002. Doesn't it have a mode where it can actually act as a battery? i wonder if I could use that??? Might be easier than removing the fan if that's possible. No, it has a setting to maintain memory settings, but that is a very low amperage supply. If the circuit is shorted, or the fan it bad, it would simply blow the fuse in the Ctek.

With the fan relay out, you want to look at the resistance (you are actually reading continuity) between the terminals on the plug that goes into the fan and a suitable ground point, With the relay out, there should be no path to ground in the harness between the fan and the relay; so when you do this test, you are just looking at the wires and nothing else. You want to spin the fan up for a bit and keep it running to see if it locks up due to a bad bearing or other internal component, which would overload the circuit and blow the fuse.

You need to run two wires, one to the battery + terminal, the other to a suitable chassis ground and then touch them to the fan connector to see if it quickly spins up. You can take the fan out of its current location to run this test so the wires are shorter. Just be careful with the + wire and be prepared to pull it away from the fan if the fan blades do not quickly and easily start spinning.

I would remove the relay and check the wiring running to the fan, testing both wires for continuity to ground (a short). I would also consider rigging up a set of jumper wires and trying to run the fan by itself (unplugged from the harness) as jpflip is suggesting to see how the fan behaves; while nothing jumped out while checking the fan previously, it is time to see if it actually works.

Jpflip has the diagram upside down for some reason (look where the maxi fuse for the air pump is in the diagram vs. your picture)............ The three red colored relays are all the same part numbers; #8 is the fan, #9 is spoiler retract, and in the bottom row #3 is spoiler extension. If you need, I can scan a photo from the manual (looks just like your photo) and post it with the relay locations.