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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. If the plug in #5 is not bad, it is probably either the coil pack or the coil pack connector. Try moving the suspect coil to another cylinder, if the code moves with it, you need a new coil.
  2. Unless I'm mistaken, you cannot sell or trade in a car with an emissions issue in CA unless the vehicle is going to be scrapped, so fixing it may not be an option.............
  3. What you want is a tool that looks like this: These tools can separate the ends without damage, unlike the old "pickle fork" and hammer approach............ You can find this at just about any auto parts outlet, or Harbor Freight.
  4. If you do not hear a "fan-like" sound ion cold start (which is actually the SAI pump kicking in), that is probably the root of your "not ready" issue. What you might want to do is listen to another car on cold start that is acting normally. The SAI blows air into the exhaust during cold start to offset the slightly rich start up mixture conditions and keep the car within emissions specs. If yours is not making the fan-like sound, yours is not working properly. Common failure points in the SAI is the electric change over valve and general crud build up in the system.
  5. Try triggering the SAI system and see what the Durametric says..................
  6. Probably not. What specific codes are you getting, and what is the year and model of your car?
  7. Loren, aren't the wiring harness connection for the DME's different on some 986's and 987's?
  8. While I have no idea what acutally went on with this thread, I have to agree with Loren: Air bag MIL's do not reset themselves, and only a PST II, PIWIS, or a Durametric system can reset and clear them.
  9. Cars with the LN 160 stat reset after a couple of drive cycles without issue................
  10. Somewhere between one and one million miles. Seriously, there is literally no rhyme or reason to when or how these things fail. The early ones were more prone to crapping out than the later ones, due mainly to a redesign by Porsche. We recommend that customers replace them at opportune times when the process is quick and simple, like when the gear box is out to do a clutch.
  11. When your AOS fails, you do not need a warning light, just look in the rearview mirror: if it looks like you are spraying for insects behind you, your AOS is gone............. Excellence magazine recently had an article about the AOS and showed how to test it with a manometer; which while all well and good, most knowledgeable techs just try to remove the oil filler cap while it is running
  12. There should be a low vacuum under the oil fill cap; these are low tension ring motors and require a slight vacuum in the cases to help control oil and blow by gasses. If the vacuum becomes very high (hard to nearly impossible to remove the oil cap while idling), it is a sign of a failing AOS.
  13. You will probably be fine; as I mentioned, this is a common issue.
  14. Quick question: Did this code trip just after filling the tank? Reason I ask is that the early cars seem more prone to throw this code after a fill up, and when that happens the code is usually a “ghost” code caused by a momentary purge line blockage during the filling process. If it was, clear the code and it most likely will not come back, at least until your next fill up. If the code comes back, see below. Normally, if the P0446 code is thrown, it is caused by a blockage if the air purge line in the EVAP system. This code can often be corrected by simply blowing air through the pu
  15. If memory serves, Mike Focke has some sources listed on his site: Mike's website
  16. These systems have multiple electronic sensors (high pressure, low pressure, high temperature, etc,) anyone of which can shut off the clutch on the compressor to prevent further damage to the system. Unless you have the tools and knowledge to diagnose and service this system, you would be better off taking the car to someone that does. And do not try to just add more R134A with one of the cheap aftermarket fill kits; if the system already has the correct fill level, you will overfill it, and when you did get the compressor to run, you could end up doing some very expensive damage.
  17. Loren, the Castrol Edge Pro listed is not yet available in North America, only Europe and the far east. That said, it is very interesting oil, which we hope will become available here.
  18. While we only have a handful of UoA's for the "new" Syntec (Castrol Edge with Syntec technology), so far it is looking pretty good compared to the old Syntec. And 10W-40 is the standard oil we use a lot of M96/97 engines year round, so you will be fine. You should also note that the old Syntec 10W-40 out performed the old Syntec 5W-40, particularly in its ability to stay in grade under high heat/high shear conditions.
  19. Thank you, very helpful. I got the fitting loose and was able to drain it. I had someone hold the clutch pedal in for about 30 seconds, then pumped it a few times until all bubbles were clear and then tightened and was done. Is that about right? As long as it was being "pumped" with the bleeder closed, yes.
  20. Your best option is a very short double box wrench, I have a Craftsman wrench that is about 3" in length that works perfectly for this; pull the rubber cap off the bleeder, put the wrench on the fitting, then the drain tube. This way you can crack open the fitting with the wrench on it in the limited space available. Tighten the fitting when you are done, and remove the tools in reverse order.
  21. A quick caveat before we get started: Multiple codes can become a bit of an "Easter egg hunt" as two different codes alone may indicate two separate issues; but the same two codes appearing together may indicate a third and totally different issue. That said: P0150 indicates a short in the wiring for the O2 sensor ahead of the cat on cylinder bank 4-6. P1128 & 1130 indicates that the O2 sensors have reached their limit of enrichment (overly lean conditions) P1128 for bank 1-3; P1130 for bank 4-6. P1123 & 1125 indicates that the o2 sensors have reached their lean limit (overly
  22. We do it all the time, makes future service events a snap. Just be sure to use a proper tool (we use a metal panel punch) and de-burr the opening when you are done.
  23. A couple of small, but eminently salient points: 1. I did not see any "personal attacks", but I did see an appropriate reminder of the forum guidelines concerning posting protocols and decorum. 2. Everyone is entitled to their opinions, but at the end of the day, Loren's count a bit more; he owns the forum. Have a nice day...................:rolleyes:
  24. He already owns the solution to one of the major issues, the LN upgrade bearing. You can pull it from this engine and install it in another one without any issues, making the replacement basically bullet proof. If you did this swap, you would not be the first, several owners have moved the LN bearing from one engine to another without issue; in fact, some LN bearings are on their third "home". If it were mine, and as nice as you say it is, I would start looking for a good replacement engine.................
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