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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Perhaps; but as Warren Buffet once commented, “It is real easy to look like you can walk on water when you know where all the rocks are; but it takes years of getting wet to find them all.” Quite often, when working in very confined spaces like this project, something as dumb as the position you hold your hand in while inserting it in there makes all the difference in the world.
  2. Yeah, bank 1 is not looking good, and bank 2 does not look far behind. Porsche will not be of any help as you are way past the warranty points. But it never hurts to ask, you may catch them on a good day……… Cats die from vibration, age, and mileage unless fouled out by something like engine oil. I doubt anything upstream is an issue. You may be shocked to find that most dealers now impose a "core charge" for old cats, not unlike alternators or starters. Even dead, the rare metal inside the cat is recoverable and quite valuable.
  3. Take a look from the top down after removing the intake air tube, if you are using the sensor wrench I like, you should be able to get 3/8 drive extensions down to it (place sensor wrench on the sensor from below, then work from above), perhaps with a "wobble" joint in the middle depending upon the length of your extensions.
  4. If it does anything connected to a BMW, it would be purely a coincidence; Porsche diagnostics are pretty unique, even tools designed for VW ( a sister company) have very limited utility on a Porsche. You would be better off getting a generic OBD II scanner....
  5. The three-way is actually easier to change as the precat requires pulling the header, which almost guarantees snapped off studs in the heads.................
  6. The cars came in multiple configurations between 1997 and 2004; some of the earliest US cars had only one cat (main three way) with sensors before and after it, then came the two cat version with sensors ahead and behind the precat, with none after the main cat (what you are describing). Then came the more conventional configuration with sensors ahead of the precat and behind the main cat. Add in the "RoW" (read non US) cars that only had one O2 sensor rather than two, and then in 2005 you get the US cars with two cats, one integrated into the side of the muffler assembly (red arrows below) just to confuse things even more:
  7. Think of it this way: Quite often, the car is trying to talk to you, if you will only listen...............
  8. While Porsche does not set a time period for changing out the coolant, over the years we have observed that eventually the coolant will show signs of degradation (change in system pH, rising freeze point, development of cloudiness, etc.). This does not occur at any specific time (we have seen it in five year old cars, and had others go past 8 years with no problems). Being observant would seem more important than a calendar. As the M96 also is also well known for its composite impeller related issues, most cars are probably going to have their system opened to replace the water pump well before the coolant begins to fade.
  9. You non misfire codes appear to be throttle jacking issues (out of range).
  10. Interesting, I was just thinking the same thing...................
  11. The car should have a normal draw in the 40-60 mA range when the car is fully powered down (everything off, then wait about 5 min. or so), anything beyond that is a problem. I would start looking for any aftermarket installs (radar detector, phone charger, iPod, etc.) that is connected to an "always hot" circuit like the cig lighter. We recently had a similar problem car in the shop, and found two small electronic device chargers hardwired into the system buried up under the dash by a previous owner; as soon as they were removed, the car showed a normal draw. If you do not find any aftermarket devices, you then need to start checking the OEM stuff one at a time as they sometimes also can crap out and start an unexpected drain.
  12. Yes, the post three way seem to die first. When the cats die, you often get a rotten type smell, sometimes like rotten eggs, because the unit is not doing the chemcial conversion it is there to do. An addtional thought, if you have a service station near by that does state emissions inspection, ask them if they have a "sniffer", which is a probe that is inserted into the exhaust to measure the gas mixture being emitted (hydrocarbons (HC) in parts per million (ppm), CO2 in percent, and the carbon monoxide (CO) in percent). Some also do NOx. If they do, have them test your car after it is fully warmed up (take it for a ride), you should see something to the tune of 200 PPM or less hydrocarbon, <500 PPM for NOx, and around 0.02 to 0.03% CO; if you do, the cats are fine, it is the sensors.
  13. Main cat failures are not a common event, but they do happen. That said, I would be suspicious of both going south at the same time; that would be a very rare event. You could also do the same test as a road test per the suggestion, and see how the sensors respond to large scale throttle and exhaust volume changes. O2 and cat related codes are not instantaneous, they require cumulative "cycles" with out of bounds values to kick a code, otherwise the car would be throwing a code just about every time you drive it. As mentioned earlier, you have previously thrown an "aging" sensor code, which needs to be evaluated (trying a new sensors on at least one bank) before considering jumping for the cats. Cars with failing cat also often have exhausts that stink because of the failing cats. The three way cats are going to retail around $2K each, sensors look like a bargain by comparison............
  14. Sometimes a load of questionable quality fuel can annoy the sensors, and many times the damage is permanent (fouling). You need to retest the sensors to see where you are.
  15. From the sounds of it, I would bet that the sensor circuit is grounding itself on the pins, perhaps they have modified it to stop the problem. As I have never seen an affected vehicle, I can only speculate. If you have a fax number, shoot me a PM and I will fax the diagrams over to you.
  16. This is a situation where you need to walk a fine line; P0420 and 0430 are the indication of a three way cat problem, but with one massive caveat: If an aged oxygen sensor is coded along with the cat fault, the OEM diagnostic manual recommends retesting with a new sensor to see if the cat fault returns. The reason for this is the aging sensor(s) can give the false indication of a dying cat when there is really nothing wrong with it. And the three ways are very expensive. Previously, you threw a P2096 (Signal Delay Time for Oxygen Sensor Ageing - Above Limit), which indicates one, or both, sensors are slow in responding ("aging"), which makes your situation a "poster child" for looking at the O2 sensors before even thinking about the three way cats. Connect the Durametric and test both sides front and rear O2 sensors to see if they are active and "in bounds" in responding.
  17. Maurice, I do not have any photographs, but I do have an "exploded view" of what Porsche calls "the front roof lining", which is basically everything at the top of the windshield if that would be of anyhelp. It includes the sensor housing, but does not give any great degree of detail. What exactly are you looking for? There was a service notice for the 97 cars on the motion senor, "Boxster Interior Monitor Sensor Mounting [grp9 6/97 9685 9/25/97] 1pg False alarm activation from the Passenger Compartment Monitor Sensor may be caused by the bottom plate of the sensor touching 2 locating pins in the front frame. The 2 locating pins have been shortened as of April 18, 1997 production from VIN 986 VS 623312."
  18. Fault code 0470 CAN comfort in single-wire operationPossible cause of fault- Open circuit in CAN comfort (high)- Open circuit in CAN comfort (low)- Electrical fault on CAN comfort You may need a PIWIS to resync the CAN system.
  19. It looks like you have a CAN bus issue (470, 1336) which may be the root of the other codes. What is the year and model of the car?
  20. While I can openly say that we have had no experience with them, visiting their website I noticed they are also selling what appears to be a PIWIS knock off of some sort for $3300 (including the computer), while the real thing leases (only) for about $17K. That leaves me a bit cold concerning what kind of firm they are. That said, we have gone with GBox in Boulder, CO, (http://www.gboxweb.com/ ) a couple of times with excellent results. Not cheap, but they seem to live up to their reputation.
  21. Go for the suspension first. Besides being cheaper, it will have an immediate and continuous impact on the car's handling; the limited slip will be more $ and will only affect the car's performance when it goes active. If you have not done so already, I would also take some DE lessons to learn how to extract the maximum from the car before spending large amounts of cash upgrading it; driving ability transcends the car's capabilities, you will learn to get the most out of it, regardless of how it is equipped.
  22. Try 6729The code works perfectly.. Thank you so much Anytime..............
  23. No, I run a shop, and we change them for a living. The give away here is that you bought the filter from a dealer, who had to ask you your year and model as there are more than one style filter for the 996 based upon model type (they mount in different places). To be fair, the other dealers probably forgot the cut off date for the change over to the integrated style. And, as a matter of fact, there is a DIY to cover replacing the filter yourself in model years up to 2001, it can be found in the DIY section at the top of this page.
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