Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Not uncommon for the in car system so show low just after the car has been run. Let it sit on a level surface for a bit, say 30 min., and then re-check it, it should be back to where it was when you got done changing the oil.
  2. Two possibilities: Your cap is bad (those ending in “00” are known to be a problem, “04” is the latest revision) You have a trapped air pocket in the cooling system, which is not a good thing. You need to either run a vacuum or atmospheric bleed (run a search for the procedures).
  3. The first kit looks like a Baum B9612K, which is typically about $1K, so it is a pretty good deal.
  4. Calibration is only required if you want to pass inspection and do not want to constantly have an annoying MIL light from the stability management system; so, yes, it typically is necessary and does require the use of a PIWIS system.
  5. The Porsche tool 9656 is nothing more than a 5/16 metal rod with a knob on one end and a slight bevel cut on the other end. Cheap and easy to make for yourself.
  6. You are short on options here; Porsche does not sell the connectors or sections of the harness, only the whole thing. You can try contacting Porsche wrecking yards to see if they can help, or simply make up your own connectors with stuff from somebody that makes weather proof connectors like Weather Pack
  7. Because their focus changed from engine protection to Cafe fuel consumption figures..........
  8. Depends upon what you are trying to accomplish; yes there are cheap, more universal alternatives, some starting around $40. But these units cannot run all of the Porsche specific diagnostics, and cannot clear many of the common trouble codes (air bags, PSM, ABS, etc.) that the brand specific Durametric can. “Speed cost money; how fast do you want to go?”
  9. Totally up to you. What you need to consider is that your road speed in that range is going to be around 70 MPH (+/- depending upon wheel/tire combo) and that a large number of owners are blissfully unaware of the harmonic zones and cruise for long periods at those speeds everyday without a problem. Track usage cars buzz past this range dozens of times every hour, again without issue. The reality of the IMS issue is that, yes, they are somewhat prone to catastrophic failures, but currently at an unknown rate. What is known is that more frequent oil changes and usage of heavier weight
  10. All engines have some RPM zones that create harmonics; on the M96/97 it happens around 3,000 to 3,200 RPM. While there is some limited data that appears to indicate that it is not good for the IMS bearing, the fact that a lot of factory IMS bearing make it beyond 100,000 miles says the day to day risk exposure may not be great.
  11. Many extended warranties turn out to not be worth the paper they are written on, or at best very difficult to enforce, so be very careful before you turn over your cash, you may find out you would have been better off saving it as a contingent for future repairs instead……..
  12. The starter has to come out of the car to do this; either follow the service manual or do a search, removing the starter has been covered several times.
  13. No, the windscreen is removed from the outside.
  14. I'm not surprised as the Brockway R920 is a digital data display system popular with the Honda/Acura crowd................
  15. Rather than going through this twice, why not just replace it? The OEM unit retails for about $20 or so...............
  16. The wear monitor is only for the pads, the rotors do not affect it in any way. The rotors have to be measured manually.
  17. Front rotors have a wear limit measurement, around 22.6 MM if memory serves. Unless they have given you a measurement indicating you are close to that limit, I would question their advice.
  18. This works as well, typically only one application is needed:
  19. Another dead give away would be metal tire valve stems with locking nuts on the outside of the wheels..............
  20. Yes, you will need to bleed the brakes; this is good time to do a complete flush, which should be done every two years anyway. We like, and use Goodridge lines; very well made and DOT compliant. Sold thru many outlets and online, including Tire Rack.
  21. We do this all the time for customers; no, you should not get any codes. Suggest working on one corner at a time, disconnecting the hard lines first (one at a time), and keeping a short length of plugged rubber hose on had to cap the hard line while you disconnect and replace the flexible line. Something a couple inches in length in the 1/4 ID range and suitable bolt to plug the other end will do fine. What the cap does eliminate the need to rush to prevent the rest of the fluid from draining out of the hard lines and allowing air into the ABS control system, which would require either the
  22. Conventional oil is a bad idea on several levels. "Dino" oils have shorter life expectancies than full synthetics, lower heat transfer coefficients, lower detergency, and lower lubricity just to name a few. Rather than go backwards, switch to a full synthetic 10W-40 weight and change it at 5-7K mile intervals; your engine will thank you for it.........
  23. No, the Durametric system will not give you a “bad starter” code. Often, starters that are noisy have a problem with gunk and/or corrosion on the shaft of the Bendix drive, which causes it to stick and make this sound when the edge of the Bendix gear is grating on the flywheel; not a good thing. But it is easily fixable. Pull the starter and clean the Bendix drive with WD 40 or PB Blaster, then lubricate the shaft with DuPont Dry Teflon spray lubricant (does not attract water or dirt, last a long time). You can find this at Lowes. Put the start back in, and enjoy the fact you just fixed
  24. Again, for reasons known only to them, Porsche tends to use weird rated gear oils. The OEM fill containers and tech sheets bear no "GL" ratings at all. When we last polled the larger and more reputable gear oil manufacturer's (not the blenders), most said they have "no direct match" of the OEM gear oils, but felt they had "something suitable that should work"..........right. Considering how much these gear boxes cost, and that we have swapped out a lot of aftermarket gear oils for the OEM brew and found quieter transmissions that shifted better according to their owners, we will stay with
  25. Because of the high internal resistance of a fully discharged battery, you need current more than voltage, in fact, as little as 9V will do it with enough amperage..
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.