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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. When rotating by hand, the hydraulic tensioners and Vario Cam units are relaxed enough to allow the pistons to contact the exhaust valves just enough to bend them if the engine is rotated in the backwards from normal rotation direction. Once that happens, the heads need to come off.
  2. Whatever else you do, NEVER rotate one of these engines backwards, even by hand. You will have problems if you do........
  3. All of those are band aids to trying to escape the obvious: There are many wrong ways to attempt this, and one correct one. In the end, it is your car and your money.....
  4. Sorry, but trying to install a repair device with the head still on the engine is very tricky to nearly impossible. You will be generating a lot of metal filings that simply cannot be allowed to drop into the cylinder bore or they will destroy the cylinder liner. I would not even attempt it in my shop. Your best and safest bet is to pull the head and take it to a machine shop where it can be done properly and safely. Good luck.
  5. Welcome to RennTech There is a central locking/immobilizer controller mounted under the driver's seat and is prone to issues. I would start by pulling the unit, opening it up and looking for signs of corrosion or burnt components. These units can often be cleaned and repaired, which is good because replacing it is expensive and time consuming. Good luck.....
  6. On second thought, I would suggest you contact LN about your idea of a short-term engine assembly, it may be more complicated than you thought. You may also be correct about the honing due to the plated surface.
  7. The window drop range in these cars is built into the central locking/immobilizer system software and I am not aware of any way to reprogram it.
  8. If the rings are going back into the bore they came out of, so that the used rings match how oval the cylinder walls are, possibly; otherwise, you need to hone and re ring it with new rings.
  9. Welcome to RennTech The information you seek is in the owner's manual for the car, but in essence you push the window button down until the window is all the way down and then hold it for a moment. Then push the up button until the window is all the way up and then hold it for just a moment.
  10. I believe the Habor Freight jack you mentioned can tilt somewhat, but I don't know how much as I have never used one. The engine is also going to be slanted downward slightly when you pull the gear box, so being exactly level is not critical.
  11. Going to be very tight at that height; while we normally work on a lift, if pressed to do it on jack stands, I would like to see 22-24 inches. You are also going to need to support the engine while the gear box is out with either a support bar or screw type jack stand with a hockey puck on top to protect the engine case. I have helped friends do this on stands using what are called Lift bars that lock into the cars lift points and 6 ton stands which can get the car safely up high: Shown here under a 986 Boxster: Engine support bar: Screw type jack stand to support engine:
  12. Welcome to RennTech I would say it is unlikely you had the chain bunched, but you now need to be very careful and recheck everything according to the service manual procedures. Most people do not realize you and actually damage the valve train rotating these engines by hand if the timing is far enough off.
  13. Cleaning the flywheel is fine as long as it is not cracked and otherwise OK, and passes the spring back elastomer tests: Tech bulletin on how to test DMF Just do not attempt to resurface it, that will kill the dual mass function and make it worthless.
  14. If you are trying to remove the wires, you will need a metric pin extraction tool set:
  15. You only need to drop the trans to do this job, but you will need to support the engine during the process. On a lift, we use a pole jack with a hockey puck on top to do the job, on jack stands you will need a smaller version, and there are aftermarket engine support bars available that will accomplish the same goal. Changing the AOS is an excellent idea, it will never be as accessible as it is when the trans is out. I would also strongly recommend doing the RMS while you are in there. You will also need all new fasteners for the clutch and flywheel as the factory are all single use items.
  16. I would guess that the valve is directional, most valves you find in the middle of lines tend to be so, we just don’t understand what triggers it into action.
  17. Solenoids are electrically operated, but that valve does not look like a solenoid, so I would have to say that either pressure or vacuum causes it to change.
  18. These valves are prone to sticking; with gas fumes passing thru them, over time they can develop a build up of a varnish like coating which is glue like in consistency.
  19. As your project requires such a huge amount of work, I would vote against the boneyard part as you could end up with a bad part after all that labor, and only finding that out when the car is fully back together. Using the new valve and appropriate hose with quality clamps would seem a safer pathway if you cannot find someone sitting on the new part somewhere.
  20. The Cayman does not have air suspension like the Cayenne, the Cayman has PASM only, which is completely different. The Cayenne system is disabled when lifting the vehicle to prevent the auto leveling system in the air suspension from knocking it off the lift.
  21. Simple: Your Porsche dealer.
  22. What perplexes me is that if this spring remains is from the RMS, why isn't the seal leaking like a sieve? The spring is all that holds the tension of the seal around the crankshaft, without it oil should be all over the place, God knows the seals are prone to leak with the spring still in place.........
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