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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Before installing a one piece flywheel, you need to recognize why the OEM unit is two pieces (dual mass). These engines are short on torsional dampening, most OEM’s use a large mass dampener on the front of the crank to absorb these stresses, Porsche moved it to the flywheel, where in combination with the sprung disc it absorbs drive line shocks, and the flywheel provides torsional relief for the crank and rotating assembly. Without the dual mass flywheel, you run a significant risk of crankshaft cracking or failure as there is now nothing to dampen those stresses. We have seen more than one crank failure for this exact reason. A one piece light weight flywheel can be used if the engine is disassembled and fully harmonically balanced (which the OEM unit is not), but that is obviously a big buck approach to getting quicker RPM response……
  2. That is your problem, the two O2 sensors are looking for the differential change the cat brings, and not seeing it, hence the "Three way catalyst conversion too low" code....... It may be possible to defeat this by having a PIWIS remap your DME to the RoW emissions spec (North American cars are the only ones running four O2 sensors [one before and one after the cat on each side], so the RoW map ignores the second sensor, ending the code). You can still put the O2 sensors through their paces with a multi meter to assure yourself they are working, but I'd bet they are fine as this code is specific to the cat working, which implies the sensors are fine............
  3. Simple: ask them if the have the RMS tool 9699 and the 9699/2 insert guide, and how many of the 997.101.212.00 seals they have installed. If they don't have it, or worse yet don't know what you are talking about, be very afraid.................
  4. P0420 is “TWC conversion too low” on bank 1-3. It is not an O2 sensor per se (assuming they both pass their own diagnostics), it is more likely the cat itself. OBD II manual says to clear it and see if it returns, if does, you need a new cat on that side………….
  5. Let's put it this way, both my cars have the spin on adaptor, as do many of my customers; some of these cars have been running it for a couple of years. As I offer all my customers UoA's as part of their service package, we have collected a lot of oil data running the adaptors. We also cut open all oil filters, spin on and OEM style, to check for debris. To date, I have seen no problems with either the visual inspection or the UoA's; and some of these cars really get run hard. As the cars with the adaptors have no shown any issues, it would appear that the OEM by-pass really doesn't do much of anything.................
  6. This is not a good sign; the Y tube or the tank would leak onto the garage floor, yours sounds like it is not, and I am assuming it is not in the oil either. Most common faults for this are head gaskets, or a cracked head (not that uncommon). Testing would involve pressure testing the cooling system, and doing a “leak down” test on each cylinder to pin point where it is. In any case, the M96 will most likely need to come apart…………..
  7. You need to do a search.............this has be covered numerous times. Yes, the spin on is a good idea, and the lack of a by-pass valve is not an issue as by the time the OEM style cartridge filter plugs up enough for it to open, the engine is toast any way.............
  8. And ususally the one gets robbed.............and complains that the alarm doesn't work...................:rolleyes:
  9. Actually, it does; the compartment cannot be locked unless it is first closed....................
  10. The purge valve is on the left side of the engine, under the intake manifold.................
  11. I think that anyone moving away from normally aspirated versions of these engines is asking for trouble, regardless of the method.....................
  12. So the contents of the arm rest do not get looted with the car is parked with the top down.................
  13. Take a look at Bridgestone's new Pole Position 960, a true all season tire with great grip wet or dry, and are very quiet as well. Have two sets on family cars, very pleased with the handling/bad weather performance balance......................
  14. If you have air trapped in the system, either from replacing the oil cooler, or from the dumping itself, you will continue to have issues until you get the air out.......
  15. The Snap-On unit in my post above is a "stubby" that will fit, most Snap-On dealers carry them at about $7.50..............
  16. First of all, you really do not need to run the pump unless you have gotten air into the system, most delaerships do not use the manual's recommendations unless there is a problem........
  17. Reason you cannot find a Torx socket for it is that it is not a Torx, it is an XZN triple square (10MM if memeory is working) and why are you taking out the gearbox to do CV boots?:
  18. Am I safe in assuming you have gotten the two nuts off the center studs on the bracket circled in blue?
  19. No. Oil/coolant intermix is typically caused by a failed oil cooler, blown out casting plug, bad head gasket, or cracked cylinder head. Do not take this issue lightly; do not use the car until it is found and fixed..................
  20. I would be surprised if a crank position sensor failure did not throw a code..................like P0336 ("CPS out of range")...........
  21. We have had several customers "experiment" with light weight and gel cell racing batteries in street cars, to date, none have been particularly successful. Common problems include dimming/ignition issues with bi-xenon/lits, stero issues, and brutally hard starting issues at even mildly cool weather. Problem is that small, light weight batteries are short on total cranking current (amps) and have significantly lower current reserves to properly operate the car systems. Think of the battery as a type of gas tank, small and light help handling, but brings other drawbacks. Leave the small gel cells for the race track and buy a decent properly sized battery, you will be much better off in the long run. The Optima 34R is a good choice, a bit lighter without sacrificing capacity, and as it is a sealed AGM design, it will live about twice as long on average, and there will never be any chance of corrosion in the battery tray area. Only downsides are it costs a bit more, and require fabricating mounting plate, or buying a commercial kit from someone like Yellow Dog Motorsports. I have four Optima's in my personal cars, one over ten years old, and dozens of customers running them as well, with absolutely no issues……
  22. Stay with the OEM plstic style, they seem to casue few problems than the aftermarket units, and also seem to live longer...........
  23. If you still have the original clutch, it is well past its expected life (usually gone in 40-60K miles), so you shouldn't be surprised. Time to pull the gearbox and renew the clutch and flyhwheel units; also a great opportunity for an updated RMS and IMS, as you need to pull the clutch and flywheel to get at them.................
  24. I'd have to agree that this thing is a waste of time and money. If you can't get your foot down fast enough, technology isn't the issue..............
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