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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. The problem with bore scopes has always been "the smaller the probe diameter, the bigger te pice tag"..............
  2. The factory coolant is readily available for about $22-24/gal (retail) by a board sponsor (Sunset). It is a well known product that demonstrated excellent performance with no problems (as long as it isn't mixed with some of the aftermarket stuff that leads to gelling). Why would you bother looking for something else?
  3. 3M has a special product called "Plastic and Emblem Adhesive" that is used to glue metal and plastic emblems onto painted surfaces. Just about all the body shops use it, as do the OEM's. The product is #08061 and dries clear. Any autobody supply, as well as many NAPA stores carry it...............
  4. Another, and considerably closer soruce would be Carnewal in Belgium Carnewal
  5. Problem is that this setup will cause issues on newer cars (built after 1996) if it cuts power off to the DME (and if it does not, you still have power drain taking place), which will then lose anything the DME has learned, and will reset the DME's "I/M Readiness" mode, meaning the car will not pass inspection in most states as the emissions section will read "not ready" until the car has driven multiple cycles/miles. Charge and load test the battery; it is good, get and use a maintainer. It's one Hell of a lot cheaper than a $100+ device that creates more problems than you had to begin with………..
  6. The Tip is not unlike most any other automatic, the torque converter has to be unbolted from the flex plate and secured prior to pulling the box out, otherwise it is pretty much the same deal.In reality, you do not have to move the Tip away from the engine as much as a manual box, as the alignment lip on the converter is much shorter than the input spline on a manual gear box.
  7. To service the clutch or change out torque converters, you save a fair amount of time (and money) by just pulling the transmission. Does not matter if you are on a lift or jack stands, pulling the entire assembly is more involved and is usually not necessary unless there are complicating factors like all wheel drive units or a need to perform other work that becomes easier with the engine out……….
  8. This has been a general trend thought the automotive industry; in 1997, all Nissans had in-line filters from the factory, by 2004, almost none of them did, using a small filter that is integral to the in-tank fuel pump, but not serviceable separately. If it gets plugged, you install a new pump, just like the newer Porsches…………… The OEM’s collect data and figure out that they are changing plugged fuel filters at nearly the same mileage as fuel pumps, giving them onus to combine the two.
  9. Loren is correct; modern SLI (starting, lighting, ignition) batteries are better at reducing their rate of self discharge than they were years ago. The problem lies in the every increasing number of "convenience" items added to just about all cars these days (on-board computers, alarm systems, sound systems, navigation equipment, etc., etc.), all of which constantly draw low levels of current while the car is shut off. Standard "stand-by" current draw on these cars from the factory in in the range of 40-60 mA; aftermarket add-ons simply increase that load. We have seen the "native" current draw in a Boxster nearly double just from a cell phone charger left plugged in without a phone connected to it. As the battery ages and naturally loses capacity, these drains start to take their toll. This is exactly why battery maintainers have become a big business these days...............
  10. The tanks are now plastic, so no internal corrosion. All fuel supplies are filtered at the pumps now, so source contamination has pretty much been eliminated as well. Getting rid of the traditional in-line filter removes one more service item/potential failure point in the system; and reduces both cost and weight..............
  11. 1128 and 1130 are the same problem on opposite banks (1128 is on cyl 1-3; 1130 is on cyl. 4-6). Most common cause: Leaking air intake............
  12. You may as well drain everything at this point and start fresh. The OEM coolant should cost about $22-24/gal, you will need at least two, plus distilled water.
  13. I would replace the water pump, but I would not use sealant on the thermostat housing. You need to clean the metal mating surfaces (non-scratch scotch brite pad does an excellent job) and then use a new gasket. I would also only use the OEM coolant (you can do a search for info about known compatibility issues) premixed with an equal amount of distilled water (supermarket item, but very important). Once you get the system filled and "burped", you will be set for many years of service.....
  14. Yes, it was most likely caused by an air pocket; this happens frequently with these cars when they run low on coolant due to the design of the cooling system. Refill the system using a vacuum fill, or use the alternative "burping" procedures and you will be fine.
  15. The "non return" or check valve is on the oil supply side of the actuator; I think you are correct on where it is located.
  16. Yes, it can be done on jackstands. Usually, a pair of 4 or 6 ton stands positioned ahead of the rear tires (at the jacking points) will get the car more than high enough to do it. Use hockey pucks ontop of the jackstands to protect the underbody and you are in business...............
  17. Without knowing where you are located, outside temp displays can vary wildly during ambient temperature extremes. Yesterday, the air temp here was 95F; driving around over super heated asphalt, I saw outside temps that ranged from 85F to 110F.............
  18. I would be circumspect about running the engine with the actuator removed as the oil pressure loss could cause starvation elsewhere, causing a entirely new set of issues (oil flows from the pump, to the crank journals, then up to the heads). Ideally, you would pull the actuator in question, and then push oil from the pump up to the now open actuator port (you could drain the engine oil into a suitable container, pump from that container through the engine, and let the returning oil drain back to the container). This is going to require fabricating some items (like a small rubber plug with a suitable tube sticking out of it to use at the oil pump, as the pump oil passage is not threaded, and you are going to have to push the plug in and hold it while the oil is pumping. Obviously, an extra pair of hands is going to be useful for this. A good idea would be to do this first with the actuator that is working properly so that you can see what the flow should look like before checking the problematic unit. Another possibility, and this is a bit of a “wild hare” approach, is to use vacuum rather than pressure. You would need to fab up rubber plugs and lines for both ends (oil pump and actuator port), and add a second collector container on the actuator port end to catch the oil and pull the vacuum from; but this would then become a “one man” operation………….. You could also skip opening up the oil pump entirely, and just use vacuum and the intact oiling system to pull the oil up to the actuator, saving a lot of “wrench time” for the process………
  19. That is going to be complicated…………only way I can envision is to push oil from a pressurized container thru the system from the oil pump side with each actuator alternately removed, as you obviously cannot do this with the engine running. Another possibility would be to push compressed air backwards through the system; I'm trying to think of any downsides to doing this (like how the pressure control valve and spring in the oil pump would respond), and cannot think of any problems pushing air backwards might cause, but I cannot think of anything problematic. Before you assembled the engine, did you blow out the passage ways? Sometimes machine work and block cleaning leaves small bits of trash in these passage ways……… There is also the possibility you may find that one bank has a leaking oil passage way that is bleeding off the oil pressure on one side, but usually that shows up somewhere else, like oil in the coolant. I'm afraid that none of these "Easter Egg hunt" diagnostics are going to be easy or quick………..
  20. Knowing that this is a recently assembled engine, are you sure there isn't anything obstructing oil flow (I have seen problems when people put too much sealant on surfaces and it ends up where it does not belong over time)? These actuators need both pressure and a level of flow volume to work correctly...what kind of oil pressure does the engine have?
  21. You DME will reset, which you need to allow for when state inspection is on the horizon; but why not just put a good battery maintainer on it and leave it connected? I do this for very long periods of time with no problems, you just disconnect and start the car...................
  22. Thanks for your advice. I'm guessing the tank is the original one. It is an .04 revision stamped 99. Sounds like a good idea to replace it. I was contemplating the nipple bypass just because I would love to get it fixed this weekend. :) But I'm not even sure that's the problem - it there a way to tell other than pressure testing it? Or any experiences that helps to point in this direction? Atle 99 Boxster w/996 Turbo front end conversion, 03+ rear w/PDC, 03 roof w/glass window, ++++++++++(!) Pressure testing the entire system is the correct way to go...............
  23. Fred, I am happy for you; replacing the VarioCam actuator is the least objectionable out come................
  24. If you know the final torque required at the fastener, couldn't you back calculate the torque wrench setting for any length special tool;s "arm"?
  25. Porsche has (for many years) used a proprietary gear oil formulation that several oil companies (the honest ones, anyway) admit they do not have a match for. Considering that the OEM fluid is a full synthetic, and doesn’t cost that much, why would you risk an expensive gearbox on what may or may not be a suitable lubricant?
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