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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. The only way to know if the correct amount of oil and gas is in the system is to remove the gas with a freon capture unit, which will pump it out and measure it; and then remove several mechanical system components and pour out the oil and measure it (Porsche publishes a reference table for doing this). Neither is exactly a "backyard" DIY project as the system would then need to be correctly reassembled, evacuated and recharged with gas and oil before it would work again. If the system is working properly, leave it alone; adding too much oil or gas can be disasterous.
  2. +1; we have seen a lot of people try to repair these things, no one had done it to date.......... Replace it before it fails and strands you, or causes an overheat.
  3. Go 50/50, and only use distilled water. The ratio is not just for freeze protection, but corrosion protection as well.
  4. If the VarioCam was acting up, it would throw specific codes, which you do not have. I would still look at the fuel system and run a pressure and delivery rate check.
  5. OK, 1385 is the knock sensor on bank 4-6; not surprising as all the other codes are all cylinder misfires. Could be bad fuel, but I would pull the plugs and have a look at them as something is not right. That said, I would also recheck the 1385 code and make sure it isn't a 1585, which could be a fuel starvation issue and time to check fuel pressure and delivery for a bad fuel filter or failing fuel pump, which would also cause misfire codes.....
  6. You most likely have the last revision IMS assembly in you replacement engine. The good news is that numerically, that design has probably had the fewest IMS failures to date; the bad news is that they still are subject to IMS failure. Any engine with an intermediate shaft is at some level of risk from the unit failing. Porsche “fixed” the issue in 2009 with the 9A1 design engine, which does not use and intermediate shaft………….
  7. It may be low freon, but the question becomes why is it low (if it actually is low). Unless you have the correct equipment, this is a project better left to the pros......
  8. The computer for the alarm system is under the seat and often goes nuts when a car floods. You can take the unit out and dry it and all will be well, and then reinstall it inside a plastic bag to protect it in the future. But still be sure to clean out the drains.
  9. That being the case, be sure to read up on the correct procedures for doing this; in many ways, Porsches are unlike other engines, and you don't want to create additional problems.
  10. What you really need to weigh is the total number of the installed based vs. number of units that have failed. LN has by far the largest installed base, with a very small number of failures, most of which were traced to poor installation techniques or the destruction of the IMS bearing by debris from other engine component failures. Because of the engine design, even the upgraded IMS bearing needs to be considered a “wear item” like brake pads, a water pump, or a clutch; something you expect to have to replace periodically.
  11. First, be careful; there are a lot of nearly useless PIWIS "clones" being sold on the internet, many of China.
  12. I'd say go ahead and try it, I have seen people use the squat "pancake" style portable compressors used to run nailers and it worked, it just took a bit longer to pull full vacuum. After you use this unit once, you will wonder how you ever did coolant changes without it....
  13. As we see a lot of OEM parts, I can assure you that there is no "correct" place on the part this sticker should go, it seems to vary from part to part, and even two of the same parts may have the sticker is a slightly different position.
  14. One that can deliver 80-90 PSIG @ 4-5 CFM is recommended, but I have seen it work with smaller units as well.
  15. The car should hold 25+ inches of vacuum indefinitely if the system is sealed. We typically let cars sit under vacuum for 15 min. as a final leak test before refilling them. You should have bought the Uview unit, it is cheaper than the SnapOn and comes with every adaptor you will ever need..................
  16. Sound absorber wheel housing front left............... http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/997-05-08/807-16.php
  17. Until you sort out this issue, I would not be driving the car. I am not aware of s specific relay for that function, but if there is one, it would be in the rear boot relay panel.
  18. As your car is ROW (rest of world; or non US), you will not see data for the second cam with a Durametric system.
  19. I'm sure there are electrical test procedures, but I am currently away from my shop so I do not have access to the OEM manuals at the moment. Normally, if the solenoid does not trigger, it is not worth testing it, we pull and replace them. They are much like a light bulb, they work or they do not, providing there are no wiring issues.
  20. So far I have tried trigering when the engine was running. There was a noticable engine note change when bank 2 trigered but nothing on bank 1. I will try with the engine not running, also i understand its posible to test the solinoid and sensor ? any idear of ohm readings ? I did expect to see the readings changing on bank 2 ? as the engine speed increased ? Also where is the cam position sensor located ? have looked a couple of times and have yet to see it ? when cold during warming up no problems at all ! regards Brett Starting to sound more like the VarioCam actuator solenoid rather than the cam position sensor, based upon your input. The cam position sensors are located on the top end of each cylinder head (opposite ends for banks 1 & 2): The VarioCam actuator solenoid is a common failure point on these cars, but is easy to swap out once you get to it:
  21. Most probably the cam position sensor on bank 1 is the problem. Should not be a major issue for a shop to verify and/or replace the sensor. The Durametric should be able to tigger the VarioCam unit on that bank, if you hear it "click", but the values do not change, the sensor needs to come out.
  22. What you really need to see is the look on just one of my customer's faces when I tell them how much it is going to cost to replace just one TPM sensor when they bring the car in for regular service with a "no signal" warning on the dash display. And then comes the inevitable question of “Do you replace just the one, or do all of them?” And no shop, dealer or independent, will disable an OEM TPM system; the liability exposure is just too great.
  23. Not necessarily; cracked heads are often found because of intermix issues, not over heating.
  24. It can always be added, but I have to ask why? It is an overly expensive substitute for a tire pressure gauge forced upon the market by the Federal Behavioral Nannies. The wheel sensors alone are going cost over $100 per wheel, and require the tire bead be broken to install, followed by a rebalance. And they have to be periodically replaced. Buy a decent tire gauge; you will be better off...............
  25. That is because the extra 120 degrees tightened past the 19 ft. lbs. is one Hell of a lot more than 19 ft. lbs, and the factory bolts have a locking coating on them..................
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