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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. No, anti seize will not cause the plugs to loosen; more than likely, they were never properly torqued in the first place. The issue with the plugs is you have a steel plug housing threaded into an alloy head in an area that see a lot of thermal swings. That is a recipe for problems as the two metals expand and contract at differing rates. The use of anti seize (in small quantities) on the treads assures that the plug will release and unthread without problems when the time comes.
  2. Not that I am aware of - Porsche says do not put anti-seize on the spark plugs. So, if folks are putting anti-seize on I would try to clean it off. I have never had a spark plug come loose from a Porsche in the 33 years I have been working on them - and I have never used anti-seize. You just plain don't need it on Porsche alloy heads. And in over thirty years of putting plugs in Porsche’s, we never let one out of the shop without anti seize on the plugs……..like other shops, we have seen too many instances where the plugs without it galled and ruined the plug threads. In all those years, we have never had a “come back” because the plugs became lose, and never had a plug gall on us……………….
  3. Then I would get the Amsoil out of it and put the factory fill in; Porsche uses a rather unique gear oil spec that no one seems to have a match for. As the factory stuff is a full synthetic, available and not all that expensive if you shop around; why use another oil that may or may not be compatible with some of the gearbox components...............
  4. And the Wix air filter ( part #42475) sells for $16...................
  5. The part is most likely an specifically calibrated accelerometer, and where it is located is actually critical as you would like it to be as close to the car’s actual center of gravity as possible, so moving it will have some impact on its level of sensitivity and response time…….
  6. I agree with you. Your data is what I have also seen. There are not many spin-on's that will do better than that. No problem, this is all good debate. The spin-on's I sell are marketed as the world's top performing filters and do screen down to 15 microns. That doesn't mean I would ever use one and change the flow at the filter different than that designed at the factory. Do you use a spin-on? Best regards, Bill Several of my client's use the LN adaptor; I am evaluating it on one of my cars as well, in conjunction with UOA's....... the Wix 1042, by-the-by, is rated at 11 gallons per min. max flow, which ain't bad..............
  7. Last time I saw data on the OEM filter (Mahle), the media was rated at 28 microns. The 1042 Wix is rated at 21. The treated paper end caps on the OEM design are also well known for leakage and tearing under severe usage, which is why some aftermarket manufacturers’ of the OEM design replacements use rigid plastic end caps with internal o-rings to create a better end cap seal. As for the magnetic drain plug, I see it more as a tool to catch the development of a problem (e.g.: sudden appearance of ferrous materials on the plug) rather than an analytic tool to measure the metals in the oil, which is the domain of a UOA.... And, after forty years of wrenching on Porsche’s, I can assure you that not all Porsche ideas are indicative of them being “subject matter experts” on many things that have come to haunt Porsche owners over the years. Not to start and argument, but I think this says a lot about the basis your opinion: "I sell the world's top performing spin on filters"
  8. Besides the finer filter media in the spin on filter, probably the biggest advantage is total oil filtration (“full flow” in filtration terminology), the adaptor and spin on filter have no by-pass route as the factory setup does.
  9. Porsche's ONLY real remedy for the IMS failure issue was to remove the intermediate shaft completely from the 2010 engine; otherwise al M96 engines are at some level of risk for IMS failure.................
  10. First, get the battery load tested; it is the only sure way to determine its condition. Once you know the condition of the battery, or replace it, then check your altenator's voltage output.
  11. Get your "wrench" to add a UV dye (Uview & others) to the system when he recharges it, that way if there is still a leak, it will be easy to spot.............
  12. After you vent and collect the current gas, then replace the damaged components, the system needs to be evacuated and held under high vacuum for several min before refilling with a weighed amount of refigerant. While not complicated, it does require speical tools and recovery gear, so it is best left (and in some states, required) to a certified pro.......
  13. Considering how hot the rotors get, wouldn’t you think high temp paint is required?
  14. If you have access to a Bentley manual, the cooler removal is covered in detail. First, jack up the car and remove the rear belly pan. There is a small 5 or 6 MM plug on the bottom of the engine that was covered by the pan, this is the coolant drain plug; remove it with a container than can hold 5 gallons (yes, you read correctly), of liquid. Remove the coolant cap in the rear trunk to facilitate draining. When the coolant drain slows, pull off each of the large hoses just in front of the coolant plug, these will drain the radiators. When the coolant drain is complete, replace the drain plug with a new sealing ring (a few cents at the dealer) after putting a light coating of anti seize on the plug threads. Torque drain plug to 7-11 Lb Ft. Reattach coolant hoses. Replace belly pan. Couple of useful tricks: 1. As you are fully draining the system, this is an excellent time to replace the factory 185 degree thermostat with the LN Engineering 160 degree unit. We have had excellent results with this swap, lowering around town coolant temps by 15-18 degrees. 2. Get the “-03” version coolant cap and replace you current unit. For a few bucks, it prevents major headaches later. You need to open the engine bay, pull the air intake tube from the air filter box to the throttle body, and the cooler is exposed and ready to remove. Couple of tricks: 1. When the cooler is unbolted, do not move it, but lift it in a level position and slide a plastic bag under it to catch any residual oil and coolant still inside (there is a lot of both retained inside the unit and it will get all over if it drains while you are pulling it). 2. Wipe down the sealing area and always use four new (two sizes) o-rings. 3. If you are a 2.5/2.7 base engine, do not use the cooler for that engine, get the “S” model (996-107-025-57, about $200 from a good dealer). The “S” unit is more than twice the size of the base factory unit and will give you much better heat transfer. 4. Replace the Allen head fasteners and torque to 7 Lb Ft. 5. Replace the factory spring hose clamp on top of the cooler with a quality screw type. 6. On some models (but not all) there will be a close proximity between the new cooler and a hose; if you have that, just use a small section of split hose as a “sacrificial” wear protector. Again, not all models need this. 7. While you are in there, this is a great time to replace the air filter……. 8. Consider doing your poly rib belt as well at this time if it is anywhere near due, for $24, it is cheap insurance. Button everything back up; you often find the throttle body end of the air tube can be a ***** to reconnect, but it does go back on. Refill the cooling system using the factory coolant premixed 50/50 with distilled water (ONLY; again, for less than a buck a gallon, distilled water is cheap protection); again the Bentley has instructions for this if you do not have access to a vacuum fill system, but using the vacuum system makes the refill a 5 min. no-brainer, and even pretests the system for any potential leaks. Unfortunately, the Porsche OEM vacuum fill system sells for over $500; but the company that makes them for Porsche is in Canada and sells the same unit, but with adaptors to fit anything from a Porsche to a lawn tractor for less than $100; so it is a good “buddy group buy” if you don’t want to spring for one yourself, but they really are handy for anything with a cooling system……..
  15. I don't think it is the tires; I have two sets of them on other cars with no problems; tires handle well and are quiet. I'd look at the alignment (at a different shop) before I'd change the tires..............
  16. It means you seeing a very slight current draw when everything is swithced off. This is normal, it is casued by things like radio station pre-sets, the alarm system and a clock. Usually, the a current draw of less than 50-60 mA is considered normal, so your "everything off" current draw is fine. Suggest considering a battey maintainer for when the car is not in use. A lot of people get by without them, but they really do a great job of keeping the battery fully charged when the car is not in use, and significantly extend the battery's usefull life.....
  17. Yes, the UView system works very well; the only coolant we use is the OEM mixed 50/50 with distilled water........
  18. 1. Charge the battery fully and then have it load tested. If it fails the load test, you need a new battery. 2. If the battery passes, or after you install a new one, put a multimeter between the positive battery cable (removed from the battery) and the battery + terminal; read the current (amperage) draw. Should be low (in the mili amp range), if it is not, start pulling the fuses one at a time and watch for a current draw change; when that occurs, you have identified the circuit(s) that are causing the issue..............
  19. I put my car away around Nov. and it sits until March-April with the battery maintainer plugged into the cig lighter outlet. The car was designed to be stored this way, it will not cause any problems as long as the maintainter you use is a good one....
  20. In both cases what needs to be fixed or changed? This is where the PID scan comes in; it shows the "real time" output of the sensors, one of which is either uhappy or not responding. The scan will show which one(s) is(are) the issue............. The diagnostics Loren mentioned are also a good start, as the MIL signal itself could be the issue. No one ever said diagnostics where easy; but they can be fun.........
  21. Jake Raby and LN Engineering make a spin on oil filter adaptor that allow the addition of an air/oil cooler that is used in conjunction with the OEM water/oil unit. Suggest going to the "S" version of the OEM unit first; water/oil units have the advantage of warming up the oil under cold starts. If you are to add a second air/oil unit, you will also need to add a thermostatic valve in the air/oil system to limit oil movement to the cooler until it warms up.........
  22. We have. but it isn't a "common" occurance........ A cooling system pressure test usually catches it when it does happen.
  23. P0650 could be a couple of things: 1. Open circuit, or implausible signal 2. Exceeding mixture threshold (either over rich or over lean) Suggest a PID scan of sensors to see what they are reading................
  24. I have to say that I’m a bit apprehensive about finding oil that is separate from the coolant (e.g.: not a milky emulsion) in the coolant tank……… Normally, if there is a leak between the two systems, it shows up as a foamy emulsion, not just oil by itself. And as you have said you ran a pressure test, the correct diagnostic for such a situation, and not observed leakage, I would become even more circumspect that there is a real issue. Suggest the following: 1. Remove the oil from the coolant tank using a siphon. 2. Top off the coolant mix, adding a coolant UV dye indicator (available on line or at many full service auto parts outlets). 3. Top off the oil to the correct level. 4. Run the car for a few days, monitoring the oil and coolant to see if any emulsion starts to form or the oil returns. 5. If no emulsion (or oil) is seen after several days, check an oil sample from the dipstick under a UV light source, looking for the presence of the UV dye. 6. If after these steps, you see no emulsion or signs of the dye in the oil, assume that somehow, oil was added to the coolant tank by mistake…..
  25. What, exactly, is the physics of that? Why would fuel not intrude and not intrude and then all of the sudden start intruding into the oil, then magically stop again with the next oil change? The exact reason is not really fully known, but used oil testing shows that fuel intrusion seems to come and go, even on a single vehicle. Problem is that when it does happen, the oil's ability to lubricate and carry heat away suffers badly, usually without the driver knowing anything about it. There has been speculation that it could be caused by certain batches of fuel or atmospheric conditions; but to date there is not enough solid data to confirm (or eliminate) specific potential causes........
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