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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    You normally would need to obtain commerical battery acid, which is a soultion of around 30% H2SO4 in distilled water.
  2. JFP in PA
    More than likely, it was not stolen, but simply came loose and fell off without anyone noticing it was gone................
  3. JFP in PA
    For future reference, you may want to look at 3M automotive "Scotch Loks". They are gel filled, self stripping crimp connectors that are water proof and made for automotive applications. Come in a variety of sizes, we use them on (and under) cars all the time, never had one come back with a bad connection.
  4. JFP in PA
    E-scan is an interesting device, but unfortunately cost more than the Durametric Pro system, and has less diagnostics functions than the Durametric when connected to a Porsche (at least the last time I looked at it).
  5. JFP in PA
    A leak down test will often catch very small leaks caused by minute head or block cracks as well as head gasket failures that get missed or classified as cylinder to cylinder variations in a compression test routine. Yes it costs more, but it gives more definitive information.
  6. JFP in PA
    Kind of thought that would be the situation; in any case, it still is not that bad a project.
  7. JFP in PA
    Looks like it. Be sure to flush with lots of clear water before refilling.
  8. JFP in PA
    The only way to know what you are dealing with is to check the engine out (run a leak down test, pressure test the cooling system, pull the oil filter and cut it open, drop the sump cover, etc.). These engines do not like being hot, tend to start cracking heads, and the early blocks had other issues as well.
  9. JFP in PA
    Pulling the pump and putting it back is often false economy; considering the effort and parts costs involved, and the fact these pump go south without much warning, it simply does not make sense. That is also why we never reuse coolant, even when it looks good. Do it right and you generally only do it once……….
  10. JFP in PA
    Any debris in the coolant is reason for some concern; contamination can lead to a premature death of the coolant. Normally, there should be no sealant or other crud in the system as none is used in the original assembly, or should be used if the thermostat or pump is changed out. One potential source for black flakes in the system is from the pump itself, which uses a black plastic impeller that is well known for breaking up in use. Impeller failure has led to other issues as the debris can block water passages and cause hot spots to form, which can lead to issues like cracked cylinder heads. If you want to flush it, Prestone makes a flush that works well in getting out crud like intermix residues. As for the pressure on the Airlift unit, use 90 PSIG per the manufacturer's instructions. As there are no seals in the Uview unit, pressure will not harm it; and the unit will get to full vacuum quicker. As for draining the system; if you have removed the drain plug and pulled the hoses, and then allowed the system to drain, you should not get anything more by evacuating the system as pulling a vacuum does not move the liquid, only the air. As for measuring the electrical properties of the coolant mix, we have never done that, preferring to test it for visual clarity, pH and freeze levels, which have always been dependable indicators of its condition.
  11. JFP in PA
    OEM Litronics installations have two features that cannot be retrofitted, even using the OEM “kit”. The factory units have sensors on the chassis that adjust the lights angle to prevent glare to oncoming drivers (such as when cresting a hill), and the factory units are capable of being fault scanned by a PST II or PIWIS.
  12. JFP in PA
    You do come up with interesting problems…………… As I believe your car is a 2003, I think the news is bad: The ABS wiring circuit diagram does not show any disconnects other than the ones near the actual wheel speed sensors. Some of the earlier years had a disconnect just inside the trunk area, but that seems to have disappeared in the later models like yours. You may want to do some exploring, as I have found the connection locations in these diagrams to not always be completely accurate. In any case, the wiring is nothing special, so you can do some splicing to get back on the road.
  13. JFP in PA
    Not sure the later airbag is compatible with the earlier system.
  14. JFP in PA
    I have to agree with Loren on this; and because it gets into a questionable definition of "better". In general, just about any new plug is going to be "better" than one with a lot of miles on it, simply because it is new (after all, these are consumable items) . I believe if you dyno tested several brands of new plugs of the same heat range; any differences would be more experimental error rather than actual gains. The more appropriate question is which plug is doing "better" after a ton of miles, and this is where the incredible toughness of Iridium comes in. After 30-40 thousand miles, the Iridium plugs still look like new with no real change in the electrode gaps or condition, while the OEM plugs tend to show more electrode wear. On a Boxster or Cayman, plug changes are relatively straight forward affairs as nothing is in the way; on a 996/997/Turbo they tend to be a bit more difficult due to exhaust system packaging and the like. Longer lived, or longer performing plugs have an obvious advantage is these installations. To me, that is where the "better" term actually resides………..
  15. JFP in PA
    Fortunately, the tensioner is pretty sturdy and does not crap out very often; usually, if it has to be accessed, it is because someone screwed up the tensioner pulley mounting bolt, requiring the replacement of the arm. Then the fun begins…….. I also would not go the recommended distance on the serpentine belt; it is a relatively inexpensive item, but can leave you stranded on the side of the road, if not the new owner of a boat anchor where your engine used to sit. I would also recommend keeping the old belt in the car as an emergency spare due to the fact that many shops do not carry belts in the same size.
  16. JFP in PA
    If you need to replace the tensioner itself (#2 in the PDF), you are in for a fun project as everything short of the kitchen sink is in the way....................
  17. JFP in PA
    I would say "yes", although I'm sure others would disagree. Iridium is the hardest material with high current conductance properties available in spark plug at this time, so it should last the longest. We have used both NGK and Denso's in both normally aspirated and turbo cars, and while both worked well, I think the Denso's are a bit better.
  18. JFP in PA
    Gotta ask: Are you sure your DME and the engine are compatible? The later engines use a somewhat different VarioCam system and the DME's for one are not directly compatible with the other.................you note is was "reprogrammed", but are you sure it is correct?
  19. JFP in PA
    Check the coil pack connectors and possibly the coil pack themselves on Cylnders 4-5-6. Because you have spun this engine over with the cam that far out, I would also first run a leak down test on all cylinders, you may have some bent valves............ And never start one of these without oil in it.
  20. JFP in PA
    I've read that the unit is actually VW/Audi (and marked with a VW part #), so I'd also check with a friendly VW parts guy as well.......
  21. JFP in PA
    I do not believe it is related to the Techron; we have used Techron in a lot of cars for a lot of years and never had any negative issues.
  22. JFP in PA
    Depends upon what the problem is; the IMS can be changed with the engine in the car, as can a valve spring, although changing springs can be a bit time consuming.
  23. JFP in PA
    Obviously, it is hard to diagnose these issues “long distance”, but if you are indicating that the metal “flakes” can be picked up by a magnet, you have a serious issue that is not going to get better on its own. Without seeing the metal close up, I would have to say that it is probably from one of a couple of potential sources: (1) The IMS bearing. When these unit crap out, they tend to shed a lot of ferrous metal, usually as a granular material, but sometimes as flakes. If it is, you need to stop running the engine immediately as failure of the bearing will total your engine. (2) Something in the valve train such as a failing spring (not uncommon) or something in the VarioCam system. The non metal bits can be the cam tensioning “paddle” wear covers coming apart, but they can also be the IMS bearing seals breaking up as the bearing starts to wobble. You need to get the car to someone that knows these engines well, and I would suggest not driving it there.
  24. JFP in PA
    Put a magnet near them, if it picks them up, you may have a potential issue...........
  25. JFP in PA
    Very simple: The dual mass flywheel is the only torsional and harmonic dampening device on these engines; its removal can (and has) led to failures in the rotating assembly, notably crankshaft cracking and complete failures. Several of the premier Porsche engine builders will only use lightweight single mass flywheels if the entire rotating assembly (including the flywheel itself, as several have been found to be out of balance to start with) is being subjected to a full harmonic balancing prior to engine assembly. Some people will say that "they have used one with no problems"; but repeated failures indicate that they may have just been lucky. Unless you are going to balance the assembly, I'd skip the single mass lightweight unit………….
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