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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. They are small but not tiny: Most of the time, with care, they can be reused as they are actually just crimped on. Reattaching the wire by soldering is a good idea, just be careful about making the connector too big to fit in its opening.
  2. The small connectors inside the pug have a small "tang" that sticks up and locks them in place, these tools allow you to slide in the tool, depress the tang, and remove the terminal and its wire without damage. Still more evidence that "there is a tool for absolutely everything............." 😀
  3. You need what is called a "pin removal tool" set from someone like SIR Tools. These will allow you to remove the terminal without damaging it, reset the wire and reinstall it. Other tool companies like OTC make them as well.
  4. It may help if your disconnect the harness from all the injectors to get more room to work. DO NOT TAPE IT BACK TOGETHER! If the wire is damaged, you need to open up the damaged area, even cutting the wire although it is still intact, and sliding on a heat shrink tube before soldering the wire back together. Then you can slide the heat shrink tube over the joint, shrink it, and you have a fully insulated, water proof repair that will out live the car. Fix it right, fix it once................
  5. Welcome to RennTech B6 is for the power top, turn signals, and power windows.
  6. That would be my next stop after checking the cables. High cable resistance due to internal corrosion is common on these cars, which is why I would start there.........
  7. Welcome to RennTech Your problems sound electrical; battery or battery cable related. Check your primary battery cables for voltage drop, you should not see more than 0.5VDC drop across any primary cable. If yours are higher, you need to replace them.
  8. 14x1.5MM, passenger's side cam cover area.
  9. If the air fuel ratio was corrected, yes, these would clear themselves.
  10. He just might surprise you next time around..................
  11. Almost; in your state, the use of aftermarket "universal" cats will fail your inspection program, they have to be factory. The sensors will work fine, but the use of aftermarket emissions component's is a no-no.
  12. Depends upon which faults, but yes, the DME can clear codes all by itself after a repair.
  13. Pedro overcharges for a kit you can make up yourself for a lot less. You do not need a permanent oil pressure installation, most decent shops have a test gauge for just this purpose;
  14. Not really, as long as the cat is doing its job, it should make no difference.
  15. What is your oil pressures doing during the cold start, hot idle, etc.? There was a notice about excessively low oil pressure at low RPM's, along with a simple fix kit (new oil pump spring and piston).
  16. The quickest, and probably easiest as well, method to disable the system entirely is to disconnect and plug the vacuum lines running to the vacuum chambers on each side of the PSE under the car. Vacuum is used to close the valves, making the system quiet, unplugged, it will be forever in the loud mode. Enjoy 🙂
  17. Actually, it was the Swiss market that led to this. Factory installed PSE will automatically go to the quiet mode between certain KPH vehicle speeds to spare the neighbors ears. Normal behavior unless you defeat the control system.
  18. Porsche sells an very well made cover for the car.
  19. Not at all strange or unusual. “Fecal matter occurs” and all that.
  20. P1229 is a shorted injector on cylinder 5.
  21. You need to find out if the injector on that cylinder is stuck open, probably the easiest way it to monitor the engine off fuel pressure to see if it drops off due to leakage. You need to address this quickly as the unburnt fuel will wash the oil off that cylinder wall and lead to scoring. Once you fix it, change your oil and filter as the oil will most likely have a lot of fuel in it. Good luck!
  22. Your engine off fuel pressure is out of spec low (3.3 bar, spec is 3.8+/- 0.2, so the low limit is 3.6 bar). You may have a regulator issue as the running pressure is also at the lower limits.
  23. P1123 ands 1125 are bank codes for an overly rich condition, common issues are leaking injectors and fuel pressure is too high. Diagnostics start with test fuel pressure (engine off: 3.8 bar +/- 0.2 bar; engine idling: 3.3 bar +/- 0.2 bar). A vacuum leak on the line going to the fuel pressure regulator would also create problems, a vacuum gauge on that line should read 0.4-0.6 Bar.
  24. Every part in the HVAC system is available separately:
  25. You could have a bad lifter, which is not uncommon. The design of these lifters require very clean oil as they are a "dead end" design, meaning that there is a passage in, but no passage out for the oil. Dirt or debris can get trapped, causing the lifter to stick and make noise. A cleaner added to your oil may clear it, but that also tends to free up other debris in the engine and end up buggering other lifters. If it is a bad lifter(s), this is not really a DIY job as the cam covers have to come off, along with the cams, to access them. This requires special fixtures and knowledge of cam allocation procedures.
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