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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. There is no way of knowing what it is actually for without at least seeing it. Even then, we may never know. How did you end up going this route when an OEM replacement retails for the shipping cost you mentioned?
  2. It does on some cars, but not all. Also not sure if this function is limited to Pro version; would need to check with Durametric to be sure.
  3. Welcome to aftermarket body panels........... :eek:
  4. You should have the dealer check your VIN to see if that recall applies to your car. It may not.
  5. The system is never going to be happy with a seat belt fault, so that problem needs to be addressed and corrected first. Yes, the system needs to be coded to the car, your Durametric should be capable of this on a 997.
  6. Oil looks clean, but you definitely had a coolant intermix, and you still don't know the source of the metal in the oil filter. You are not out of the woods just yet...........
  7. That definitely is a classic intermix. Any photo's of the drained oil?
  8. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: You will find that those are single use barbed fittings which you can only source from Porsche as a rail assembly, or off a wreck. A new one retails at around $390.
  9. Check your crank position sensor. They are well known for acting up when warm and not letting the car start, but not throwing any codes.
  10. Are the gauges you have 134A or are they set up for R12? You will need access to the factory service manual for the system in order to look up the correct pressure/ambient temperature relationships and reset the pressure correctly. If the system is already overfilled, you will need access to a certified gas recovery system to remove the excess gas to get down to the correct levels. The Durametric system is capable of reading and diagnosing AC systems, but the level varies by model and year somewhat.
  11. First of all, simply adding gas to a system without knowing what pressures it is already at (particularly the high side in relation to the ambient air temps)is asking for a disaster. There are ways to test these systems to determine if the current gas charge is correct or not. You may have already over charged the system which could cause it to go into very expensive and potentially dangerous component failure. Separately, your multi zone control system may be stuck or malfunctioning, which could be the basis of your original issue. If you do not understand these systems, or lack the diagnostic equipment to work on them, take the car to a pro who does, before you make a bad situation worse.
  12. In the UK: http://www.wrightune.co.uk/imsguardian.html North America: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/ln-engineering-oil-contamination-warning-ims-guardian-sr.-p4034453786lne/10814439-P
  13. Because of the amount of plastics used in the head light assembly, each bulb has to have a clean path to a chassis ground. I would to continuity and resistance test between the ground leg of the bulb socket in question and a solid chassis ground. You should see no resistance and continuity with a multimeter.
  14. I would check for any corrosion in the bulb socket, and also check the ground for the light. For an electrical diagram, you will need the Bentley manual.
  15. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Something is not right in the reassembly; the rack should not behave as you describe it. It should feel slightly tighter than when you started, but not so tight it does not try to self center coming off a corner.
  16. I do not see this listed, are you saying this is in the manual that came with the Cayenne? Mine says to just check it every 40k. If it needs replaced at 60k then I am at my mileage limit, yet the belt literally looks brand new with no signs of wear, cracking or hazing. And it probably will continue to look "brand new", right up until it leaves you stranded at midnight in the rain. Change it, they are not that expensive.
  17. Weird, P0102 indicates that the MAF sensor is flowing below limits, which is usually either a bad MAF or a wiring issue. P1340 indicates that your timing chain is out of position on bank 1. All of the rest of the codes say all the bank 1 cylinders are misfiring. I would start by doing a complete recheck of the wiring harness connections on bank 1. Doing the plugs, you may have knocked a connector loose.
  18. I think you may have the wrong fluid. The spec for the car is Esso ATF LT71141 or equivalent only and I don't see ZF Lifeguard 6 meeting that spec. Check the containers you got it in, but I think that may be at least part of your issue. EDIT: OK, I've now read further on ZF fluids, and ZF Lifeguard 6 is not the correct fluid for your car. Problem is that you are now going to have to do multiple drain, fill, run, drain agin cycles to get all of it out of the car (gravity drains only get about 40% of the fluid out). Good luck.
  19. Pulling the engine is not at all difficult, depending upon how you are equipped and your level of mechanical expertise. It drops out the bottom of the car.
  20. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: What ever it is, with knocking sounds, it is not good. I would not be running the car, but I would be scanning it to see what pending codes are stored. If you just did the plugs and coils, you may have reversed one or more of the coil connections and it is firing out of sequence.
  21. If you have metal shavings in the oil, the codes don't really matter; the critical issue is where are the shavings and noise are coming from. I would stop running the car immediately, check the shavings you have to see if they are ferrous; I would also pull the engine; something is not good and is not going to get better.
  22. It would help to have the year and model of the car in question. Are you absolutely sure the fluid is the correct one for the transmission?
  23. Thats cool, Ill make a site donation instead. Im not ready to go that far, but thanks for the optimism :D And thank you for your continued support of RennTech :thumbup:
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