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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Actually, Porsche uses a bridge bar above the engine to slightly lift and support it until a cradle that bolts to the engine is attached from below to lower the engine out of the car; Use of a jack is an aftermarket adaptation to circumvent spending the money for the specialized tools. That said, I see no reason you cannot swap out the housing without pulling the engine, but you are going to have to remove some stuff and support the engine from above to get at it: As mentioned above, this is also an excellent time to carefully check out the oil pump for signs of wear, replace it if necessary, add the chrome molly replacement pump drive from LN (the OEM drive is a known weak point and is an engine killer when it fails, so the $20 or so for the bullet proof replacement is cheap insurance). As the cooling system is open, this is also an excellent time for the LN 160F stat and a new water pump as you are already in there.
  2. JFP in PA
    First of all, anyone that uses a hollow alloy water jacket casting as a jacking or lifting point is clearly out of their mind, they crack very easily. Secondly, in order to get a good weld bead (Mig or Tig) on this alloy part, it needs to be immaculately clean and dry, which means taking it out of the car to be prepped. At that point, it would probably be cheaper as well as a better idea to just toss it an install a new housing.
  3. JFP in PA
    Anytime...................
  4. JFP in PA
    Yes, it should be pink/orange in color; in about 2002-2003, Porsche reformulated their coolant and the color changed from green to the pink/orange version. Both types are fully compatible with each other and can be mixed without issue.
  5. JFP in PA
    Only if there is a problem with the existing coolant (e.g.: wrong coolant added, coolant contaminated, very dirty, etc.), otherwise dump the system (you will only get around 90-95% of it out without taking most of the car apart, so don't be overly concerned about how much drains), then refill (highly recommend doing so under vacuum) with premixed Porsche coolant and distilled water (very important) at a 50/50 ratio. You will be good to go for a long time.
  6. JFP in PA
    From what I understand, the low voltage of the 9V will barely illuminate the lights. The trick here is to not take all day changing the battery, which should allow the 9V to hold the settings without crapping out in the process. I know the maintainer keep them illuminated, but it has a lot more voltage available.
  7. JFP in PA
    I would not be hooking a high amperage battery to do this, beside being dangerous, it is totally unnecessary. There are cheap aftermarket "dongles" that plug into the lighter socket and will maintain the settings using a common 9V household battery (low amperage) that sell for less than $10. Some of the better battery maintainers, notably Ctek, have a setting to do the same thing using the maintainer.
  8. JFP in PA
    If all you are going to do is change the level sensor, no, you do not need to drain it..............
  9. JFP in PA
    Depending upon your year and model, you may not have to drain anything to change the level sensor (it is on the outside of the tank, yellow arrow):
  10. JFP in PA
    +1 Always good advice..............
  11. JFP in PA
    The Denso IK20 is correct, as is the Bosch part number.
  12. JFP in PA
    Good catch, I was thinking of the Boxster engine which changed later........................... :eek:
  13. JFP in PA
    Sounds like you are fine. A normal AOS gives you a vacuum level of about 5 inches of water, basically the slight suction you felt. When they fail, the vacuum level jumps to several times that level, making the cap nearly impossible to get off.
  14. JFP in PA
    #1. Beru and Bosch are pretty much the default OEM style plugs. That said, we have used (with great success) NGK and Denso Iridiums. #2 Only replace the tubes is they are cracked and/or leaking. #3 Inpsect the coils for signs of cracking or other issues, but do not replace them unless they need to be changed out. #4 Always a "hot button" item; yes, use anti seize, but do so sparingly. We use anti seize on any dissimilar metal threaded fasteners that do not require thread locking compounds in these cars. Porsche used to recomend against anti seized because the types used in Europe caused increased electrical resistance, the the metalic paste types used here are conductive.
  15. JFP in PA
    Anytime; glad you got back to it.
  16. JFP in PA
    The Durametric is not going to provide definitive data indicating that the AOS is on the way out; you best bet is to try and remove the oil filler cap while idling. If the cap comes off with little effort, the AOS is fine; but if it takes a lot of force to remove it due to high case vacuum, the AOS is toast.
  17. JFP in PA
    You will be pleased with the Durametric system; but as a word of caution, it is incredibly complex and the ops manual is very basic, so you will need to spend some time playing with it to really appreciate everything it is capable of. There are also a lot of users here and on other forums that may be able to help you if you encounter any problems or questions.
  18. JFP in PA
    Yes, the Durametric can put the lights through their movement paces, but it can also read the DME stored codes resulting from problems on factory installed Lits.
  19. JFP in PA
    The Durametric system is an excellent Porsche specific diagnostics tool. You can ususally find a used one with one or more VIN's still left open at reasonable prices. One thing to be aware of, there are some notable differences between the "Pro" and "Enthusiast" versions of the software (you can find more info on the differences on their website) other than the fact that the Pro system can be used on as many cars as you want.
  20. JFP in PA
    We like to buff the surfaces of both mating areas with a Scotch Brite pad to make sure they are both clean and without any burrs. You may want to also check each mating surface with a good straight edge while they are apart. To date, with proper cleaning, buffing and a new metal gasket, and properly torqued, we have not had to use any sealant on these surfaces, which is as it should be
  21. JFP in PA
    Actually, the diagnostics tell you quite a bit, and much more than "something is wrong". They also can pin point specific issues (e.g.: control module, suspension sensors, etc.), as well as listing multiple issues when they occur. Unfortunately, too many people do not understand what the diagnostic tool is telling you, so they go off in a completely wrong direction rather than trying to learn from what the data is telling them. So those questionable "couple hundred dollars" save customers hours of otherwise wasted billable time when sorting out a problem car as it provides the best troubleshooting info available, especially in the case of multiple faults. In your case, it would have immediately spotted that something was unplugged.
  22. JFP in PA
    First of all, factory installed Lits have a neat diagnostics function that allows a good diagnostics tool like the PIWIS or Durametric software can not only read problems, but can "exercise" the lights so that you can evaluate their functions. While it sounds like you may have one lamp assembly off its gimble point (which is why the tool does not fit correctly), I would be looking at seeing what is wrong and/or reseating the lamp before playing with adjustments.
  23. JFP in PA
    Please do not "double post", it is unnecessary and violates board rules.
  24. JFP in PA
    Inhaling a large amount of oil will make any car run rough for a period of time, that is nothing unusual. But inhaling the oil should have no effect on the sensors or codes you are seeing now, they are an unrelated and separate issue. And as the MAF is upstream from where the AOS would dump oil into your intake, it also should not be involved, although it may still be dirty from just accumulated miles. One point on having the crank sensor, or most any other sensor as well, checked out by either a competent independent shop or the dealer is that the diagnostics tools they have should be able to evaluate the existing sensor before it is changed. We are advocates for diagnostics ahead of parts changing, something far too many tend to do in reverse, which often leads to spending a lot of money to fix what should have been a simpler and cheaper fix.
  25. JFP in PA
    Porsche is pretty specific on what lubricants are supposed to be used exclusively in the Tiptronic and manual gear boxes, regardless of what you read on the internet; straying from the recommendations typically leads to some serious issues. I would start by dumping, and flushing the system (remember, the converter holds a large part of the fluid and does not drain munch by gravity) to get as much of the old fluid out as possible.
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