JFP in PA

The AOS is much easier with the car apart, only takes a couple min. to do.

Only one problem with that statement, Ross-Tech's VCDS cannot activate or even access many fucntions on a Porsche that the Durametric system can; in fact, from Ross-Tech's own website: Porsche: Although Porsche SE and Volkswagen AG have takensteps to merge, Porsche still does diagnostics quite differently than VW so VCDSdoes not do OEM diagnostics on most Porsche systems. However, we've heard goodthings about Durametric's Diagnostic Tool for Porsche.

I think you need to understand the process a bit more, and we would need to know a bit more about where you are and what you are trying to accomplish. First of all, why do you want to get rid of the cats? If you are just adding headers, you should also recognize that the potential for increased power output via this route is rather limited without going the full "ten-tenths" in retuning the engine, including a DME re-flash with one of the aftermarket programs on one of these engines. As the US versions of the 986 use four O2 sensors (two per bank), while the "ROW" (rest of the world) use only two (one per side), it is possible (using a PSTII or PIWIS) to re-flash the DME to ROW status if you remove one of the sensors from each side to prevent throwing related codes. But in the process, you defeat the DME's ability to alter the fuel trims accurately, which leads to higher levels of pollution. In some states, visual inspection of the emissions systems is part of the annual inspection process, with the cat and O2 sensor missing, which could lead to some major problems. In some states, they still plug the "sniffer" in the tail pipe to test the cars rather than run the OBD II based I/M readiness test; a car with a revamped DME program and missing cats could have problems there as well. Several header manufacturers also produce good quality headers with the cats and the O2 sensor bungs, so they would be a bolt in swap without all the other associated downsides. And as aftermarket headers add little in the way of absolute performance, you would not be giving up much by having headers with cats.

You should be fine with 3 gallons of coolant and 3 of distilled water. Pre mix them outside the car, and if you have access to one, use a vacuum fill unit.

Year and model? In general, the cars hold about 6 gallons of coolant mix total, but it varies by year and model configurations,

You probably have over filled it, but it is easy to adjust, get the trans up to temp and remove the over flow plug and it will correct itself.

You need to be extremely careful with the cooling systems on these cars; the M96/97’s do not take well to being overheated. Neither photo show any signs of an intermix issue; if you had one, the oil and/or coolant would look more like hot chocolate, and they do not. That said, the “-01” cap is a suspect. If the car were in my shop, I would pressure test both the cap (to see what pressure it opens at), and the cooling system to see if there are any leaks. If the cap and cooling system checked out OK, I would then pull the plugs, looking at each for signs of “steam cleaning” that would be evidence of either a head gasket (not common) or cylinder head cracking (more common). I would also run a leak down test on each cylinder, and possibly bore scope them as well looking for the same signs. Assuming that the inspections found nothing obvious, I would replace the cap, drain the entire cooling system, mix fresh coolant with distilled water and refill the system under vacuum.

The Durametric system is not perfect, but it still remains the best non-PIWIS system out there. I think of it best described as “a work in progress”, as they seem to be open to comments and suggestions on how to improve the system.

Glad to be of help; next time I'm south of London on the M25 ring road, I'll take you up on that pint.................. :cheers:

True enough, but it can also be done with a simple multimeter if one does not have access to one of those; if memory serves, I think the voltages on a good sensor are 450mV between pins 3 and 4, and 720mV between pin 3 and ground.

The sensors can be tested individually as they are simple electrical devices that operate is certain voltage ranges. As the code indicates that the timing of the signal between the two sensors on that bank are out of range, it could be only one, or it could be both (most of the time, it is the one after the cat). Usually we test both sensors to see which is not up to snuff as these things are not cheap. Unfortunately, I am away from my shop at the moment, so I do not have the testing voltages at hand, perhaps Loren may have access to them.

Not surprising, the O2 sensors have been updated more than once, so they often have new part numbers. Check with a dealer like Sunset to get the latest number.

I would go back to whoever did the PPI and ask to have it run, at worst they should only charge a couple of bucks as it takes about 5 min. to run; they might even be embarassed into not charging for something they should have done in the first place. I would also have the oil filter pulled and cut open as well. When you get the point of running a PPI, the buyer is obviously serious about the car, getting all the information is really your last chance to make and informed decision before a lot of money changes hands and there is no going back..........

You can clean the electrical connections with any commerical electical connector cleaning spray from someone like CRC, you could also use their MAF sensor cleaner as well. The O2 sensor is not that hard to get at, but it is in a bit of a confined space so don't rush it. Put a dab of antiseize on the threads of the new one, and make sure it is properly tightened (they are known to come loose). A decent O2 sensor wrench is also a good investment.

These cars have a TSB out on them concerning high resistance battery cables (loose cable ends, often with corrosion as well). Checking the cables is easy using a multimeter, they should have no resistance. If the cables are bad, they can be changed as a DIY project, but it will take some time as some things need to be removed to get at them.

The water pumps in these cars use a composite impeller, which eventually begins to break up. When this happens, small particles can get jammed in small water passages, particularly inside the cylinder heads, causing hot spots and potentiallycracks. Aftermarket pumps with metal impellers are not a solution as when they age and begin to wobble, as all water pumps do, the metal impellers tear up the engine case. So the water pump on the M96/97 had gone from being a “repair item” (replace it when it breaks), to a “maintenance item” (replace it before it fails). Based upon your mileage, you are in the window to put a new one in. This will also give you the opportunity to replace both your coolant mix with fresh, and consider upgrading to a 160F thermostat at the same time (an excellent mod for these engines that run entirely too hot).

I doubt they are related, but there is always that chance. Usually, when the fuel gauge starts fluctuating, with the low fuel light coming on, it is either a wiring issue with the fuel sender unit, or the sender unit itself. The sender can be tested with a multimeter, but the procedure is a bit messy asaccess to it is under the car's battery tray, so it becomes difficult to set this up as a "road test". As I mentioned earlier, this seems to be a favorite spot for rodent damage (chewed wiring). One thing you may want to try before check the fuel wiring is to wiggle the ignition key when the fault appears, sometimes these issues are related to the start of a failing ignition switch.

In general, the 997's were pretty good cars. Once point to consider is that all the 997's carry the OEM "final solution" IMS bearing that cannot be changed out without totally disassembling the engine, making an upgrade a veryexpensive proposition. And while this design bearing has had the fewest reported IMS bearing failures, the do still fail. A cam deviation values test should be standard on any full blown PPI; I am surprised it was not done with yours as it only requires a few key strokes to obtain while connected to the computer. The PPI should have also included anexamination of the oil filter for any collected debris as well. If you do purchase the car, the leaking IMS cover (or RMS) will need to be addressed before it becomes serious enough to lead to clutch damage. This cost obviously needs to be factored into the purchase price. Whilethat is being done, they can remove the rear seal on the OEM IMS bearing to allow engine oil to splash lubricate it, check the flywheel for twist and replace the clutch if required.

If you replace the module, it will require programing with either a PST II or a PIWIS unit to accept your keys and be functional. If you go flea bay, be careful about how many of the "slots" (there are usually four) in the module have already been programed. Once they are all used, it is difficult to reprogram the unit. It sounds like you definitely have an electrical “gremlin” in your system, which is causing the lights to remain on in the dash. This should also be addressed as it may relate to the issue with the central locking system as well. Quite often, we see strange electrical faults caused by failing ignition switches. What happens is the electrical section of the switch starts to die and things start not working or refusing to shut off. Fortunately, the fix is a quick and cheap one as the electrical section of the ignition is a $10 item here (Audi uses the same switch) and can be changed out quickly with a small screwdriver (it simply unplugs from the back of the ignition’s mechanical section). This problem is so common that carry we replacements in stock at all times. There have been a couple of detailed DIY procedures done on this, so you may want to do a quick search.

OK, let's start with the basics, this is a 986 Boxster, correct? Which year? Please explain your "frame replacement" comment. Thanks.

Several possibilities; is anything else acting up? Reason I ask is it could be a wiring issue (often rodent related damage), a bad sensor in the tank, a weak battery, or a bad ignition switch……….

Retrofitting the lights is not that big an issue, but retrofitting the self-leveling feature is a bit of a nightmare, as it requires both sensors at the front and rear suspension, a wiring harness that runs the length of the car, and getting the DME to accept its existence. Not for the faint of heart or pocketbook….

One way to "speed up" the drying process is to remove the unit's cover and rinse it out with dry alcohol (medicinal rather than consumption type), then let it air out. Castletown Pale Ale, please.............. :cheers:

This is a common problem with cars the get water under the seats. Under the seat is the electronic control module for the central locking system, which shorts out when it gets wet. Fortunately, it can be removed, opened up and dried out, sometimes requiring a new fuse that is in the module itself. Once dry and reinstalled, they typically go back to working fine. Do a search on this topic, it has been covered extensively with pictures more than once.

As just about everything else is different about the Metzger designed Tubo engine, I am not surprised these bolts are as well. There is realtively few parts that cross over between the the turbo and the M96/97 engines. You should also consider the possiblity of using a thread insert (HeliCoil and Time-Sert both come to mind) to repair the head in place.