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DBJoe996

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Everything posted by DBJoe996

  1. DBJoe996
    I learned something new the other day. The standard stock 996 and the Turbo differ in the clutch slave cylinder setup. Turns out that the turbo has a low pressure feed from the clutch/brake master cylinder, and a high pressure feed from the power steering pump, and both systems use Pentosin fluid. They both work to operate the clutch slave cylinder. So it is possible that since the power steering pump plays a role in your Turbo and could be leading to a noise related to clutch operation. As well, there could be a leak from the high pressure side of the clutch slave cylinder to the low pressure side, thereby resulting in overfill of the frunk reservoir. Just a thought.
  2. DBJoe996
    When the parking brake is on, does the light on the gauge cluster come on? It should. Two things come to mind, the cluster bulb and the switch on the parking brake not engaging properly.
  3. DBJoe996
    Any debris in the oil pickup tube screen? Any debris in the oil pan? The only other thing that I can think of is the oil pump...maybe it is worn out. I do hope that after re-installing the oil pan you will put in fresh oil and a new filter. BTW, the OE canister cartridge type oil filter has a bypass valve in the bottom and the spring wears out. Much better to get the LN oil filter adapter and use a non-bypass spin-on oil filter.
  4. DBJoe996
    Not exactly. I still have a slight bit of bleed to the defroster whatever vent selection I make. I usually just select the dash vents only. I live in Florida and the humidity is high, so I run the AC all the time. A little bit of cold air comes out the defroster and on high humidity days, when I have the temp setting at or below the outside air temp, a slight bit of humidity condenses on the outside of the windshield. Either a quick wipe with the wipers or setting the HVAC temp at or just below the outside temp makes it go away. I live with and have just settled my mind as just a quark of the system....because...I'm not going to pull the whole dash apart to get to the HVAC box to fix some stupid foam covered blend door. The foam does stop coming out, and then you just live with it. I can adjust things myself to manage it. BTW - the blend doors are probably 40-50% solid metal, with some holes in the door. That is what the foam covers. Once it deteriorates, the holes are open to air flow, and that is why you get some bleed to the defroster vent. Another repair write-up -
  5. DBJoe996
    The simple answer is yes. The foam has deteriorated on the blend door inside the HVAC box. There is no easy fix. To get to the blend doors inside the box, you have to remove the entire dash. I have just learned to live with it for 10 years. Once the foam stops spewing out the vents, everything works well for heat/air. So I just let it be.
  6. DBJoe996
    Disconnecting the battery also will reset the DME to base values, so it has to "learn" all over again. A gentle drive should clear that up.
  7. DBJoe996
  8. DBJoe996
    Same sad story over on Rennlist. Guy had his one and only Porsche key stolen from his other car. Ordered new key blades through Porsche with the VIN number. Got new key fobs and tried to have the Porsche dealer program the keys to the car's security system. Could not add the keys to the security system, and could not remove programmed keys from the security system because they did not have the original key and key code. Bottom line - new security module for $1900, plus new key fobs, plus programming. Porsche was certainly good at setting up a secure security system for our cars. So word of advice - always have two working keys that are programmed to the security system. If you only have one working key, and you lose it or it gets stolen, that's a +$2500 mistake. Better to spend $350-400 for a new working key.
  9. DBJoe996
    You can also try your local PCA Chapter to see if a member has Durametric and would let you use it to evaluate your running parameters. 34K is pretty low mileage for an O2 sensor to go bad, but stuff happens. Having an OBDII reader is worth its price. Durametric is the best. i don't know if a standard OBDII reader will tell you which one is acting up...probably just give you a P code for O2 sensors. Remember that the DME is using things like the O2 sensors to determine how the engine is running, and then it makes adjustments on the fly. The misfires are probably a result of one (or more) of the O2 sensors acting up. Tackle it first.
  10. DBJoe996
    A bad O2 sensor will do that. How many miles on the car? There are four O2 sensors, two pre-cat and two post-cat. If you have access to Durametric, it will tell you which one is not sensing correctly. Have you checked the harness connectors on the tray in the engine bay? Maybe one got knocked loose.
  11. DBJoe996
    Agree...a trip to a Porsche dealer is necessary. Besides cutting the laser cut key, the key has an RFID pill that needs to be programmed to the security system of the car, and to the best of my knowledge only a Porsche dealer can get the security code from Stuttgart. Good idea to have a second key. It will be expensive but in the end worth it.
  12. DBJoe996
    You need Parts 4, 5, 23 and 24 here (these will be the upgraded parts) - http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=104-00
  13. DBJoe996
    Did not look at the video, but, I would start by making sure the oil is fresh and within spec, with a new filter, and replace the oil pressure relief valve and spring with the updated version. It is a simple job. Since you checked the oil pressure with an separate gauge, not likely the oil pressure sending unit.
  14. DBJoe996
    I find that hard to believe as well. The reason I said "take it to the service department" is that what you want to do is get those removed. Service techs keep their tools for a lifetime, so someone in the service department probably has the right "old" key to remove those wheel locks. If that is not the case at the dealer you tried, I would try a different one. Once removed, you can always buy a new locking set if you desire. Good luck.
  15. DBJoe996
    Take it to the service department of the nearest Porsche dealer. They have a variety of lock keys to try on it. If you don't live or park in a ghetto or 3rd world country, ditch the lock nuts...and if you stay with them, put the lock socket inside the car, not in the trunk. So many people have been locked out of their cars due to dead batteries, and trying to remove the wheel liner to get to the emergency release cable for the frunk is nearly impossible with the wheel on the car and the lock socket stuck in the locked frunk. If all else fails, find an appropriate size (15mm?) 12 point socket and hammer it on there. That will ruin both so be prepared to repeat for the other wheels.
  16. DBJoe996
    Take a turkey baster and suck some of the brake/clutch fluid out of the reservoir to return it to a normal level....then keep an eye on it. Agree with Loren completely. If the power steering pump is making a rattle noise, remove the serpentine belt and check the pulley for play and smoothness. Check all the other pulleys as well, including the water pump. Good time to put on a new serpentine belt and replace the air filter.
  17. DBJoe996
    Hope it is not this -
  18. DBJoe996
    Diagram and part numbers http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=105-05
  19. DBJoe996
    Are you sure the brake pads were installed in the right direction? They might be in there the wrong way around.
  20. DBJoe996
    Welcome. Take a look at this...click on "choose files"
  21. DBJoe996
    And another thought - there is one more thing that unlocks when you unlock the car, the fuel filler lid. Maybe that is sticking or is not aligned properly. You could put your ear down next to the fuel filler lid and unlock the car...see if the noise is from that.
  22. DBJoe996
    No ideas on the fault codes. Maybe something to do with a transmission fault causing the car to go into limp mode. Last transmission fluid/filter service? What happens if you put it manual mode? Does it do the same thing?
  23. DBJoe996
    If you are not going to have it scanned for which speed sensor is bad, then all you can do is replace them all (2 front and 2 back). I cannot think of a logical process of elimination to determine a bad one. They work off an induced electromagnetic pulse signal within the wheel carriers. I guess you could unplug each one and see if there is continuity across the terminals, but I don't know how far that will get you in determining which one is bad.
  24. DBJoe996
    Year and model would help. When you press the unlock on the remote, both doors unlock and the frunk lid and engine lid buttons (or cable pulls depending on year) unlock. Maybe it is one of those. Try unlocking the car while listening to where the sound is coming from, i.e., inside the door, at the bottom of the door and so on. Does it do the same thing when you use the dash lock/unlock button? Maybe while sitting in the car you can lock/unlock and determine where the noise is coming from.
  25. DBJoe996
    Good job! Coils definitely cracked all over the place. Spark plugs look worn but good as far as no unusual problems. Glad to hear you are replacing all coils/spark plugs. Your car will run much better.
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