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Everything posted by DBJoe996

  1. You replaced your MAF sensor....with what brand and type? It must be OEM or a Bosch unit.
  2. Engine number is on the drivers side next to the oil sump pan...like this. You are correct. 2000 was a transition year for the IMSB from the dual row bearing to the smaller single row bearing. As far as I know, on a 2000, there is no way to know whether it has a dual row or single row bearing by using the engine number. If it were me, I would just plan on having the LN IMS Solution installed as soon as possible. No sense in pulling the bearing and replacing with another bearing that will need to replaced again in 36-40K miles.
  3. With all of the parts you have replaced, and if your throttle cable and TB exhibit smooth operation (not sticking through full open and closed), the DME/ECU controls the idle speed. Reset your DME/ECU by disconnecting the negative battery cable for 30 minutes. Make sure if your radio requires a code that you know it. This will return the DME/ECU to default values vs learned values.
  4. My key stopped working over 10 years ago. Does not work to lock/unlock car. New battery in key fob did nothing, however the key fob red light does blink. It just doesn't communicate with the car. I figure the key circuit board is broken based on what I have read. Been using the manual key in the door lock ever since. No problem.
  5. 20 year old key fobs are going to fail, mostly because the circuit board inside the key fob fails. If you changed the battery inside the key and it stops working, more than likely the circuit board has broken. Options? Use the manual key to open and start car. Or go the $$$ route of buying and having new key(s) programmed to the car. Dealer only on that one.
  6. Post over here https://www.renntech.org/forum/239-lost-radio-codes/
  7. A check engine light on simply means one of the parameters the ECU monitors was off, and it always records a code that tells you specifically what was wrong. There are literally thousands of various codes that will throw the CEL. Next time, read the code before you clear codes. That code or codes will point you in the right direction. Also, I would get in touch with whomever did the LS3 conversion and ask them how they rigged the "fly-by-wire" throttle conversion. There is going to be a lot of frankenstein parts involved with an LS3 conversion. Just the fact the GM OBDII port didn't work but the Porsche OBDII port did is really questionable. Did they somehow "marry" (connect) the Porsche ECU to a GM ECU? How?
  8. It would help to know what the sound sounds like. Is it a squeal, thump, roar? Have you lifted the engine lid and made an inspection? It could be that the compressor clutch is heating up and dragging, so when you shut down and restart, it re-positions itself temporarily.
  9. Why are you even driving/running the car with the AC compressor seized? Even though the compressor clutch is disengaged, the clutch compressor bearings are still turning. You need to identify where the "noise" is coming from. A long handled screw driver or mechanics stethoscope placed against each turning component, pulley, will narrow down where the noise is coming from. However, if the compressor is seized, that is more than likely the source. You run the risk of having the compressor seize entirely and that will kill your serpentine belt. Fix your AC compressor!
  10. I have read many threads on using an aftermarket switch and it not working out. Many have tried the VW/Audi switch and it does what yours is doing. For the cost and the pain of replacement, go OEM.
  11. You are correct and normally I do. Don't know why I didn't on this job since it involves disconnecting the air bag. I ran the engine so I could crank the steering wheel to get to the airbag bolts, and it all just kind went from there. Got lucky....but not a wise thing to do.
  12. I wanted to document my project so it might help the next person. Problem - horn honking when going over bumps. Pulled B3 fuse until my new horn frame came in. I noticed in some previous post they said use a T30 bit. Mine is a 99 C2 four spoke steering wheel. The correct bit is a T27 for the air bag bolts. They were definitely tight so I bought a right angled tool. I ran the car and turned the steering wheel so I could easily access the two air bag bolts at 6 o'clock. It was fairly easy. I held on to the airbag and undid the bolts. Turned off car and removed the key. Gently lowered the airbag. The yellow connector on the back of the air bag simply unplugs, pull it off and set the air bag aside. The four bolts that hold the horn frame are 17mm and come right out. A reverse of the procedure is all it took. The air bag bolts must be in the back side of the horn frame, so I used some small sections of rubber hose to hold the bolts in place until I got the frame bolted in, then removed them and put air bag in place. That was about it. The rubber bushings on the old horn frame were basically gone, thus the horn honking going over bumps. I did not undo the battery and the air bag light did not come on after I was done.
  13. How is your battery voltage? A lot of strange gremlins happen when the battery voltage is low. Also strange gremlins when the electrical part of the ignition switch starts to go bad. When you say the doors no longer lock...is that with the remote or putting the key in the door latch? Do the doors lock if you use the console switch?
  14. That part number has been upgraded (reason why yours broke) 99710102100 Porsche Cap, Eng Block Wate 99710102100 WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM
  15. Do they go down all the way, or like about an 8 inch drop? Do the windows drop slightly when you pull the door handle? My car has done this on the drivers side window. Lock it and walk away. Come back to the car and the window had dropped about 8 inches. I did replace the window regulator and the entire door latch mechanism w/microswitches with OE Porsche parts. The car has never done the window drop again. It is strange that both windows are doing it since there is no connection between the windows that would make them both drop. I would also give a thought to the window switches in the center console.
  16. You had a lot of work done on the car at one time. One thing to check is to make sure all the spark plugs are tight. Any CEL?
  17. I think you are going to have to experiment with sealants. Has to both be oil resistant and handle the exhaust temperatures. I think the idea of a stud is a good one to try. Maybe a stud and some sealant on the threads like this would work: Robot Check WWW.AMAZON.COM
  18. It helps if you give the year and model of your car. Anyway, my 99 C2 dash lights do not come on unless I turn on the headlights. So I'm wondering if maybe the light switch is bad. Have you tried turning on and off the headlights?
  19. In my opinion, the secondary air injection system is a bandaid to USA emissions control and should be entirely eliminated. You should consider the cheaper alternative of having the ECU/DME programmed for ROW (rest of world) coding to eliminate/ignore the SAI system. Try the ECU Doctors...they can do it. Specialized ECU Repair, Replacement Testing of Electronic Control Unit WWW.ECUDOCTORS.COM Porsche, BMW, Ferrari - We'll make any used ECU work - Send us your damaged ECU and we'll TEST and REPAIR your unit and send it back to you with our 5 YEAR WARRANTY.
  20. I'm not really sure what you are asking. The part number is for this: Muffler - Porsche (996-111-132-54) | Sunset Porsche Parts WWW.SUNSETPORSCHEPARTS.COM Porsche part # 996-111-132-54 - Muffler
  21. Try to reset the window limits. Push the button to close and when it has reached the limit continue to hold the up button for 10 seconds. Do the same for down, push down and hold the button for 10 seconds after it is down.
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