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Everything posted by DBJoe996

  1. DIY: 996 Door Latch Replacement [Detailed] - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 996 Forum - DIY: 996 Door Latch Replacement [Detailed] - If your window does not stay lowered when your door is open, chances are that a switch within the door latch has gone out. This is a detailed procedure to change...
  2. I am not 100% certain, but if you take off the plastic trim cover covering the hood latch, you should be able to see everything. You pull the interior cover back a bit to reach the bolts that hold the hood latch to the frame. It is all pretty straight forward from there.
  3. The hoses 1 and 3 are the supply and return lines for the front radiators. They are located on the back side of the engine near the transmission. They connect to the metal supply and return lines that run up the center transmission tunnel and go to the front radiators. You probably have to remove the underbelly pans to see them. Those hoses attach to #9 and #10 here M96.01/02/03 Water Cooling 2 M96.04 WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM
  4. From what I remember on this issue is that the fuel filler neck has a magnetic reed valve very close to the top of the fuel filler neck and it has either fallen out of the plastic holder or it is faulty. You have to remove the passenger side wheel liner to access the reed valve. I'll try to find a picture of it.
  5. Yes, you are correct on the actuator part number. I don't see any advantage in replacing the entire lock mechanism unless it is corroded or stuck. Usually some white lithium grease will help it operate freely.
  6. Not the gas cap but the fuel filler door. Good that you managed to find the emergency release cable. Now do yourself a huge favor and pull the plastic piece covering the hood latch and relocate the cable to just behind the front bumper tow hook plug. It fits right in there and the next time all you have to do is pop the tow hook plug and there is the cable. Now from your description of problems, I think you should take a look at the hood release actuator. It might be the source of both problems, horn beep, stuck hood latch and it not working from the lock buttons. See Part #19 here in this parts diagram. I think you should be able to hear it click while someone operates the button. If not, then it is probably faulty. Lid Front WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM
  7. Couple of ideas here Drivers Headlights flickering. acting weird on me. Need help - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 996 Forum - Drivers Headlights flickering. acting weird on me. Need help - Hi guys, I was wondering if someone on here has had the same thing happen to them. Several months back i noticed that sometimes my drivers HL...
  8. I don't think I get it...the hood looks like it is already out of the hood latch and sprung up. Then you move the little red lever that is visible with your finger to the right to open the hood. Am I missing something?
  9. Just because you have fuel pressure at the rails doesn't mean you are getting full fuel flow. A 99 C2 has a fuel filter and at your mileage it should have been replaced already. Also agree on the CPS. Both of these issues will not throw a CEL code because they are not emission related faults. Might also consider the fuel pressure regulator. If it is weak or stuck it will bleed off pressure when the engine is hot.
  10. You mentioned two other things in your first post. The K&N air filter removal. Did you get a stock air filter box? What type of custom muffler bypass? Fister or Gundo, or something else entirely.
  11. The original Porsche MAF sensor is 996-606-123-00-OEM The Bosch OEM MAF sensor is 996-606-123-00-M14. I don't know the difference between the M14 and MS19 and I don't think they are revisions. These are for cars without E-Gas.
  12. Your DME should be at ME5.2.2 and you can check it out at the time you hook up the Durametric.
  13. Looks like the correct MAF part number for a 99 C2. Is it OE Porsche or Bosch OEM or aftermarket? Our cars are really picky about the correct MAF sensor.
  14. Start with the fuses in the fuse panel. Why did you have to jump start the car? Bad battery, low battery will cause all sorts of electrical problems.
  15. Yes. Pull the pins down and the clips will open. Move them slightly out of the way and you can lift the seat bottom up. Careful, there are some wires attached to the seat bottom that need to be detached before lifting and moving the seat bottom forward and out. Best to get the seat in a position to do this, and move the steering wheel all the way in to make more room. It is also a good idea to disconnect the battery before doing this since the seat pad affects the airbag system and seat belt system. Take a picture of the wiring harness and connectors before disconnecting them.
  16. This certainly is going down hill fast. I would stop locking the car because it may get to the point where it does not unlock. It does appear more and more to be a problem with the immobilizer. When you insert the key in the ignition, the passive RFID pill in the key is read by the immobilizer and a two way communication occurs between the immobilizer and DME. This two way communication says...yes this is the right key so go ahead and power up the systems, fuel pump, ignition circuits and so on. So you are getting part of the two way communications between the immobilizer and DME, but not all of it. And the recent episode of the fuel pump running without the key in the car says to me something is shorted. I also would start removing as much of the wet carpet as you can under the drivers seat. One question - when you put the new battery in, did you connect the + cable first and then the - cable? How did the cables and connectors look?
  17. Weird gremlins. Usually a result of a bad ignition switch, but all you did was replace the battery. Wondering if the immobilizer is keeping the car locked down. Maybe try the fuse panel jumper again with the key in the ignition and turned to ON (not start). Good luck on fishing out the emergency release cable. And after you figure all this out, it is a 15 minute job to relocate the front trunk lid emergency release cable down to just behind the bumper tow hook plug. Saves hours of frustration. Pop the bumper plug and there is the emergency release cable. One tug and you are in.
  18. What does the voltmeter gauge in the instrument cluster read when you turn the ignition to on? Should show almost 14V. You cannot use the fuse panel pop out with a battery charger. It does not provide the amps needed. Hook a strong 12V battery to the fuse panel pop out and grounding point. There is another emergency release cable for the engine lid under the left rear tail light. Take a soft smooth wedge and make some space between the bottom of the light and the bumper. You probably can fish it out with a self made hook. That will gain you access to the jumper points in the engine bay where again you can hook up a good 12V battery (or jump from another vehicle) to see what you can get working. Might be a good idea to check all of your fuses. I recently bought a box of blade fuses and it came with a little tester that you just touch to each fuse to check it. Took about 2 minutes to run through the whole fuse panel. A hair dryer set on low would help dry up the carpet.
  19. MAF sensor wiring has nothing to do with the AC. You should be able to remove the air filter box and still cycle the AC compressor on/off with the engine running.
  20. Worth a try - disconnect the negative battery lead and let the car sit for 30 minutes. That should reset the DME to base values and programming. Other than that www.ecudoctors.com
  21. A mechanics stethoscope comes in handy when checking for noises that only occur while the engine is running. The AC compressor could very well be the source of ticking. When you turn on the AC, the compressor electromagnetic clutch engages and stops free wheeling. So the tick could be from the clutch when it is not engaged. You can also check the other pulleys, power steering pump and alternator for noises as well. You want it to be something like this and not something internal to the engine.
  22. Low mileage is really not good with these cars. The more they are driven the better off they are. Garage queens develop all kinds of mechanical issues, just from sitting and not running. 99 C2 with 143K miles. Get out and drive!
  23. Not seeing much out of the ordinary here. AOS breather hose goes to Bank 2. That black and white thing is a vacuum check valve. Check the plenum clamps and make sure they are squared up and tight. Clean everything up and monitor. The inside of the plenum looks good. I always replace the TB O-ring when pulling the TB for cleaning.
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