hahnmgh63

I agree with gbratk, being an older Cayenne and you don't mention the miles but the wiring harness on the passenger door may have shorted somewhere. Possibly a factory installation error or just age & over worked wires flexing. First thought at least.

Good write up. I know many others have had good luck with the Vertex shaft. Did you let Vertex know about the crappy quality flex disc?

The Generic will work on standard OBDII codes but not on manufacturer specific (custom) codes. Durametric works pretty well and is getting better. If you have a Volkswagen or Audi product and have or thinking about getting Ross Tech Vagcom, it works well on the Cayenne as most every module is a standard Bosch unit from the Tourag which Vagcom is also designed to work on. I have Durametric and Vagcom. I still get an occaisonal fault on some modules from the Durametric but the Vagcom works 100% of the time.

Better yet, here is all of it, yours doesn't sound like it's operating properly: Note on operation Frequent level changes can cause the compressor to overheat. In this case, the compressor must cool for several minutes before the level adjustment is fully functional again. Normal level The ground clearance at normal level is around 8.5 in or 217 mm. Terrain level This setting is intended for off-road driving, field paths and forest paths, etc. The vehicle is raised by around 1 in or 26 mm. compared to normal level. Terrain level can be selected only manually at speeds below around 50 mph (80 km/h). The car is automatically lowered to normal level at speeds exeeding around 50 mph (80 km/h). The car is automatically raised to terrain level when Low Range is activated. Special terrain level This setting is intended only for extremely challenging terrain requiring maximum ground clearance. The vehicle is raised by 2.2 in or 56 mm compared to normal level. Special terrain level can be selected only at speeds below around 19 mph (30 km/h). The car is automatically lowered to terrain level at speeds exeeding around 19 mph (30 km/h). Low level This level is intended for high-speed driving. Above speeds of around 78 mph (125 km/h), the car is lowered by around 1 in or 27 mm compared to normal level. When the speed drops to below around 25 mph (40 km/h), the car is automatically raised to normal level. Special low level At extremely high speeds, for example when operated on a race track, the car is lowered 0.4 in or 11 mm compared to the low level.

From my '06 CTTS owners manual: Low Level: This level is intended for high-speed driving. Above speeds of around 78 mph (125 km/h), the car is lowered by around 1 in or 27 mm compared to normal level. Special Low Level: At extremely high speeds, for example when operated on a race track, the car is lowered 0.4 in or 11 mm compared to the low level.

I definitely agree with Bigbuzuki and ask any transmission rebuilder if they believe in these horrendous change intervals, just like the engine. I change the ATF in both of my Automatics (Audi RS6 & Cayenne) at 40~50K intervals (Miles that is).

I too haven't heard of the engine mounts going bad but have heard of the top Torque rod bushings going bad. But the possibility is there if they are active engine mounts.

The Flex discs can get soft and cracked from Exposure/Time/Heat. BMW and many other manufacturers use a similar design and recommend to replace the Flex disc when replacing the drive shaft. Just like the rubber in the Center Support Bearing, the Rubber in the flex disc can go bad.

With my '06 CTTS I can never get Durametric to scan the Vehicle Electrical System. The program will lock up every time. I have on of the newer cables and use the latest Durametric software. It will Scan every other module except the VES?

If the EVOM tune is overboosting and the Pig is sensing knock it can pull the timing. Way too much knock or Boost and it will go into limp mode so it sounds like your Boost isn't to that point. Can you data log the Boost under load, 3rd gear pull like a Dyno?

Great pics, something for everyone to check.

You can do a bit of searching on the filter but I think there is a bit of concensus on the the internet that with Hot wire Mass flow sensors that you should stay away from any oiled filter. Stock filters are fine but many, and I would also tend to agree say that the oil soaked filters will cause the MAF an early demise. Think of a frying pan that you have burned oil in, once it is burnt you can clean it but you will never get that black burnt film off it again. Every time a MAF hotwire starts up it super heats to burn off contaminants and if there is oil on it.... I have the Fabspeed and they are overpriced but I paid it. My CTTS sounds better but only slightly louder and not really noticeable at cruise. Power increase is probably only half of what these companies claim.

Eurocharged can do a lot of custom tunes. When I pulled the engine on my RS6 for a $9 Turbo flange stud and ended up spending $9K on the project (all parts, my laborI also went with Catless Milltek downpipes and removed the Secondary Air injection system. A few companies said they could code out the Cats but only Eurocharged & Viper tuning said they could do the SAI system too. So I went with Eurocharged and have been happy with them. At no extra charge for the custom tuning also and they gave me a discount by buying software and loading tools for both cars.

mbagge01, do I know you from RS6.com? The Eurocharged tune for the CTTS isn't claimed to have as big of a difference as the tune for the regular CTT. I can see why as the CTTS is the exact same engine, just with bigger intercoolers and higher boost. So with higher boost, they probably can't bump up the boost on the CTTS that much as Porsche already did a bit but they've got more room to play with on the CTT. The throttle response is better with the Eurocharged than it was before, much more like it is when you turn the PSM off, just without the tranny downshifting with the PSM off.

I would tend to agree with Loren on this. Sometimes you can get a little better throttle response and a little more BHP & TQ but not much. I use Eurocharged in my CTTS and my Audi RS6 (Both Twin Turbos) and for the 3.2lt they claim 14bhp & 14lb/ft TQ but in reality it is probably a little less than this.

Coolant could also be coming from the plastic "T"s if they weren't done at the same time as the pipes, many dealers don't do the T's at the same time. Could be Coolant Reservoir, they seem to fail at the 6~8yr point. Many coolant hose too. Where is it coming to in relation to the engine, front, rear, right, left? Also, post your year and model.

I just did the adaption on my '06 CTTS today and mine also stopped at 11. Makes me feel better that someone else got the same reading. I have had no problems but did get a Eurocharged tune last year. Martin, with the EVOM tune can you revert back to stock to see if the problem goes away? With the Eurocharged you get a MyGenius loading tool and you first copy the stock program, save it then you upload the Eurocharged tune and can go back to stock at any time, or upload a different Eurocharged tune.

Check with Ignited above and see if he found a solution. I don't even know if Porsche sells the last of the CD based discs any more, last updated in 2005 I think. Which begs to ask, if Porsche does not support a product anymore, is it still copyrighted? Any Attorney's here that can answer that question? I have the PCM2.1 which was last updated a couple of years (at least 3+ year old data) ago but I am also wondering if that was our last update, no word from Porsche yet?

Yes, Porsche, and most newer cars Coolants are the longer life Pink or Reddish color. Do not mix the older green standard coolant. The older Green coolant doesn't last as long and is much more corrosive to Aluminum and other metals in modern cars.

Loren I think he was just asking to borrow the set to check if his Nav was working properly, I don't think he was asking to copy the discs which would then be a copyright violation?

I think you are right in that they were only offered in 20". If they were OEM they would have a Porsche Part # stamped in the back. Do they say on the back on the inside of a spoke any info? Made?

deilenberger is correct, I just went out to the shop an it is Stabilant 22. And I haven't purchased any for a few years so maybe it can be found cheaper nowadays. I believe it is manufactured in Canada. Here is a good Pro Gold / Deoxit description. Keep in mind this is pretty much an ad from the manufacture too: http://store.caig.com/s.nl/ctype.KB/it.I/id.1977/KB.215/.f

Sounds like it could be a fuel pump or filter/check valve.

The ProGold is available in a squeeze tube or aerosol spray can. I spray it on the electrical connector contacts in the electrical plugs. Do a Google search, Pro Gold is very popular in the high end electronics industry. Stabilant 44 is another matter. Sounds like it is so good that it is magic, but they also charge an arm and a leg for it. Stabilant 44 is available from VW/Audi dealers but definitely not cheap. A Google search of either brand will reveal nothing but positive performance feedback.

On my '06 Turbo S I flushed out all of the Steering fluid last summer and re-installed with the newer CHF202 fluid over the older CHF11S. Porsche had a TSB saying that the newer 11S is backwards compatible and mixable, I also found that it cost a little less than the 11S fluid. Seemed to sound better after the flush and the old fluid definitely wasn't a nice green like new CHF11S is.