Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Silver_TT

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    774

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    15

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Silver_TT

  1. Silver_TT
    Is the metal ferrous?
  2. Silver_TT
    See post #22 here: Mobilube PTX Transmission Fluid: "Must do maintenance" for all 997s - Page 2 - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 997 Forum - Mobilube PTX Transmission Fluid: "Must do maintenance" for all 997s - While I had my car on Wayne's lift the other day for the water pump project, I also changed my tranny fluid to PTX. Its one of the simplest DIY projects and based on my results I believe it's must... I have never done business with this place but I noticed they said they buy the 20L and break it up into 1Ls for sale.
  3. Silver_TT
    Ya you need a Snap On or similar machine that can test it in the car (much easier, the flange on the back of the alternator was a PITA) .... the problem I ran into was the initial test that said my alternator "PASSED" was done with a very cheap/crap machine at Auto Zone. I would avoid a place like this in general.......
  4. Silver_TT
    So you tested it with the Schumacher? Assuming your battery is good ...... Sounds like my exact experience on my 2002 996 -- stuff flickering, etc. There were two issues: First of all there is a thick gauge wiring harness that is known to corrode (believe there is a TSB on this). Replacing this solved a ton of my voltage drop. There are threads here that you can use to use a multimeter to trace the drop from hop to hop. Second the alternator was marginal but this was very tricky. It passed a bench test at a place like Auto Zone but after my issue persisted I was confused and suspected it must have something to do with it so had it tested further and they found the alternator was doing funny things -- not working to spec at specific RPM ranges, etc. Anyway, after replacing that all was golden again. I recall the key fob and alarm going off, total PITA
  5. Silver_TT
    Call Stan at GBox, he did my getrag and the guy is a rockstar
  6. Silver_TT
    Don't waste your money, those products are not going to clean the intake valves of a DFI engine. That stuff is harder than a rock...... when I think of carbon I always think about diamonds Switch to a low volatility oil and if it's really bad pull the intake manifold and walnut blast it. Welcome to owning a DFI engine...... 🙂
  7. Silver_TT
    Welcome aboard!
  8. Silver_TT
    +1 about removing the IMS bearing seal..... this was written up in Excellence magazine dating back to 10 years ago, etc.
  9. Silver_TT
    Don't even try it. I have gotten pretty decent at working on my engine too but I wouldn't even consider touching a gearbox -- these are highly sophisticated and requires trainin and experience. Stan at GBOX is awesome and rebuilt my Getrag better than new.... read this about the procedure: GBOX LLC. Porsche and Getrag service-GEARBOX REBUILDING WWW.GBOXWEB.COM Performance kitcar gearboxes, custom gearing, differentials. transaxle rebuilding.
  10. Silver_TT
    Looks like the start of D chunk. Smart move sending it to Charles...............
  11. Silver_TT
    I actually thought only the 3.8L was GDI. Either way if your engine is port injected like a Mezger you can run the same oil in DT40: Driven DT40 5W-40 Synthetic Street Performance Oil DRIVENRACINGOIL.COM DT40 and DI40 are very similar in many regards (high ZDDP etc)....
  12. Silver_TT
    Sorry I can't help myself but I couldn't agree more with JFP. Mobil 1 0W-40 shears out of grade very quickly I would avoid it. If you run this oil I would change your oil every 2K miles absolute max. I am not an oil company direct shareholder so my advice has no bias but I have spent an embarrassing amount of time studying tribology after a timing chain failure almost bricked my engine while I was busy paying attention to other things. I'll just be frank with you and tell you that this is the best oil you can run in the GT3 RS 4.0: Driven DI40 0W-40 Synthetic Direct Injection Performance Motor Oil DRIVENRACINGOIL.COM You can buy a 10-pack on Amazon for $150 and it's sold directly by Driven Oil. Good luck and the GT3 RS 4.0 is one Hell of a car.
  13. Silver_TT
    Awesome. Thank you for the information as always.
  14. Silver_TT
    Just out of curiosity, what is the spec lubricant that can't be purchased in the USA?
  15. Silver_TT
    You should replace the entire HPFP. This very problem is the reason I preemptively replaced my HPFP last month. If you're not changing your own oil so you can smell and feel the oil or doing oil analysis this can be easy to miss. The HPFP can leak gasoline into your oil and cause fuel dilution. The pumps were also revised as time went on. I would order a new HPFP using your VIN from Sunset. Also I don't know as much about the 2009 but I suspect it could use a flat tappet. If that is the case I would carefully inspect the tappet and camshaft lobe where it makes contact. Even looking at my roller tappet at 100K miles it had very light scoring and when you shook it compared to the new part you could hear more play, so I replaced it even though everyone says you don't need to.
  16. Silver_TT
    I got this for about $40 at advance auto parts ($55 but you can use coupons). https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/schumacher-battery-load-tester-and-voltmeter-100-amp-bt-100/9200014-P?searchTerm=Schumacher+load+tester AGM batteries use a superior technology over a traditional flooded lead acid in many regards. They are definitely the way to go, I will never buy a flooded battery again for sure. Many of the newer Porsche models come with AGM batteries standard. Even my 2014 Audi Q5 came with one (probably because of increased power demands--heated seats, liftgate, navigation systems, etc).
  17. Silver_TT
    Since you are replacing the battery anyway you may want to consider upgrading to an AGM instead of the flooded Interstate M 94R battery.
  18. Silver_TT
    I would monitor the cam deviation periodically, say every 5K at your oil change. Goes without saying but this means way more than whatever the engine now sounds like. I would also refresh the timing before it gets to 6 degrees IMHO. While on a different engine, I have seen the chain stretch or guides wear enough that it caused the chain to skip teeth ... but it never had triggered a CEL. Just a tooth or two is enough to completely brick a head on an interference engine; there is very little room for error in this regard. For example on my Audi 2.0T CPMB engine the timing chain was stretched just under 6 degrees on a hot engine at idle. This is ridiculous and a ticking time bomb without question -- but if you didn't measure or didn't know you should, you couldn't tell a single bit of difference on the car, it drove perfectly..... It's such an easy/fast thing to do and the consequences of missing it are so punitive. It won't help your guides much but running a "good" oil can help reduce chain "stretch".
  19. Silver_TT
    Nice picture! The TT is insanely fast on straights -- so fast my windshield wipers would flutter.
  20. Silver_TT
    It's "Porsche" -- but obviously someone else makes it, I have never seen branding on the pump. My two cents but I wouldn't worry about who makes it......
  21. Silver_TT
    My Revo tune came with this to switch back and forth between tuned and stock like Loren is saying -- but it didn't work: Serial Port Switch (SPS) | Only REVO WWW.ONLYREVO.COM Also I don't understand why but I live 3 minutes from a Porsche dealer who back then was super friendly (since then was bought by a larger national dealership network and they now suck). I tried having them flash the computer back to stock but for some reason only Revo was able to do it. This is why I was so annoyed they made me drive 2 hours to their authorized location, then I did all the work talking to the support people in Europe to show the tech how to do it. Cobb is probably much better just based on what I have read. I liked this car stock but if you want to tune it just be sure to do some research and get a good tune as their are a lot of crap ones out there. Also test it on a dyno if you can. When I bought my 996TT the owner claimed something ridiculous like it made the car 600 HP. I knew this was B.S. but wanted the car anyway, the tune just came with it. Anyway, after I took the tune off and was driving home on the highway I could tell no difference. I kept thinking maybe they didn't put down the right flash file but I drove straight to the emissions center where I immediately passed (since enough time had gone by driving to set my readiness states)
  22. Silver_TT
    My 996TT came flashed with Revo and it's complete garbage. Long story short the car wouldn't pass emissions in the tough state I live in (it's outsourced to a 3rd party and they do a checksum on the flashROM and if doesn't match stock you fail) and when i took it off I noticed no difference in performance. The car is a monster with no flash. Also screw Revo and the horse they rode in on. It came with a device that is supposed to flash back and forth to stock but it didn't work. Revo support wouldn't give me the Porsche OE flash file and demanded that I take the car to one of their "authorized" centers two hours away from the major city I live in. Please, I have a degree in computer science, this is laughable. Ok fine, I understand though, you have to control things so I was still good. BUT when I got there it was some small car repair shop with an 18 year old that I had to show how to use the software and pay 1-2 hours labor to help him flash my own car back to stock. And Revo is in Europe so it was annoying timezone etc because the kid had to call them to get some information.
  23. Silver_TT
    I would buy wiper blades from Amazon directly (not a 3rd party seller) but not a water pump. Also avoid places like ECS, AutohausAZ, etc as Sunset is a real dealer and usually not much more expensive (sometimes cheaper) and the part quality is genuine/higher and from a vendor that controls their supply chain. Even aside from the terminology games some play, I have seen several instances of people buying from these places based on model or something other than VIN and they ending up with a part that looks the same but isn't the correct one for their vehicle. I have seen this on everything from alternators to PCV's with the wrong diaphragm vacuum spec.... and it lead them on a huge wild goose chase throwing parts at it. Only to find they should have just been using authentic parts and saving the trouble in the first place for little extra cost.
  24. Silver_TT
    Sunset has great pricing and provide your VIN so be sure you always get the correct parts/fluids. Just to reiterate because I personally got burned by it so no one knows better (previous owner used RedLine or similar and took it out of the "dealer only serviced" records). NEVER EVER EVER use aftermarket gear oil. It trashed the synchros and internals. Sorry for the all caps but this cost me probably $7K+ all in to fix properly and thank god I didn't have a PDK or I would have been SOL. I read on the Audi and Porsche forums all the time that people say they can create their own friction modifiers to match the same as the OE formula and it drives me crazy how naïve these people are with no background in lubrication or chemistry. This isn't like motor oil where you can take your pick (although some are clearly better than others). This is probably one of the biggest misconceptions and areas of false information I have seen. People trying to save $50 on fluid at the risk of ruining their entire transaxle, it drives me crazy.
  25. Silver_TT
    strong work!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.