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dporto

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Everything posted by dporto

  1. dporto
    High miles indeed! 147,xxx.xx. I think it's a replacement motor, as it's a M96-04 and the car is a '99 C4. Although I'd rather not have to change out the pads etc. they are wear items, so at some point I've got to face the music. I suppose I've got to start researching how to do the job. Whether it's possible with the engine in the car - or just not worth the hassle? Also, sourcing all the applicable tools, parts etc...As much as I like doing the work myself, it might be worth it to bring it to someone. This will take some thought/research...
  2. dporto
    Not to hijack this thread, but my problem is clearly related, so I hope this is acceptable. I also posted this over on Rennlist... See below "So, I posted a few weeks back that I had gotten a CEL after I had done some work to my cooling system (fixed a leaking hose above the oil pump housing). After refilling with coolant and driving 50 miles or so, the light went away initially, but has come back now after 300 miles or so. I read the stored code with a generic reader and got a 1341. After checking around a bit I decided to break down and get a Durametric. I got to hook it up after work today and this is what I got. Per the fault code "camshaft adjustment bank 1 below limit value" - What exactly is the meaning of this? Worn chain pads? Bad adjuster? Both? Any ideas (preferably educated ) would be appreciated "
  3. dporto
    That's a fairly apples to oranges comparison. There's obviously going to be a major difference with no muffler at all (fabspeed bypass pipes - deletes the muffler and is most likely crazy loud). I think this is a better/more direct comparison: http://www.fabspeed.com/996-carrera-maxflo-performance-exhaust-system/ As you can see, the price difference is huge... I can speak for the Maxflo's as I've got them on my car (I didn't purchase though - They were on it when I bought). They sound great and save a little weight - the power increase is highly debatable and without the rest of a complete system and possibly a tune shouldn't really be a factor.
  4. dporto
    Another "helpful" dealer...What a surprise...
  5. dporto
    Regardless of whether the AOS has been changed, it still sounds like an AOS problem. There have been reports of "brand new" AOS's going bad shortly/immediately after installation. It's possible that you got a bad one... :-(
  6. dporto
    Since you're trying to replace the standard wheels with lesser offsets, you may have an issue with clearance for the brake calipers. I can't say for sure since I don't know what the actual clearances are for the standard offsets. If this is actually the case, you can always add spacers to make up for the lack of offset.
  7. dporto
    I believe it's called... "The Twilight Zone"...
  8. dporto
    Perhaps Porsche doesn't list them, but did u look at the link I posted? I'm pretty sure it's the part...
  9. dporto
    Try this... http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=807-10
  10. dporto
    ^^^So, I'm finally able to put this issue to bed! What I found was that due to the leather covering on the vent module, part # 27 was virtually impossible to remove without first getting the light-switch to turn. The difficulty with this is that that the switch is "keyed" by a plastic tab on part #27... What I wound up doing was turning the light switch hard enough that it snapped the "key tab" enough to let the switch turn far enough to pop out of the housing. With the switch out of the way, I was able to push #27 out from behind. This revealed why it was so tight and difficult to remove - the leather covering was wrapped over the edge of the cup that #27 fits into - which in turn created a super tight fit (not to mention the excess glue used to secure the leather to the plastic vent unit). Once I had it out I sanded the outside of the part a bit and waxed both it, and the inside of the vent unit that it fits into (just in case I ever need to remove it again). I glued the "key-tab" (it wasn't broken all the way off, just cracked and bent over) back into position, and re-assembled with the new light-switch. **Unfortunately, after all this, my problem remains - passenger Litronic low beam works intermittently.**... on to the ballast and/or ignitor...
  11. dporto
    Hahaha! No, not a quiz...I just can't for the life of me get that front piece out, and hence can't get the switch out either. The nut is off, and I've gotten quite good at removing the vent unit, but the switch - not so much
  12. dporto
    Ok, so how did you get part # 27 out of the surround?
  13. dporto
    ^Thanks^, and herein lies my problem... Any idea how I might "slide the switch faceplate about 5mm (1/4 inch) out of the vent unit" ? I can't get it to budge... Have you ever actually done one of these? I just can't believe how tight the thing is - it's like it was pressed in, and there's nothing to grab to get it back out... Thanks again
  14. dporto
    Nuthin'? No body else has had a problem with this piece? Wow...at least my lights work MOST of the time...
  15. dporto
    Thanks again for the reply! Yeah, my problem I think is that the front "insert piece" (#27 the one that sits in front of the switch) just refuses to budge and it keeps the "legs" of the switch from clearing the stops that keep it from turning when you turn the lights on. That front piece is just jammed in there and I'm afraid of breaking the plastic "cup" of the corner vent unit that it fits into - I've got the "full leather" interior, and that side vent unit retails for $1368.91
  16. dporto
    ^Thanks^, but I can do all that stuff with my eyes closed by now (I've had the vent/corner unit out probably 10 times now). Unfortunately, I cant get the switch itself out of the surround. it's the last step (#5) that I can't get past...
  17. dporto
    So, I finally broke down and bought a new light switch (because my right side low beam refuses to light on occasion). I had an hour or so yesterday,and I decided to try to install it. My problem is that I can't get the original switch out of the receptacle. I'm able to remove the vent housing etc. but cant for the life of me get the switch out of the housing. This is due to the "faceplate" capturing it so it can't turn past the stops... Any ideas to get this thing apart would be welcomed! Thanks
  18. dporto
    There are a bunch of rubber bushings in the suspension that wear out and can cause clunking. Two very common ones are the strut top-mounts. Also if you get any squeaking the lower control arms (coffin arms - with ball joint) are usually the culprit. Good luck
  19. dporto
    Thanks Loren - You're a great resource (as well as this site) as well ! :thumbup:
  20. dporto
    There's a torque value book available from : "The Knowledge Group"... http://www.theknowledgegruppe.com/index.php/product/996-torque-book-fastening-specifications-for-porsche-911-type-996-automobile/ While it's not inexpensive, It's got just about every single torque value for every fastener in the entire car listed by section (i.e. engine, fuel, brakes, front suspension, rear suspension, body, etc.). In other words, it's worth it's weight in gold - I use it just about every time I work on the car.
  21. dporto
    :cheers: Drive it in good health!!! And of course, if it's not garaged, check those drains once in a while to make sure they're clear :cursing:
  22. dporto
    Poorly written maintenance schedules don't mean that the car was poorly designed or engineered. Once again, it goes to the fact that Porsche didn't think these items would be a problem because a) The cars would be garaged and/or b) if not garaged they would be maintained. I don't have an owners manual with me at the moment, but I'm pretty sure there is a section on keeping the drains clear...I understand exactly what you're trying to say, I just don't agree with you... :cheers:
  23. dporto
    I'm not sure why it would jam like that. It's possible that the plastic tray that the cam (the part that the wrench tool connects to) rides in is broken and the cam is jammed up under the light unit. You may want to remove the wheel and plastic wheel well liner and see if you can shine a light in from the wheel well side and see what's going on. The part I'm speaking of is # 16 in the following drawing http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=905-01 Good Luck
  24. dporto
    While you certainly have a right to your own opinion, you should go back and read my point... The fact is that the drains function properly if/when maintained properly. The fact that your drains were clogged with road muck simply means they weren't maintained - nothing more nothing less. You even go so far as to say "but on my Coupe they had not been cleared before I had it." - How is this poor design or engineering? "there are occasions when all cars get caught out in a downpour and that would fill the front or back cavities pretty quickly if the drains are blocked." - Don't let the drains get blocked... :lightbulb:
  25. dporto
    "Some of the dumbest engineering design decisions I have ever seen. Despite the cost and my stupidity, I felt so good when I picked up my cab yesterday and drove that sucker. Think I'm a 996 addict." It's so easy to second guess "engineering design decisions" after the fact (especially after you "get bitten"). I think when looking back at these types of decisions, it's important to take into account some of the assumptions the engineers were working under. I would think that given the high cost/selling price of the car, they would assume that the car would a: be garaged, or b: at the very least be well/properly maintained. In both these cases, the design of the drainage system proves to be more than adequate to keep the sensitive electronics safe and dry. While your situation is indeed unfortunate and very costly to you, it's realty not do to poor design - it's clearly a case of poor or complete lack of proper maintenance. In any case, I'm sorry to hear of your misfortune and wish you the best of luck going forward! :thumbup:
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