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looking to purchase 996


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Hello,

In the spring I plan on purchasing a 996. I have a few questions about the different years.

Are the 2000 - 2001 3.4 motors are bad as people make them seem to be? You can buy

those cars much cheaper than 2002+ 3.6l cars.

Am I crazy for even considering a model year 2000 car?

Also, I would like to get a cabriolet. I have learned that the 2002's (with 3.6l motor)

also have a real glass rear window. Is that significant or not?

Anything else I need to know? I am looking to spend $25K or so. I realize that I will be

looking at a car with 50K+ miles on it.

Thanks,

Barry

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Hello,

In the spring I plan on purchasing a 996. I have a few questions about the different years.

Are the 2000 - 2001 3.4 motors are bad as people make them seem to be? You can buy

those cars much cheaper than 2002+ 3.6l cars.

Am I crazy for even considering a model year 2000 car?

Also, I would like to get a cabriolet. I have learned that the 2002's (with 3.6l motor)

also have a real glass rear window. Is that significant or not?

Anything else I need to know? I am looking to spend $25K or so. I realize that I will be

looking at a car with 50K+ miles on it.

Thanks,

Barry

Actually, the more commom IMS failures are on the 02 up. The 3.4 is basically bullet-proof

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Hey Barry,

I was going through the same process you were about a year ago. My previous car was a 2000 Boxster S. For the Boxsters, the plastic windows were actually bigger than the glass ones.

I ended up with a 1999 C4 with 48k mi, price was definitely a deciding factor. Right around your price point. 2002s were about $9000 or more than a 99 at that point in time. The question boils down to if the facelift, and the slightly bigger engine is worth $9000 to you. In the end, I wanted a 911 for GTI money, not BMW 328i money.

The engine thing seems to be a crap shoot. I have a friend whose Boxster S engine blew even though it was newer. Getting a another used engine put in probably costs around what you save buying a 99/00 over a 2002.

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Boy, that the only person who I have heard say that 3.4's were more reliable than 3.6's. If you read the articles, etc. and look at the history I think the 3.4's were much more of a problem. The IMS has been revised 5 times and the newer ones are supposed to be a big improvement.

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Boy, that the only person who I have heard say that 3.4's were more reliable than 3.6's. If you read the articles, etc. and look at the history I think the 3.4's were much more of a problem. The IMS has been revised 5 times and the newer ones are supposed to be a big improvement.

I'm not the 'only' person; you just happened to be close-minded. If you research the IMS issue, you will find that the 'early' 996 engines were way overbuilt and unfortunately, as most car-makers do, Porsche down-engineered the IMS shaft and bearing to cut costs.

Do more research and you will find that the 3.4's are track tested - true and true. Plus the fact that they are lighter weight vehicles and quicker too, even though they do not have the additional HP that later came with the 3.6's.............READ Friend and feed that grey-matter upstairs..........

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etwd,

Your opinion is your opinion and I repect that.

The fact is that the 3.4's have a very bad reputation. I had one good one (a 3.4) and one bad one.

This site is about intelligent conversation not name calling and insults.

Your nasty posts have no place on this forum.

We are trying to solve problems here not create more.

Phillipj

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WHAT?? Name calling? I really don't know who you think you are, but just because you had a 'good' one and a 'bad' one does not justify pushing the 3.4 to the curb. I’ve had the 99,00,01 in my family and have NEVER had one hic-cup. My family has owned nothing but Porsche since conception. Your remarks are biased based on people who have abused their engines and displayed their animosity via the internet. That is why I use the term 'close-minded'.

This is my opinion and there are many more just like mine. I respect your opinion, likewise, please respect mine. DO NOT DECIMATE MY NAME ON THIS FORUM AGAIN! If you have something constructive to say to me, please email me or PM me. Your anger comes shinning through in your text………….

Likewise, your 'nasty' posts have no place on this forum or for that matter, any other forum.

Edited by etwd
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A lot of people will tell you to buy the newest one you can afford. But I don't think that's the best advice for everyone, not if you have to stretch to buy that newer car. The fact is that each year you'll lose in depreciation conservatively half the value of a new motor. And that depreciation is certain, not speculative like the fear of engine failure is. Depreciation is real money, too. Yes, newer cars diminish the risk somewhat, but like all insurance they come at a price.

From my own really thorough homework on this, I drew the following conclusion: In managing the risk of engine failure, mileage and model year are not nearly so important as how the car has been driven and maintained. I won't elaborate because the topic seems to light some people up, but I'll just say this: Owning a Porsche is more expensive than buying a Porsche, one way or another, no matter what you choose. For my money, I'd give up a model year or two if it meant that I got a car driven by someone knowledgeable and who cared, and on which there was clear provenance, a complete ownership and maintenance history.

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There is a consumer mag that shows the 996 year 2000 and 2004 to have the least major engine problems. Then the major engine problems go up with the introduction of the 997. Year 2007 and 2008 seem to have overcome the engine problems for the 997. Take it for what it is worth.

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i am too looking for a 99 00 996, if you just look around , you will see ALOT of 996 with 100K+ miles, looks like these are the relieable engines,

compared to air cooled 911, you will see 100K+ miles 911 but with a rebuilt engines, most likey a few times,

Only seen a very few 996 with new engines

With that being said, I feel much more comfortable purchasing a 996 with more then 75K miles then one with under 60K miles,. the low miles 996 are scary to me, I figure this what causes the RMS failure, and cracked cylinder walls, By just sitting in a dry warm garage not running, these cars are designed to drive not sit , and they seem to go go go still havent found one with more then 150K

my 2 cents

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dporsche74 --

I went through the same exercise 2 years ago and I was even including Boxsters. (it was the golf bag in the trunk thing) The only real conclusion I came to was the 98-99 boxsters and 996's had some main issues porous engine block issues, RMS issues and oil separator issues. The engine block or its remanufactured engines and separator issues caused some engine failures. Most of those issues were fixed in 2000+.

Glass vs plastic rear windshield. Depends how long you are going to drive the car and what area of the country. I'm in Pittsburgh. My Cab top goes up and down a lot, due to rain or lousy weather, but I love it on one of those 30 sunny days. :-) The plastic window will cloud in certain areas, due to the carpeting in the rear holding well and bending of the window. If you plan to hold the car for some time and the top is up in the sun, you will run into the delamination issue. This is where the rear window adhesive starts to separate. If this is caught early enough, you can use some clear silicone sealer to keep the well dry. I bought my car with the delamination issue just starting. 2 years later the bond is still good, but if I were consoursing the car it would be laughed at for imperfection. www.carcareonline.com has some good tips to clear up a clouded plastic rear. The tips work well.

If this clouding and imperfection bother you then buy a glass windowed model.

The statement about buying the newest on you can afford is generally a rule to follow. But the key to the statement is not newest, but AFFORD. Make sure you have a good local Porsche mechanic that will treat your car like it was their own. I am lucky to be using C&G performance in Sewickley. Champ is a very above board guy.

Make sure you get a PPI before you start the negotiations. Hopefully the mechanic is well versed and can tell you of any issues, so you can be prepared and are able to AFFORD them.

A HINT if you have to cart around a wife or passenger that is not into racing. 17's are softer than 18's and much more forgiving than 19's.

I love my 2000 996 C2 Cab, however I get early model envy when I hear them at the track.

Only 2 things in life I hold for long periods of time, a car and a wife.

Happy motoring,

Tom

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  • 2 weeks later...

Had my 2000 c2 for nearly 9 years now. did normal brakes and tires (stay away from pirrelli), headlight bulbs ($12 each), changed oil every 15k (mobile 1), did 30k maint, skipped 60k (gonna do now). 67k miles now and car is perfect. best engineered car in the world. 996 model and on changed everything from 993. but dont buy from a used dealer (these cars are beat up), buy from private party or porsche dealer.

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