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Radiator Flush


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I am doing a little spring work on my 98 5 speed Boxster. I am upgrading my OEM front bumper to a GT3 bumper. I also plan to add the third radiator and the 160F low temperature thermostat by LN Engineering.

My Pcar has 82 K on the clock and I thought while I had everything apart I would also replace my antifreeze.

My question is there a recommended radiator flush to perform, hoses/clamps, drain plug to replace, or even replacing the water pump as preventative maintenance while I had most of the water/antifreeze out?

Edited by kbrandsma
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I am doing a little spring work on my 98 5 speed Boxster. I am upgrading my OEM front bumper to a GT3 bumper. I also plan to add the third radiator and the 160F low temperature thermostat by LN Engineering.

My Pcar has 82 K on the clock and I thought while I had everything apart I would also replace my antifreeze.

My question is there a recommended radiator flush to perform, hoses/clamps, drain plug to replace, or even replacing the water pump as preventative maintenance while I had most of the water/antifreeze out?

There should be no flush needed, but you will need a new o-ring for the coolant drain plug (fifty cent item) and a dab of anti seize to put on the plug threads before you re torque it.

Check the condition of your water pump; you will need to drain the system all over again if it craps out 5 min. after you do your upgrades.

As you have a 5 speed car, you can also upgrade to the "S" oil cooler which is about twice the size of the base unit, and is a simple bolt in swap for about $200 or so (parts at retail). The larger cooler is one of the biggest bang for the buck mods you can do for a base car.....

PICT0015-3.jpg

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I am doing a little spring work on my 98 5 speed Boxster. I am upgrading my OEM front bumper to a GT3 bumper. I also plan to add the third radiator and the 160F low temperature thermostat by LN Engineering.

My Pcar has 82 K on the clock and I thought while I had everything apart I would also replace my antifreeze.

My question is there a recommended radiator flush to perform, hoses/clamps, drain plug to replace, or even replacing the water pump as preventative maintenance while I had most of the water/antifreeze out?

There should be no flush needed, but you will need a new o-ring for the coolant drain plug (fifty cent item) and a dab of anti seize to put on the plug threads before you re torque it.

Check the condition of your water pump; you will need to drain the system all over again if it craps out 5 min. after you do your upgrades.

As you have a 5 speed car, you can also upgrade to the "S" oil cooler which is about twice the size of the base unit, and is a simple bolt in swap for about $200 or so (parts at retail). The larger cooler is one of the biggest bang for the buck mods you can do for a base car.....

PICT0015-3.jpg

Oil heat Exchanger

Found one at Pelican Parts

part number:

996.107.025.57

price:

$151.75 plus shipping

I ordered the O rings as well. The next best price was $250.00 plus at Sunset, special order with a 1 week wait.

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The serp belt should have been replaced at 60k. If you are doing the thermostat, I'd replace the the waterpump, and belt if you are not positive it was done. I don't know that flushing the coolant is needed, sounds like you'll have it apart enought to just about completely drain it. You'll need two gallons of coolant and two gallons of distilled water to refill it.

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Is it a good idea to run a 160 degree thermostat? What state do you live in as I doubt a California car would run well with one.

I live in Washington State. Around Seattle the temp is very moderate, however I take several road trips into Eastern Washington where temps last summer around Lake Chelan reached 107 degrees. I don't track my car and the more I looked into it I just thought it was a great mod.

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The serp belt should have been replaced at 60k. If you are doing the thermostat, I'd replace the the waterpump, and belt if you are not positive it was done. I don't know that flushing the coolant is needed, sounds like you'll have it apart enought to just about completely drain it. You'll need two gallons of coolant and two gallons of distilled water to refill it.

Yes, I changed my serp belt myself at 62K . I might just do the waterpump and serp belt again while I'm at it.

Anybody have any thoughts on changing the waterpump with 82,000 miles as preventative maintenance?

Edited by kbrandsma
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Is it a good idea to run a 160 degree thermostat? What state do you live in as I doubt a California car would run well with one.

The 160F stat is an excellent mod for any state; out here we see temps ranging from 0F to 105F, and the unit is just fine. And, yes, the car will pass emissions.............

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The serp belt should have been replaced at 60k. If you are doing the thermostat, I'd replace the the waterpump, and belt if you are not positive it was done. I don't know that flushing the coolant is needed, sounds like you'll have it apart enought to just about completely drain it. You'll need two gallons of coolant and two gallons of distilled water to refill it.

Yes, I changed my serp belt myself at 62K . I might just do the waterpump and serp belt again while I'm at it.

Anybody have any thoughts on changing the waterpump with 82,000 miles as preventative maintenance?

Two thoughts: The pump isn't known to be a "survivor", and typically fails with little or no warning. Secondly, you will need to drain, refill and bleed the system a second time if the pump dies next week...........

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I'd do the water pump as above. My thought is to drain and replace coolant at two year intervals when I have it on a lift to flush the brakes. Overkill? maybe, but there is a herd of folks who bought the dexcool lifetime coolant line too. In Feb 2011 when I do the brake fluid, I intend to install a 160 thermostat and replace the water pump, regaurdless of milage. If I had read about as many of them failing I would have done it last year.

When it comes to thing like the waterpump, I'd rather replace it when I want to, not when I have to.

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I'd do the water pump as above. My thought is to drain and replace coolant at two year intervals when I have it on a lift to flush the brakes. Overkill? maybe, but there is a herd of folks who bought the dexcool lifetime coolant line too. In Feb 2011 when I do the brake fluid, I intend to install a 160 thermostat and replace the water pump, regaurdless of milage. If I had read about as many of them failing I would have done it last year.

When it comes to thing like the waterpump, I'd rather replace it when I want to, not when I have to.

We normally do not replace the coolant mix unless it has become contaminated or have a specific need to drain the system. As long as the mix looks good (clear with no suspended crud) and passes tests such as freeze point, pH, etc., it should be fine. Just be sure to use the OEM coolant (yes, it cost a bit more than the auto parts store stuff, but it has proven to last a long time, which the cheap stuff doesn't always do), and only mix it with distilled water (about a buck a gallon at the supermarket) and you will be fine for many years................

Edited by JFP in PA
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Oil heat Exchanger

Found one at Pelican Parts

part number:

996.107.025.57

price:

$151.75 plus shipping

I ordered the O rings as well. The next best price was $250.00 plus at Sunset, special order with a 1 week wait.

K:

How many O-rings are needed for the conversion to the "S" oil cooler? Part numbers?

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by 1schoir
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Oil heat Exchanger

Found one at Pelican Parts

part number:

996.107.025.57

price:

$151.75 plus shipping

I ordered the O rings as well. The next best price was $250.00 plus at Sunset, special order with a 1 week wait.

K:

How many O-rings are needed for the conversion to the "S" oil cooler? Part numbers?

Regards, Maurice.

There are four orings, two each of two sizes. Parts 999-707-409-40 and 999-707-389-40 come to mind, but you better check those with a the parts department as the very early cars also used one other number.

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Oil heat Exchanger

Found one at Pelican Parts

part number:

996.107.025.57

price:

$151.75 plus shipping

I ordered the O rings as well. The next best price was $250.00 plus at Sunset, special order with a 1 week wait.

K:

How many O-rings are needed for the conversion to the "S" oil cooler? Part numbers?

Regards, Maurice.

Seven (7) total parts ordered. I'll know more after I finish the install.

996-107-025-57-M6 - Oil Heat Exchanger - $ 151.75

999-707-409-40-M17 - Rubber o-ring - .75 each - 2 needed - $1.50 total

999-707-389-40-M100 - Rubber o-ring - $1.00 each - 4 needed - $4.00 total

I hope this helps!

Edited by kbrandsma
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Oil heat Exchanger

Found one at Pelican Parts

part number:

996.107.025.57

price:

$151.75 plus shipping

I ordered the O rings as well. The next best price was $250.00 plus at Sunset, special order with a 1 week wait.

K:

How many O-rings are needed for the conversion to the "S" oil cooler? Part numbers?

Regards, Maurice.

Seven (7) total parts ordered. I'll know more after I finish the install.

996-107-025-57-M6 - Oil Heat Exchanger - $ 151.75

999-707-409-40-M17 - Rubber o-ring - .75 each - 2 needed - $1.50 total

999-707-389-40-M100 - Rubber o-ring - $1.00 each - 4 needed - $4.00 total

I hope this helps!

I've seen some part guys do this in the past, what they have given you is every possible o-ring combination available. This way, you are guaranteed to have a set that will work (the very early cars had an adaptor plate that went between the cooler and the block, necessitating additional o-rings). As the o-rings sell for a few cents each at retail, giving you all of them is cheap insurance against not having the correct set, but the cooler itself only uses four o-rings........

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I installed the oil heat exchanger today. It took four O rings.

The green ones are the smaller ones part # 999-707-409-40-M17

The black ones are larger and came in a package of 4 but only 2 were needed, part #999-707-389-40-M100

IMG_3794.jpg

You can see the difference between the 986 oil heat exchanger and the 986S one.

IMG_3797.jpg

To install you have to:

Drain water from engine block

I drained my oil and changed the oil filter

Place top in service position

Open engine compartment

Remove air tube from throttle body and air box

Remove J tube

Detach throttle body and place aside (good time to clean it)

Take care in removing vacuum tubes one on each side

Remove oil heat exchanger - 4 torx screws

Replace O rings

Install new 986S oil heat exchanger (tighten to 7lbs torque)

Installation is the reverse of removal

fill radiator

fill oil

Finished installation

IMG_3817.jpgIMG_3813.jpg

Edited by kbrandsma
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I replaced the water pump and installed the TSTAT 160 today.

The water pump has seven bolts and two of the bolts are slightly longer than the other five. The bolts at 3 and 10 o'clock are the longer ones. Bolts are tightened to 7 ft-lbs. Photo below shows improved design. Less plastic and more metal in the turbine. I installed the pump from inside the cabin. With 2 bolts removed from underneath. I removed the passenger seat and opened the engine access panel behind the seats. Read Pedro's garage for some additional info and another way to remove the water pump from below the vehicle. I decided not to follow that route. I also replaced the serpintine belt at the same time.

IMG_3799.jpg

Here is another shot of the new water pump.

IMG_3800.jpg

I also installed the LN Engineering T160 termostat. Everything inside engine was pristine clear as you can see from the photo below.

IMG_3802.jpg

There are four bolts and was very easy to install. I also replaced several hoses and clamps. The three I replaced are the main ones that leave the engine; TSTAT hose (1 Y that connects to a couple of smaller hoses) and the two main hoses that route to the radiators up front. Here is a shot of the TSTAT 160 and the OEM one.

IMG_3804.jpg

I also clean the engine compartment. I followed Orient Express's lead and used a spray bottle with 1/4 Simple Green and 3/4 water. I sprayed then let it soaked. Rinse and sprayed again. Then used a couple of terry cloths and wiped everything reachable downed. Sprayed again and repeat. Just like your hair shampoo.

IMG_3807.jpgIMG_3811.jpgIMG_3809.jpg

Edited by kbrandsma
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And how does the car feel now after its recent surgery? New oil, coolant, cooler and T'stat - should be running a fair bit better now......

Six months ago I did everything you did except change out the water pump as I had only completed 40,000 miles.

Plus a few weeks ago I added the Raby Flat6 under drive pulley which really added the cherry to the top.

Edited by Steve Tinker
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I received the new painted GT3 Bumper back from the paint shop today. I also had them repaint the hood, the little piece that covers the rear spoiler and some speed humps I found on Craigslist over the winter.

I finished installing the third center radiator and cleaned up the side radiators and AC condensors as well as the air scoops and front wheel liners. I checked the system for leaks using the Airlift tool from Uview and refilled the car with 50/50 antifreeze/water mixture.

IMG_3829.jpg

Here are some photos of the finished center radiator after the installation.

IMG_3834.jpg

IMG_3832.jpg

IMG_3836.jpg

Here is the before picture with the stock OEM bumber.

IMG_0715.jpg

Here is the new bumper primed but not painted yet

IMG_3772.jpg

Here are the photos after installing the new bumper

IMG_3841.jpg

IMG_3844.jpg

Edited by kbrandsma
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K:

Nice work, and nice way to freshen up your Boxster!

Did you use all new parts for the center radiator install?

If so, do you have a complete parts list?

Did you use Pedro's copper Y tube solution or use stock parts? Again, part numbers and source would be appreciated.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by 1schoir
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