Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Here is a tip on how to completely flush / refill your cooling system using a simple shop vacuum.

To drain your system, first open both large and small tubes underneath the car, next to transmission and then connect a shop vacuum to the tubes to completely empty the system.

To flush your system, should you want to do it, connect your shop vacuum to each tube and use your hand to inspect where the suction is. Then pour 1 liter of clean battery water or such from a bottle into a tube where suction exists. Just make sure you do not suck any dirt or your gloves in the system.

To refill a completely drained system, first top off your coolant tank. You'll notice that you only get around half of the fluids in. Then connect shop vacuum to the larger tube underneath the car, next to transmission. Please watch your coolant level on the tank at the same time when you first activate your shop vacuum. You will see that the vacuum will suck level down pretty quick, only let the shop vacuum run for a second or so depending on how powerful vacuum you have. The point is to refill your coolant tank before the level drops too low and you get air in your system. Repeat this process of activating shop vacuum for a second and topping off your coolant tank as many times as you can. After around ten vacuum runs, you'll notice that you have filled over 20 liters to the system, still missing a few liters. Then open the clip on the coolant cap to relieve pressure, start the car, let the pump run and refill rest of the couple liters slowly, no CEL light or low coolant warnings should occur.

At least for me this trick worked fine and the whole process was easy.

post-93239-0-04107900-1400059535_thumb.j

Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

    • By Philip54
      The red light on the coolant temperature gauge of my car occasionally (but in recent times more frequently) flashes slowly (0.5 Hz).
       
      In a post dated 7/30/2018 Loren listed four conditions for the light to come on.  The two conditions for which the light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) are the following:
       
      Engine coolant too low
      Engine compartment temperature too high
       
      None of these conditions applies to my car.
       
      The light comes on after about 20 minutes of driving and it seems to be triggered (but not always) by running the engine above 4,500-5,000 RPM (with coolant temperature at normal values and, I assume, engine compartment temperature also at normal values.  This is not driving in heavy traffic, this is normal out of town driving ).
       
      Using  the Porsche tester it was possible to establish that the engine compartment fan works.  However,  it does not come on when I drive the car in traffic and the coolant temperature gets to 215F.  This, I would assume, should cause the engine compartment temperature to become elevated and the fan to run.
       
      The engine compartment sensor, located on the passenger side intake manifold, is installed properly  and seems to read the temperature of the engine compartment correctly.
       
      Any thoughts on what is going on?
       
      Thanks
       
    • By Philip54
      When we replaced the coolant in my car in 2013, we used coolant Porsche part number  ‘000-043 -301-05-M100’(pre-mixed).  The color, based on a little quantity left in one of the 2013 bottles, was red. The coolant in the car seems yellow now.
      I have just topped off the coolant today, using Porsche coolant part number  ‘000-043 -305 15’, red color (I mixed it with water, 50%).
      Could somebody please confirm that the 2 coolants are compatible?
      Thanks
    • By TechSavvySam
      I'd appreciate a second set of eyes to verify these part numbers.  
      2003 C2 6MT
       
      Red Arrow: 996-106-233-56
       
      Green Arrow: 996-106-212-61
       
      Yellow Arrow: 996-106-222-67
       
      I'm least sure of the 3rd one but it looks like they simplified it for the Mk2 but didn't bother to update the Illustration because one end of this has 2 connections in the illustration but mine doesn't and the picture on Pelican Parts looks like mine, so I think I'm right.
       
      Thanks for the help!

    • By Garra671
      Recently I had been noticing issues with my cooling system the coolant temp guage would go past the 0 on 180 and I wouldn’t hear fans or anything. (Already tested fans and resistors and relays).   The temperature Will continue to creep up if I sit still, with no signs of fans, AC OFF.

      I replaced the coolant temp sensor. Problem fixed!! Then same issue again it seems after a week of driving.  

      Now i currently have ordered another temp sensor just Incase I maybe did something to cause the other new one too fail, I’ll be changing it again today.

      However I was doing the climate control hack to check my actual temperatures today while doing a short troubleshooting drive. And I noticed my oil temperature said 0, which is physically impossible 🙄


      Is it possible the oil temp guage is throwing off the coolant sensor?    Is it even possible for the oil temp sensor too go bad but not the oil level sensor? (They are a 2 in 1 sensor)   

      THANK YOU IN ADVANCE
    • By Rubensdw
      Hi all, 
      This will be my first post, thanks for a great forum ! 

      I've recently purchased a exhaust system from Design911 in the UK which has the valvetronic function on. This is said to replicate the PSE which my car does not have factory installed. 
      Wired it up and put the vacuum hoses, tested the system and it works fine.

      Over to the issue for my car:
      When starting up the car, the neutral positon of the valves is open, which means a lot of noice from the exhaust. 
      When switching this by the solenoid, sending vacuum into the system and the valves closes. This means less sound. 
      But when the valves is closed the car wont run properly at the RPM range of 5500-7000 RPM's there is also fault codes for misfire on cylinder 2.

      The strange thing is that this works perfectly when the valves is open. I've tried two differnet vacuum sources, into the ressonator and also for the left hand side cooling system vacuum solenoids. Without any differnce. I tried to run vacuum directly to the vacuum actuators on the exhaust without any difference and also tried manually applying vacuum and using a one way check valve to keep the vacuum while not connected to the cars vacuum line. No vacuum leaks, no fault codes when driving with the valves open.

      Same result every time. So have anyone had some similar issues to their car ? 
      Thanks in advance for any help ! 

       
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.