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The red light on the coolant temperature gauge of my car occasionally (but in recent times more frequently) flashes slowly (0.5 Hz).
In a post dated 7/30/2018 Loren listed four conditions for the light to come on. The two conditions for which the light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) are the following:
Engine coolant too low
Engine compartment temperature too high
None of these conditions applies to my car.
The light comes on after about 20 minutes of driving and it seems to be triggered (but not always) by running the engine above 4,500-5,000 RPM (with coolant temperature at normal values and, I assume, engine compartment temperature also at normal values. This is not driving in heavy traffic, this is normal out of town driving ).
Using the Porsche tester it was possible to establish that the engine compartment fan works. However, it does not come on when I drive the car in traffic and the coolant temperature gets to 215F. This, I would assume, should cause the engine compartment temperature to become elevated and the fan to run.
The engine compartment sensor, located on the passenger side intake manifold, is installed properly and seems to read the temperature of the engine compartment correctly.
Any thoughts on what is going on?
When we replaced the coolant in my car in 2013, we used coolant Porsche part number ‘000-043 -301-05-M100’(pre-mixed). The color, based on a little quantity left in one of the 2013 bottles, was red. The coolant in the car seems yellow now.
I have just topped off the coolant today, using Porsche coolant part number ‘000-043 -305 15’, red color (I mixed it with water, 50%).
Could somebody please confirm that the 2 coolants are compatible?
I'd appreciate a second set of eyes to verify these part numbers.
2003 C2 6MT
Red Arrow: 996-106-233-56
Green Arrow: 996-106-212-61
Yellow Arrow: 996-106-222-67
I'm least sure of the 3rd one but it looks like they simplified it for the Mk2 but didn't bother to update the Illustration because one end of this has 2 connections in the illustration but mine doesn't and the picture on Pelican Parts looks like mine, so I think I'm right.
Thanks for the help!
Recently I had been noticing issues with my cooling system the coolant temp guage would go past the 0 on 180 and I wouldn’t hear fans or anything. (Already tested fans and resistors and relays). The temperature Will continue to creep up if I sit still, with no signs of fans, AC OFF.
I replaced the coolant temp sensor. Problem fixed!! Then same issue again it seems after a week of driving.
Now i currently have ordered another temp sensor just Incase I maybe did something to cause the other new one too fail, I’ll be changing it again today.
However I was doing the climate control hack to check my actual temperatures today while doing a short troubleshooting drive. And I noticed my oil temperature said 0, which is physically impossible 🙄
Is it possible the oil temp guage is throwing off the coolant sensor? Is it even possible for the oil temp sensor too go bad but not the oil level sensor? (They are a 2 in 1 sensor)
THANK YOU IN ADVANCE
This will be my first post, thanks for a great forum !
I've recently purchased a exhaust system from Design911 in the UK which has the valvetronic function on. This is said to replicate the PSE which my car does not have factory installed.
Wired it up and put the vacuum hoses, tested the system and it works fine.
Over to the issue for my car:
When starting up the car, the neutral positon of the valves is open, which means a lot of noice from the exhaust.
When switching this by the solenoid, sending vacuum into the system and the valves closes. This means less sound.
But when the valves is closed the car wont run properly at the RPM range of 5500-7000 RPM's there is also fault codes for misfire on cylinder 2.
The strange thing is that this works perfectly when the valves is open. I've tried two differnet vacuum sources, into the ressonator and also for the left hand side cooling system vacuum solenoids. Without any differnce. I tried to run vacuum directly to the vacuum actuators on the exhaust without any difference and also tried manually applying vacuum and using a one way check valve to keep the vacuum while not connected to the cars vacuum line. No vacuum leaks, no fault codes when driving with the valves open.
Same result every time. So have anyone had some similar issues to their car ?
Thanks in advance for any help !