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Any C2 or C2S 6-speed owners care to share what they paid for a clutch replacement... with or without flywheel? Indie versus dealer? Anyone get less than 30,000 miles or more than 40,000 on a clutch? 

 

I am assuming that the C2 and C2S have identical transmissions and clutches--that assumption may be wrong. 

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How do you know you need a clutch?

I got 135,000 plus miles out of the clutch on my last Porsche and that included track time and at least 12 autocrosses per year.

It all comes down to driving properly and not using it for a torque converter (IMHO).

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Replaced the clutch, release bearing and slave cylinder on my 2007 C2S at 32800. Bought the car new and I am the only driver. Normal city and highway driving daily.

I am not sure which part went bad, the mechanic's note stated the bearing and slave cylinder were damaged. Had the clutch set changed since they were in there.

I learned to drive on a truck with three on the tree and have been driving manual transmission cars for forty years so I don't think it was user error that caused the problem.

Anyway the dealer nailed me for 1400.00 US.

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Interesting allenone20. Your mileage seems to fall in the usually reported range for a 997--i.e. 30,000-40,000 miles for a clutch. I have limited experience with a "three on the tree" but have accumulated about one million miles of manual transmission mileage and have never(!) replaced a clutch in any vehicle--street or track. My 8V GTI and Audi 80Q made it a combined 250,000 miles with their factory clutches. 

 

I need to better understand the 997 clutch design as mine seems to get a little warm and smelly from what I consider to be slight "abuse".

 

$1400 is less than a local indie shop quoted, was that a while ago? Your flywheel was either good to go or resurfaced I presume?

...j

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Interesting allenone20. Your mileage seems to fall in the usually reported range for a 997--i.e. 30,000-40,000 miles for a clutch. I have limited experience with a "three on the tree" but have accumulated about one million miles of manual transmission mileage and have never(!) replaced a clutch in any vehicle--street or track. My 8V GTI and Audi 80Q made it a combined 250,000 miles with their factory clutches. 

 

I need to better understand the 997 clutch design as mine seems to get a little warm and smelly from what I consider to be slight "abuse".

 

$1400 is less than a local indie shop quoted, was that a while ago? Your flywheel was either good to go or resurfaced I presume?

...j

Please note that all standard Carrera 997 have a dual mass flywheel which may not be resurfaced to prevent any imbalance between the two flywheel masses.

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Hi there,

I have a different car, but maybe not a totally different experience?

When I bought my 2003 Porsche 911 C4 Cab in Seattle, WA on 02-08-2014, the clutch/flywheel had just been replaced on 01-26-2014 and I don't know why.

The car had 67,168 miles.

It was done at a relatively reputable, independent Porsche fix-it shop and was done with OE parts, I looked up all of the part numbers and they checked out. This is directly from the invoice. 

Flywheel $850.55

Clutch Kit $777.79

Flywheel Bolt $15.36

Labor $863.12

 

You could always look up the OE parts online and price them. That might give you a ballpark?

 

Hope this helps!

Julie

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Please note that all standard Carrera 997 have a dual mass flywheel which may not be resurfaced to prevent any imbalance between the two flywheel masses.

RPM, are you saying that the 997.1 C2S has a different clutch than a "standard" C2? If so, is it still a dual mass type that cannot be resurfaced?

j - 78,000 miles on my '06 C2S still going with the original clutch.

Cheers,

Johan

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78,000 miles... now that's more like it Johan!

 

My C2 has 34,000 miles on it. The clutch engagement is smooth and lockup is firm. Pedal travel feels great. I've not owned a rear-engined car before, maybe the light odor that I notice when I park can be attributed to the proximity of my nose to the rear engine

? Probably not.

 

1953 XK120... Nice. Did it have skirts?

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Please note that all standard Carrera 997 have a dual mass flywheel which may not be resurfaced to prevent any imbalance between the two flywheel masses.

RPM, are you saying that the 997.1 C2S has a different clutch than a "standard" C2? If so, is it still a dual mass type that cannot be resurfaced?

j - 78,000 miles on my '06 C2S still going with the original clutch.

Cheers,

Johan

 

 

No dual mass flywheel should be resurfaced.  If it is beat up, it needs to be replaced.

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BTW you should buy the clutch on Ebay.  They are selling the complete Sachs clutch kit for less than many Porsche parts suppliers can buy them.  It seems that some direct distributors are selling them online cheaper than they are selling to their vendors.

 

Here is an example   Ebay has Sachs clutch kit for just under 500 and Pelican is almost 850 ( Vertexauto is listing it over $100 less than Pelican). 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SACHS-OEM-CLUTCH-KIT-2005-08-Porsche-911-997-Carrera-S-/230513661688?fits=Make%3APorsche&hash=item35abaf56f8&vxp=mtr

 

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/0951/POR_0951_TCLUTC_pg1.htm#item0

 

http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/286598%20Porsche%20997%203%20Piece%20Clutch%20Kit%20-%20Sachs.aspx

post-6367-0-09984600-1429878963_thumb.jp

Edited by Porschelibrarian
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I've had a wide range of manual transmission cars and trucks. Ford van, Pontiac Trans Am, Volkswagen Beetle.  Usually what goes is the release/throwout bearing or the pressure plate. I've even had shift linkage break. Normally the clutch plate itself is fine, with minimal wear, but since I'm in there I might as well change it out too.

In the case of my Carrera S, I think it was the slave cylinder that failed first and that damaged the bearing. The clutch itself was fine. The pedal feel when it failed was unlike any other car I've had. I was exiting the highway and when I engaged the clutch it was so heavy I had to use my whole body to push the pedal down. When I lifted off the engine revved but the car hardly moved. There was no grinding you would hear from a bearing gone bad. I nursed the car home, the next morning called the tow truck and had it hauled into the dealer for repair. 

I applaud you all who have long lasting clutches. maybe it's my driving style, but I've always believed the best gear change is one that you or your passenger never feels. Regardless of how easy or hard you are driving.

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j_beede, 

can you find out which bearing you have from your VIN? I found out that mine is a single row bearing on the class action lawsuit list.

You would think so mdragon.... I can find out if my VIN is part of the class but whether my bearing is the smaller, LN replaceable one or the larger non-replaceable style can only be determined via visual inspection for MY05 997. That requires the transmission be dropped. Might as well do the clutch while we're in there.

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BTW you should buy the clutch on Ebay.  They are selling the complete Sachs clutch kit for less than many Porsche parts suppliers can buy them.  It seems that some direct distributors are selling them online cheaper than they are selling to their vendors.

 

Here is an example   Ebay has Sachs clutch kit for just under 500 and Pelican is almost 850 ( Vertexauto is listing it over $100 less than Pelican). 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SACHS-OEM-CLUTCH-KIT-2005-08-Porsche-911-997-Carrera-S-/230513661688?fits=Make%3APorsche&hash=item35abaf56f8&vxp=mtr

 

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/0951/POR_0951_TCLUTC_pg1.htm#item0

 

http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/286598%20Porsche%20997%203%20Piece%20Clutch%20Kit%20-%20Sachs.aspx

Please note that the 3.6 and 3.8 have different parts numbers. The Carrera S is cheaper than the 3.6 at Pelican. Go figure.

Johan

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I would also shop around, looking at the LUK product line (an OEM Porsche supplier).  I have seen reports of online purchases from other auto suppliers for as little as $350 for a new pressure plate and disc.

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BTW you should buy the clutch on Ebay.  They are selling the complete Sachs clutch kit for less than many Porsche parts suppliers can buy them.  It seems that some direct distributors are selling them online cheaper than they are selling to their vendors.

 

Here is an example   Ebay has Sachs clutch kit for just under 500 and Pelican is almost 850 ( Vertexauto is listing it over $100 less than Pelican). 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SACHS-OEM-CLUTCH-KIT-2005-08-Porsche-911-997-Carrera-S-/230513661688?fits=Make%3APorsche&hash=item35abaf56f8&vxp=mtr

 

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/0951/POR_0951_TCLUTC_pg1.htm#item0

 

http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/286598%20Porsche%20997%203%20Piece%20Clutch%20Kit%20-%20Sachs.aspx

Please note that the 3.6 and 3.8 have different parts numbers. The Carrera S is cheaper than the 3.6 at Pelican. Go figure.

Johan

 

I gave that as only one example of the wide range in prices for the identical parts.  The one that started the thread has a 997.1 so that is what I answered specifically.  And since I have PET 7.3 U366/94 I am quite aware of the part numbers, uses, etc. 

 

 

 

So to paraphrase Seinfeld " NO PET FOR YOU!"

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I think we have a mix of professional mechanics and "lay people" in these forums... Are you guys suggesting a DIY clutch job or are you suggesting I buy clutch parts to deliver to the mechanic?

 

I have tools for racing karts and motocross (easy access, light weight) but haven't gone beyond superficial auto repair (e.g. brake rotors, pads, starter, alternator). I have a floor jack and stands. No hoist/lift. Should I even consider doing my own clutch? 

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I recommend you buy the clutch kit complete, save a couple hundred and have a professional do the job.  As to whether you should do the job yourself.. answer one question.... Would you drop your engine or transmission from your car yourself?  And do you have the complete WSM for the 997?

 

If you need the Porsche WSM or PET or .. send me a PM

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J- as you can see, there is great ongoing support. I tackled the clutch issue a couple of years ago and it was through this forum, no- that should read, because of the dedicated enthusiasts on this forum that I was able to successfully tackle the clutch issue in my garage. Just read the continuous ( and almost instant) guidance that I received from members such as loren, JfP and logray.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/43715-clutch-aos-water-pump-thermostat-diy-questions/#entry234912

Cheers,

Johan

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I think we have a mix of professional mechanics and "lay people" in these forums... Are you guys suggesting a DIY clutch job or are you suggesting I buy clutch parts to deliver to the mechanic?

 

I have tools for racing karts and motocross (easy access, light weight) but haven't gone beyond superficial auto repair (e.g. brake rotors, pads, starter, alternator). I have a floor jack and stands. No hoist/lift. Should I even consider doing my own clutch? 

If you can follow instructions either in manual form (WorkShop Manual) or web pages (and there are many with good step by step images) and you purchase a good set of tools you can do it yourself.  You'll need quailty tools: torque wrench, fly wheel lock or wrench, clutch centering tool, a hydraulic jack to hold the engine in place, a transmission jack and time.  If you take it to a shop, you'll spend 1,000 on labor so go figure the time vs. all the fun you'll have asking questions to this group.  The work itself is very time consuming but not complicated.

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