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By Mark Stubbs
Hi guys.Finnally got the Boxster on the road after an enforced year stood.It sounded a bit rattly when I started it up.I have done about 50 miles in it since all short journeys, and it still making the same noise.Not knowing much about these engines not sure if it's something more serious than tapped, alternator bearing???.Im not driving it and will get it recovered to an Indy for assessment, so any suggestions will be gratefully received. Hopefully other club members will chime in.
By Christiaan Poortman
Hello, I'm new on this forum and stumbled upon a new problem (or old) with my 2.5l 986 Boxster from 1997.
The problem occurs when the engine is started dead cold after sitting a few hours/overnight.
Engine starts immediately but the RPMs start to surge / hunt between 1100 and 700 RPM. This continues for about 10 seconds after which the idle smoothes out to the normal cold idle RPM.
The first pull away requires a tad more throttle then normal to prevent stalling. After this first pull, everything is almost normal and engine performance becomes better and better. When the engine is hot, the idle sits at 780 RPM with a minor fluctuation now and then (seems to be more than normal)
I've been to two shops (official Porsche dealer and local Porsche specialist). Porsche dealer couldn't find anything and the specialist found the camshaft sensor on the left bank to be unplugged - but now comes the strange thing - the cabling is nowhere to be found!!!!!!? Took the car home to check myself but didn't find anything.
No camshaft related codes to be found in the diagnosis and no CEL either.
Attached one pic showing the sensor and it's missing plug
Could someone help me out? - Is it possible for the engine not to throw a CEL when sensor is disconnected? - where is the sensor wire to be found?
The car has been awesome 2006 987.1 30k miles. The other day i took it for a drive and stopped after about 150 miles for about 30miins when I came out, all my coolant was on the floor. I refilled the coolant and constantly checked the temperature, initially it edged up to 180F but then settled back down to 175F and stayed that way all the way home. I was driving gently and kept cheeking the coolant level. Since then I found that I needed to open the coolant needle valve and drive around for 3 or 4 days to bleed the cooling system. I'm on day 2 and the coolant level has gone down slightly. Whenever I stop I check the floor and there has been no coolant leak.
I am baffled, anyone seen this before?
My A/C has been getting warmer over the last week to the point of just warm air. The compressor is engaging as I can see, hear, and watch the tach drop slightly as it does. I figured it just needed a quick recharge, but the low side pressure is ridiculously high at 90psi. Before I go and pull the world apart does anyone have experience with this scenario? Does this point to a bad compressor or Refrigerant Control Valve? I'm not really finding anything in the search dialog.
I have a vacuum and used it on other cars, but have never seen this "overcharge" high pressure issue. I guess I'll try to lower the pressure first, but I have my doubts it will fix anything.
Thanks in advance for any input.
Hey everyone, i own a 2010 porsche Boxter 2.9L with the PDK transmission.. yesterday after leaving the car for a 4 days i started it and went for a drive.. when i turned it on again, i got a warning message “emergency transmission run” and the car became very jerky through gearshifts and wouldnt accelerate properly.. after turning it on and off the message went away and it drove just fine but then it kept re-appearing mid drives and becomes very jerky and clunky...ive noticed since i had the car that the gearbox was sometimes clunky or would make a noise when changing gear but the dealership said that was fine and normal since its a PDK, the car is at 59,000km so its time for a transmission fluid change... could this be a low voltage problem, or transmission fluid? The reverse gear works just fine.. has this happened to any other owners?