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Brake/Clutch Fluid Change and Bleeding Instructions


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Gus,

what he means is to close the valve more if you see a lot fo bubbles. I used to do the same mistake and would go through 2+ bottles of fluid for every bleed. If you see a lot of bubbles, close the valve then open the with only 1/4 turn. The bubbles should now be the ones in the system only

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View this tutorial Brake/Clutch Fluid Change and Bleeding Instructions Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supp

Thanks to the RennTech DIY instructions and others on this board, I bled my brake fluid today. The instructions were very helpful. Here are a few other tips I can pass along to anyone else who plans

I'll add a key point to keep in mind: the bleeder valve CAN introduce air into your drain tube when the fluid is flowing! This will give the appearance of air coming out of the caliper when in fact it

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Gus,

what he means is to close the valve more if you see a lot fo bubbles. I used to do the same mistake and would go through 2+ bottles of fluid for every bleed. If you see a lot of bubbles, close the valve then open the with only 1/4 turn. The bubbles should now be the ones in the system only

Thanks Izzy,

I will follow your suggestion.

Best,

Gus

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  • 5 weeks later...

hi, noob here. love all the diy articles. very interested on this particular one on brakes.

just have one question, does the motor have to be running when bleeding the brakes?or doesn't really matter running or not? TIA

jose

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  • 1 month later...

No... do not run the motor while flushing.

Question for Loren... I have the Motive bleeder and a Longacre Racing plastic catch bottle (with a cool magnet to hold it against the calliper body) that has dual tubes that attach to both inner and outer bleeders. I opened them together while bleeding, instead of doing the outer then the inner bleed. Is that acceptable? Thanks.

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No... do not run the motor while flushing.

Question for Loren... I have the Motive bleeder and a Longacre Racing plastic catch bottle (with a cool magnet to hold it against the calliper body) that has dual tubes that attach to both inner and outer bleeders. I opened them together while bleeding, instead of doing the outer then the inner bleed. Is that acceptable? Thanks.

Probably. You can test it by doing opening both as you describe then going back and doing each one individually and seeing if there still are bubbles.
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  • 1 month later...

Hi ..

I've done this a few times now with success but does anybody know the actual amounts required to flush each section of the pipework / calipers ?

I have used about 1L in the past but this time I got a lot more out the resevoir to start - so ended up using 1.5L as folows :-

1. 500mL : Extracted from the resevoir before starting (using a syringe and length of plastic pipe to suck out as much as I could via the small holes after taking out the filter)

2. 150mL : Rear Left, Inside Nipple

3. 150mL : Rear Left, Ouside Nipple

4. 150mL : Rear Right, Inside Nipple

5. 150mL : Rear Right, Outside Nipple

6. 100mL : Clutch

7. 75mL : Front Left, Inside Nipple

8. 75mL : Front Left, Ouside Nipple

9. 75mL : Front Right, Inside Nipple

10. 75mL : Front Right, Outside Nipple

The reason I went with only 150mL for the each front is because that's all I had left ! :(

Do you think this is enough ? Should I get another 500mL and do the fronts again ?

The brake pedal feels excellent now but I'm concerned I've just pushed the old fluid into the calipar (fronts) and the fresh fluid is in the pipework ...

PS - This is Motul RBF660 for tracking (taking her on the Nurburgring again in a few weeks ..) so keen to have optimal brakes !

Thanks all,

Richard.

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Not that I can think of other than the rear wheel will be next to some hot parts (mufflers, heat shields, etc.)

Thanks Loren. :renntech:

jose

Edited by SHEEP
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  • 4 weeks later...
So, is the bleeding procedure incompletely done if the ABS pump is not bled? Does the car have to go to the dealer anyway, to hook it to the PIWIS for ABS bleed? If the ABS has to be bled, any way to do it without the dealer or a PIWIS?
Most dealers do not both to bleed the ABS unless the system has been open (i.e. lines or components replaced).

I have a PST (and PIWIS) and and I usually do not bleed the ABS on my own car.

Uh oh, I've got my wheels off now and about to replace my brake lines with braided DOT approved stainless lines (Pelican parts). From your post it sounds like I am going to need to take the car to the stealer for the ABS bleed if I replace the brake lines. True?

Jeff

BTW, these Pelican parts are supposed to be for 996 but they are all the same length and from just eyeballing them they look too long for the rear brake lines (and Ive got a MY '00 Cab4... wonder if my rear lines are shorter than a regular C2?). Anybody done this mod before? Comments?

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Richard,

You could alternate between blue and gold ATE fluid when you do your bleeds. That way you'll know for sure when your new fluid makes it to your calipers.

Jeff

Hi ..

I've done this a few times now with success but does anybody know the actual amounts required to flush each section of the pipework / calipers ?

I have used about 1L in the past but this time I got a lot more out the resevoir to start - so ended up using 1.5L as folows :-

1. 500mL : Extracted from the resevoir before starting (using a syringe and length of plastic pipe to suck out as much as I could via the small holes after taking out the filter)

2. 150mL : Rear Left, Inside Nipple

3. 150mL : Rear Left, Ouside Nipple

4. 150mL : Rear Right, Inside Nipple

5. 150mL : Rear Right, Outside Nipple

6. 100mL : Clutch

7. 75mL : Front Left, Inside Nipple

8. 75mL : Front Left, Ouside Nipple

9. 75mL : Front Right, Inside Nipple

10. 75mL : Front Right, Outside Nipple

The reason I went with only 150mL for the each front is because that's all I had left ! :(

Do you think this is enough ? Should I get another 500mL and do the fronts again ?

The brake pedal feels excellent now but I'm concerned I've just pushed the old fluid into the calipar (fronts) and the fresh fluid is in the pipework ...

PS - This is Motul RBF660 for tracking (taking her on the Nurburgring again in a few weeks ..) so keen to have optimal brakes !

Thanks all,

Richard.

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  • 5 weeks later...
So, is the bleeding procedure incompletely done if the ABS pump is not bled? Does the car have to go to the dealer anyway, to hook it to the PIWIS for ABS bleed? If the ABS has to be bled, any way to do it without the dealer or a PIWIS?
Most dealers do not both to bleed the ABS unless the system has been open (i.e. lines or components replaced).

I have a PST (and PIWIS) and and I usually do not bleed the ABS on my own car.

Uh oh, I've got my wheels off now and about to replace my brake lines with braided DOT approved stainless lines (Pelican parts). From your post it sounds like I am going to need to take the car to the stealer for the ABS bleed if I replace the brake lines. True?

Jeff.....did you get an answer to your question? I'm going to take the four Calipers off and paint them so I need to know if I will need to take my car to the Dealer? I guess the main question is - What will happen if one takes a part off of the brake system and then bleeds everything except the ABS system??? Thanks, in advance, for any input.Jeff

BTW, these Pelican parts are supposed to be for 996 but they are all the same length and from just eyeballing them they look too long for the rear brake lines (and Ive got a MY '00 Cab4... wonder if my rear lines are shorter than a regular C2?). Anybody done this mod before? Comments?

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  • 4 months later...

Jeff, So sorry to have missed your question. Loren told me that I probably wouldnt need to worry about bleeding the ABS. How did your painting project work out?

So, is the bleeding procedure incompletely done if the ABS pump is not bled? Does the car have to go to the dealer anyway, to hook it to the PIWIS for ABS bleed? If the ABS has to be bled, any way to do it without the dealer or a PIWIS?
Most dealers do not both to bleed the ABS unless the system has been open (i.e. lines or components replaced).

I have a PST (and PIWIS) and and I usually do not bleed the ABS on my own car.

Uh oh, I've got my wheels off now and about to replace my brake lines with braided DOT approved stainless lines (Pelican parts). From your post it sounds like I am going to need to take the car to the stealer for the ABS bleed if I replace the brake lines. True?

Jeff.....did you get an answer to your question? I'm going to take the four Calipers off and paint them so I need to know if I will need to take my car to the Dealer? I guess the main question is - What will happen if one takes a part off of the brake system and then bleeds everything except the ABS system??? Thanks, in advance, for any input.Jeff

BTW, these Pelican parts are supposed to be for 996 but they are all the same length and from just eyeballing them they look too long for the rear brake lines (and Ive got a MY '00 Cab4... wonder if my rear lines are shorter than a regular C2?). Anybody done this mod before? Comments?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Loren,

Are these procedures apply to 997 C2S 2006 ? I have 25K miles and need to replace the brake fluid now. Where is the site to buy the power bleeder ? Is there a pressure unit you can apply compressed air instead of pumping ?

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Hi Loren,

Are these procedures apply to 997 C2S 2006 ? I have 25K miles and need to replace the brake fluid now. Where is the site to buy the power bleeder ? Is there a pressure unit you can apply compressed air instead of pumping ?

Yes, you can use the same process.

I would not use compressed air - you do not need much air pressure - less than 20 PSI.

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I'm bleeding my brakes on my 2003 Boxster S for the first time. Using the Motive power bleeder and bottles, everything in general is going well except......I noticed the brake fluid reservoir is now slowly leaking fluid from the bottom. I did not exceed 20 psi using the power bleeder. Any thoughts? Is there a way to tighten it? I hope I don't have to flush all my new fluid out, as I usesd Motul 600, and it ain't cheap.

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I'm bleeding my brakes on my 2003 Boxster S for the first time. Using the Motive power bleeder and bottles, everything in general is going well except......I noticed the brake fluid reservoir is now slowly leaking fluid from the bottom. I did not exceed 20 psi using the power bleeder. Any thoughts? Is there a way to tighten it? I hope I don't have to flush all my new fluid out, as I usesd Motul 600, and it ain't cheap.

It just sits in two rubber(like) gaskets.

post-1-1239492932_thumb.png

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I'm bleeding my brakes on my 2003 Boxster S for the first time. Using the Motive power bleeder and bottles, everything in general is going well except......I noticed the brake fluid reservoir is now slowly leaking fluid from the bottom. I did not exceed 20 psi using the power bleeder. Any thoughts? Is there a way to tighten it? I hope I don't have to flush all my new fluid out, as I usesd Motul 600, and it ain't cheap.

It just sits in two rubber(like) gaskets.

post-1-1239492932_thumb.png

Yes....I see those and that appears to be where the leak is. After several hours of sitting, it does not appear to leak. But if I take it out for a drive, there are a few drops of fluid underneath the reservoir. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Kevin

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I'm bleeding my brakes on my 2003 Boxster S for the first time. Using the Motive power bleeder and bottles, everything in general is going well except......I noticed the brake fluid reservoir is now slowly leaking fluid from the bottom. I did not exceed 20 psi using the power bleeder. Any thoughts? Is there a way to tighten it? I hope I don't have to flush all my new fluid out, as I usesd Motul 600, and it ain't cheap.

It just sits in two rubber(like) gaskets.

post-1-1239492932_thumb.png

Yes....I see those and that appears to be where the leak is. After several hours of sitting, it does not appear to leak. But if I take it out for a drive, there are a few drops of fluid underneath the reservoir. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Kevin

Well, it is most likely either a cracked reservoir or bad gasket. Chances are you will need to take it off to inspect it.

I use a large hypodermic needle to withdraw the brake fluid and put it a clean container so it can be reused.

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Thanks Loren. I bet I cracked the reservoir when I was connecting/disconnecting the bleeder. It's not mounted in a very sturdy fashion, and I probably tried a little to hard to prevent air leaks by torquing the cap to much. Guess that's a lesson for the future: be sure I support the reservoir with one hand while removing the cap with the other. I didn't realize it was that delicate. Hope they will sell me the reservoir without buying the entire master cylinder.

Kevin

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Thanks Loren. I bet I cracked the reservoir when I was connecting/disconnecting the bleeder. It's not mounted in a very sturdy fashion, and I probably tried a little to hard to prevent air leaks by torquing the cap to much. Guess that's a lesson for the future: be sure I support the reservoir with one hand while removing the cap with the other. I didn't realize it was that delicate. Hope they will sell me the reservoir without buying the entire master cylinder.

Kevin

Yes, they should sell you just the plastic part. About $40 MSRP as I recall.

Make sure you get the right one for your car because they are different.

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Thanks Loren. I bet I cracked the reservoir when I was connecting/disconnecting the bleeder. It's not mounted in a very sturdy fashion, and I probably tried a little to hard to prevent air leaks by torquing the cap to much. Guess that's a lesson for the future: be sure I support the reservoir with one hand while removing the cap with the other. I didn't realize it was that delicate. Hope they will sell me the reservoir without buying the entire master cylinder.

Kevin

Yes, they should sell you just the plastic part. About $40 MSRP as I recall.

Make sure you get the right one for your car because they are different.

Hey Loren - I cleaned up the brake fluid really good, and let the car sit Sunday and Monday. No leaks. I took it out for a drive (carefully) and did some hard braking. The brakes work great. And no leaks or drips, or even a hint of fluid leaking.

The only thing I can think of is this: When the reservoir was pressured up by the power bleeder, I hit or twisted the reservoir, hard enough for some fluid to squirt out by the gaskets for a moment. Is this possible? Does the reservoir just sit in the gaskets, it's not bolted or screwed on?

Thanks,

Kevin

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Thanks Loren. I bet I cracked the reservoir when I was connecting/disconnecting the bleeder. It's not mounted in a very sturdy fashion, and I probably tried a little to hard to prevent air leaks by torquing the cap to much. Guess that's a lesson for the future: be sure I support the reservoir with one hand while removing the cap with the other. I didn't realize it was that delicate. Hope they will sell me the reservoir without buying the entire master cylinder.

Kevin

Yes, they should sell you just the plastic part. About $40 MSRP as I recall.

Make sure you get the right one for your car because they are different.

Hey Loren - I cleaned up the brake fluid really good, and let the car sit Sunday and Monday. No leaks. I took it out for a drive (carefully) and did some hard braking. The brakes work great. And no leaks or drips, or even a hint of fluid leaking.

The only thing I can think of is this: When the reservoir was pressured up by the power bleeder, I hit or twisted the reservoir, hard enough for some fluid to squirt out by the gaskets for a moment. Is this possible? Does the reservoir just sit in the gaskets, it's not bolted or screwed on?

Thanks,

Kevin

That is correct - it is not bolted on just the gaskets.

I would just check it daily for a week or two and if the fluid level stays up and there are no leaks - then chances are you just momentarily broke the seal.

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