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This DIY tutorial covers how to remove the intake manifold on the 3.6L V6 Cayenne. Removing the intake manifold gives you access to several parts of the engine that you may need to service. Disclaimer: Perform at your own risk. This is for reference only, I am not responsible for any damage/injuries that may occur from this procedure. Please do not attempt if you are not comfortable with doing work on your car or working around the fuel system. Work in a well ventilated area as you will be releasing a small amount of gas and fumes. Difficulty: 5/10 Estimated Time: ~2 hours If you’re getting a Durametric error code P0674, you likely have a bad PCV valve that needs to be replaced. An easy way to test a bad PCV valve is to unscrew the oil fill cap on the engine while it is idling. If you feel suction on the cap and/or the idle fluctuates once the cap is removed then your PCV valve is bad. The PCV valve is built into the valve cover so your options are to buy a whole new valve cover assembly (95510513500- ~$347) or buy just the PCV membrane (aftermarket $20-25) and replace it in your existing valve cover. To get access to the valve cover, you will need to follow this DIY article to remove the intake manifold first. Other reasons to remove the intake manifold are to service your fuel injectors or to make it much easier to replace the thermostat. The thermostat can be changed without removing the intake manifold (I did it twice), however you basically need to be a contortionist to reach the bolts to remove housing and you will scrape some knuckles along the way. Tools Needed: -Flathead screwdriver -Assortment of torx bits (T20, T25, T30, 6” long T30) -Pliers -Torque Wrench -3/8” ratchet set with various extensions and a universal joint -1 1/16” Deep socket -10mm Triple Square Spline Bit -Crescent Wrench -9/16” Open End Wrench -Dental pick Parts Needed: -Brake Booster Vacuum Hose- 95535557941 (your existing hose is probably brittle and will likely crack from removing it, I recommend getting a new one) -Lower Fuel Injector Seal Kit (3X) - 95511091000 (existing seals may be brittle and once you have removed the intake manifold, they may not seal properly upon reinstallation, I recommend getting new ones, need 3 sets) Procedure: First start by removing the plastic covers surrounding the engine. Using a flathead screwdriver, remove the quarter turn plastic trim fasteners. Rotate them in either direction by 90 degrees and pop them out. Be ready to catch them as sometimes they like to jump out. Next you will need to remove the 2 torx screws on either side of the engine cover with a T25 bit and the screw under the windshield washer reservoir cap with a T20 bit. Remove the oil fill cap and front engine cover by pulling straight up. They are held on by friction rings around a stud so pulling straight up will release it. Now that you have the covers removed, it’s time to remove the intake filter box and intake piping. Using your T25 torx bit, rotate the 2 screws until the dot on the screwhead lines up with the lower indication on the filter cover. Now gently use your pliers to pull them straight out. With your flathead screwdriver, pop up the two clips to release the filter housing. Pivot the filter house towards the passenger side of the car and remove it. Remove the engine air filter as well. Next, remove the wiring harness from the MAF sensor located in the middle of the intake piping. Loosen the clamp around the intake piping on the throttle body and gently work the intake piping back and forth until it releases from the throttle body. Remove the top bolt on the engine lift bracket and loosen the lower bolt with your M10 triple square bit. Then pivot the bracket towards the front of the car. Remove the bolt next to the throttle body with your M10 triple square bit. Then unplug the wire harness from the throttle body. Remove the top bolt from the bracket on the passenger side of the engine with your M10 triple square bit. Remove the vacuum lines from the intake manifold on the passenger side of the engine. One hose requires pliers to open the hose clamp, the other can be removed by hand if you squeeze the lock ring around the hose to release it. Next, from the passenger side, reach your hand around to the back side of the engine. There is a vacuum line that goes from the bottom surface of the intake manifold to the brake booster. You will need to pull the vacuum line fitting straight down to pop it out of the intake manifold. I don't have a good picture of it so here is a diagram of it. Pull down on the elbow fitting, not the hose. Also on the back side of the engine just behind the vacuum line you removed there is a bolt that needs to be removed using your M10 triple square bit. You are working blindly so locate the bolt first by feel and guide your bit to the bolt. Remove the 3 screws holding the actuator with a T25 torx bit. Slowly pull it straight out towards the front of the car. There is an actuator arm that attaches to a shaft on the passenger side of the part. Once you have enough clearance to reach your finger in there, you need to slide the arm off the shaft as you pull the entire actuator off. Then disconnect the vacuum hose from the actuator. Now pull the coolant hoses out of their holder in the intake manifold and push it towards the driver side of the car. There is a T25 torx screw that attaches this water hose bracket near the back of the intake manifold. The screw is facing up, so you need to use your T25 torx bit and get creative with removing that screw. I used a crescent wrench to turn the torx bit while holding the torx bit in place with my other hand. With the water hose bracket free, slide the water hose bracket towards the front of the car to release it from the intake manifold. This bracket has a keyhole slot that will release once it's slid forward. Remove the oil dipstick tube bracket with a T25 torx bit. Just push it out of the way once you remove the screw. With your long T30 torx bit, remove the bolt on the intake manifold that was under the actuator. Next, there are 3 blind holes on the driver side of the intake manifold. You need to use your long T30 torx bit to loosen the screws inside those holes. Those 3 screws are captive screws so they will not come out. There are 3 bolts below the intake runners. They need to be removed with your M10 triple square bit. This is where your universal joint will come in handy. The bolt near the rear of the engine required me to use my u-joint with various entensions to acess. At this point, you will hear gas leaking out. Since you have released the pressure from the lower fuel rail to the lower fuel injectors, the pressurized gas in the rail will leak out. Make sure you are working in a well ventilated area. From the driver side of the car, reach behind the engine to remove the wire harness from the fuel pressure sensor. Using your 1 1/16” deep socket, unscrew and remove the fuel pressure sensor. Using your 9/16” open wrench, unscrew the nut that connects the metal fuel line running from the lower fuel rail. The slimmer your wrench the better. My crescent wrench did not fit here. Now that the intake manifold is completely unbolted, you can start to wiggle it free. You will need to lift the manifold up from the passenger side and pivot it up towards the driver side. You will need to wiggle the lower fuel rail loose to release the metal fuel line you just unscrewed the nut from. It is a flare fitting that pushes into the upper fuel rail assembly. Be gentle here as you don’t want to bend the fuel rail. Once the metal fuel line is free from the upper assembly, you can remove the intake manifold as described above by lifting up from the passenger side first to pivot it off. At this point, you have access to the fuel injectors if you need to service them, the thermostat housing and the valve cover. Unbolting the valve cover is straight forward from here if you need to replace the PCV valve, etc. The fuel injector seal kit comes with a rubber o-ring, Teflon o-ring, Teflon sleeve and metal clip. At the bare minimum you should replace the rubber o-ring and Teflon o-ring. Use a dental pick to remove the old o-rings. These 2 parts are the wear surface when you remove/reinstall the intake manifold and are prone to fail if you re-use them. Trust me, I learned the hard way. To install the intake manifold, reverse the steps above. Take care in sliding the lower fuel rail back onto the lower fuel injectors and lining up the metal fuel line back into the flare fitting. I found it was easier to pull the lower fuel line out of the manifold to line the flare fitting up first, then pushing it into place in the intake manifold. You want to apply even pressure on the surface as you tighten all 7 of the bolts down on the driver side. Torque the 3 triple square bolts evenly to 6 ft lbs, torque angle 90 degrees, then a final torque of 22 ft lbs. The bolts holding the engine lift bracket are 17 ft lbs, the other triple square bolts holding the manifold on the head are 15 ft lbs. Once you get it all back together, turn the key to the ON then START position without your foot on the brake. This will run the fuel pumps to build pressure back up in the fuel rail. I removed the key and repeated 2-3 times to get the fuel pressure up. The first time you restart, it may take a couple seconds to fire up due to the fuel pressure needing to build back up. If you replaced your PCV valve, it may idle rough as the ECU needs to remap since it adapted to a leaking PCV valve over time. If you did not replace the fuel injector seals and smell gas/hear it leaking after shutting off the engine, then your seals failed and you need to repeat the procedure and replace those seals.

Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. (Special thanks to Chuck Jones for being the guinea pig and for taking the photos.) Parts you will need: 997.624.113.00 Actuator Tools you will need: Very short Torx T20 driver and right angle ratchet or tool to use the short T20 in a very confined space Regular screwdriver, phillips screw driver, and 10 mm wrench to remove th wheel well liner 1. Jack the car so that right front wheel is off the ground and secure it with a jack stand. Remove the right front wheel. 2. Remove the wheel well liner by removing the the plastics rivets (pry them out with a regular screwdriver). As well remove the 10 mm nuts on each side of the axle. Now remove the phillips screws that fasten the wheel well liner under the front bumper and remove the wheel well liner (and set aside). 3. Locate the EVAP canister and remove the electrical connection at the top of the canister. Now remove the 10 mm nut that holds the canister in place. Remove gas the vapor lines - one at the top and one at the bottom (again by squeezing the connectors). Remove the EVAP canister by pulling gently back and forth until it releases from the rubber gromments 4. Look back up under the fender (now that the canister is out of the way) and locate the broken actuator. Now using the stubby Torx T-20 loose (but do not remove) the two T-20 screws. The actuator itself is a bit tough to get to and you will need a really short T-20 Torx head to loosen the two screws. I say loosen because that is all you need to do to remove the part - it sits in two "U" shaped slots. Remove the electrical connector (by squeezing the tab). Here is a pic of the new part - as you see the Torx screws are already in place so that is all you have to do to replace it. 5. Put the new part in place making sure you feed the emergency pull line through the fender to its location in the door jam. There is room to slide it through the side so you don't need to try and thread it through the hole. Fasten the two Torx screws and reconnect the electrical connector. Chuck's car had the guide rose guide piece missing (so he needed to order one) Here is a pic of his car (without guide rose) and my car (with guide rose). Ref. P/N 997.624.505.00 We also noticed that on his car the plastic catch for the lock was missing (so he needed to order that too). Here is a pic of his car (without cap) and my car (with cap). Ref. P/N 996.201.243.00 6. Reinstall the EVAP canister by pushing it into place on the rubber gromments. Then reattach the vapor lines (they should snap back into place) and the electrical connection. Finally put the 10 mm nut back in place and tighten down. 7. Reinstall the wheel well liner (reverse of removal). 8. Mount the tire, lower the car and re-torque the wheel bolts. Done.

It seems that there are more and more cases of these faults appearing, and as some of our cars are reaching 10-12 years old, it is hardly surprising. I've compiled this information from past personal experience on both of my 996s, reading about others on here and other forums, referring to the workshop manual and wiring diagrams, and applying some logic. Hopefully you might find it useful, and save some grief when troubleshooting. DOOR MICROSWITCHES There are seven microswitches in each door which control the alarm system. Two are separate switches: a] One on the outside door handle. This switch is used to sense that the handle is lifted. b] One on the inside door handle, which has the same function. When the car is unlocked and either handle is lifted, this signals the alarm control module (ACM) to lower the appropriate window by 10mm, and turn on the interior lights. As soon as the door opens, another switch inside the door lock (explained later) tells the ACM that the door is open, which holds the window down until the door is closed, when the window is raised, and the dimming timer on the interior lights is started. Once the car is locked, the outside handle switches are ignored by the ACM. The remaining five switches are inside the door lock assembly: c] One switch senses if the door is open or closed. d] One senses that the key has been turned to the 'lock' position. e] Another senses that the key has been turned to the 'unlock' position. f] One senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'lock' position. g] Another senses that the door lock motor has reached the 'unlock' position. TYPICAL FAULTS All these microswitches can be problematic, and it is common for one or more to fail at some time. These are some of the common failures and symptoms: 1) The door window won't drop when lifting a handle. This is usually the handle microswitch which has failed. 2) The window drops, but goes back up when the door opens, or when the handle is released. This can be the handle microswitch, or more likely the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) has stuck. Because the system thinks the door is still closed, it sends the window back up. 3) Door window won't go up the last 10mm. This is likely to be the 'door open/closed microswitch' ( c ) stuck in the opposite sense to (2). The system thinks the door is still open, so won't allow the window to go back up. Note that in this case the door will still lock, but you may get a single-beep from the alarm horn. 4) Door will not lock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (d) is broken. This is very rare, as this microswitch is hardly ever used – most times the car is locked by remote. 5) Door will not unlock with key. The 'key lock' microswitch (e) is broken. This is also very rare, for the same reason. 6) Door locks, and then immediately unlocks, usually accompanied by a double-beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door locked' microswitch (f). The locking motor physically operates the door lock, but the microswitch to sense this has failed/stuck. The ACM promptly unlocks the car. In this case, the only way to lock the door is to use the emergency locking procedure. Turn the key in the door to the lock position and back three times in quick succession. 7) The door unlocks, but there is a beep or double-beep from the alarm horn. This is the 'door unlocked' microswitch (g). Although the door is unlocked, the ACM has not recognised that. The alarm will not sound, as turning the key in the lock has deactivated it. FIXES The inside and outside handle microswitches are available separately, and are not too expensive. Although alternative equivalent switches may be available, the genuine Porsche switch comes with a connector and wiring, so it makes sense to use an original. Part Numbers: Inside handle microswitch: 996.613.123.00 (Same both sides) Outside handle microswitch: 996.613.125.00 (Left) / 996.613.126.00 (Right) The door lock microswitches are not available separately. You have to buy the complete door lock assembly, at a cost of around $120. It has been known for people to repair the offending switch though. This is a picture of a typical failure of a 'door open/close' microswitch (courtesy of another RennTech member): You can see that the plastic plunger has broken, jamming the switch lever inside. These switches are (apparently) made by Burgess, but as yet the source and part number are unknown. There are several other similar standard switches on the market for around $2, and people have stripped down the new switch and rebuilt the old one with the plunger from the new one. OTHER SWITCHES IN THE ALARM SYSTEM The other switches and contacts in the alarm system are to monitor the lid closures: Front lid microswitch Rear lid microswitch Oddment compartment microswitch Glove box microswitch Radio contact (to detect radio theft) An open compartment or switch failure will cause a single-beep of the alarm horn on locking. A system error will cause a double-beep. Other elements of the system include an interior monitoring sensor (in the overhead lighting), an alarm readiness light (on the dashboard in the centre) and a central locking button (on the dashboard). Options are a tilt sensor (next to the battery or under the left-hand seat) and an alarm siren (next to the battery).

EDIT: Additional info added at bottom of tutorial, refers to recently found info, clarifying how many different fluids are needed for the 970 generation of Panamera PDK (at end of tutorial). Attached is a DIY for changing fluid on Panamera PDK transmission. Got this from a fellow forum member who happened to do the change. This should help many interested in doing maintenance on Panamera without paying thousands for it. Speaking to shop/dealer, after 60k, filter/pan replacement not absolutely necessary (cost of the kit is about $350). So for 60k, drain and refill fluid is fine. At 120k, you would do same fluid change, but this time replace the pan/filter as well. Read the entire DIY before you start to get a good idea of requirements and estimate time involvement for you to complete. Do not forget to replace the drain plug with its built in seal. Last thing you need is have a $15 part cause small leaking, and then have to put car up, open up drain plug, lose a bunch of expensive oil, just to put new drain plug in. So dont cut on this one part. You can get the Pentosine FFL3 PDK fluid directly from Porsche, or from Pentosine resellers. Porsche will charge you triple the price for identical fluid. You choose. Everything you need is mentioned in the DIY. Since Durametric does not have capability to monitor PDK temperature yet, you can use an IR thermometer, when you heat up the PDK to 40 celsius, after you put in 6-8 quarts or so, and when doing final level check. Good luck. 970 generation Panamera PDK transmission info: ZF is manufacturer of PDK transmission for Porsche They make 2 PDK transmissions One for mid & rear engine applications (911, boxter, etc) Another one specifically made for the Panamera Panamera PDK servicing requires two (2) fluids only (as compared to 3 fluids in other PDK car models at Porsche FFL3 fluid - Gearbox & clutches - need about 9 quarts Shell TF0951 - Front final drive - need about 0.4 quarts Here is the info dug up from ZF on this topic: "In fact, two separate DCT ranges or 'platforms' have been developed by ZF, both fitted with wet clutches, for use in Porsche's various longitudinal applications. The first is for use in the mid- and rear-engine sports cars (the 911, the Cayman and the Boxster), while a completely different platform has been developed for use in the larger Panamera. For each platform, two different torque options are available, with the 500N.m versions using an 'ND2015' clutch pack, and the 780N.m versions using an 'ND2216' clutch pack, both supplied by ZF Sachs....... In terms of the oil circuit itself, two completely different approaches have been employed for the two platforms. Non Panamera models: The 7DT45 and 7DT70 have two oil circuits, and hence two different oils; the first is Pentosin FFL-3 for the clutch and hydraulics, and the second is ExxonMobil Mobilube PTX 75W-90 for the gear-set and bevel gear. The oil levels have been kept as low as possible, to reduce churning losses for those moving parts that are immersed in oil. Panamera: Conversely, the 7DT75 has a single oil circuit and a dry sump (to minimize churning losses), with an 'active lubrication system' to feed oil to each gear-set and clutch. This version uses only the Pentosin FFL-3 lubricant, which was developed exclusively for the ZF DCTs. One of the main reasons for using a single oil circuit is that clutch cooling is required at both ends of the transmission, for the main dual-clutch module and for the hang-on clutch used in the four-wheel-drive variant. This would have presented significant sealing complications had multiple circuits been chosen." Bottom line: What this means is that the Panamera PDK uses transmission design which uses one fluid compartment for the gearbox and the clutches, and another separate compartment for the final drive. Two fluids total.

After this I hope we will not see any more posts about 'I took the Panamera to the dealer to replace the cabin filter'. Makes my eyes water thinking how easy it is to do on your own. If you really have too much money, send me some (I can pm you my paypal id), and/or you can send some dough to contribute to this forum. Come on, if you can afford $250 for cabin air filter change, you can support us here. Just follow each pic from 1 to 10. All needed is your fingers, but in case you do not like using your fingers, get some soft plastic pry tool. Good luck.

I got sick of not having cupholders in my Boxster. So I set out to find some. The options seemed to be OEM cupholders, either the clip on type, or the single DIN type. And we all know the problems with those - not secure enough fit, not accommodating large cups, etc. Also, the DIN type takes up an entire vertical DIN slot, making fitting double DIN GPS impossible. Other solutions seem to be to use a cutout for cups in the centre console box - which means the lid needs to stay open; and "ultimate cupholder" - which doesn't look OEM at all. So I was searching for generic cupholders on Ebay, and found this: http://cgi.ebay.com....=item439b780b6e And from a seller, the dimensions are: 7 7/16" long by 1" just the cover lid, assembly is 7" x 4 3/4" The width is as close to OEM fit for the Boxster as it gets, for a non-Porsche part! So I bought it. Realising that late model VWs like Passat and Jetta has the same console width as our Boxster, I then bought this: http://cgi.ebay.com....=item3ca672b7af It's entirely possible that other units like this http://cgi.ebay.com....=item3356ef534c would also fit. And before you start, get a rotary tool (like a Dremel). It's an absolute god send! Made things so easy. Here is the unit: Compared to another double DIN unit I originally planned for the mod: The difference is the newer one has a hi res screen. I actually rather liked the volume knob on the low res one. I put the cupholder and GPS unit together, with double sided tape, like this: You can also mount the cupholder on top, like this: I chose to go with the bottom fit, because I don't really like cups placed that high, and the bottom fit actually takes up a few mm less in height, which gives a better fit in the horseshoe frame. Speaking of frame, it's cut up, like this: There was a lip on the inner aspect of the lower border, this was cut to make room to increase the height. This, together with some slight sanding of the bottom of the cupholder was all that's required to make the height of the combo fit just right. Incredibly lucky! Note, you must get rid of the lower lip much as you can. Or the cupholder would be clamped too tight between the frame and the GPS, and it doesn't open when clamped tight. In the above picture, you can see I turned the OEM metal bracket around. This was necessary as the cupholder doesn't extend as deep as the OEM stereo, so the bracket support needs to come forward. You need to drill a hole in the original bracket to allow this. The reason will be very apparent when you actually do this. Here is a close up of the reversed bracket: The GPS antenna is simply placed near the alarm cover. Remove the alarm cover first, thread the GPS wire through, then just fish for it through the horseshoe frame. No need to remove anything else to place the GPS antenna. The thick wire attached to the GPS wire is the loom for my Head-Up-Display (another mod, for another day) :) The rest of the wiring here, with the unit ready to be pushed in: Here is the test fit: You can see that I will need a "n" shaped bezel to fill out the gap. This was obtained by modifying the Passat bezel that came with the GPS. The width is an exact fit, just like the cupholder (maybe 1mm longer, but I just left it). So I just sanded down the top border of the frame. And cut off the bottom border. I don't have a picture with the bottom border removed, only with the thinned top border: Press it in, it's a snug fit, not even sticky taped. And voooowwlaahhh!!!! OEM look!! From afar: With cupholder open: With a large "cup": In summary, get a genuine Jetta cupholder and an aftermarket Passat double DIN GPS! (not affliated with the seller/s, I promise) :)

If your battery is dead and you need to get into the front trunk, it may be necessary to locate the manual pull wire to open the front trunk and get to the battery. This might be more difficult to locate the first time. You may not be in a good location to wrestle the right front tire splash guard to find it. It might be night time or you may not be dressed in the correct clothes to be down by the tires trying to locate it. I would recommend that you take the time to locate it in good weather and in the comfort of your garage or better yet re-route the wire to the front bumper behind the plastic plug the hides the location for the tow fish eye bolt. To get started I removed the carpet liner in the front trunk. The front trunk liner is made up of 2 sections and I only had to remove the front section. There was one thumbscrew clip on the passenger side and one thumbscrew clip opposite on the driver's side. Also on the driver's side there was one snapin clip and 2 additional snapin clips located in the front of the trunk. All five clips are very easy to find and remove. I then removed the plastic trim directly on top of the front trunk latch and microswitch. There are 4 screw plugs and you simply turn the plastic plugs 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn: I then removed the passenger side head lamp by using the tool in the Boxster tool kit. The kit is usually located near the spare tire in the front trunk. Turn the wrentch about 1/2 turn counter clockwise to unlock the headlamp. Slide the head lamp out. You may have to jiggle it a little but it should slide out with very little effort. Once the light is out you will be able to locate the pull wire. It is clamped into a lasso at the end. In the photo below you can see it at the end of the red arrow. The red oval in the top of the photo is the plastic wheel splash guard. The passenger front tire is directly behind that. Some recommend to access the pull wire from the tire side but that is a little more difficult and you still have the problem of trying to re-rout the wire up to the front bumber. Doing it from the head lamp side makes it easy. Here is another photo with my finger pointing at the pull wire. Remove the front bumper plastic cover that hides the tow plug. I used a plastic upholstery tool and the plastic cap popped right out. The plug has a fishline wire connected to it to prevent you from losing it. Use the light from a flashlight to guide you (from the front bumber side) and re-route the pull wire from the headlight to the tow plug. Having the top plastic guard off makes this very easy. Tuck the pull wire back in and re-insert the pastic bumber plug. Reassembly is just the reverse. Slide the headlamp back into the guides and push it home, use the wrentch and turn clock wise. you will hear a loud pop when the headlamp is secured. You know have easy access to the emergency pull wire.

Symptom: Your LCD display inside your instrument cluster is very dim, or was dim before, but now you cannot see anything at all on it. So you are left with only the analog dials (needles) to rely on, for information. This prevents you from accessing settings for the car. This DIY will help you fix this issue. Most of the time, the issue is a transformer located on the main board of cluster, that becomes defective. Remedy is to replace it. Below info will show you every step of the way, from trim removal, taking cluster apart, doing solder rework and putting it all back together. Pictures are very self explanatory. I just completed this, after collecting information from multiple sources. Collected so that one can do it all from one place. Hope this helps. Do yourself a favor, review entire DIY before you start, so you know what you will need, what you will need to do, etc. PART INFO: Ordered from: http://www.keyecu.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=3003&search=A44002 Ordered from this place for $25.90 plus about 23 bucks for shipping. If you plan to replace both transformers (one for LCD, another for analog dials brightness), order two and replace both. If you are not sure you can tackle this, get someone that can solder. Good luck.

I did this one a little while ago, but never had time to get these organized into a tutorial for others. Here it is. Comments are in each pic, for each step to do. Each picture is numbered in the order to be done. Hope this will help you make the replacement easier (especially if you are new to doing such work).

Please see PDF attachment for procedure 987.1 Bumper Removal Procedure.pdf

Having wasted too much time determining what could be done to replace the Becker CDR23 in my 2004 Boxster 986S I have decided to provide a comprehensive document which may be helpful to others. I am currently an automotive engineer, but previously I was an audio engineer, so I understand both sides of this equation. Becker CDR23 Replacement.pdf

Please refer to this thread on Rennlist : Then the details are: This applies to the Porsche M96 with Variocam. Later Variocam Plus is not quite the same. This is a WIP that I hope others will improve. The info is gleaned from dozens of posts which I have used to put the basics in one place. Now it is your turn to improve it, add photos , links and most important – corrections . Here is my related Thread: Check the engine diagram to get the correct terminology.Confusing a Variocam actuator with a Chain Tensioner is a common mistake. When in doubt use Porsche part numbers only. Diagnosis: Without Durametric or PIWIS you will not be diagnosing.You will be guessing. Beware of cheap Fleabay knock-off cables. They run very old ,often corrupted versions of the software. This causes misdiagnosis or failure to actuate components. They have no Tech Support.A very expensive mistake to make.Pelican sell the genuine Durametric cable. Make sure you don't have other faults caused by old O2 sensors ,old plugs, vacuum leaks. Check Coil ground for 1.2.3 on the 6mm stud near the AOS is good. Clear all codes. Durametric at idle produces no codes. Increase idle speed to 2000 rpm and the 1341 reappears. This is the target identified.But the big diagnostic problem that I never solved is how to distinguish between a failed solenoid and a failed actuator without taking the cam cover off and more. Using the Durametric cable, “ACTUAL ANGLE” for Bank 1 shows no advance - a flat line or lots of small oscillations but never reaches a # near 25 degrees. Bank 2 shows 25 degrees and deviation is rock steady and within limits(6 degrees). This is the general target confirmed. Without Durametric at this stage ,you were lost ! You clear the codes and at idle activate (with Durametric) the solenoid for Bank 2 .Hear the change in engine sound? Yes. Try same on Bank 1 – no change - double confirmation. Seems like the Variocam solenoid is not functioning or the actuator ,or both ? Or the wiring or the DME. Some expensive components here so let’s do some tests. Tests: You will need to make some test cables to use in each of the tests below.AS noted below you can hack some male & female Bosch EV1 connectors to fit.I made dedicated test cables for each test to avoid the risk of arcing between probes or alligator clips. The man problem is access. On a Boxster, Bank 1 is the worst. 1. Disconnect the plug for the variocam solenoid. Test the solenoid - you are looking for approx..13.5 ohms across the 2 contacts (not to chassis ground!). 2. At the mating part of the solenoid wiring connector use a MultiMeter on the 20V scale. Connect ONLY between the 2 contacts. Do NOT connect to chassis ground. You are looking for around 10.5 volts (assuming a fully charged battery) . Yes one of the contacts is battery voltage and the other is a switched (3v)ground via the DME – but that is needlessly complicated to get into at this stage.Just look for 10.5 volts. If you get no reading - is the engine up to full operating temperature? 3. With the engine warm & idling , connect the solenoid contacts via a 12v battery (from a cordless power tool?) The engine note should change because you are advancing the valve timing on only this Bank by 20 degrees. Remove the 12v battery connection. Engine reverts to normal idle. You can make the connector and leads from an EV1 connector if you cut back the shroud/casing.A word of caution about the polarity of the test connection directly to the solenoid. First -use a fuse in the test cable . Check Bentley for the wiring diagram and be very careful to follow the same polarity. In theory it should not matter but Porsche used polarized connectors ,so we should also? A related test without Durametric is to use the same 12v source to activate the solenoid with the engine OFF, in a very quiet workshop. If the solenoid is working you should hear a 'click' every time you press the MOM switch on the test harness.This is significant because you need to understand what makes the click sound . Is it the solenoid or is it the sound of the actuator moving the timing chain or both ? I ask this question because the solenoid on the suspect Bank passed the resistance tst with 13 ohms- identical to the perfect bank(2). But the external 12v source only producced a click on the perfect bank2). The same test on Bank 1 was silent. 4. Next connect an extender cable to the supply-side connector for the Variocam solenoid.This is the wiring loom that runs above Bank 1 and connects to the DME. The terminals are roughly EV1 size but the standard EV1 shroud is too large. I used the pins/connectors from an EV1 Bosch 1 287 013 003(female) and the corresponding male pins to make an extension. The male pins could be 'hacked' by removing one leg of a 'red' fork crimp connector. Run it to the driver’s seat area. Put a Noid bulb in it. Start the engine and run to 2000 rpm. Does the light illuminate? Instead of the noid light you could use a multimeter on the 20v DC scale - to see if it flashes 10+v? This might work ? Pelican Parts - European Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche • BMW • Mercedes • Volkswagen • Audi • Saab • Volvo • MINI Ahsai mentioned using a 12v 6w ‘peanut’ bulb instead.I used a Noid light because I had already made test harnesses thet acceted a Bosch Noid. By now you should know if the solenoid is defective or if there is a wiring /DME fault. One of the links below shows the culprit as a burnt transistor in the DME. But let’s say the wiring/DME test O.K. Note: I fabricated custom test leads for the MM to check supply voltage I also fabricated custom power jumper leads for the solenoid. These included a 10A fuse and an MOM switch. 5. There is one other very creative test kindly suggested by Jake Raby. Connect with a jumper between the 'good' bank and the suspect one.Be careful to follow the same polarity !! Consider using a fuse and MOM switch in the test cable you fabricate. Needless to say - check all your test cables for continuity before use and avoid crimp connectors - solder them ! It is a final, positive elimination of variables.This is a good test to indicate problems with the transistors in the DME(thank you Ahsai !). This would have been indicated in the prior test that measured for 10.5 volts at the Variocam connector from the DME. Note on the 5.2 DME - transistor and/or solenoid failures were more common for reasons unknown. There is so much work involved in getting to the defective unit that people often replace both the actuator and solenoid ,when only the solenoid was positively identified as defective. Conclusion: the solenoid &/or Variocam actuator are defective. Repairs This video on re-timing gives an idea of the access problems: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nE_X27JSTyE Now this gets expensive and time consuming. 2001 Porsche Boxster S Convertible - Camshafts & Timing Chains - Page 2 The solenoid needs to be replaced, or the actuator repaired or both. You need the special tool # 9624 /P253 to hold the cams in a safe position while you do this. Read the details elsewhere . Ignoring it may break a camshaft ! The link in French below(google translate) has the dimensions for the tool. I had already bought the complete Baum engine tool kit in a case. variocam - Tuto changement solénoid variocam On Bank 1 for the Boxster the access is so restricted some mechanics cut an access hole in the firewall of the trunk ! Certainly remove the wheel ,header, plates and anything that gets in the way ! Check elsewhere for the special sealant and gaskets required and the ‘while you are in there’ jobs like spark plug tubes/seals. Read Wayne's write up project again! This is the best write up/photo of timing the M96 by Insite, DIY: Setting Cam Timing on M96 Lock the engine with the 8mm bolt in the c/s pulley and lock the cam with the special tool 9624 or ‘French’ equivalent. Place all bolts carefully in a cardboard template (see French link again !) Some of the bolts are different lengths and if you muddle them you will be helicoiling! Remove cam cover. Note no gasket ! But a lot of sealant to remove with a PLASTIC scraper. Find the instructions on how to lay a bead no more than 2mm wide when replacing the cover. Use the correct sealant ! See Wayne’s article for more. Porsche Boxster Camshaft Upgrade / Chain Tensioner Replacement - 986 / 987 (1997-08) - Pelican Parts Technical Article 2001 Porsche Boxster S Convertible - Camshafts & Timing Chains - Page 4 Replacing the $200+ solenoid is now simple. Careful not to crimp the wires during reassembly. Now you can do a visual check of the actuator. Connect 12v to the solenoid contacts. Does the actuator jump about 1/8 “ ? Can you feel the click in the solenoid. So is the solenoid defective or the actuator? If you need to remove the actuator it gets more complicated. The actuator needs to be compressed a little to remove. In theory you can use 5mm x 0.8mm (verify !) threaded rod and deep nuts on the older Boxsters. The newer (post 2000?) changed to LEFT hand threads ! I found the necessary L.H. parts- Brass rod, L.H. die nut, L.H. nuts on EBay but waited for months for them to arrive from China ! In theory you can use high quality zip ties but access is so difficult that you may struggle to achieve enough compression of the actuator. Much easier with the engine on a stand ! On the bench you can repeat the test for the actuator and confirm with a new solenoid. If the actuator seems weak or can be easily compressed or is locked rock solid -it perhaps can be dismantled and cleaned- but I could find no info on this. If it has high miles it may be better to replace it ? If you are curious about repairing an actuator,no,it can't be done -see here: http://forums.quattroworld.com/a8/msgs/83599.phtml This is interesting because it hints at a diagnosis - an oscillating part that would produce an oscillating readout on the Durametric graph. It is a pity Audi actuators do not fit. They are $200 or less ! The part # for the complete assembly for Bank 1 is : 996-105-051-58 Bank 2 (4.5.6) is 996-105-053-58. Do not confuse - just 1 digit difference.Note - these numbers supersede prior lower numbers.Be careful to confirm if the actuator you buy does/does NOT include the solenoid. Some sloppy vendors list the part number for the combo actuator+solenoid but do NOT include a solenoid - if you study the very fine print in the parts diagram alongside their ad.Be sure you order correctly - these $1000+ parts are often not returnable ! Tests with the camshaft cover off Before you just replace parts here are a few tests to do. First watch a video to see what it should look like- start at 5minutes in this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ml5wltlM-cw Check for slack chains. It may be that the chain tensioner(not the Variocam actuator) has failed. If the engine has just been rebuilt, perhaps the new chain tensioner was not installed correctly. Use the solenoid test lead to make the actuator 'jump'. The actuator should jump in the direction of the crankshaft when you hit the Mom button on the test lead.At rest it moves the opposite direction.See video cited above. Suppose the Solenoid Passed the 13 ohms test, failed the click test and the actuator fails the visual test with the MOM switch. Which part has failed - the Actuator ,the Solenoid or both? Suggesting that you substitute a known good solenoid is probably impractical. You may have to just use probability and buy a new one and try it. If the actuator still fails to jump, even with a new solenoid, you are going to have to remove the actuator and test it on the bench. In theory you can try to purge the oil out of it and look for debris or blockage. But realistically ,after all this work it is probably better to just buy a new one.BTW the pin on the Solenoid should jump about1/16".

Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 3-4 liters 999 917 546 00 (Shell) Shell Transaxle (75W-90) or Mobil Mobilube PTX (75W-90) Approved Manual Transmission Oils 000 043 204 20 Mobil (Mobilube PTX) - 20 liter container 000 043 204 19 Shell (Transaxle) - 20 liter container 999 917 546 00 Shell (Transaxle) - 1 liter container Note: All are synthetic GL4 and GL5 rated (or "non-conventional processing") oils. GL oils have good light running properties because of their light low-temperature viscosity as well as a high level of temperature stability. Tools you will need: Tire ramps or jack 17 mm allen for the fill plug 16 mm triple square with a hole in the middle for the drain plug Note: Most later cars have an 10 mm allen type plugs - we recommend checking before you start. 3 quart oil catch pan Torque wrench (optional) Drain Transmission Oil Transmission oil should be changed when the engine/transmission has reached normal operating temperature. CAUTION - oil will be hot, take adequate precautions to avoid being burned. Use ramps or jack up the vehicle at the points provided. Remove underside panels to access the transmission. (Boxster owners you need to loosen the diagonal braces and then remove the transverse strut member. A little more work on a Boxster. When you put them back they need to have the bolts torqued to 48 ft lbs. (65 nm). See images Image 1 Image 2 Image 3 Image 4 Image 5 ) (images courtesy of scherb) Place oil collection pan under the transmission (at least 9 quarts). Always dispose of the waste oil in accordance with local legal requirements. Unscrew oil filler screw (1). Unscrew oil drain screw (2) and drain transmission oil. Wait about 20 minutes for all the old oil to drain. Fill Transmission Oil Clean oil drain and oil filler screw. Screw in oil drain screw. Tightening torque: 22 ft-lb. Fill with gear oil up to the bottom edge of the oil filler opening. Screw in oil filler screw. Tightening torque: 22 ft-lb. Install underside panels. Model/Capacity (approx.) Manual Transmission 911 Carrera (G96/00) - 2.7 liters 911 Carrera 4 (G96/30) - 2.7 liters GT3 - 3.3 liters Boxster (G86/00) - 2.25 liters Turbo - 3.0 (to 3.8) liters Front-axle Final Drive 911 Carrera 4 (Z96/00) - 1.5 liters Turbo - 1.5 liters

EDIT: Fixed text boxes to see text better. This is an AOS DIY that walks you through the process of replacing the AOS. This is for a 2000 996 C2 Cab, six speed. I tried to be as thorough as I could in writing the DIY. If there is something left out or lesson learned from your personal experience with the AOS and or this DIY, please let me know so I can incorporate it into the document. Regards, Ken How do you eat an elephant? -- One bite at a time! Air Oil Separator Replacement.pdf

Eureka! I suppose during the time you guys were typing, I was arriving at the same conclusion. I pulled the latch mechanism out and examined it up-close. The tension spring was out of a pocket on the latch and not providing any push when the latch was released. Hence, the hood could be pulled up out of 'battery' but would not pop up on its own. I disassembled the mechanism, lubed it, and re-inserted the spring into the latch. Put it back together and now all is well. Very simple to do. This is how I did it and you may find it useful. Do so at your own risk, yada yada yada. 1st, open the hood and peel back the carpet cover just inside of the latch. Next, using a flat-head screwdriver, remove the four plastic 'screws' holding the trim plate between the bumper and the hood flange. They merely turn 90 degrees (so that they are perpendicular to the car's direction of travel) and pop out. Then remove the trim piece and place to the side. Next, using a ten millimeter socket, remove the two bolts securing the latch to the car. They are located just inside the trunk under the carpet you just peeled back. Once they are removed, the latch is now only held in place by two metal cables and the alarm pin switch wires. Carefully unplug the alarm wires. Push in on a small 'latch' on the lower half of the plug and pull out the lower half. Then carefully rotate the upper half about 45 degrees (it should be fairly easy to move, don't force it) and the plug will pop out of the metal holder. Then use a small screwdriver to gently push a release clip on the plastic mounting point. This will allow the small plastic mount to separate from the wiring plug. Now you need to gently remove the cables from their sockets. Take the tension off of the upper cable and gently pull the cable up out of its socket. Then remove the lower cable in the same way. The only thing holding the latch in the car now is the alarm wiring harness. Push the rubber grommet through the body toward the bumper. You can then pull the wiring through and the entire latch will come out of the car. Be sure to set the stainless steel shroud to the side. It was not attached on my car but may be on yours. Now that you have the latch out of the car, you can see the large diameter steel spring that is wound around the large post to the passenger side of the latch. That is the culprit. The small plastic shroud over it pulled straight out and off of my latch. This is the microswitch that tells the alarm that the trunk is open or closed. Set it to the side. You should now see the latch mechanism and the hole that the spring needs to be in to function properly. I used two screwdrivers to push the other end of the spring (the end on the release / catch mechanism ) over the catch. This allowed me to push the end into the latch more easily. I then popped the spring back over the catch. Now there should be tension on both the latch and the catch. Lubricate with white lithium grease, or some other semi-solid lubricant and work the mechanism to ensure that it is functioning properly. Once you have confirmed proper function, reassemble in reverse order (i.e. put the alarm switch back on - it should snap right back in place ), pop the cable back on, thread the wiring through and secure the grommet in place, place the stainless shroud on, insert the bolts and loosely tighten things. Once the bolts are in, line up the hood and the latch mechanism and tighten down the latch. Replace the plastic bumper/body trim piece but don't insert the 'screws' until you've tested the hood a couple times. Once it is clear that the hood is functioning properly, secure the trim, replace the carpet and smile at a job well done, for free. If I can figure out how to transfer my pictures out of my camera phone I'll add some illustration to this. Hope this helps. I was frustrated as *)*^*( until y'all help me realize what the problem was. Pictures ...

In our modern litigious world, manufacturers have learned that they must advise the users of their product of everything that might hurt them by using the product no matter how stupid it is, so when the users do hurt themselves, blame the manufacturer, and demand compensation, the manufacturer can say they warned them. Thus everything these days from cars to coffee cups have warning stickers of some sort on them. So it is with airbags, and every car owner in the US is blessed with stickers on the sunvisor telling them to be careful. If you are like me, I got the message a while ago, and don't need to be reminded every time I pull down the sunvisor. So I decided to take the stickers off, and wanted to share my method of how I did it. The method I am describing will work with any sticker that is applied to a plastic or vinyl surface with the heat laminated decal process. This is what is used for the Porsche airbag warning label stickers. What you will need: 91% Isopropyl Alcohol – Common rubbing alcohol available from your local drug store. 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover Some paper towels Vinyl Protectant such as Meguiars NXT Cockpit Shine Sunvisors Time to remove the 2 stickers from a sunvisor: less than 30 minutes. Process: 1. While this process can be done with the sunvisors in the car, it is best to remove them and do the removal on a flat surface. To remove a sunvisor, no tools are required. Simply twist and pull the sunvisor off of its pivot arm. It will slide right off. 2. It is best to remove the vanity mirror and light assembly from the visor. This is because the alcohol can run down inside the sunvisor, and if it is left there, it can discolor the plastic. I also put a piece of paper towel inside the assembly to catch excess alcohol. 3. Take a piece of paper towel and fold it to the size the sticker that you are removing. Wet the paper towel with the alcohol and place it on top of the sticker and let it sit for at least 10-15 minutes. Keep the paper towel wet, but not too wet that the alcohol runs off of the paper towel. WARNING: Don’t use any solvent stronger than Isopropyl Alcohol. Stronger solvents will discolor the vinyl and plastic that the sunvisor is made of! 4. After 10-15minutes the sticker decal will have softened, and is ready for removal. Using your fingernail, gently loosen the sticker on one end, and start pulling it off. Patience is the key here. Take your time, and gently pull off the sticker in one piece. If it starts to tear, and is still sticking to the sunvisor, back off, put the wet paper towel back on, and let it soak some more. You are doing it correctly when you can pull off the sticker in one piece. 5. After you have the sticker off, there will be a gummy residue left on the visor. Use the 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover to get rid of that residue. When you can rub your hand or a rag over the sunvisor and it does not stick to it, you are done with that side. Because the decal is applied with heat, there is some distortion of the embossed grain on the vinyl side of the sunvisor. This will leave a faint outline of where the sticker was. Polishing the vinyl can minimize this outline. 6. Next do the other side, same process. 7. After you have removed the decals, and have cleaned the surface of residue, polish the visor with the Vinyl Protectant. 8. Put the vanity mirror back in the visor, and slide the sunvisor back onto its pivot rod. Step back and admire your work

This DIY is for the cayenne (year 2007, 9PA1) which has the stock reverse camera package. In case the stock reverse camera becomes faulty (like mine), this DIY is to replace it with an aftermarket reverse camera. Enjoy ! i compile them into a pdf file for easier reference. DIY Cayenne 2007-9PA1 Reverse camera.pdf

Here is a documented guide to overhauling the Boxster's speaker systems for improved sound. I did this for under $600, and the difference is astonishing. Covers front,rear, and door speaker systems. Well illustrated, and contains a detailed section dealing with updating the door speakers from 5 1/4" to to 6 1/2" drivers while maintaining a completely stock appearence. Hope this helps many a Boxster owner. First986NJ UPDATE 4/23/08: Wow, 2600 downloads - cool! Hi Guys, a couple of updates: 1) The article referrs MB Quart drivers being used. While these are fine drivers and many people like them, I found them a bit too bright for my tastes. My car now has Polk Audio db series drivers throughout (db651's in the doors and db401's in the dash) and I am even happier with the sound. I also eventually replaced the (4) 3 1/2" drivers in the PNP rear shelf kit with Polk Audio db351's and they improved the sound back there noticably. Infinity Kappa's were considered, and I listened to them, but I found the Polks slightly tighter sounding and so I went that way. The two were VERY close in both price and quality. 2) Something new on the door speakers......... Kicker has recently come out with a 6.5" sub that is perfect for the Boxster doors! It is a 6.5" CompVT Shallow Series Subwoofer, Frequency response: 25-350 Hz ,Sensitivity: 85 dB ,Impedance 4 ohms ,Peak Power Handling 300 watts ,RMS Power Handling 150 watts. Top Mount Depth is 2-13/16" and Cutout Diameter 5-9/16". Available at Crutchfield and Woofersetc.com. I have not yet put a set in my doors, but fully intend to very soon. Andy Guide_to_Modifying_the_Boxster_Sound_System.pdf

Finally found the instructions on how to do this and thought I would share, it was really easy once I got the diagrams and instructions. Cayenne 2013 door handle rplacement.pdf

I recently had the opportunity (read need) to replace the coolant expansion tank on my '06 CS Titanium due to the seal leaking. While the DIY write-up on Pelican Parts is certainly adequate I think they have you do more than necessary. So, below are the steps I took to replace mine. Tools needed (may not be all inclusive as I'm doing this from memory): 12mm triple square driver, T30 & T15 torx bits, 16mm (or 5/8") socket, couple of extensions, blade screwdriver 1. Remove the beauty covers over the CET, in front of the passenger side MAF, and passenger side air pump. This gains you access to all the parts you need to remove to get to the CET. 2. Siphon any coolant from the tank. I used a clear plastic tube pushed down into the tank as far as it would go and sucked on it to get it started. Just like siphoning a gas tank (not that I ever did that...). 2. remove the air filter box. a. remove the filter cover and filter. This requires disconnecting the cover from the MAF b. remove the air box. This is held in by one bolt at the top front and two pins on the bottom. It takes a little effort to disconnect it from the air inlet and maneuver it out of the space. 3. Disconnect the torque arm at the frame mounting bracket and loosen it at the engine mount. This has a 16mm bolt and the 12mm triple square bolt. With it disconnected at the frame mount and loosened at the engine you can swing it out of the way. 4. Remove the torque arm frame mount bracket. This has two 16mm bolts. One near the engine, one at the back that is reachable with a socket and rachet. Pelican calls for removing the lamp assy, but this is not necessary at all. 5. With the torque mount bracket out of the way you can now remove the CET. Remove the hoses attached making sure to catch any additional coolant that may come out of the main hose and maneuver the lower (main) hose up and out of the way. 6. Remove the CET by pulling it forward and up. It has a mounting channel on the bottom that you have to pull it out of. 7. Assy is the reverse. Once I was done with the installation I put in about 2 quarts of coolant to top it off. After driving it for a day I rechecked and added just a bit to bring it up to max as it had bled down to min during this time, which I expected it to do. Here's a link to pics. http://s1172.photobucket.com/user/tjrobinson2000/library/Porsche Cayenne Unfortunately the pics I took are all 4mb or larger so I can't upload them directly.

Thanks again to all of those contributors that helped me while I went through this upgrade. This topic appears to be a common one and one that doesn't appear to have a complete solution for contending with the MOST bus. Hopefully my DIY will help owners with the MOST bus successfully upgrade their factory stereo system as I have with mine. Also note that the wiring and process described should work with any system (Kenwood, Alpine, etc.), not just the AVIC D3 as the signal requirements and factory harness wiring is detailed here. Also note that this upgrade also covers the iPod interface, Sirius satellite radio and Bluetooth module install. Good luck! 03_04_Boxster_AVIC_D3_Radio_Upgrade.pdf

Symptom: CEL light comes on and when investigated, P0492 code (or similar) is detected. The following code description is observed in Durametric SW: Secondary Air Injection System Bank 2 - Value below lower limit value, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and causing a DTC lightWhat is wrong:From my experience and from others' posts, this is usually caused by the failure of the secondary air pump that is located inside engine compartment (the two horn like structures on either side of the bay, near the firewall).The failure is apparently caused by the valve getting dirty and failing to open, which causes filter foam (you will see once you open this sucker out), to back up into the pump itself, causing fan blades to break off and plug up the hose even more.Once the fan blades are broken, the pump will need replacement.NOTE: If you choose to only replace the pump, please understand the cause of failure, since it may be likely you will have another failure. I did not think this would be the case until I removed the valve with hose and cleaned out a bunch of debris from there....so if you are servicing pump, you will do yourself a lot of good by cleaning the valve/hose at same time.Anyways, DIY is using pics, each successively numbered with instructions.Hope this helps someone make the repair.Plan on about 2-3 hours of work for this repair (1 pump), at nice leisurely pace. The other pump repair will be very similar, except pump part number will be different and location of mounts/screws will be on passenger side.Have fun. *** EDIT*** - I was gone for a while and all my pics had been removed from my tutorials. Regardless how it happened, here they are.

Hello Here's how to change wiper blades inexpensively buy just the rubber scraper at a store specializing in meter disassemble the brush to remove the 2 plastic caps on the ends of the brush with a small screwdriver prying to lift up the ends paw stuck rubber levering pull the rubber to change up the tab again to close the rubber blocks that give tips and here the brand new wipers Cayann friendly

About 3 weeks back I started getting a CEL with a Code 0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit. Upper Limit Exceeded. After clearing the code it kept coming back within a day or two and the car stalled on two occasions. Based on research on the forums, this seemed very much in line with sensor failures on 955's and a DIY existed for these model years, but not the 957. My 957 now has around 120k miles, and the engine runs incredibly well, aside from this one recent anomaly. I ordered a replacement sensor, from Pelican Parts which arrived the next day (very impressive service) :lowdown: thanks Pelican Crankshaft Sensor Brand: Bosch Note: Engine Type: 4.8L 4806cc V8 (3.78x3.27; 96.0x83.0) (2008 Porsche Cayenne S Sport Utility) Part #: 0-261-210-292-INT As there was no info available on this DIY for a 957 so I'm hoping the following will help others get this done easily when needed, and in particular so you can save the 2 hours extra it took me to figure out where and how everything was located, as well as how to get to it. Which I did while I was waiting for the new part to arrive However once that research was done, the actual job of replacing the sensor took about 45 minutes. The main challenge is that the connector is difficult to access as it is behind and below the fuel pump on the right hand side as you face the front of the car. Even with an inspection scope it was difficult to locate. It was only once I looked from under the car that I could see where it was located. Also the connector plug is attached to a rectangular section of plastic tubing/conduit on the wiring harness, by a clip which is very rigid. After multiple attempts to release this clip it broke off. I think give the location it gets very hot and over the years becomes brittle. You should remove the engine compartment trim at the rear of the engine for better access. I also borrowed a few pics of an engine on the web to mark the location: I also found that removing the harness from the engine made it easier to get my hands around the connector to get the two ends separated. Once you have the old sensor disconnected, attach the new one and and tape the end of the new sensor tip with some painters tape just for protection and slowly lower it down into the engine compartment. It will end up either side of the primary cat where it is easily accessible from below. Also let the old sensor cable drop into the engine bay as you will then extract it from below. Now move to underneath the vehicle. I only needed to jack up the front left of the vehicle (jack stand + jack for extra safety). No wheels need to be removed. Do not jack up the car before dealing with the connector at the top of the engine bay as it will make it difficult to reach. Between the connector and the sensor, the cable is secured at 3 locations. See pictures below. The cable is pretty easy to remove and secure from below the vehicle and it can be seen and accessed without removing any of the under trays (depending on your level of flexibility). The lowest retaining clip is a push in type retaining clip where you simply press the cable into the tensioned clip. The two upper retaining clips are circular in shape and hinge open and closed. With a built of gentle persuasion you can pull them open and the cable comes out easily. I could not get the uppermost one in the pics but it is similar to the 2nd one shown in the pics. The sensor is held in place with a single torx T5 screw. Once you have the old sensor off you can pull it out and put it aside and attach the new one. I suggest attaching the sensor first and the attaching the cable to the retaining clips. Very rewarding and inexpensive fix, and everything is back to normal. No more codes and the car runs beautifully!

Here is how I installed my CTEK Comfort Indicator Panel. I decided to install it under the driver's side dash for convenience, aesthetics, and to prevent possible damage if I were to forget it was plugged in. There are two different lengths of this type of plug; one is 4.9', the other is 10.8'. I installed the 10.8' cord because I wanted more options of where I could install it. In this mod, I used the following: Small Flat Screwdriver T-20 Torx Driver 6mm, 8mm & 10mm Sockets w/ Ratchet 4 Zip-Ties Razor Blade Sharpie Marker Small Ruler I used my ruler to measure the backside of the Indicator Panel, then marked the demesions on the OBD2 panel under the dash on the driver's side. I then used a razor blade to cut the insulation and panel so the Indicator Panel would have a tight fit. I then used a small flat screwdriver to pop up the SS Door Sills. I then used a T-20 Torx driver to remove the plastic Door Sills. With the Door Sills removed, I pulled the carpet back just far enough to route the cable alongside existing wires from the OBD2 area, to the rats nest of wires located under the driver's seat. I then pushed the new cable through the hole in the battery tray. I then unbolted the positive battery cable removed the battery tray grommet to slide the cable through it. I had to remove the fuse in order to do that. I then reinstalled the battery cable through the grommet alongside the new cable. There is no need to cut the grommet as it will fit with a little patience. I made sure to leave just enough cable to mount the rings onto the battery. I then unbolted 3 different cable to route the new cable underneath to give it a professional look. I then zip-tied the excess under the dash while using zip-ties in various locations to secure it. I then bolted the rings onto the battery posts to make sure it was working properly before I put everything back together. I hope you enjoyed my DIY tutorial. Do not hesitate to PM if there are any questions. I am happy to help.

[EDIT: 2015/04/01] I've added a second 'fix' below this one. Check them both out and choose the one you'd like to try. My 2004 996 Targa key fob started acting up recently. It got to the point where I could press any of the three buttons and the LED would light up, but the car wouldn't respond. Sometimes when I would give the key a good whack on my palm it would work properly for a second, but then stop. Since the key's LED would light up with any button press, I knew that the buttons themselves were functioning properly. And because I could get it to sometimes work by hitting it, I was sure that there must be a broken solder joint somewhere on the PCB (Printed Circuit Board). Here's how I fixed it by using a heat gun to reflow the existing solder. Items needed: - Aluminum foil - Heat gun - Soldering iron - Solder Open up the key and pull out the PCB. Leave the battery in and try pressing the unlock button while putting pressure on different areas of the PCB to make it flex very slightly. When I did this, I found that applying pressure to one specific area would make the unlock button work every time. This just verifies that there's a bad solder joint somewhere. Remove the battery and desolder the plastic battery holder (two solder joints - easy to get to.) This is necessary because we'll be using a heat gun a couple of steps later and you don't want the battery holder to melt. Take a piece of aluminum foil and press it tightly against the side of the PCB with the key's buttons. You want to make sure that it conforms as much as possible to the shape of the PCB and all of its components. This servers two purposes: (1) it helps radiate heat away from the downward-facing side of the PCB, and (2) if any of the solder joints on the downward-facing side do melt, the aluminum foil will help hold the components in place. Set the key fob on a hard (nonflammable) surface with the foil/button side down. I used a metal baking sheet that I had in the garage. Cut a small piece of solder from your roll and place it on the top of the PCB. Make sure it's not near any of the electrical components. You don't want to accidentally create a short by having your solder melt to anything important! This piece of solder will be your control to let you know when everything has reached the correct temperature. NOTE: I ended up moving my control piece of solder from where it's shown in this photo (top left) to one of the holes where the battery holder was soldered on. This kept it from blowing around when I turned the heat gun on. Turn your heat gun on and move it back and forth over the exposed side of the PCB. You need to keep it moving to make sure that no one spot gets too hot. As soon as you see your control piece of solder start to melt, turn the heat gun off. This means that the existing solder has reached its melting point and should have reflowed to fix any broken joints. Let everything cool for a couple of minutes, re-solder your battery holder, insert your battery and give it a try! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If the above method doesn't work for you, try this: While the reflow method worked for me, it ended up only lasting for a couple of months before my key fob started acting up again. After taking it apart again and performing some diagnostics on the circuit, I discovered that the transmitter itself is what was causing the problem. Several of the solder joints weren't making great contact, likely caused by the PCB flexing in the key fob's housing over time. To fix it once and for all, I used a fine-tipped soldering iron to reheat the solder on each pin of the transmitter while I applied downward pressure to the top of the transmitter itself - ensuring a good connection. I'm going on about 4 months now after the fix and it's working like it's brand new! Open up your key fob, desolder the battery holder, and locate the transmitter (circled in the image below.) I soldered some AA batteries on mine for testing the circuit... Ignore those. :) Use something like a pencil eraser to apply pressure to the top of the transmitter. At the same time, very carefully touch your soldering iron to the top of each pin on the transmitter to re-melt the existing solder. Make sure that you only leave the soldering iron on each pin for, maybe 1 second - if that long. Too long could overheat and ruin the IC (Integrated Circuit.) After reheating a pin, make sure to lift the soldering iron straight up and wait a few seconds for the pin to cool before moving to the next one. Lifting the iron straight up, as opposed to sliding it from pin-to-pin will insure that you don't accidentally create a short between two pins with some solder stuck to your iron. I don't know if this last step helped or not, but I added a small roll of tape to the top of the transmitter. That way, after soldering the battery holder back on, it will keep a constant bit of pressure on the top of the transmitter - Hopefully keeping those solder joints from "cracking" loose again. Just re-solder your battery holder back on and you're all done! Good luck!

997 Turbo Bumper removal, Radiator cleaning, and Mesh Grill Install: Removed front bumper assembly, cleaned radiators, and fabricated and installed new aluminum mesh grills to block some of the trash. Took photos, and documented the process I used and created a simple do-it-yourself website. I am no expert, and I am sure there are many ways of doing this..So if it helps, Great! If you know a better way...go for it. TheRocksFront MeshGrillsDIY.pdf

Working with the EPROM on Porsche Boxster - illustrated - old and new style clusters(1)-1.pdf Working with the EPROM on Porsche Boxster - illustrated - old and new style clusters(1)-1.pdf

Parts required: ( I did this as inexpensive as possible) Steel tow bumper bought on ebay (200bucks) 955-618-040-10 Control Unit 955-612-506-00 Wiring Harness PNA-955-118-93 Trailer Hitch Connector (this is the 7 pin Pollak connector) PNA 955-127-08 7-4 way Adapter N-909-892-01 bumper bolts (8) Tools required: Allen key set 10mm wrench screw driver 1/4" ratchet torx driver set flashlight 21mm socket torque wrench Step 1: Remove spare tire floor by pulling hatch out towards the rear. There are no bolts that hold this in. Step 2: Use the torx bits to remove the chrome tie downs on the passenger side as well as the bolt closest to the hatch Step 3: After removing the side carpeted piece, there will be two additional screws underneath that hold the vertical carpeting piece in Step 4: Remove pillar cover on passenger side. Pull plastic cover labeled "airbag" off and remove screw underneath. Carelly work cover free at the top first. Step 5: Remove the exposed screw on the lower portion of the pillar Step 6: Disconnect trunk light Step 7: Remove the passenger side net anchor screws Step 8: Pull the passenger side section down. The clips are very tight, so be careful when prying the plastic. This is where the clip locations are. Step 9: Slowly pry passenger side pillar cover off, starting at the top. Once you reach the speaker, be sure to disconnect the wire as shown. Step 10: Remove screw that is now exposed on the rear pillar Step 11: Carefully pull the passenger side carpet panel out as shown. Step 12: Use the flashlight and look in between the carpet panel and the inner fender well. Pull out the pre-located harness plug, roughly half way in towards the front as shown. The plug is RED Step 13: Pull out and connect to the module. Plugs are specific so it will only fit into the center plug. Leave hanging for later use. Step 14: Remove both tail light allen bolts on the inside of the hatch area. They will be covered by two plastic plugs as seen below. Step 15: Carefully pry tail lights straight out towards the rear. There are 2 clips, one forward, and one rear on each lense. Disconnect harness and set aside. Step 16: Remove both torx screws on the bumper cover that were previously under the tail lights Step 17: In each fender well, remove the torx screws, starting in the rear, moving to the top of the fender. No need to remove all of them, you just need to access a hidden screw under the fender liner. Step 18: Remove hidden screw on both sides in the fender well. This is somewhat difficult to access, the torx bit will be FACING towards the rear of the car, close to the 10 o'clock position in the fender well. Step 19: Remove the lower allen bolts in the bumper cover Step 20: carefully wiggle the bumper cover free. The parking assist sensors will still be plugged in, so don't completely remove. Once far enough out, locate and disconnect plug on the DRIVER side Step 21: Remove foam and sensors as one, and save for reinstall. Loosen 8 bolts holding on aluminum bumper and completely remove bumper. Step 22: Install new STEEL bumper with hitch. Torque bolts to 140 lb/ft Step 23: Reinstall parking sensors and foam on top Step 24: Install plug cover into harness Step 25: Remove plastic cover on bumper support, and use screws to attach harness and plug assembly. Step 26: Route harness along the bottom of the bumper support towards passenger side. Remove rubber grommet and replace with grommet already attached to the wire harness. The wire ties should be positioned perfectly to install in holes in the bumper support. Step 27: Grab harness on the interior side, and route up and over the factory cd changer to the existing plug you found early on. Plug into module. Step 28: Using screws, install module on top of existing electronics in passenger side area. There will only be 2 plugs even though there are three sockets on the module Step 29: On the bumper cover, there are marking where to cut the relief for the receiver as shown below. I made the cut with a sharp razor blade Step 30: Reinstall all components and panels in reverse order (have fun with all of this!) Step 31: Locate the right fuse box on the side of the passenger side dashboard. Install a 15A fuse in slot 1, 3, and 5 plus replace slot 19 with a 30A. FINAL STEP: IF YOU ARE LUCKY, the module ordered is already programmed for the US. Unfortunately, it seems like the dealerships are stocking the UK version. You will need someone with a porsche scan tool to reset the module to the US version (UK is the fold out version). If you don't have any errors on your dashboard, then you have the right US version. If you get a tow warning, you will need the module reset. ENJOY!!

Hello Everyone. Please find my first tutorial submission. Replacing the Valve Body (aka valve chest) in a 2003 Cayenne Turbo Symptoms: Very harsh shift from 1-2-3 when under load (like getting rear ended by a truck) Hesitant shifts and flaring when driving normally. "Clunky" shifts. Vehicle has travelled around 210,000km. Fluid has never been changed (dealer said is was not necessary-which is not true!) After doing lots of reading it seemed like the valve body (VB) was the likely culprit. You can either replace with a new VB or have your old one re-built. If you replace the VB with a new one, you also need a new transmission control unit, and the problems will most likely re-appear. I went the re-build route and chose RevMax converters based on other people's experience. Note that RexMax don't ship outside the USA, so as I live in Australia, I used my wife's USA2ME mailbox, and they sent it on to me. I also had to send my old core in as they didn't have one in stock, but I'm glad I did, as there are several versions of VB depending on the year of your car. They rebuilt it within 48 hours. As you will need to drain and re-fill the trans, I won't be covering that in too much detail as it is covered extensively elsewhere (see my reference links below). Parts list 1) Auto trans filter 955-307-403-01 2) Auto trans filter sealing O-ring 955-325-443-00 3) Filler Hole seal O-ring 955-321-379-00 4) Crush ring for transmission drain hole - sorry didn't have PN for this as I forgot to order it! I re-used my old one. 5) 3 x Long VB retaining bolts WHT 000 321 6) 11 x short VB retaining bolts WHT 000 324 7) Transmission pan gasket 955-397-016-00 8) Case (12 quarts) of Mobil ATF 3309 or Toyota type IV Transmission fluid (It is the same stuff do don't panic if you can't get Mobil or Porsche branded fluid) Tools List 1) 1 x micro torque wrench (range 2-20 ft-lbs) 2) 1 x normal torque wrench (for torquing the fill plug to 70 ft-lbs) 3) T40 Torx bit to remove drain plug 4) 17mm Hex bit for fill plug 5) 10mm socket (apart from the drain plugs everything is a 10mm socket) 6) general other sockets and screwdrivers. 7) Durametric software to read transmission temp and re-set adaptation (you can get buy with a temp probe on a multimeter, but it was much easier to use the software, and IMHO if you are attempting a job like this you really should get it. It'll pay for itself on this job alone). 8) A willing assistant to help with the re-fill procedure. Reference - read this stuff first and print out the relevant pages 1) Official method for removing the valve body http://www.inkilino.es/Porsche_Cayenne_02-06/AUTO%20TRANS%20GEARS%20CONTROL.pdf 2) A really nice tutorial on draining and re-filling the transmission in addition to the ones on Renntech by ECS tuning http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3e01bf511d4da3315c66902d6.r6.cf1.rackcdn.com/CayenneTransmission.pdf 3) there's a brief write up at club touareg that I used as a starter http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f73/transmission-valve-body-diy-on-2004-touareg-v8-09d-trans-64189.html Part 1 Removing the Pan and Valve Body 1) Remove the underbody protection panel. 2) There is a 2 peice bracket that holds the protection panel up, unbolt it in the centre and side and remove it. 3) My car had a strong bash plate over the rear of the transmission pan, it will need to be removed in order to access the rear pan bolts. 4) Drain the fluid from the pan (First make sure you can budge the large fill hole-It's really tight I had to use a big metal bar to crack it, once it's "cracked" you can then remove the T40 torx drain plug). Best to drain the fluid cold after it's been sitting overnight. You'll drain an easy 5-6 quarts here. 5) Remove the ATF Pan bolts (all 10mm) and save them - they can be reused. 6) Gently knock the pan to break the seal and remove it. 7) Remove the 3 10mm retaining bolts from the ATF filter and remove the filter. Make sure the seal ring comes out too. More fluid will come out. Discard filter and o-ring. You should not be able to see the valve body as below. Take a picture and make notes as to which wire goes where. It's actually not that complicated as the wires will only really go in one spot when you re-assemble. You also need to note how the selector shaft engages with the VB as below. Again this looks tricky, but it was dead easy to put back together. Here's a close up of the shift solenoid wiring harness showing the green connectors in the black housings. Here's a pic of the other side. You can see another solenoid, plus the two pressure switches (gold colour) and up the back the large white output shaft speed inductive pickup connecter. Note how the white connecter clips onto the bracket and also how the wiring is tucked under the bracket. 8) Now work your way slowly around the 5 solenoids on the shift selector side removing the green connectors. I used a small screwdriver to depress the little clip and lever them out. You should not need to use hardly any force on these. You don't want to damage them at all. 9) Remove the 2 black cable plugs at the rear of the VB and the single solenoid green connector at the front of the VB. 10) Next pull off the plug for the input shaft inductive pickup. This is located at the front of the trans, right up in the "guts" of it. It looks really tricky, but using a long screw driver it came right out. Putting it back in was also really easy, so work slowly and don't panic. 11) Next pull off the two cables from the gold pressure switches. They just pop right off. 12) Remove the bolt holding the ATF temp sensor (2 orange wires) and pull the sensor out. It's held in by an o-ring. Save the bolt and retaining bracket. Don't remove the sensor from the wiring harness, just let it dangle with the rest of the wiring harness. 13) Remove the large white connector at the rear of the VB (output shaft inductive pickup) from the bracket and unclip the white connector. 14) Remove the steel bracket and save it and it's bolts. 15) Remove the 2 gold pressure sensors (if you get the VB rebuilt you'll get new ones, but hang onto them just in case). Now all the wires should be free. Tie or secure them gently so they're out of the way. The VB is very heavy and will also dump a heap of fluid when you remove it, so you don't want to snag the wires at all. 16) Now remove the valve body by removing the 14 bolts around the outside. They are all 10mm. I removed all but 2, one at the front and one at the rear, then slowly loosened them allowing the VB to tilt forward. This allows some of the excess fluid to run out. There is still easily 2-3 quarts of fluid in there so it's messy. Again take care the VB is very heavy, expecially if you are working on your own. Here's the transmission with the valve body removed. Note the black wire in the centre of the transmission is the output shaft inductive pickup that is attached to the big white connector. Clean up the VB and send it off to be rebuilt. Part 2 Installing the VB 1) get all your parts together. Note the valve body retaining bolts CANNOT be re-used, so make sure you got new ones. 2) Gently place the VB in it's position. Make sure the selector shaft mates correctly with the VB. Mine almost just fell into place itself. Also make sure that none of the wires are snagged especially the output shaft wire (big white connector).If you've secured them out of the way this won't be a problem. I put in 2 bolts to start with to get the position right and take the weight. Only do them barely hand tight. This is really important as the torquing process will be ruined of you do them up too tight to start with. 3) Put in the rest of the bolts and tighten them up by hand so the VB is in place and mated correctly to the transmission. If you get the bolts in the right place, you'll be fine. Don't do them up too tight! 4) Now the bolts need to be torqued in 2 stages. Initially using your micro torque wrench to 6 ft-lbs (8 nm) and then finally through an angle of 90 degrees (quarter of a turn). I had an angle gauge, but I couldn't find a good spot to use it against the transmission body. So in the end I just torqued them by "eye". 90 degrees is easy to judge. So to re-cap. Torque all bolts initially to 6ft-lbs and then once you've torqued all 14 bolts, the go around and torque them AGAIN through 90 degrees. If you have one of those fancy digital torque wrenches, it may also do angular torque for you. Here's the new VB installed in the transmission. Note the wires are hanging neatly to the side. 5) Reinstall the two gold pressure switches (torque to 3.25 ft-lbs/4.5 nm) and also re-install the bracket you removed that holds the white output shaft inductive pickup wire connector. Make sure the wire is routed correctly under the bracket and attach the white connector to the bracket as below. 6) Connect the other white connector from the output shaft pickup 7) Replace the ATF temperature sensor using the bracket and the bolt. Note the wire points to the rear of the VB. Torque the bolt to 7.5 ft-lbs/10nm. 8) Plug in the 2 cables for the gold pressure switches. 9) Plug in the cable for the input shaft inductive pickup. This is the one that's right up at the front of the transmission. For me it went straight in no problems at all with a nice positive "click". It looks a bit daunting, but was surprisingly easy to re-connect. 10) Plug in the remaining green six green connectors, and the two black connectors at the back of the VB. Compare the wiring layout to the picture you took before you unpluged them all!. If you didn't take a picture, don't panic, the wires only really go one way, just make sure they're nice and neat. As a guide the orange temperature sensor wires go under the green/brown solenoid wire. 11) Next reinstall the ATF filter using the new O-ring. Torque the 3 bolts to 7.5 ft-lbs or 10 nm. It should all look like this... 12) Next put the new Pan gasket in place on the pan and using the old pan bolts install the pan and torque the bolts to 7.5 ft-lbs or 10nm. I put a little drop of Permatex blue threadlocker on them for good measure. Here's a picture of the nice clean pan and new gasket next to the old gasket. Make sure the pan and magnets are all clean. Just wipe it out. I didn't want to use degreaser in case it contaminated the trans fluid. My magnets weren't too dirty. I've seen pictures of this trans in an Audi and the magnets looked like little Chia pets!! Install the small drain plug and new crush ring (doh!) and torque to 21 ft-lbs/28nm. 13) Now cold fill the pan until fluid comes out the fill hole. It took about 4 quarts. I used a $8 garden sprayer, and put about 2 feet of clear hose on the end with a hose clamp. This allowed me to have the pump bottle at the ground, and put the plastic tube into the transmission so it hooked over the fill tube. It worked brilliantly! Here's a picture of the bottle I used. Here's the top of the setup. You can see the plastic tube going into the transmission. I also had my multimeter temp probe in there, but it turned out I didn't poke it in far enough so it couldn't pick up the temperature. I used the Durametric software instead. 14) Now for the "hot" fill procedue. Make sure your fill bottle is full. I ended up using a total of 10.5 quarts to refill the transmission (this is more than a normal fluid change as the VB has been removed), so I had to refill the fill bottle half way though the procedure. You have to move quickly as once the temperature starts to move on the transmission it only takes about 5 minutes to get to 40oC. I set my laptop up in easy reach (make sure it's fully charged or better still connected to AC) and also had all my bottles of ATF at my feet. 15) Have your assistant start the car and you start filling the transmission. I added another 4 quarts in a few minutes. Ask your assistant to move from P to R to D and back again with about a 3-4 second pause between each shift. Do this once. 16) Keep filling the transmission, and watching the temp on the software. Once the fill bottle was empty quickly re-fill it, re-pressurise and keep filling. Get your assistant to do the shift sequence again. I found that at about 32-35oC the trans was getting full. Fluid will start to leak back out the hole, so make sure you've got a drain pan under the hole! 17) Keep filling and execute another shift sequence. At about 38oC I got another shift sequence done, and then put a but more fluid it. 18) At 39oC fluid started coming out the hole a bit faster, and at 40oC I quickly pulled out the tube and put in the fill hole socket. Torque it to 70 ft-lbs. 19) Stop the car, using the durametric software execute the Reset Adaptation command for the transmission. After that go for a test drive! As the transmission control unit is in learn mode, you should try to do all sorts of driving styles. This has solved all the shifting problems I had, it really drives like a new car. Even my wife commented on how smooth it is now. Check for leaks and replace the underbody panels etc. Enjoy your new car!

Top View 1- Ignition bar module, cylinder 1, bank 1 2 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 2, bank 1 3 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 3, bank 1 4 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 4, bank 1 5 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 5, bank 2 6 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 6, bank 2 7 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 7, bank 2 8 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 8, bank 2 9 - Fuel injector, cylinder 1, bank 1 (hidden) 10 - Fuel injector, cylinder 2, bank 1 (hidden) 11 - Fuel injector, cylinder 3, bank 1 (hidden) 12 - Fuel injector, cylinder 4, bank 1 (hidden) 13 - Fuel injector, cylinder 5, bank 2 (hidden) 14 - Fuel injector, cylinder 6, bank 2 (hidden) 15 - Fuel injector, cylinder 7, bank 2 (hidden) 16 - Fuel injector, cylinder 8, bank 2 (hidden) 17 - Inlet camshaft hall sensor, bank 1 18 - Inlet camshaft hall sensor, bank 2 19 - Knock sensor, bank 1 (hidden) 20 - Knock sensor, bank 2 (hidden) 21 - VarioCam solenoid valve, bank 1 22 - VarioCam solenoid valve, bank 2 23 - Ambient air solenoid valve 24 - Positive crankcase ventilation 25 - Three-way pressure valve 26 - Tank vent valve 27 - Throttle adjusting unit 28 - Positive crankcase ventilation heater 29 - Boost pressure control solenoid valve Front View 1 - Mass air flow sensor, right (hidden) 2 - Mass air flow sensor, left 3 - Charge air cooler, right 4 - Charge air cooler, left 5 - Boost-pressure sensor 6 - Boost pressure control solenoid valve (hidden) 7 - Boost pressure control valve (waste gate) - mechanical, right 8 - Boost pressure control valve (waste gate) - mechanical, left (hidden) 9 - Vacuum accumulator (in intake distributor) 10 - Overrun recirculating air solenoid valve (hidden) 11 - Overrun recirculating air valve - mechanical, left 12 - Overrun recirculating air valve - mechanical, right Rear View 1 - Secondary air valve - mechanical, left 2 - Ambient air solenoid valve 3 - Vacuum accumulator - integrated into intake distributor 4 - Coolant temperature sensor 5 - Secondary air valve - mechanical, right Underside View 1- Oil level and temperature sensor Oxygen Sensing 1- DME control module 2 - Secondary air injection pump, bank 1 3 - Secondary air valve - mechanical, bank 1 4 - Oxygen sensor in front of catalytic converter, bank 1 5 - Pre-catalytic converter, bank 1 6 - Oxygen sensor after catalytic converter, bank 1 7 - Main catalytic converter, bank 1 8 - Secondary air injection pump, bank 2 9 - Secondary air valve - mechanical, bank 2 10 - E-box in radiator tank with fuse and relay carrier 11 - Main catalytic converter, bank 2 12 - Oxygen sensor after catalytic converter, bank 2 13 - Pre-catalytic converter, bank 2 14 - Oxygen sensor ahead of catalytic converter, bank 2 Charge Measurement and Fuel Supply 1 - Mass air flow sensor, right 2 - Fuel injector, cylinder 1, bank 1 3 - Fuel injector, cylinder 2, bank 1 4 - Fuel injector, cylinder 3, bank 1 5 - Fuel injector, cylinder 4, bank 1 6 - DME control module 7 - Electric fuel pump, right 8 - EVAP canister 9 - Fuel tank 10 - Electric fuel pump, left 11 - Driver's door lock with switch for fuel pump supply 12 - Current distributor with cutoff relay under driver's seat 13 - KESSY control module 14 - E-box in radiator tank with fuse and relay carrier 15 - Pedal sensor 16 - Fuel injector, cylinder 8, bank 2 17 - Fuel injector, cylinder 7, bank 2 18 - Fuel injector, cylinder 6, bank 2 19 - Fuel injector, cylinder 5, bank 2 20 - Tank vent valve 21 - Mass air flow sensor, left 22 - Positive crankcase ventilation heater 23 - Throttle adjusting unit Charge Measurement and Fuel Supply - additional items for Turbo 1 - Mass air flow sensor, right 2 - Overrun recirculating air valve - mechanical, right 3 - Turbocharger with boost pressure control valve (waste gate), right 4 - Boost-pressure sensor 5 - Boost pressure control solenoid valve 6 - Vacuum pump for brake booster 7 - Intake distributor with integrated vacuum reservoir (used to control overrun recirculating air valves, for example) 8 - DME control module 9 - Brake booster 10 - E-box in radiator tank with fuse and relay carrier 11 - Pressure sensor for brake booster 12 - Ambient air solenoid valve 13 - Turbocharger with boost pressure control valve (waste gate), left 14 - Overrun recirculating air valve - mechanical, left Camshaft and Ignition Sensors 1 - Inlet camshaft vane-type adjuster, bank 1 2 - VarioCam solenoid valve, bank 1 3 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 1, bank 1 4 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 2, bank 1 5 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 3, bank 1 6 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 4, bank 1 7 - DME control module 8 - Hall sensor, bank 1 9 - Hall sensor, bank 2 10 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 8, bank 2 11 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 7, bank 2 12 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 6, bank 2 13 - Ignition bar module, cylinder 5, bank 2 14 - VarioCam solenoid valve, bank 2 15 - Inlet camshaft vane-type adjuster, bank 2 16 - Knock sensor, bank 2 17 - Knock sensor, bank 1 Temperature Control with Sensors 1 - Radiator fan, large (right) 2 - Ambient air temperature sensor 3 - Thermostat with housing 4 - Coolant temperature sensor 5 - DME control module 6 - Instrument cluster 7 - E-box in radiator tank with fuse and relay carrier 8 - Additional coolant circulation pump (also controlled by the DME in turbo engines only) 9 - Radiator fan, small (left)

Building Your Own Car Ramps I've been disappointed by off-the-shelf car ramps from auto parts stores and even high-end specialty catalogs. They all seem to be too low to the ground, to narrow for big 'monster meats', too steep of an approach angle so they won't fit under a low air dam or exhaust, and generally flimsy. So I built my own, to my own specifications. My requirements were: 1) extra width and no side channels for enhanced stability and to accomodate extra-wide tires 2) shallow approach angle for vehicles with low ground clearance 3) extra height for more working space under vehicles with low ground clearance 4) very high strength for my own peace of mind Disclaimer: Following is a description and photos of my own design. I used brand-new, premium, non-treated lumber and an entire (small) box of 2-1/2" galvanized nails. I built them carefully and made sure every interface was joined by several nails for extra safety. I believe my ramps could hold up a semi truck. But, I make no claims as to their suitability for any such purpose, and if you build your own ramps based on my design using your own materials, techniques, tools, and ideas, you do so at your own risk. If you use such ramps to work on your car, you do so at your own risk. Safety first! There are many Porsches in the world, but only one you... Materials Required: 1. Four (4) industry-standard premium "2x10" boards, each measuring eight (8) feet in length 2. Two (2) industry-standard premium "2x4" boards, each measuring twelve (12) feet in length 3. One (1) industry-standard premium plywood, 3/4" thick, measuring approximately seven (7) feet by two (2) feet 4. One (1) box (approx qty=200-300) galvanized nails, 2-1/2" in length (drywall screws may be substituted) 5. Four (4) heavy-duty grab-handles (plated, galvanized, or painted) (optional, but recommended - these are heavy!) Tools Required: 1. Table saw or circular saw 2. Hand saw 3. Hammer 4. Square 5. Pencil 6. Measuring tape 7. Straightedge or chalk line 8. Screwdriver or power driver 9. Partner to help 10. Intermediate expertise in woodworking Basic Diagram: Procedure: 1. On each 8' section of 2x10, measure 24" from each end of the board, and draw a diagonal line between the points. Cut along this line to produce two (2) main boards from each single 8' 2x10 board. Each main board will have the shape of the side of the ramp. Each ramp will require at least four (4) main boards. (Optional - for increased strength and significantly increased weight, construct each ramp out of seven (7) main boards, thus making each ramp completely solid all the way through.) 2. If making the ramps as shown, cut 2x4 spacer blocks equal in length to the "10-inch" width of the 2x10 main boards. Create an alternating arrangement of main board 1, 2x4, main board 2, 2x4, main board 3, 2x4, then main board 4. 3. Cut smaller spacer blocks to fit between the main boards under the ramped section. These are critical to the long-term strength and stability of the ramp section, so do not leave these out. 4. Assemble the base sections with lots and lots of nails and/or drywall screws. Don't be afriad to use a lot. 5. Cut the facing out of your plywood. Mitre the ends of the plywood to make a smooth transition between the ground and the ramps. Mitre the joint between the facing on the ramp section and the facing on the top section. Assemble facing to base sections with plenty of nails/drywall screws. 5. VERY IMPORTANT: Cut end stop blocks out of your 2x4 stock to make "stop blocks" at the tops of the ramps. These act to give you notice that your tires are at the ends of the ramps. If you do not have these stop blocks, you may accidentally drive the vehicle right off the end of the ramps. If you have a hard time feeling when the tires contact the blocks, stack up two (2) thicknesses of 2x4s at the ends to make your stop blocks. Make sure the two thicknesses still clear the air dam/exhaust/etc. Assemble to ends of flat top sections as shown in the diagram with liberal use of nails and/or drywall screws. 6. Optional, but very very handy: Affix heavy-duty grab-handles in desired locations. Note the positions and orientations of the grab handles of my ramps. One set is to carry them around and move them when in storage (stored on their ends for minimal footprint), and the other is to move the ramps into position at the vehicle. Example Photos: Handles used to move/store ramps: Handles used to adjust position of ramps: You can either reply to this post or contact me directly at dphil66@hotmail.com if you have questions. Happy motoring!

I did the oil change yesterday and it went perfectly. I thought I'd provide the information in this post that I consolidated from this and other forums for any others who are interested. Pics attached. Thanks to all those who provided this information. 1. I changed the oil with a warm engine so that the oil would drain more easily. 2. I didn't unscrew the cap on the filler neck until midway through the draining process so that the oil wouldn't come out too quickly. 3. Unscrew the drain plug using an 8mm hex bit and let drain into a collecting basin. Next time I'll also place a tarp on the floor to catch any splatter that comes from the collecting basin. 4. While the oil was still dribbling, I loosened the oil filter housing using the special tool Oil Filter Spanner 92040. 5. While waiting for the oil filter element to completely drain, I removed the old O-ring from the oil filter housing. I used a flat head screw driver to get under it and to pry it off. Ensure not to scratch/damage the oil filter housing. The O-ring comes off very easily. 6. I then cleaned the oil filter housing, and placed a new O-ring on the oil filter housing. In the latter regard, I dipped the O-ring in some of the oil that was still inside the housing, distributed it all over the O-ring, and then gently rolled the O-ring over the housing until it rolled into place. Rolling it on evenly ensures that it doesn't get twisted, which would hamper making a good seal. 7. I then removed the old oil filter and cut it open to inspect it for metal fragments. Apparently small pepper sized metal fragments are okay, but cracked pepper sized fragments are a sign of potential problems. Mine looked great, with only a few little metal fragments in the entire filter. 8. Then I replaced the drain plug. I changed from the original to a magnetic one from LN Engineering (via Pelican Parts). It uses a 10mm hex. When putting the new aluminum sealing ring on the drain plug, ensure the smooth side is toward the engine block and the sharp edged side is toward the plug. I turned it counter clockwise until if felt it seat, then turned it clockwise by hand to ensure no cross-threading. Then use a torque wrench to tighten to 37 ftlb torque. 9. Then I inserted a new filter element. Place a little pressure on it and it pops right in place. 10. I prefilled the oil filter housing to somewhere between 1/3 and just under 1/2 full. Then screw it on by hand and finish with a torque wrench tightening to 19 ftlb torque (my 1/4" torque wrench only goes to 200 inlb which is a bit less than 19 ftlb--228inlb, and my 1/2" starts at 20ftlb; so I put it on with the 1/4 at 200 inlb and then checked with the 1/4" at 20 ftlb and got the click right away, so it should be about right). 11. I then began filling oil, having placed some paper towel to catch some drips under the filler neck. I put in the rest of the container that I started for the oil filter housing, as well as 7 more litres (i.e., 8 litres). 12. Check oil level. It gave an overfull indication, which apparently is normal. I started the car and let it run for about 15 seconds (Despite having prefilled the oil filter housing, I did get a low pressure warning that lasted only a second). Then started the check oil procedure again. This time it takes about 30 minutes. It tested one segment short (sorry for the poor pic but you'll get the idea). One segment corresponds to 0.4 litres, so I put in 400ml more, checked again with ignition only, and the oil level was perfect. So, the total oil used was 8.4 litres. 13. Then start the motor again and let run for a few minutes. Check for leaks. 14. Take it for a spin, and check for leaks.

I like pictures when I read a DIY, so I made these up to demonstrate what you are in for when you want to change your plugs. Use these pictures in conjunction with the writeup by ebaker...

The finish on the U-shaped silver trim that surrounds the shifter boot on the 996 (1994 C4 I my case) can start to bubble and lift, as you can see from the pictures. While I had read that it would require a full replacement the boot assembly (over $250) as the trim is an integral part of the boot assembly, I decided to try to remove and repair it. Trim removal from shift boot assembly It is possible to separate the trim from the assembly. Six plastic studs are molded into the back side of the trim to hold it in place in the boot assembly. Starting at the open end of the “U”, I pushed from the backside and lower part of the trim. It took some time to work them free and separate it. Go slowly, be firm, but gentle. Removal of old trim finish The trim is a piece of U-shaped plastic covered in a foil-like silver finish. It is this finish that was bubbling. Starting where it had bubbled up, I used a sharp knife to peel the old foil off. This can be time consuming because the foil adheres quite well where it is not bubbled. Using a sharp blade (razor or x-acto) flush against the surface allows you to peel back the foil enough to use your thumb and forefinger and pull it off in small to medium-sized strips. I also found that if you do this at the edges of the tri, you could get larger edge to peel off. You want to be careful not to gauge the surface as this will likely show through when you paint it. I removed 100% of the foil from the visible portion of the pieces, all of the edges, but could not get about 15% to 20% of the foil on the inner (concave) portion of the trim piece to come off and did not think it was necessary to spend any more time. Refinishing Preparation - Very lightly sand the outer surface of the piece with 220 grit (I did not have any 360 or 400) to rough up the surface and smooth any knife marks. Wipe it down with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and then wipe with a rag dabbed in a small amount of acetone to clean the surface. Prime with Dupli-Color grey primer – 3 light coats. Finishing – Finish with 3 coats of Dupli-Color VW Diamond Silver (P/N 8802029) and 2 coats of clear coat. (I took the trim to the store and VW Silver was the closest match). Reinstallation The trim piece simply snaps back into place. Conclusion The silver is a pretty close match (the picture is not representative). The new finish lacks, perhaps, a bit of metallic lustre, but is much better than what was there. Total time was about 1.5 hours, but it took about 8 hours with paint drying time.

Many thanks to all that have guided me on my quest to understand and then accomplish tasks that before this forum and it's members I would not have even contemplated. And it's FUN plus my wife likes it because I'm saving some money doing routine service myself. That being said I am now going to try my first DIY Post on a little fun project I did in approx 2 hours and boy did it turn out well. I got the idea when I was admiring a fellow co-workers Carrera with the shiny enameled center wheel covers. Upon doing some research I discovered they are expensive and often times stolen. We have a family owned 1998 986 that is STOCK BASIC and it needed a bit of color as it's the classic Arctic Silver Met with a black top and interior. The only other color on the car is the hood crest. So being an avid modeler in my youth and also today went into my hobby man cave and discovered that I had on hand all the necessary items needed to spruce up my basic black and silver wheel centers. Here are the steps and the items you'll need to complete this easy fixer upper. 1. Find a local hobby store or online and buy the following: Tamiya Acrylic paint in the following colors, Semi Gloss Black, Red, Gold and you'll also need some thinner I just use the Tamiya thinner. YOU MUST USE ACRYLIC as it holds it's color and after being shot with 3 coats of clear will last a long time! 1 Can of Dupli-Color High Performance Wheel CLEAR Pep-Boys 1 Set of hobby brushes small tipped (tight spaces on the wheel centers) 2. Approx. 2 hours of your time and bit of a steady hand but dont worry with a paper towel, thinner and a toothpick you can correct your errors if you cant stay inside the lines. :) Cost under $25.00 3. CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN the wheel centers a good dish soap or degreaser is best DRY COMPLETELY. 4. Start with the hard color 1st GOLD dont be put off it takes 2 coats and gold hobby paint is the worst color to apply just be patient after 1 coat dries apply the second and you'll see what I mean. Next do the RED. Then finally the BLACK. Set aside to dry for about 1/2 hour (have a Stella) then get out your clear coat and LIGHTLY apply 1 then 2 then 3 coats make sure you allow about 20 min for the clear to dry between coats. The wheel centers have recessed portions for each color so it's easy to paint dip the color into the spot where it belongs. TAA DAA your done and here are the results along with the products I used. Guess what my fellow co-worker thinks they look great! Take all look at the pics and you'll see the products and the results. Have fun!

I bought the roof rails for the pepper off another Canadian a while back and just got to install them today. It's uber easy and took about 30 minutes. The former owner gave me the screws to mount as well, but in reading the Porsche TSB; it said to always replace the screws so I got new ones from the dealer. They have a blue loc-tite type coating on them to lock them in place so I thought better safe than sorry. I started by cleaning the surface of the truck with a micro-fibre towel Each one of the holder thingies has lettering on it which corresponds to where they go (letters out) The positioning is as follows: vR-Front, Right mL-Center, Left hL-Rear, Left vL-Front Left mR-Center, Right hR-Rear, Right Put the back (rear) ones in first Then put the rail over the holders and secure with screws. 6.5 Ft. Lbs. torque, and tighten the rear one first Same for the other side and your done. Don't put any load on them for a while so the loc-tite stuff can cure Once tighten, use the plugs to fill the holes, they just push in. They go in this order: Long-rear, medium-middle, short-front. I just like the lines so much better with these on.....

Happy New Year everyone! It was cold and foggy here in Sacramento so I decided to do something about the yellowish headlights on my 03 996 C4S. I got the car about 3 weeks ago and it looks great but the headlights were somewhat yellowish. Looking at them closely, I noticed that there were very fine cracks and oxidation on the surface and decided to try to polish them. I found a "headlight lens restoration system" by 3M for $20 at Autozone. I removed the headlights and cleaned them well. Then I used a 500 grit disc (dry) on a drill to remove heavier scratches: The headlight looked completely ruined after sanding them with the 500 grit sand paper disc :o Then I used the 800 grit disc (dry) also on a drill to remove the scratches left by the previous disc: The headlight was not looking any better yet. The next step was to use a 3000 grit Trizact disc but I decided to wetsand using 2000 grit paper before: Then I used the 3000 grit disc (wet) on a drill. The disc is part of a thin foam pad so it stayed wet and worked nicely: The it was time to use the polishing compound on a foam pad. Just a little went a long way: This is the passenger's side headlight after polishing: And the driver's side headlight after polishing: I didn't take any photos before polishing them but I compared them after polishing only one and the difference was amazing. It removed all the yellowish tint from them. I'm going to buy some UV block for plastic tomorrow and see how long they stay clear and shinny. It took me about an hour and a half to do both headlights. So, if your headlights are not as clear as you would like, don't be afraid to sand them ;) Oscar

I have modified the rear storage compartment to handle two (2) 5" subs and two (2) 4" speakers. I will be using Focal speakers, the 5" 13KS subs and a pair or 4" 100CA. The Focal 5" subs are the best sounding subs that I've ever heard. I have spent weeks cutting and shaping this compartment and its finally ready to make the master mold. I will be selling these Rear Speaker/Sub Boxes in the very near future if anyone is interested. They will have a gelcoat finish and I'll make a few colors. I have attached a couple of photo's of the prototype so you can see what it looks like.

My 98 Boxster's front trunk compartment light has never worked so I decided to investigate. I first swapped the light assembly itself with the exact same light fixture in the rear trunk and found both lights worked. I deduced that it must be the front microswitch and ordered a new one from Sunset Porsche in Oregon. The cost was: $43.13 plus $8.00 shipping to Washington State. The Part number is: 996-613-206-00 I removed the carpet trunk liner. The front trunk liner is made up of 2 sections and I only had to remove the front section. There was one thumbscrew clip on the passenger side and one thumbscrew clip opposite on the driver's side. Also on the driver's side there was one snapin clip and 2 additional snapin clips located in the front of the trunk. All five clips are very easy to find and remove. I then removed the plastic trim directly on top of the latch and microswitch. There are 4 screw plugs and you simply turn the plastic plugs 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn: Take a 10mm wrentch and loosen but don't remove the two bolts inside the trunk that hold the latch: Then remove the metal backing plate: Remove the 10 mm bolts the rest of the way. Disconnect the harness by pinching the clips and pulling: Next you need to remove the harness from the metal attachment clip by sliding the clip and releasing it. This one is hard to reach and see and a flashlight might be necessary. The photo below shows the release clip after it has been removed: The assembly can now be removed. To separate the microswitch, examine your new switch and you will notice 2 clips. The photo below shows one of the clips. To disengage this clip you need to take a thin blade screw diver push in as noted by the arrow on the photo and you pull up as you press the clip in: If the first clip is placed at 1:00 o'clock the second clip will be at 7:00 o'clock and it simply hooks over the assembly. When installing the new switch, place the 7:00 o'clock hook on first and then snap the 1:00 clip into place. You may have to work the swich down into place just slightly before hooking and snapping. Assembly is the reverse of the removal and Bob's your Uncle and the front trunk light works!

Posted this on the 986 forum, thought I'd share it here... here's the link to the 986forum.com post in case there might be any relevant discussions 986 forum DIY

Now let me say that this job was quite straightfoward, BUT I would suggest that you have a bit of experience in bearing fittting as well as presswork or you may really mess things up in a big way. You also need a ball joint service puller set, and yes you need ALL the tools in the kit. I got mine from OTC/ msc industrial supply cat #78453842. You will also need a way to make some mandrels for pressing the bearings in and out. And a way to heat the carrier to around 150 degrees. Now for the fun 1) jack up car and place on jackstands, remove front wheels 2) remove front plastic underpanel 3) have someone hold the brakes (hard) and remove the front large (1.25") axel nut, this is TIGHT 340 ft.lbs. so get ready for a fight. 4) with a brass or aluminium mandrel and a hammer tap, (ok smack), the drive shaft to dislodge it from the splines of the hub (don't mess up the threads!!!) 5)Remove the brake pads and the brake caliper (hex drive) tie it up in the wheel well out of the way 6)Remove the psm sensor, move it to the side (2 10mm nuts) 7)unbolt lower sway bar link 8)unbolt headlight sensor link 9)Remove the brake rotor 10) Remove tin brake shield (10mm bolts) 11) remove 18mm nut and press apart tie rod link with the tool 12) remove the 18mm nut and carefully use the tool to press apart the lower ball joint 13) Unbolt the clamp on the strut, then while pressing down on the lower arm slide the carrier off the strut and the front axel (gt2 remove axel-bearing retainer) and take to the bench 14) Now from the rear side carefully press the center hub out of the bearing, It will come apart with 1/2 the bearing attached to the center hub, it is TIGHT and will take a bit of force to remove it. Be careful NOT to hurt the carrier as it is $$$ if you break it 15) With a puller remove the center race(the part that was left on the shaft) from the hub, set aside 16) take off the 4- 13mm bolts and remove the bearing retainer plate from the carrier 17) HEAT (and DO NOT skip this step) the carrier to 100 deg,F and with a mandrel press/drive out the bearing from the carrier, again BE CAREFUL when suporting the carrier!!!! 18) Clean all parts. 19) Now the bearing is about a .0035 PRESS fit in the carrier, you CANNOT just press it in cold, you MUST heat the carrier to get it in, there are 2 methods to do this a) heat carrier to 100 deg F and using a mandrell that touches only the outer part of the bearing press in the new bearing B) set a inside micrometer to .004 over the bearing size, then heat the carrier to around 150 deg F, at this point check size with the mike to make SURE the carrier is over the size of the bearing and drop the bearing into the carrier, it will slip right in with no force at all, HOWEVER if you goof up and it sticks 1/2 way you are screwed. 20) Replace the bearing retainer plate with the 4 bolts, if yours has it the small notch goes to the bottom, its a water drain, torque the bolts, 27 ft lbs 21) Very carefully suporting the inner bearing race only,press in the wheel hub to the stop, be careful not to hurt your new bearing. WATCH what you press on!!!!! 22) assemble in reverse order, center 1.25 nut torques to 340 ft,lbs. 23) make sure to torque all bolts/nut to the correct values and double check all bolts.nuts before driving As you can see this bearing was SHOT, 26,000 miles and sounded like road noise, it did not respond to any tests like a bad bearing at all, so check your bearings!!! Thanks to Jeremy at Imagine Auto for the quick service and the tips, you guys are great !! Good luck !! Do this repair at your own risk, this diy is just provided as a general guide.

This is a continuation from the front wheel bearing change. That was good practice for the rear of your car. Although i thought the rear was more difficult than the front but after i was done and found a couple of tricks that i will share, it might actually be easier. Having the right tools always make things go smoother. The B90-P2 tool i bought at http://www.samstagsales.com/Porsche.htm#axle Took only 3 days to get it. I was away at work for 4 days so the timing was perfect. Great service. Earlier this year people were wondering where to get the tools to take apart the electrical connectors. Well sams tag sales has all the Porsche tools needed. With the SIR TOOLS kit they sent me the catalog with all the speciality stuff. If you don't have an arsenal of basic tools i would recommend going to Sears. The prices are higher than a China Freight but Sears does treat their people well and nothing like supporting the american people right? Attached is a photo of a great tool set that has almost all that you need. It even comes with the 32mm large socket for the hub bolt. Aside from those tools you will need some larger wrenches. 21mm for the track arm. (Actually you don't have to take this apart...more later) But you do need some larger wrenches for the Sir Tools Kit. 1 and 1/16. Some allen key sockets. Best to get a set of 7 in metric. Sears also sells the Torx socket set too. You will need at least 2 torque wrenches. My trick for the 360 foot pound setting is later. Some plyers, punch, screwdriver set. Phillops, flat etc... Discount auto parts sells a paint can full of GunK degreaser. And has a tin to put the small bolts in. Great stuff. Don't drink it. If i forgot some i will post it further down. So lets get going... Have the car parked so you have lots of space to work around it. Back the car into the garage far enough so you have room to close the garage door if you need to make a run to the tool store. Don't ask me why i mention this! Set the parking brake, and remove the center cap. I pushed in an allen key and used a vice grip to pull it out. Pull hard. Get your long 4 foot bar, 32mm socket and loosen the axel bolt. You can even take it off all the way, it doesn't reall matter. Loosen the 5 lug bolts, 4 19mm and the third i hope you have the locking one. Jack the car up and put it up on stands. You will need to use the jack later and it just isn't safe to have your head under a car with just a hydraulic jack. Remove the wheel bolts and then the wheel, don't forget to use the factory supplied tool to help with the removal and installation of the wheel.

1.) Un-screw the one phillips head screw at top center of side air intake... 2.) The molded air duct and the intake grill are still attached by three delicate plastic tabs at the three points... The best way to remove this is gently insert your fingers through the grills into the intake at the points circled in red and gently try to free the tabs... All three points come forward towards you, but if one is stuck or gets caught it will break... 3.) Inside the drivers side air duct you will find a snorkle... The snorkle is added to most US cars for noise restrictions. Now this piece is attached by no screws or tabs, but it most likely will give you some troubles removing... The best way is to remove this, just grab a hold of the long snorkle (not the small dish on the end)... Now wiggle it from left to right and vice versa while pulling out towards you. This works, but might take a little effort. 4.) This is what the intake is going to look like after the snorkel is removed... Just carefully insert the three tabs back into their points... Make sure that all three are tightly in by pushing the airduct cover (not the grill)... Insert your 1 screw into top center of cover and you are done.

Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 1 set 996 352 949 03 Front Brake Pads - Porsche (Pagid "S" Pads - Dark Blue - T5104SRS14) 1 set 996 351 088 01 Front Vibration Dampers for Brake Pads (recommended) 2 ea 996 351 959 00 Front Pad Repair Kit (consisting of 2 bolts, springs and securing clips) 2 sets 996 612 365 00 Front and Rear Wear Sensors (if needed) 1 set 996 352 939 03 Rear Brake Pads - Porsche (Pagid "S" Pads - Dark Blue - T5105SRS14) 1 set 964 352 096 01 28 mm Rear Vibration Dampers for Brake Pads (recommended) 1 set 964 352 096 00 30 mm Rear Vibration Dampers for Brake Pads (recommended) 2 ea 996 352 959 00 Rear Pad Repair Kit (consisting of 2 bolts, springs and securing clips) Tools you will need: Jack 19 mm socket for wheel bolts Brake Parts Cleaner (do not use other cleaners) Needle Nose Pliers Punch (for driving the pins out) Hammer or soft mallet Caliper Spreader or large Water Pump Pliers Note: The brake pads must be replaced (both sets of pads per axle) if the brake pad warning indicator lights up, but no later than when there is a residual pad thickness of 2 mm. If brake pad wear is indicated by the warning light, the warning contact sensor (sender including wire and plug connection) must also be replaced. Replacing the warning contact sensor can be avoided by replacing the brake pads no later than when the pad thickness is 2.5 mm. Warning contact sensors with a worn wire core must be replaced. However, if only the plastic part of the warning contact is worn, replacement is not necessary. Also, do not disassemble the caliper when changing the vibration dampers (or painting the calipers) as Porsche does not sell inner seal kits. Jack up the vehicle at the lift points provided and remove the a wheel (you will need to do this for each wheel). Visually inspect the brake pads for wear. The wear limit is reached when the pad has a residual thickness of 2 mm (or less). Front Pad Replacement Remove the retainer (arrow) and extract the retainer pin inwards. Pull out the warning contact wire on the brake caliper and remove the warning contacts from the brake pad plates. Remove brake pads with a brake pad puller or use the water pump Pliers to spread the pads. (Photos are courtesy of Greg Heumann) Important Notes: Pull out brake pads together with the vibration dampers. If this is not possible (depending on wear of the brake pads), use a spatula to detach the vibration dampers from the brake pad plate before removing the pads. In both cases, first set back the brake pads as far as possible with the piston resetting fixture. If necessary, first remove some brake fluid by suction from the brake fluid reservoir. If necessary, carefully push back the piston to its original position. Fit new vibration dampers in the pistons. Do this by removing protective film from the vibration dampers before installation. Insert the brake pads. Caution: The pad backing plates (rear side of the brake pads) must not be greased. Note: If you are using Pagid (or some other 3rd party pads) you will likely have to drill the pad for the wear sensors. Just look at the old pads and drill the sensor holes in the same location. Fit new expanding spring, new retaining pin and new retainer (retaining bracket). These parts are available as a repair set and must be 'renewed' each time the pads are changed. Insert the warning contact wire and warning contacts. Firmly press the brake pedal several times with the vehicle stationary so that the brake pads assume their fit in accordance with the operating state. Next, check and, if necessary, correct the brake fluid level. Bedding in the brake pads New brake pads require a bedding-in period of approximately 125 miles. Not until then do they achieve their best friction and wear coefficient. During this period, the brakes should be subjected to full stress only in emergencies when traveling at high speed. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Rear Pad Replacement Remove the retainer (arrow) and extract the retainer pin inwards. Pull out the warning contact wire on the brake caliper and remove the warning contacts from the brake pad plates. Remove brake pads with a brake pad puller or use the Water pump Pliers to spread the pads. Important Notes: Pull out brake pads together with the vibration dampers. If this is not possible (depending on wear of the brake pads), use a spatula to detach the vibration dampers from the brake pad plate before removing the pads. In both cases, first set back the brake pads as far as possible with the piston resetting fixture. If necessary, first remove some brake fluid by suction from the brake fluid reservoir. If necessary, carefully push back the piston to its original position. Fit new vibration dampers in the pistons. There are 2 sizes of vibration dampers. The lower piston is 28 mm (smaller) and upper piston is 30 mm (larger). Be sure you get them in the right places. As you install them you will need to remove the protective film from the vibration dampers. Insert the brake pads. Note: The pad backing plates (rear side of the brake pads) must not be greased. Fit new expanding spring, new retaining pin and new retainer (retaining bracket). These parts are available as a repair set and must be 'renewed' each time the pads are changed. Insert the warning contact wire and warning contacts. Firmly press the brake pedal several times with the vehicle stationary so that the brake pads assume their fit in accordance with the operating state. Finally, check and, if necessary, correct the brake fluid level. Bedding in the brake pads New brake pads require a bedding-in period of approximately 125 miles. Not until then do they achieve their best friction and wear coefficient. During this period, the brakes should be subjected to full stress only in emergencies when traveling at high speed.

Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. (Edit - July 25, 2006 - Updated the clutch bleeding procedure to the latest procedure as outlined in supplement 98 of the Carrera Service Manual - Loren) Parts you will need: 1 liter (minimum) 000 043 203 66 Porsche DOT 4 Brake Fluid or equal (ATE Gold or ATE Super Blue) Tools you will need: Jack 19 mm socket for wheel bolts Motive Power Bleeder (or equal) image Needle Nose Pliers 11 mm wrench for brakes; 9 mm for clutch slave (sizes vary from car to car but they are usually 9 mm or 11 mm) Plastic tubing and waste container (at least 1 liter) Jack up the vehicle at the lift points provided and remove the rear wheel (you will need to do this for each wheel). Remove the cap on the master cylinder reservoir. Remove the plastic screen using a pair of needle nose pliers. This can be a little bit challenging but it will pop off (be careful with the brake fluid.. it eats paint!) Use a syringe (or turkey baster... just don't reuse it) and suck out as much of the old fluid as possible. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with new fluid. Put the rest in the power bleeder. Screw the cap that came with the power bleeder onto the master cylinder reservoir. Put the pressure cap with the pump handle on the power bleeder and pump it up to just under 20 psi - do not go over 20 psi! Bleed order - Right rear, Left rear, Right front, Left front. Place your drain tube over the outside bleed nipple and in the bottle (remember it will need to hold a liter when you are done). Bleed the outer bleeder valve first. Open each bleeder valve until clear, bubble free brake fluid emerges. Take care to bleed at each brake caliper and at both bleeder valves. Carefully tighten the bleed screw. Wipe off the area and replace the rubber protective cap over the bleed screw. Repeat steps 8-10 for the interior bleed screw. Then reinstall the wheel and move on to the next wheel. Note: It makes sense to check the pressure and amount of fluid in the tank between wheels. Running out of fluid means starting over and getting air out. Optional Clutch Bleeding This is best done when you are bleeding the left (driver's side) rear wheel as the clutch bleed valve is mounted high above the axle on the transmission. Push the clutch pedal in by hand (very slowly) and use a long piece of wood to hold the pedal down. I wedged the other end (of the wood) between the seat and door frame -- with plenty of soft padding to avoid scratches. A second option is to have a 2nd person sit in the car and keep the clutch pedal FULLY depressed. Open the clutch bleeder valve until clear, bubble free brake fluid emerges (at least 30 seconds according to Porsche). Remove the wood. Then, pump the pedal again very slowly by hand for a further 60 seconds. After pressing the pedal down fully about 10 to 15 times, leave the pedal in its normal position. After allowing a fill time of 90 seconds, check that no more air bubbles appear at the bleeder valve (use a collecting bottle with a transparent hose). Then close the bleeder valve. Wipe off the area and replace the rubber protective cap over the bleed screw. You may notice that the clutch pedal does not return... so carefully pull it up (slowly) to it's normal position. Then depress it (slowly) a few (at least 5) times. In a few cycles the feel should return. [*]Torque the wheels bolts to 96 ftlb. (130 Nm). [*]Do a final check on the brake fluid level and top up if needed.

Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 1 each 996 102 151 64 (or 996 102 151 66) Polyrib Belt (with air conditioning) or 1 each 996 102 151 65 Polyrib Belt (without air conditioning) Tools you will need: 13 mm socket or wrench (for air cleaner) Regular screwdriver (for air cleaner) 24 mm socket or wrench (for belt pulley) Remove air cleaner housing. Mark belt travel direction with a coloured pen (if you intend to reuse it). Note: Never remove Polyrib belt when warm. The belt will deform and could be damaged. Turn the tensioning roller 7 on the socket wrench (wrench size 24 mm) clockwise and simultaneously remove the belt from the drive pulleys. Visually inspect the condition of the belt and replace it if necessary. Check belt pulley for damage. Install Polyrib belt in the order shown. Twist the tensioning roller 7 clockwise and simultaneously place the belt on the idler pulley 8. Subsequently relieve the tensioning roller slowly. Visually check whether the belt is correctly positioned on all pulleys. Reinstall the air cleaner housing

Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 1 ea 996 110 131 52 Air Filter or equal (BMC or K&N Filter) Tools you will need: 13 mm socket or wrench Regular screwdriver Phillips screwdriver Remove hexagon-head bolt M6 x 34. (13 mm wrench) Loosen the hose clamp on the throttle body and remove the connection of the sucking jet pumps (not present on early cars). Pull connecting plug off the mass air flow sensor by squeezing the connector clips. Then unclip the cable on the air cleaner housing. Subsequently unclip the oil filler snorkel. Remove the whole air cleaner housing out of the engine compartment. Unscrew the 7 (phillips) fastening screws on the air cleaner housing and remove the upper part of the air cleaner. Subsequently remove the cleaner element. Clean air cleaner housing. Insert new filter element and replace the upper part of the air cleaner housing (BMC filter shown). Tighten the 7 fastening screws. Place the air cleaner housing in the engine compartment again. Make sure that the rubber mount of the air cleaner housing is still seated in the body. Tighten the air cleaner housing with the fastening screw M6 x 34, the screw is tightened with 7.5 ft-lb. Clip in oil filler neck again.. Reconnect the intake pipes on the throttle body. Retighten the hose clamp. Subsequently insert the connection for the sucking jet pump (again, if present) and mount the spring band clamp. Fit the connecting cable and clip into the holder on the air cleaner. Push the connecting plug on the mass air flow sensor.

The Tiptronic transmission has a special tool for fluid. First you have to purchase the tool (expensive) or make one (inexpensive). The tool is the V.A.G.1924, runs about $300. You need the following tools and parts to start: 1. ATF fill tool 2. 7 (US) Quarts of Pennzoil Multi-Vehicle ATF 3. Torque wrench for 60 ft lbs 4. Torque wrench for 7.5 ft lbs (90 in lbs) 5. 17 mm allen bit 6. 8 mm allen bit 7. Torx 27 bit 8. Temperature meter with probe. I used an Oregon Scientific with a probe that has a 10 ft cord. 9. Porsche part 986 397 016 00 Paper gasket (Call Sunset Porsche, great guys) 10. Porsche part 986 307 403 00 ATF filter 11. Porsche part 986 397 016 00 rubber ring for fill plug 12. Kitty liter, you will spill 13. Socket set 14. Plenty of rags 15. Oil catch pan 16. Safety goggles First we assemble the filling tool out of parts you can find in Lowes or Home Depot type of homestores: 1. Hudson 1 gallon tank ($9.95) 2. Barbed fittings and 8 ft of tygon 3/8 clear hose. 3. 1/4 inch shut off valve - brass 4. 12 inch of flexible copper tube, 1/4" 5. Assemble as shown below and bend the tube per the picture. The steps are easy to follow: 1. Lift car off the ground and on jack stands. I need 16 inches on the stands to be comfortable. 2. Slide oil catch pan under fluid pan and remove drain plug with 8 mm allen bit 3. Remove the cross arm that traverses the fluid pan. Loosen only one bolt, remove the other. It will be easier for the next step and you can prop the arm to help catch the pan when the bolts are removed. 4. When the fluid has drained, secure drain plug back in and torque to 30 ft lbs. 5. Using the Torx 27 bit, remove all the screws crosswise. Move the cross arm out of the way as needed, but put back in a place where the pan will not fall. THE PAN STILL HAS FLUID in it, be careful 6. Remove pan carefully. The green gasket should still be attached to it. 7. Remove the two screws that hold the filter in place. Make sure the oil catch pan is underneath, the filter will have fluid as well. Remove filter. 8. Thinly coat some petroleum jelly on the suction collar of the ATF filter and install filter 9. Install new filter and screw the two screws to a torque of 4.5 ft lbs. 10. Empty the filter pan into the oil catch pan with all the waste oil. Place the filter pan on a flat surface and remove the gasket. 11. Set the plastic guard cap so the two windows are facing sideways. The holes will be used later for the fill tube and for the temperature probe. Notice how large they are. 12. Use the rags to clean the pan and the magnets in the pan. Set the magnets back to their original location. Here is a nice clean pan and magnets. 13. Place the new gasket on the pan. I used petroleum jelly thin coat on a few places to hold it in place. 14. Fit ATF pan back into transmission, tighten the screws crosswise to 7.5 ft lbs. It may be convenient to use the cross arm as a resting place while you re-attach the pan. 15. Remove the fill plug with the 17 mm allen key. Replace the ring gasket with the new one. 16. Fill the pressure tank with ATF fluid, make sure the valve is closed. Pump the tank to provide the pressure to move the fluid. The clear hose will show the red fluid filling it, and also you will see it running later. 17. Insert the "hook" end of the copper tube into the fill hole, and hook it into one of the holes mentioned before. Insert the temperature probe into the other hole, make sure it is secured. 18. Open the valve and let the ATF fluid begin to flow. You will have to add more fluid to the tank and keep it pumped. When the fluid begins to escape through the hole. It will drip, so close the valve. 19. Start the car. Open the valve to let more fluid into the ATF pan. Keep it pumped. Look at the temperature display on your probe. The temperature should not exceed 45 C. It begins at room temperature, so you got a few minutes. 20. Move the selector to position "P" and let idle for a a few seconds. When the fluid begins to emerge again from the filler tube, close the filling valve. 21. The engine should still be idling, keep an eye on the temp probe. With the brake pedal on, change the transmission through each position, holding the position for 10 seconds. 22. Open fill valve again until ATF fluid escapes from the hole. Make sure the temperature is higher than 30 C, and should be around 40C by now. Remove temperature probe and filler tube. 23. Replace the filler plug and torque to 59 ft lbs. 24. Turn engine off, and take car out for a test. :drive: 25. You are done, check for leaks, clean the spills (cat litter), and enjoy some smooth shifting.