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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Realistically, if you are going to remove the IMS flange, you may as well do the IMS retrofit as you would also need new seals on the flange if you pull it. Once the flange is properly removed, you are less than 30 min. from completing a retrofit. Another small, but very salient point is that most people looking at their first IMS bearing really have no idea if it is tight, loose, or somewhere in between, and that would be best determined with it out of the shaft, which would preclude reusing it.
  2. Again, the bolts and washers/lack of washers varies with 986/996 and model years; Porsche is famous for changing bolt styles without notice. Just put em back as you found them.......
  3. Welcome to RennTech Most common problem is with the shifter itself or the cable coming loose at the gearbox. Further investigation is required.
  4. The Boxster and 996 bolt layouts are essentially the same, with the exception that some Boxsters left out one bolt from the factory. M10x40mm triplesquare (999-073-118-09) B- M12x1.5x100mm (999-072-010-09) C- M12x1.5x100mm (999-072-010-09) with 15x28x3.5 washer (N-905-028-02) D/G- M12x1.5x70mm (999-072-008-09) E/F- M12x1.5x90mm (999-072-009-09) H- M10 hex nut (900-377-011-09) attached to M10x30mm stud in transmission case (999-218-088-09) You also just discovered why we suggest DIY projects like this number the bolts with a silver marker before removing them.............................
  5. Exactly what Loren noted above, you probably need a new converter: P1192 - Torque Converter Lock-Up Clutch: Mechanical Malfunction Possible Symptoms Torque Converter Lock-Up Clutch slipping Possible Causes Torque Converter Lock-Up Clutch faulty Valve Body faulty Internal Failure in Transmission Possible Solutions Check Torque Converter Lock-Up Clutch Slip
  6. Yes, it should be running anytime the key is switched on.
  7. Yes, I have done transmission adaptation relearns using their software, we however use the more expensive "Pro" version, which has features that the "enthusiast" version does not have. We have had others tell us they have done it with the lesser version, and the Durametric feature matrix seems to support that.
  8. Welcome to RennTech The Durametric software (enthusiast version) will allow you to reset your transmission adaptation values once the problem is corrected. To reset the transmission adaptation, it would be listed under the "transmission" section in the main selection tree on the left, then either under "commands" or "reset". To my knowledge, disconnection of the battery will not reset this.
  9. You will need to get to the primary cable on the starter; depending upon how the vehicle is equipped, that can sometimes be done without pulling the intake. You are going to need to do a visual to see if you can get access.
  10. Your lobe wear does not look out of the ordinary. Cams are made from cast iron, and develop a shine or wear pattern over time; as long as there is not a ton of ferrous grit in the sump or oil filter, you are good to go.
  11. Rising resistance inside the primary cables. While this is a very common problem on 996 Porsches, and PCNA released a TSB and redesigned cables as the result, any primary cable can develop internal resistance which causes both a voltage and amperage drop, which can place a strain on electrical components like the starter. Testing for it is quite simple: You measure the voltage at the battery end, and then at the starter end; if the voltage drop is more than 0.5 Volt, the cable is toast and needs to be replaced.
  12. I would also be looking at voltage drop values on the primary battery cables.
  13. If the hard top did not sit on top of the clam shell, it would not be weather tight; so if it is sitting on the clamshell, it has to come off for the clamshell to move and allow the soft top to go far enough up to be put in the service position. Not a "stupid design" in the least as it gives owners that want four seasons use of the car winter protection the soft top cannot supply.
  14. You cannot get at the engine from above with the hard top installed, it has to come off.
  15. Same problem, the stiffer the mount, the more the vibration.
  16. Loren is spot on, if memory serves, that rubber plug is rather large and can easily accommodate a harness:
  17. The door card is the decorative panel that you see from inside the car, it's technical name is a door card:
  18. Congratulations, you have just discovered why these mounts are not for the street. If you really want to get the maximum detrimental effect of these things, you should have added a lightweight single mass flywheel. We had a customer come in with complaints about noise and vibrations in a 996 with the semi solid mounts and lightweight flywheel already installed, and when I test drove the car it vibrated so bad I couldn't see where I was going just going down the road. And prolonged performance driving use of them can also weaken or crack the engine cases, which is why the RS and RSR factory race cars still carry rubber mounts. Not all aftermarket "performance" ideas are good ones.............
  19. Duncan is correct. As I understand it, the DME and immobilizer box have to both "handshake" (acknowledge each other) and then communicate certain data in order for the car to start; it takes a lot more than just some electrical current to make it happen, otherwise there would be a lot of missing Porsches............
  20. Just to put this to bed: We get quite a few 996/997 through the shop on a day in, day out basis; and the ONLY ones that smell of fuel have something wrong, the rest are stink free.
  21. CPS is the Crank Position Sensor, which is mounted on the side of the bell housing. You should had a decent technical reference source like the Bentley service manual for the 996. Your fuel system should retain 3.8+/- 0.2 bar (around 55 psig) with the engine off, and sow 3.3 +/- 0.2 bar (48 psig) running at an idle. With the engine off, your fuel pump should deliver 850 ml of fuel in 30 seconds.
  22. OK, from your description, the car sounds like it has a fuel issue, which means either the pump is going south, or the CPS is defective and preventing the fuel pump from running correctly. Just because the pump makes noise does not mean it is delivering the correct pressure or volume of fuel to run the injectors, the pump and CPS need to be tested, as CPS problems are often intermittent.
  23. It would not be the first time........
  24. It sounds like you have a failing heater core. This can be confirmed by pressure testing the cooling system, which should not hold if the heater core is failing. If it is bad, it is not a bad DIY job to replace it as it pulls up and out from under the front hood. Good luck.
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