Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,851
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    210

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. You could have the battery load tested, but if it is below 12V, it is probably toast.
  2. The responsibility for what you do with your tools in your shop rests with you, so that is an option. Shops regularly are approached about disabling all sorts of mandated systems, like TPMS, seat belts, air bags, etc.; and simply will not get involved because if someone get injured, the shop is the "deep pockets" in the liability equation.
  3. I would be willing to bet the sleeves are an iron alloy rather than steel, which would destroy the pistons in no time. There is another alternative in the LN Engineering "Nickies" aluminum allow liners; they are much stronger than the factory units, and do not have the issue of using dissimilar metals in an alloy engine case. Not cheap, but they do work.
  4. You are correct in your assumption, but many dealers or equipped independents won't do it for liability reasons (you would be disabling a mandated safety system and can be held liable for injuries resulting from doing so).
  5. Afraid I cannot agree. While switching from another oil to the DT40 would benefit from a pre flush to remove any remaining old oil, it is not absolutely necessary. Within on to two oil changes, any residual from the old oil would be removed by normal dilution and evacuation. We have a lot of customers using DT40, and more than 90% chose to go with a simple oil change over the pre flush method, without any noticeable effect either in the engine or their UOA analysis when compared to those that chose the pre flush method. Based upon that, if you want to go "belt & suspenders", do a pre flush; other wise just do a compete drain and refill. As for total ZDDP levels, we often find UOA's on DT40 after 5-6 K miles demonstrate a higher ZDDP level than virgin Mobil products right out of the bottle.
  6. With the multimeter still hooked up to the car, try pulling the fuses one at a time until you hit the one causing the draw.
  7. A good smoke test unit is upwards of $1.5K, so I would consider doing what Loren says and take it to a shop with one.
  8. Gibbs DT 40 is a 5W-40 oil with exceptional film strength and very high ZDDP levels to reduce further wear. You really do not want to run excessively heavy weight oils as they will effect how the VarioCam system function. Stick with the DT40.
  9. That could be difficult from Porsche, they do not make many of them available separately. Most are VW parts, so I would find a friendly VW parts person and buy them a six pack. You could also try the bone yards as well.
  10. That could be difficult from Porsche, they do not make many of them available separately. Most are VW parts, so I would find a friendly VW parts person and buy them a six pack. You could also try the bone yards as well.
  11. Many dealerships to not do IMS retrofits as Porsche's "official position" is that you cannot change out the bearing without taking the engine apart; and many of those that do take the engine apart replace the shaft with one that uses the oversized non serviceable bearing. So I would not consider a dealer unless they are on LN Engineering's list of installers. $3K should get you an LN Engineering hybrid bearing, a new RMS, and a complete new clutch assembly, probably with some money left over.
  12. It is a total crap shoot without knowing how bad the situation really is.
  13. P0077: Valve lift control driver, above limit value P0086 Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit High (Bank 2) P0010 "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1) P0020 "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 2) P0175 System too Rich (Bank 2) P0171 System too Lean (Bank 1) The rest are misfire codes. Needless to say, this is an odd mix of codes.
  14. What codes were you getting? Codes thrown as the result of a true fault will return if the fault is not corrected.
  15. A rebuild is going to be very expensive, first because you need to have it done by a specialty shop, and second because the engine will need all new liners, which ain't cheap.
  16. The only two proven ways to detect cylinder problems are bore scoping or leak down values. Bore scoping is actually preferred, but not everyone has the tool. Every time we get a PPI for one of these vehicles, we include both tests, particularly if the oil is obviously thick and new. Good luck.
  17. Welcome to RennTech I would do a leak down on the engine. We have seen several of these vehicles that were sold with heavier weight oil in them because one or more cylinders walls were out of round or scored, and had piston slap that they wanted to quiet the engine before trading or selling the car. And long before I would put your oil of choice in it, I would switch the engine to Gibbs DT40 (much better film strength and very high ZDDP levels).
  18. Most every owner want to do what is best for their engines; but unfortunately, sometimes "the view isn't worth the climb". If you are not having issues, and are not ready to drop the engine and tear it apart, this may be one of those times. That said, if you have not yet addressed your IMS, that would be a far better place to spend your time and effort.
  19. Welcome to RennTech Problem with the IMS is its lack of predictability. By the time the engine shows signs that it is dying, it is already too late as the engine is full of finely ground metal and has to come apart. By far, the better approach is to look for signs of failure (metal in the oil or filter, etc.) during a full PPI, and if none is found, plan on doing a proactive IMS retrofit as soon as you buy the car. As mentioned elsewhere, LN Engineering lead the market in the having the proven best IMS retrofit solution's to put your mind and ease.
  20. The PIWIS factory computer is available only by lease, and starts at nearly $20K for the first year. Hardly practical for a one time diagnostic and programing effort. The Durametric system can be had for less than $300 direct from Durametric.
  21. If you are running decent quality oil, do regular maintenance, and have not altered the valve train, your chains should run for a long time. From years of experience, the only time we have seen the chains fail in these engine's was when something else died first, causing the chain to break, not the other way around. For the most part, they seem to run for ever and are one of the least problematic components in the M96 engine.
  22. Welcome to RennTech Year and model are always helpful when answering this type of question.............
  23. We have not been a fan of master link style chains for these cars, primarily as the chain is a bear to replace with the engine in the car (it is unimaginably worse than trying to build a ship in a bottle), and the longevity of the master link assembly itself. Pull the engine and do a proper chain swap, along with any other needed/wanted updates at the same time. Overall, you will probably end up saving time, and you will know the new chain is solid.
  24. Welcome to RennTech It always helps to have the model and year of the car when asking this type of question as the cars vary over time. More than likely, your locking issue is related to the water immersion as the locking and security systems are controlled by a small computer located under the driver's seat on most models. Sometimes this box can be dried out, but not always.
  25. It is a one way valve that is in the end of the cam cover that opens under vacuum. I would also seriously consider running a leak down on the engine that develops pressure; if you have a bad ring in one or more cylinders, or the more common out of round cylinder liners, your problem is more serious. You should not have pressure in the cases while the engine is running.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.