JFP in PA

Please post in English if possible. Try this: "can someone give me a tip on the fault codes P0082 porsche cayenne turbo 2011 in which the solution?"

First of all, it is always helpful to provide the car's year and model in these inquiries. Assuming it is a Cayenne: P0421 Catalytic conversion, bank 1 – above limit value Possible cause of fault - Oxygen sensors in front of and behind catalytic converter are interchanged - Catalytic converter faulty . P0431 Catalytic conversion, bank 2 – above limit value Possible cause of fault - Oxygen sensors in front of and behind catalytic converter are interchanged - Catalytic converter faulty. A little light reading on the subject of O2 readings and state of the cats (from a Boxster diagnostics manual, but the technology is the same): You need to go back to your Durametric system and pull up the graphical display of the before and after cat voltages to see if they are following each other; if they are, you need new cats. Thanks for the info, sorry it is a 2004 Base model, it says that on the excel file but people might miss it. The problem is I don't think Durametric can do the upstream O2's unless I'm missing something, I can't find that selection to include in the analysis graphing, do you know for sure it is there? Positive, it should be in the actual values under the engine sections. These curves were generated off a 996 with a bad cat on one side using the Durametric software:

First of all, it is always helpful to provide the car's year and model in these inquiries. Assuming it is a Cayenne: P0421 Catalytic conversion, bank 1 – above limit value Possible cause of fault - Oxygen sensors in front of and behind catalytic converter are interchanged - Catalytic converter faulty . P0431 Catalytic conversion, bank 2 – above limit value Possible cause of fault - Oxygen sensors in front of and behind catalytic converter are interchanged - Catalytic converter faulty. A little light reading on the subject of O2 readings and state of the cats (from a Boxster diagnostics manual, but the technology is the same): You need to go back to your Durametric system and pull up the graphical display of the before and after cat voltages to see if they are following each other; if they are, you need new cats.

The value is simple: I am unaware of anyone running without the seal having an IMS failure.

To remove the seal, you need to go through all the steps required to do an IMS retrofit (eninge locked at TDC, cams locked, tensioners removed, etc.), and then simply use a tool like a dental pick to pop the seal out:

As it damage is within the tread width area, it can be repaired.

Please do not double post, it is against forum rules.

The budget range for an IMS retrofit on your car is actually a fairly wide number for several reasons. As it is a 2005 car, it could either be carrying the single row serviceable (read replaceable) IMS bearing, or it could have the oversized last design, which cannot be changed out without totally disassembling the engine. If the car is a serviceable single row (which can only be determined by pulling the trans out and looking), you have the option of going with the LN single row ceramic hybrid bearing, the newer LN "Pro" dual row ceramic hybrid replacement for the single row, or the LN IMS Solution, which replaces the OEM IMS with an oil fed solid bearing design, and which is the only true permanent replacement. For budget numbers, assume you will be putting in a new clutch at the same time, and replacing the RMS, regardless of which bearing is chosen. For the LN single row, or the newer Pro, a good budget number would be in the $2-3K range, all in. Moving to the Solution, the number is going to rise to $3-4K range due to the additional labor and considerably higher parts costs. You should also be aware that if you went with the LN Pro bearing, the shop has to have the special Faultless installation tooling to install it, it should not be attempted with the tools used for the conventional bearings. If the car is carrying the last design that cannot be retrofitted without engine disassembly, realistically all you can do is to remove the rear oil seal on the OEM bearing and reassemble the car. This would have you back in the $1.5-2K range. While shopping around on something this expensive is usually a good idea, you should really be concerned about how the shop is equipped, and how many retrofits they have done. You really do not want to have someone that is less expensive, but inexperienced or poorly equipped to handle the job.

Going to be a dealer item, board sponsor Sunset Porsche, or use their online search system http://www.porschepartshub.com/

Daytime running lights are programmable using the PIWIS diagnostics system. The reference you have is how they are set using the PIWIS.

Glad we could be of help. For future reference, there is an outfit (http://liftbars.com/) that makes lift bars which insert in the factory lift points and that allow you to pickup the entire side of your car at one time, and which have a unique way to allow the bar to pivot on a common jack stand without slipping: We have no affiliation with this firm, but a customer had these at the track and they worked well and were very solidly made. Because they can raise the entire car fairly quickly, and get it up pretty high as well, the look like something a serious DIY'er without a lift might consider.

That look like what you need. You might want to also try board sponsor Sunset Porsche (http://www.porschepartshub.com/) for pricing.

I cannot see the images you posted. We normally pull vacuum for 30 min., then test hold it for another 15. As for oil, the entire system should hold 195-/+ 15 ml of the ND 8 fluid. I'm not at the shop at the moment, but if memory serves, the OEM service manual set has a list of the amounts of oil contained in each component for make up purposes.

Do not let the gas simply escape to the environment, that is both environmentally unfriendly, and in many states outright illegal. Take it to shop that can properly recover the gas for recycling, You should not have to replace the dryer as long as you keep the system closed as much as possible while replacing the damaged lines.

As long as your AC system is shut off, nothing will happen, but your AC system will probably not function properly when it gets hot outside, and you could also be placing the compressor at risk running it this way. The system needs to have the 134A removed and captured, the damaged line(s) replaced, and the system recharged and tested.

Glad the outcome was a good one, nothing like some diagnostic testing to confirm or deny a problem.

Guys, it does not matter one iota when the car was built. We have seen very early 2000 cars with single row bearings, and others with dual row bearings. For that matter, I personally own two 2001 cars since they were new, one is a single row, the other a dual row. 2000-2001 is a total crap shoot as to what bearing you will find, build dates for either the car or the engine have never proven useful for this purpose, which is why you need to take them apart before you really know what you are dealing with.

That would probably require some elaborate reprogramming, which would not be easy, and becomes questionable from a liability standpoint as you are involving mandated safety systems. Surely no different to putting a load resister across the LED though? Effectively fooling the canbus into thinking there is a filament bulb in place. Do you know if the left/right brake lights are monitored separately or is the message I am getting because either/both are 'out'? You are correct concerning adding a resistor to the light circuits, but it needs to match the LED to the factory light's resistance. I do not believe they are monitored separately, as you get the same indication if one or both are out.

That would probably require some elaborate reprogramming, which would not be easy, and becomes questionable from a liability standpoint as you are involving mandated safety systems.

I have no idea if that would help.

LED's have very little internal resistance, which is why they are so bright on the same voltage; some manufacturer's of aftermarket kits offer add on resistor kits specifically to address this problem. The reason you get the error on the brake lights is they are a mandated safety system, so they are monitored. I'd suggest contacting the manufacturer and see if they offer a kit for this issue.

Closed

Quite often, putting LED lights on a vehicle that was not so equipped from the factory results in error codes because the LED's do no exhibit the same circuit resistance as the OEM lights, making the system think a bulb is burned out. this can usually be overcome by adding the correct type of resistor to the electrical circuit.

Please do not double post, it is against the forum rules you agreed to when you joined.

The DME should be in your rear boot, behind a trim panel.