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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    The PDF states that the engine should be warmer than 62C. 0.9 Bar ( or about 26.6 inches of mercury) vacuum on the fuel pressure regulator seems a bit high, I would normally expect about 15 inches.
  2. JFP in PA
    The 3.6L engine is lowered in a Boxster due to the manifold height, you would not need to do that with a bored out engine because the manifold would not be as tall as the 3.6L unit.
  3. JFP in PA
    Sure, either pull the fuel pump fuse or the fuel pump relay, either one will prevent the car from starting.
  4. JFP in PA
    OK, this is going to be a bit complicated. You did not mention what type of scan tool was used, but P0341 is for an implausible signal from the cam position sensor on bank #1, it is not necessarily the sensor, but more commonly a break in the wiring or a short. P1313, 1314, and 1315 are not applicable codes to a 98 Boxster with a 5.2.2 DME. P1340 is for the cam position on bank #1 being out of position high. P1397 is for the cam position sensor on Bank #2 having an implausible signal or again a wiring break or short. P0150 is for the O2 sensor ahead of the three way on bank #2 having a wiring harness short or loose connector. A this considered, it looks like you have a wiring problem. Suggest hooking the car up to either a Durametric system, PIWIS, or PST II and look at cam deviation values (read by the cam position sensors), the O2 sensor voltages, and can also activate the VarioCam system to make sure they are even involved in all this. You also posted this in the wrong forum (this is the 996, not the 986 forum).
  5. JFP in PA
    If you can get access to the Bentley 996 manual, starting on page 87-11 you will find step by step instructions with photos and diagrams.
  6. JFP in PA
    Depending upon what is causing it, it may clear. A better idea would be to scan the car with a Porsche specific system (PIWIS, Durametric), see what the problem is, and reset what ever is annoyed. Should only take a few min. of shop time.
  7. JFP in PA
    Not all the "awesome" or even rare, lists for about $1K. They are a common tool used by engine builders to check the displacement of engines that they are doing for racing classes where displacement volume is mandated and checked, and the same tool that is used by the sanctioning body like NHRA to make sure the engines on winning cars are correct:
  8. JFP in PA
    Easy, the resistance rating for that cable when new is a fraction of an ohm per thousand linear feet of cable. So a cable with a problem may only be showing a very small increase in internal resistance over its length of just a couple of feet. To see it, you need to set the meter to its lowest ohm setting (milliohms would be best) at full scale.
  9. JFP in PA
    Correct, but there is a micro switch inside the latch mechanism that has to "open" in order for the top motor to start the retraction. It is a safety device to prevent the top motor from running while the top is still latched. I think that switch is either stuck or broken.
  10. JFP in PA
    Often a contributing factor, but based upon experience, he also has air in the system.
  11. JFP in PA
    One quick way to find the displacement is to located a shop equipped with a PG displacement test device (you thread a line into one cylinder spark plug and spin the motor over, the device measures the volume of air displaced by that cylinder, multiply by 6 and you have the displacement). Race engine shops and sanctioning bodies use these things to make sure race cars are within the displacement rules, so they are pretty accurate.
  12. JFP in PA
    Like all other OEM's, Porsche tries to make these cars idiot resistant as possible. Unfortunately, God seems to side with the idiots, who regularly find ways to circumvent what the engineers have done. I could easily bore you with hours of stories of what we have seen people do to these cars, sometimes destroying either the engine of even totaling the car in the process. So, blowing the CV boots off the car is just another day at the shop; I am never amazed at what we see, it seems "stupid" is a fact of life............
  13. JFP in PA
    RFM is correct; we see a lot of problems with air trapped in these cars after a DIY repair or maintenance on the cooling system. It is often difficult for people to get all the air out of these systems without using a vacuum filling system, particularly the Tip equipped cars, which have a oil to water cooler on the trans that is part of the cooling system loop.
  14. JFP in PA
    It is sounding more a more like the latch needs to be looked at and checked both mechanically and electrically.
  15. JFP in PA
    I don't know about that, we have had customers actually blow the CV boots right off the car while cleaning the underside with a power washer. And, as I noted earlier, we do not see any more wheel bearing failures on 986/987/996/997 cars than we do on other makes; the bearings are pretty sturdy on these cars. And while they are designed to deal with rain and road salt, I'm reasonably sure they did not consider what would happen to them when their seals get hit with a 3,200 PSI steam of water and detergent.......
  16. JFP in PA
    As I said in an earlier post, flushing the engine is not going to get all the metal out; we have seen several people try this, and it has never worked. From the photos you posted, you have a major problem based upon the amount and type of metal debris in your engine. The metal is coming from someplace, and there are several possible things that can be causing this, but they are all speculation until the engine is out and apart so that the exact problem(s) can be seen. You cannot take short cuts like a bore scope, because it simply cannot reach and see everything. Because of the design of these engine's, even if you pull the sump cover, you still can't see the critical rotating assembly items like the crank or rods. You need to shut the car off, park it, and do some serious decision making. Your current engine is most likely gone, but at this juncture, you still have a viable core engine; however if you keep messing with it and it finally lets go catastrophically, you will have valueless a boat anchor. It only takes one bit of metal grit to sufficiently tear up a bearing shell and it will all be over in a heart beat, and that would be the one bit of metal you could not flush out.
  17. JFP in PA
    First of all, you should not be smelling fuel, something is not right. As on your car, the fuel tank is just ahead of the windshield, it sounds like you have a leak somewhere in the tank system that is expelling fumes if not liquid fuel. Add in that you appear to be suffering a fuel pressure bleed down, which is causing your hot start issues, you seriously need to get this looked at before something nasty happens. It may still be the fuel pump/sender unit. If you are uncomfortable trying to sort this, take it to a pro.
  18. JFP in PA
    There is a micro switch in the top latch in the center of the windshield that tells the system when the top is up and closed all the way, I would bet they did something to it when trying to do the windshield. If that switch is manually depressed, the top will not operate There is also a top calibration procedure that may now need to be done as well.
  19. JFP in PA
    There have been several excellent DIY brake replacement threads, most with the information you seek. "Search" is your friend............
  20. JFP in PA
    I think you can stick a fork in that one.......................
  21. JFP in PA
    These are "interference engines", meaning that if the timing jumps, pistons can start hitting valves and doing lots of damage. When the cam timing is correct, the internal components are so close that the engines should only be rotated in a clockwise manner to prevent problems; and as little as 12 degrees out of time can result in bent metal at a minimum.
  22. JFP in PA
    What I would consider having checked is the car's alignment, just to be sure it is going down the road straight.
  23. JFP in PA
    Thanks logray. I finally spoke to another mechanic and then looked at it myself to separate what has actually happened and what is conjecture. This is what I know for certain: (1) The left tensioner is only slightly worn at the tip (like someone scrubbed it with steel wool), (2) The "timing notch" where the tensioner was located appeared to be off by 5 degrees or so (to the right). (3) According to the mechanic, the timing jumped when he removed the tensioner. (4) I turned the car on just long enough to back it into my garage and the engine sounds horrible. Based on what I am learning, I can't imagine that the chain guide would have come off because I would have either heard it happen (never heard anything unusual) and the car would immediately be undriveable (which was not the case until the mechanic replaced the tensioner). For a complete car novice, how hard is it to remove the cam covers to get a better look? Yikes! You should not be even turning the engine over by hand if you think the timing has jumped, much less running it. And resetting the cam timing is not just a matter of pulling the cam covers to get a better look; it requires both experience and some special tooling at a minimum. Do to the constricted engine bay on a 996, it is going to be easier to do this with the engine out of the car. At this juncture, you need to have the car flat bedded to someone that really knows what they are doing; no offense, but this is not a job for amateurs.
  24. JFP in PA
    Yeah I've been aware of that, but they have a clause under the Business Conditions for "Authorized Companies" that appears to exclude someone like me getting access. I know in many cases companies say that and don't enforce it, but I'd prefer not to go up on the wrong side of Porsche's legal team ;) Don't see why not; others have gotten subscriptions, and RennTech also specifically discourages any miss use of intellectual property, like having someone copy it for you.
  25. JFP in PA
    Porsche stopped publishing manuals and wiring diagrams several years ago; you can buy what you need by the page, or by a time based subscription to their technical database at Porsche PIWIS TSI: https://techinfo2.porsche.com/PAGInfosystem/VFModuleManager?Type=GVOStart
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