JFP in PA

OK, as that is the way we have been doing 2002+ 996 Tips since they first showed up, then let's start again with the basics: What year and model is the car?

You do not fill thru either A or B, on a 2002 and later car you fill it via the charging valve (looks like an AC charging port at the corner of the trans sump) using a special hose with a fitting for the charging port until the fluid comes out of port B with the car running and fluid at around 40C. If you have aces to a Bentley manual, look at page 37-12 and all will be revealed.........

It is possible, but with that little wire left you may be better off just replacing it with a new one. The two screws are all that is holding it in.

There is a special tool, but you don't really need it if you follow Mike Rentner's really good set of DIY Litronics install instructions that have been around for a quite a bit, but may help to clear things up: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/box_litronic/litronic_pg1a.htm

OK, the P0175 is often a code often caused by something as simple as the fluid level being a little too low; are you sure the fluid level is correct? If the fluid level is correct, the speed sensor in question is mounted to a conductor plate on the top of the valve body in the transmission: Thanks.... Hi JFP, the thing is that the dealer replaced transmission and differential fluid in January using their highly precise method for doing so....by the book so as to speak, and I have tile flooring in my garage and would have seen leaks....so I'm thinking the valve body may be shot - hopefully it doesn't mean a full rebuild or reman unit :- I would still check the fluid level first, it would not be the first time I've seen a car right out of the dealer's that was low on fluid. Checking is a bit convoluted due to where the transmission is, but can still be done as a DIY; do a search in the archives for servicing the Tiptronic, it has been written up more than once. The speed sensor itself may be the only thing that needs changing, but unfortunately that entails removing the valve body to get at it. Not hard, but not fun either. JFP: dealer called back. The fluid is ok, it appears to be speed sensor which is in the valve body or the TCU or both. They said valve body is a $2500 or so part. Now the problem is that I don't think they can just change the speed sensor - appears they'd replace the whole valve body. If I were to just replace speed sensor n3, where can I buy such a part and how much would it cost? If i were to have to replace entire valve body do you know where I can buy it and cost? Thanks Both items are Porsche parts, suggest contacting Sunset Porsche in Beaverton, OR (503.641.8600) for pricing. VW and Mercedes also use the same parts as well. ok - called Sunset Porsche, they are saying that the valve body can be ordered, but that there are other parts like solenoids that can be ordered separately - he couldn't find an item called a speed sensor or rpm sensor on the transmission. Do you by any chance have an idea what the part number for just the speed sensors could be, or am I better off just buying the valve body? thanks No, I don't have the part numbers at hand, but I did do some research and found this: P0715 Speed comparison n2 with n3 implausiblePossible cause of fault- Short circuit to B+/ground/between wires or open circuit- Speed sensor n2 or n3 faulty- Tiptronic control unit faultyNote: The speed sensors are housed in the electrical part of the hydraulic control unit. If a speed sensor is faulty, the complete electrical part of the hydraulic control unit must be replaced. So it looks like the entire electrical section, often called the conductor plate, has to be changed out as the sensors are not available by themselves anymore. This device sits on top of the valve body, but is separate from it. You may want to now go back to Sunset and ask about the electrical section and see if that comes by itself or if you need to buy it with the valve body.

If the engine was other wise fine, don't write it off until you can get it flat bedded and run some diagnostics. Poor leak down values are not good; if the engine is not smoking like a champ, it could be a bad valve spring which is completely fixable. Suggest getting it to somewhere where you can confirm the leak down data, and then bore scope that cylinder, looking for any signs of damage. If all is good, the head will need to come off to fix it, so it would be worthwhile to pull both and go through them to make sure none of the other springs are headed south. By far, the easiest way to do this is to drop the engine, which would also allow you to update any other bits (clutch, RMS, IMS, AOS, etc.) that are more of a pain with the engine in. This is not that bad a project, but I know it sounds that way, and yes, it can be done with the car on jack stands.

OK, the P0175 is often a code often caused by something as simple as the fluid level being a little too low; are you sure the fluid level is correct? If the fluid level is correct, the speed sensor in question is mounted to a conductor plate on the top of the valve body in the transmission: Thanks.... Hi JFP, the thing is that the dealer replaced transmission and differential fluid in January using their highly precise method for doing so....by the book so as to speak, and I have tile flooring in my garage and would have seen leaks....so I'm thinking the valve body may be shot - hopefully it doesn't mean a full rebuild or reman unit :- I would still check the fluid level first, it would not be the first time I've seen a car right out of the dealer's that was low on fluid. Checking is a bit convoluted due to where the transmission is, but can still be done as a DIY; do a search in the archives for servicing the Tiptronic, it has been written up more than once. The speed sensor itself may be the only thing that needs changing, but unfortunately that entails removing the valve body to get at it. Not hard, but not fun either. JFP: dealer called back. The fluid is ok, it appears to be speed sensor which is in the valve body or the TCU or both. They said valve body is a $2500 or so part. Now the problem is that I don't think they can just change the speed sensor - appears they'd replace the whole valve body. If I were to just replace speed sensor n3, where can I buy such a part and how much would it cost? If i were to have to replace entire valve body do you know where I can buy it and cost? Thanks Both items are Porsche parts, suggest contacting Sunset Porsche in Beaverton, OR (503.641.8600) for pricing. VW and Mercedes also use the same parts as well.

The new DME will have to be coded with the IPAS code data from your current unit to work correctly with the other components in the car; that entails either a PST II or PIWIS unit and someone that knows what they are doing. You will also loose your current total mileage as that is specifically not changeable. Going with everything from another car would skip the programing, but you would still have the mileage issue and you would have to change the key pills over to your keys. I would think that just swapping the DME would be the most economical route.

OK, the P0175 is often a code often caused by something as simple as the fluid level being a little too low; are you sure the fluid level is correct? If the fluid level is correct, the speed sensor in question is mounted to a conductor plate on the top of the valve body in the transmission: Thanks.... Hi JFP, the thing is that the dealer replaced transmission and differential fluid in January using their highly precise method for doing so....by the book so as to speak, and I have tile flooring in my garage and would have seen leaks....so I'm thinking the valve body may be shot - hopefully it doesn't mean a full rebuild or reman unit :- I would still check the fluid level first, it would not be the first time I've seen a car right out of the dealer's that was low on fluid. Checking is a bit convoluted due to where the transmission is, but can still be done as a DIY; do a search in the archives for servicing the Tiptronic, it has been written up more than once. The speed sensor itself may be the only thing that needs changing, but unfortunately that entails removing the valve body to get at it. Not hard, but not fun either.

I just realized that you expect to get the new cables under warranty, which you will not unless the dealer does it under goodwill. There is a TSB which tells the dealer that the cables have been updated with a new part number to correct the earlier problems, but it is a TSB, not a recall, so it is informational only. Start a conversation with your service manager, but I'm pretty he may tell you that unless they can confirm an existing problem, they will not replace the cables for free...............

OK, that makes a lot of sense, thank you. I agree (now) that there was nothoing wrong with the sensors :) Based on a thread I read I would need to either replace the valve I purchased, or another valve ( http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=996-110-129-06-M100&catalog_description=&Regeneration%2520Valve%2520from%2520Throttle%2520Body%2520for%2520Fuel%2520Vapor%2520System%252C%2520Boxster%252FBoxster%2520S%2520%2528%2531%2539%2539%2537%252D%2530%2534%2529%252C%2520Each%2520 ) which I think is the one that runs under the intake previously mentioned. -Eric Picture is a bit poor, but that looks like the item. You should also blow air into the purge air line (item#3 in diagram): Thanks for the diagram. It's strange, I found this thread (http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/33970-strange-whistling-sound/?hl=%2Bstrange+%2Bwhistling+%2Bsound) last night and it references the valve I purchased being located basically behind the passenger side headlight. I think his was a MY '00, did they change things that much year over year? Thanks for all your help, it's been helpful. -Eric The drawing I gave you is from the 2001 OBD II diagnostics manual for the 986 Boxster, and is current and correct to my knowledge. But I need to point out that Loren is correct, there are valves at the EVAP canister, which is in the passenger's wheel well, as well us under the intake manifold; you need to be sure about which valve you are asking about, there is more than one..............and the one pictured in the thread you brought up is at the canister while the purge valve is under the intake runners.........

Try TSB 8/06 0101 Breakdowns Due To Loose Ground Strap -- dated Sep 13, 2006.

OK, that makes a lot of sense, thank you. I agree (now) that there was nothoing wrong with the sensors :) Based on a thread I read I would need to either replace the valve I purchased, or another valve ( http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=996-110-129-06-M100&catalog_description=&Regeneration%2520Valve%2520from%2520Throttle%2520Body%2520for%2520Fuel%2520Vapor%2520System%252C%2520Boxster%252FBoxster%2520S%2520%2528%2531%2539%2539%2537%252D%2530%2534%2529%252C%2520Each%2520 ) which I think is the one that runs under the intake previously mentioned. -Eric Picture is a bit poor, but that looks like the item. You should also blow air into the purge air line (item#3 in diagram):

OK, the P0175 is often a code often caused by something as simple as the fluid level being a little too low; are you sure the fluid level is correct? If the fluid level is correct, the speed sensor in question is mounted to a conductor plate on the top of the valve body in the transmission:

Perhaps you need to be more specific on which valve you are talking about - as the one in this thread is the one on the canister. What was your fault code(s)? I ordered part# 99660521301 based on reading a couple threads and getting the P0446 code on my car. I have replaced both sensors in front of the pre cats, still getting the P0446 and also P1128 & P1130. I saw a couple threads here refernceing this valve as well as the one under the intake manifold. Also when I fill up with gas the car is very hard to start, I have to crank it several times and also use the gas pedal, making me think the evap tank valve may be the better choice to replace. I welcome any suggestions. -Eric Fill up problems are usually related to the flapper in the fill neck which is totally unrelated to your issues, do a search as it is often as simple as a blown fuse. P0446 is for high flow resistance in the EVAP canister, usually associated with blocked purge air line. Replacing the O2 sensors was a common mistake for the P1128 and 1130 codes, which is an indication of an overly lean condition caused by intake air leaks or low fuel delivery problems causing the engine to run overly lean, there was nothing wrong the sensors.

I think you are referring to the tank venting valve (item #20 in the diagram) is under the driver's side intake runners, near the throttle body:

Rather than go through all this experimentation, how about simply getting the system (and the cap) pressure tested? Takes about 15 min. and will positively confirm or deny a leak.............

See if the codes return or if they were just ghost codes. It recently came to light that some Cayenne's came equipped with a DME from a different manufacturer (Siemens if memory serves) that cause some weird diagnostics problems with the Durametric software, so you might want to check with Durametric as I understand they have a beta software version that offers a work around for these issues on vehicles equipped this DME.

The ignition switch electrical section failure can cause no end of weird problems, ranging from odd MIL lights, to DME codes, and to entire car systems that cease to function and then suddenly come back to life. Fortunately, the fix is cheap (the electrical section of the switch retails for less than $20) and an easy DIY project that has been the subject of multiple write ups both here and on other sites.

Some Cayenne's came with a different DME (different manufacturer), which leads to diagnostics issues. Durametric knows about it and has a different software version that is a work around for these vehicles. Give them a call.

It is my understanding that the DME supplies both the diagnostics function, and controls how much the lights move and when they move according to input signals from the suspension sensors. I have no idea how the lights are going to behave if you bypass the DME.

No you will not; the retrofit kit gives you the ability to have the low beam HID lights swing up and fill in the high beams, but you do not get the auto leveling or diagnostic function's of the factory setup.

Because the DME has to be programmed to accept the leveling system, just hooking everything up will cause it to throw codes. Several people have been down this road before...............

Right up to where you connect it to the DME and get the DME to accept the retrofit.................

You cannot go too small on the wheels because they will not clear your brakes. I am also not sure the you can dial this out with an alignment, but would suggest talking to a quality alignment shop in your area to see if they can help in any way.