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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Don't be hard on yourself, sometimes small spits or cracks are difficult to find on these connectors, even the pros miss them.
  2. Again, the "Pelican Option" is a single row only steel bearing, basically the weakest known design of any used. If you have a dual row car, you would actually be replacing the strongest of the factory designs with one the weakest. You would be better off leaving the factory bearing in there and just removing the rear seal so it can get some oil. If you had a single row car, you would be replacing a questionable design with another questionable design, all to save a few bucks.
  3. The problem remains that the bearings with "nothing wrong" can suddenly change and wipe out an otherwise fine engine, and do so with absolutely no warning. Every M96/97 owner needs to make decision based upon what is known about these bearings, and in realtion to their risk tollerance levels. Some will follow Excellence Magazine's recommendation and change the bearing out as soon as possible, others may wait and do it when it is time to do the clutch, and some may choose to not do the upgrade at all. The choice is always yours to make, but it needs to be an informed decision.
  4. Take the car somewhere else to someone that knows what they are talking about. There have been very few problems with the LN replacement bearings, most of which were traced to poor installation techniques. The number of installations done and still running number in the thousands; the ceramic bearing has proven itself. When LN first introduced the replacement bearing, they did recommend replacing the bearing at each clutch change, but have backed off that somewhat as the ceramic bearing has continued to show its long term strength. As for using cheaper replacements, in this application you really do get exactly what you pay for. One domestic supplier mentioned above uses all steel single row bearings with spacers to replace double row bearings; so you end up replacing one of the strongest design bearings with one that is known to be the weakest. But you saved a few bucks. Swell. If you have a dual row bearing car, the LN dual row replacement is the way to go. If you have a single row, going with the solid bearing "IMS Solution" would be optimal, but you could also consider the LN single row if you are on a tighter budget. In either case, go with an approved installer.
  5. You cannot use this approach on a 996; everyone seems to lose sight of the fact that because the Tip uses an oil to water cooler that is built into the side of the Tip, there are no lines carrying fluid outside of the transmission, only coolant. RFM is correct, the only thing you can do is drain the pan, change the filter, and refill the trans. You will exchange somewhere between 3 and 4 quarts of the 9 or so total in the transmission, no more.
  6. Somewhere between 3 and 4. The system hold a total of about 9, and most is trapped in the converter.
  7. At this juncture, it is entirely possible you have a DME error; let Porsche look at it.
  8. Thanks for the clarification.
  9. Glad you got it sorted.
  10. Question is, "Why is the car killing wheel bearings?" Even cars that see serious track time do not have this problem.
  11. You have separate front and rear differentials in addition to the Tiptronic trans. Because yours is an 02, you have the benefit of both a fill and drain plug on the re diff, something the earlier cars lacked, making fluid changes a bit of a pain. Your rear diff uses and 85W90 hypoid gear oil, while the front diff uses 75W90. If I can make a suggestion, invest in the Bentley manual for your car, it contains copious information and photos on these service items and could save you a lot of money in the long run, and you can get it at the RennTech store link under the "Special Offers" tab at the top of this page.
  12. Pedro, thanks for the clarifying photos. Quick question: The pressure regulator you are referring to is the factory unit in the oil pump, or does the system use and independent regulator to control the flow going to the IMS bearing?
  13. When you pull the plug on the bad cylinder, take note of its color and level of carbon build up versus the other plugs, this will help give you a better idea why it is acting up.
  14. That would work, but the overfill port is not very large, is on a slight angle, and has some obstructions just inside it, so pushing a tube it is not ideal.
  15. You are reading too much into this. Yes, the 2002 and later cars require a special hose (9057/1), but when you see one of these up close, you realize it is nothing more than an AC charging hose that depresses the Schrader valve in the fill port, allowing the fluid to flow in. We simply took an old AC hose and put a Motive Power sourced quick disconnect on it so that we could use it instead of the curved fill tube for the earlier cars; A brand new set of three AC hoses cost about $15-20, the Motive fill tool is available from multiple sources, as it the quick disconnect. So, for a few bucks, you have a tool that will fill either early or late Tips. As for temperature control, you really do not need a PIWIS to do this; the trans needs to be below 105F when it is filled, so if it is cool, you just fill it until it comes out the overfill port while the engine is idling. when it does, move the gear selector through the gears, and check level again. Then it is Miller time.................
  16. The CPS will shut off the fuel pump if it goes bad. You might want to set up the Durametric to log data and try running the car until it acts up and see what the system catches.
  17. Walk away. The buyer sets the rules on a PPI, chooses who does it, and sees the results first. They are telling you where to go, what you will be told, and you can't back out. Complete nonsense. On second thought, run away.............
  18. That part should be a threaded plug (item #14) that screws into the end of the shaft; if that is all you need to replace, you should be able to remove it with something like an "easy out" bit.
  19. Chiming in...............I would concur that looks like there is a vacuum leak in the system and it is struggling to try to adapt for it.
  20. When using one of these pin out boxes, you are isolating the entire wire loom and sensors or controllers where they connect to the DME, so you can test the entire circuits that the DME would be seeing. In this way, if the circuits are OK, then the DME is suspect. Usually, it is one of the sensors or the wiring that comes up as the problem. It would, however, be very difficult to replicate what these devices do by testing individual wires and circuits. Porsche usually grounded the DME close to where it is mounted, the exact location varied with year and model somewhat do to space limitations.
  21. I think they did at one time, but I have no idea what they are doing now, as they seem to have dropped a lot of the little used adaptors. Along with the correct DME connector adaptors, you would also need the pin overlay maps to match, which are even harder to find unless you happen to come across someone with one already set up for Porsche. Every once in a while, one will show up on flea bay or at car show sale, but even these are few and far between. That said, I have never seen a 9616 come up for sale.
  22. It may be the beginning of the end for the thermostat, which by-the-by is a "maintenance" item that needs to be changed from time to time, like the water pump. While most tend to wait until it fails (often either stranding them or potentially doing damage to the engine), periodic change out every 5-6 years, or when doing either the water pump or freshening the coolant would be excellent preventative steps. These things never crap out at a convenient time or place, usually choosing something like Christmas Eve at 11:30PM to die.....
  23. The tool (special tool 9616) is a Porsche "Pin out" or "DME break out" box for testing circuits. Porsche's Black Forrest version is about $2K (if you can find one), OTC makes something similar, but equally rare, called the OTC 3226: This allows you to plug into the DME's wiring harness and test individual circuits electrical properties to make sure they are functional. All in, sells for about $1k.
  24. No. Because of the material the tank is made from, and the pressures at which it operates, patching or glue simply will not hold. And, as you would have to remove the tank to patch many of the failure cracks, you would have already done the major work required to install a new one.
  25. I would look closely at the Denso coils, but I would source them somewhere else as Pelican is usually high. I would also check further on the Denso part number as the last time I looked, they did not make one for your engine.
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