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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. To my knowledge, on the M96, the fans are triggered by the DME software when the coolant reaches pre set limits; so to change the temps you would need to alter the programming. As for the fan's run time, if you read the post from Australia, the fans tend to run less frequently and for shorter periods on cars with the 160F stat. We have also noted similar observations on both two and three radiator vehicles. The addition of the third radiator on cars only equipped with two would increase both the total coolant volume and total heat exchange surface area, both of which would further reduce fan
  2. If that is the case, they should also know that I am not the vendor for this product, but a satisfied customer that has personally observed its benefits, as have many of my shop's customers………………….
  3. K: How many O-rings are needed for the conversion to the "S" oil cooler? Part numbers? Regards, Maurice. Seven (7) total parts ordered. I'll know more after I finish the install. 996-107-025-57-M6 - Oil Heat Exchanger - $ 151.75 999-707-409-40-M17 - Rubber o-ring - .75 each - 2 needed - $1.50 total 999-707-389-40-M100 - Rubber o-ring - $1.00 each - 4 needed - $4.00 total I hope this helps! I've seen some part guys do this in the past, what they have given you is every possible o-ring combination available. This way, you are guaranteed to have a set that will
  4. "data loggers, which were left in the test cars for periods ranging from five days to two weeks in order to observe how the vehicle's baseline temperatures responded in "real world" driving conditions The issue with this test is that you are comparing the data collected with likely relevant differences (external temp, humidity, barometric pressure) in driving conditions. Additionally, it is a normal phenomenon for people with recently modded cars to drive differently to "test" out the mod and that itself skews results." Unfortunately, you and I totally disagree on one blatantly obvious con
  5. OK Stefan, let's go take the "rhetoric" item by item.................... "I agree with the above commentary that suggests the 160 degree thermostat is ineffectual. It would be nearly impossible to perform a controlled experiment that demonstrates that it is effective as there are too many variables that cannot be controlled. I think everyone is in agreement that it won't prevent your car from overheating as the stock thermostat opens fully before that happens." We employed commercially available data loggers, which were left in the test cars for periods ranging from five days to two
  6. K: How many O-rings are needed for the conversion to the "S" oil cooler? Part numbers? Regards, Maurice. There are four orings, two each of two sizes. Parts 999-707-409-40 and 999-707-389-40 come to mind, but you better check those with a the parts department as the very early cars also used one other number.
  7. We normally do not replace the coolant mix unless it has become contaminated or have a specific need to drain the system. As long as the mix looks good (clear with no suspended crud) and passes tests such as freeze point, pH, etc., it should be fine. Just be sure to use the OEM coolant (yes, it cost a bit more than the auto parts store stuff, but it has proven to last a long time, which the cheap stuff doesn't always do), and only mix it with distilled water (about a buck a gallon at the supermarket) and you will be fine for many years................
  8. There seems to be some significant misconceptions on how this works. The stat does control the minimum operation temp of the engine by controlling when full coolant flow commences (the OEM stat begins to open at 185-187F, but is not fully open until around 200F; the 160 stat begins to open at 160F and is fully open by around 170F or so), but it also controls the minimum temperature the system can return to by "throttling" the flow if the system tries to overcool (this happens most obviously in the winter, but also occurs at warmer temps as well were it controls the temperature to which the co
  9. I was hoping you would pipe JPF, What's the exspensive fix? a reflash. This nags me, if an engine is running a 16o stat from the get go, I get can picture it. Hpwever, if a motor that has broken in at 219f for 50k ( worn to fit do a degree) is'nt dropping the temp 50 degrees all the sudden going to change all the tolerances due to a new coeifient of exspansion value. resulting in a refit of all internal components( I.E wear)? I suppose you have had the oil anayze before and after a "stat" change on a high-ish milage motor? Regards, PK To respond to your first question, th
  10. It appears to be silicone, but as I said, just about any lubricant will work as it is only used to help keep the o-rings in place while replacing the tubes. In a pinch, we have used use motor oil and have never had a problem. Warming the engine helps get stuck tubes out if they are really balky.......usually, they just pop right out.
  11. Mike, those are for the outer panels, not the battery cover. The quarter turn plastic ones are a dealer item.
  12. The dash temp display is nearly a bad joke; it is both non linear and grossly inaccurate as well. Most M96's showing around 180F on the dash are actually running 205-210F. LN has the only ones available in North America to my knowledge............
  13. As will any OBDII scanner with PID capture capability (Actron, etc.)..............
  14. The grease is just to protect the o-rings while the tube is being reinstalled. In reality, just about any lubricant will work. Unless the tube is damaged, all you need is new o-rings. To pull the tubes, Porsche makes a ridiculously expensive tool, or you can use a $1 expanding one inch (2.54cm) transom plug that you can find a any boat yard............ Works like a charm.......
  15. Under EPA rules, Porsche has to build a car that will continue to pass emissions standards (those in place at the time of construction) for at least 80,000 miles. Raising the coolant temps has been a cheap band-aid in this effort since the late 1960's, and is practiced by just about all the OEM's. Interestingly, Porsche does not use 185F stats in their most performance oriented engines; the GT2 and GT3's for example use a lower temp stat to maximize engine output and longevity. Dyno tests on an M96 before and after showed that the engine picked up a small, but measurable amount of HP and
  16. Yes, I changed my serp belt myself at 62K . I might just do the waterpump and serp belt again while I'm at it. Anybody have any thoughts on changing the waterpump with 82,000 miles as preventative maintenance? Two thoughts: The pump isn't known to be a "survivor", and typically fails with little or no warning. Secondly, you will need to drain, refill and bleed the system a second time if the pump dies next week...........
  17. The 160F stat is an excellent mod for any state; out here we see temps ranging from 0F to 105F, and the unit is just fine. And, yes, the car will pass emissions.............
  18. There should be no flush needed, but you will need a new o-ring for the coolant drain plug (fifty cent item) and a dab of anti seize to put on the plug threads before you re torque it. Check the condition of your water pump; you will need to drain the system all over again if it craps out 5 min. after you do your upgrades. As you have a 5 speed car, you can also upgrade to the "S" oil cooler which is about twice the size of the base unit, and is a simple bolt in swap for about $200 or so (parts at retail). The larger cooler is one of the biggest bang for the buck mods you can do for a bas
  19. With getting it scanned to see what the codes are, guessing would be a total crap shoot. Get it scanned................ and, by-the-by, it can be scanned by any simple $30 unit to get the codes, you do not need anything fancy.
  20. The M96 runds a bit rich at start up, to comply with 50 state emissions standards, it uses a secondary air injection pump for a short period after starting.
  21. You need to pull the lower panel and have a look with a good flashlight; it there are signs of seepage from the weep hole on the bottom of the pump, you are in the market to replace it before it strands you somewhere not so nice.................
  22. HI, Its looks like I have a leak similar to this. Does anyone have any experience of changing the tensioner seal. How do you lock the cams? What tooling is needed thanks Jetbox $600-$800 depending upon the source…………
  23. We have the LN stat is several customer cars; I also have it in my personal car as well. The car will run quite a bit cooler at any given ambient temp than it would with the OEM stat (which only begins to open in the 185-190F range, but is not fully open until 205-210F), and will cool back down to a lower temp if it gets hot, such as being stuck in traffic for a bit (be aware that the dash gauge is notoriously inaccurate). One of the biggest advantages it brings is that it lowers the oil temps as well, which is good for both the engine and the oil. I would ignore the Porsche dealership's comme
  24. Oil level reading comes from a sensor in the oil sump. Either the sensor has gone bad, or the wiring pigtail leading out from it has become disconnected...........
  25. I doubt it, but it will create more oil leaks than you ever imagined could exist............... Suggest you give Jake Raby a call, he once described pulling one of these that went flying around the shop when it released; seems to take a lot of force to dislodge it.
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