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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. No disrespect to Wayne, but as he already sells LN parts; I am surprised he would try to develop his own IMS retrofit. That said, to my understanding, his retrofit uses the same style bearing as the OEM (steel with seals), but employs a larger center bolt much like the LN unit. While the smaller center bolts on the OEM style can fail, I really do not think that the bolt is the primary issue, which is lubrication or a lack thereof. All things considered, the primary costs for an IMS retrofit is not the price of the bearing; by far, most of it is labor. After paying all the labor hours, wouldn’t you want to install the strongest and most proven bearing you could lay hands on? Including LN, there are now four possible alternatives either in the market, or close to entry. Some appear to be copying LN, others going the “low cost alternative” approach, and one that supposedly uses bearings within bearings in conjunction with a “knock sensor” to catch a failure developing. While I am confident that the market place forces will eventually result in “shake out” of the lesser players, it is an interesting example of what happens when someone finds a way around a profound problem that the OEM says cannot be done (Porsche still insists that the bearings cannot be changed without splitting the cases, and this remains the “official line” at many dealerships), and the concept quickly turns into a multi million dollar aftermarket business...............
  2. Do you have wear data on the LNE bearing? I have requested this data from Flat6 and was told that the wear data was LNE property and they are not sharing it. I believe that LNE would agree that the real problem is lack of IMSB lubrication not bearing quality. The contribution that LNE has made--without question--is the bearing puller that alows the IMSB to be replaced (in some M96) without tear down. No one does. As I mentioned, LN has a substantial installed base, but is still recommending replacing the bearing at typical clutch change intervals (40-60K miles). Wear pre se was never the issue with the OEM rear shaft bearing, they typically fail due to lack of lubrication (grease leaks out of the unit, engine oil that replaces the grease gets trapped and beat to Hell, bearing starts chewing itself to pieces). When you pull an OEM bearing that is on the way out, they tend to either have no lubrication inside at all, or are full of some really nasty motor oil that stinks to high heaven, indicating how beat up it has become. The LN bearings do not use seals, so the bearing is continually splash lubricated by the engine oil to reduce wear. The LN unit is also a ceramic hybrid style rather than steel like the OEM, so it is much harder. LN has kept their data pretty close to the vest, which any small business man can understand. But the product seems to be working.
  3. I'm not exactly sure what you are referring to, are you talking about a ball joint separation tool?
  4. P000A is a generic code for a slow cam position response, but if it is correct, it could be the cam position sensor and may or may not have anything to do with the oiling or solenoid system. Before I went tearing into anything, or spending a lot of money on parts or other "fixes", I’d get the vehicle rescanned with either a real PIWIS or the Durametric system; this would not be the first “ghost code” I’ve heard coming from knock off PIWIS systems…………..
  5. Only problem here is that you have no data on the quality,performance, or longevity for this kit, the LN unit has over 4,000 units installed in the field. I'm sure Casper knows their bearings, but I would be remiss if I did not note that LN and Jake Raby tested the Hell out of the LN unit before they made it available; I have seen no data on what level of testing this other supplier has done. Sometimes you do get what you pay for.....................
  6. You could, but then you would have to thoroughly clean out the bleeder before you could use it with hydraulic fluids (brake fluid) again. Hydraulic fluid and ATF/gear oil should never be mixed as it will lead to all sorts of problems. Their "fill" unit also has a schrader valve on it which the brake unit does not, which allows you to pressure up the fill unit with the shop's compressed air line, making it even easier to use. It is up to you, but I prefer to have one for bleeding brakes and clutches, another for filling transmissions and differentials. If you go in the direction of using one for both, I’d suggest looking into Motive’s quick disconnecting fittings, which allow you to switch adaptors and hoses in seconds (we have six or seven different adaptors for brakes alone). The quick disconnect are listed in their “spares” section, are cheap and very well made. We have them on all our Motive equipment.
  7. Yes, it can pump any reasonable viscosity fluid, like ATF, and it comes with the shutoff valve, tygon tubing lines, and the curved end piece to fit into the bottom of the trans. If you read the other poster's write up, you will see basically the same stuff that he fabricated to do the job. You can locate and assemble all the bits your self, or buy one ready to go.
  8. There is a Casper Labs that do aircraft stuff, do not know if they are the same outfit.
  9. If you are un-inclined to make your own fill tool, Motive Products (maker of the pressure bleeding system everyone uses for the brakes and clutch hydraulic systems on these cars) makes an excellent "off the shelf" tool for doing exactly what you are interested in: http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/POWER-FILL-PRO-1-gallon_p_79.html
  10. I have never been a fan of vacuum bleeding tools for a variety of reasons; get a pressure unit such as the one Motive Products makes.
  11. That is not completely correct; you still need to hold the pedal to the floor while using a pressure or vacuum bleeder. When you are finished, the pedal will stay down, and needs to be manually pulled up, after which it will function normally......
  12. The "Northwest Passage" in the heads is a critical component in the X51 package, the pan a baffle alone really don't add much other than a small increase in total oil capacity. I'd also suggest doing some searching, another shop (EBS) recently released a very nice looking stainless steel baffle assembly that has gotten some good press.
  13. When checking the heads, be sure to closely look at the small diameter freeze plugs under the cam covers, they can be a major source of headaches to the point that some shops are machining and threading them to accept screw in replacements.
  14. It just pops off; made out of rubber, it just snaps over the bleed valve.
  15. If your car is still the 01 Boxster in your signature, it is an e-gas car, so the pedal is bolted to the floor and attached to a small electronic unit that sends a signal to the DME. Perhaps it is binding or the module has an issue?
  16. There are three purge valves; the cannister purge valve, the air purge, and the operating purge valve. All of these should be under the emissions components.
  17. I have no idea, I do not use that version of the software, and I have no issues resetting the service reminders. To my knowledge, version 5 is not the most current “enthusiast” software. It sounds as though the version 5 is resetting the DME, but not the physical display in the dash for some reason. Pulling the fuse will force the dash display to reread the DME when it powers up, and will find the alert gone and stay clear. You might want to drop Durametric an email for further explanations; they have been pretty responsive in the past.
  18. P21S gel wheel cleaner; spray on, rinse off, wipe dry; done.
  19. When the slave fails, they sometimes leak internally. When this happens, insufficient hydraulic pressure is developed to operate the clutch, but there are no external signs of leakage. The slave simply no longer pushes hard enough to work the pressure plate and release the disc.
  20. You may have a dying slave cylinder, not totally uncommon. A realtively simple DIY project to replace, you may want to search the archives for write ups......
  21. Did you hold the clutch pedal to the floor while bleeding the slave cylinder?
  22. Do you know which valve it is and the part number ? There are multiple valves in the system, you need to check for pending codes and do a little diagnostics to see what is up.
  23. Try research "EVAP system" for the car. It carries a charcoal cannister and series of valves and lines that capture fuel vapors from the system and route them into the intake to be burned. The system noramlly operates under vacuum, which is probably the source of the sound, although I'm surprised it has not thrown a code............
  24. The is a unused plug and harness behind the center console that is for the OEM telephone, it has both switched power and a ground if you need one.
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