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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. First, battery “maintainers” and “trickle chargers” are different. Battery maintainers are good, trickle chargers are not. A battery maintainer uses electronics to bring the battery up to full charge and then shuts down the current flow until needed; trickle chargers keep charging the battery at a low rate, even when the battery is fully charged. That leads to problems and premature battery failure. Be sure the unit you use is a “maintainer” and not a “trickle charger”. By all means, use a quality maintainer, it will keep your battery in optimal condition and will also extend its useful
  2. The fuel system had an EVAP closed loop recovery system that uses engine vacuum to operate. By not shutting off the engine, you are creating a vacuum leak, causing the problem. Shut the damned thing off when you refuel............
  3. He said they used to dip, so I'm assuming it was there to begin with.................
  4. The light motion is controlled by a control module that dips the lights on start up and swings them up to fill in the high beams. Possible problems are the module has gone bad or has a connection issue. If the lights are factory (rather than installed after delivery) a PST II/PIWIS can do diagnostics to spot the problem, otherwise it is time to get a testmeter and start checking things.....................
  5. An absolutely unnecessary mod, but it looks good. Looks much better, costs less than $15...................
  6. With today's gas prices, the ugly black locking unit looks much better........
  7. The issue is a failing Bendix drive unit on the starter that is not retracting fully or in a timely fashion. While the Bendix unit can be serviced or replaced, most just replace the entire starter. Remanufactured OEM unit will be in the $220-300 range with a core exchange.
  8. I copied several part numbers from harness connections to my '03 Boxster S so that I could assemble a custom harness for installing a new stereo but the numbers come up as "customer proprietary" on Amp's site... i.e., they are renumbered for Porsche. Does anyone know how I can get generic part numbers for building custom wiring harnesses for connection to existing factory connections? Specifically I am looking for the mates to: 1. Phone harness connector part # AMP 1-828-819-1 (factory harness has a female connector) 2. Amplifier harness (BE6600) part # AMP 1-828-882-1 (factory harness
  9. A copy of my response to the same question on another site: I would not use Mobil 1 for a very simple reason: I emailed their tech line and was told that “Mobil 1 does not have appropriate gear oil for your application.” I would agree that changing the gear lube more frequently than the factory call for, but Porsche has gone to lengths (as with other components) to prevent the after market from replicating the correct formulation (they use obtuse specs that no one in the US, who use API specs, seems to be able to discern). As for those who have gone in a different direction, we have a
  10. Changing it before it is due will not hurt anything as long as you refill it with the correct lube. Several have posted that they saw improved shifting characteristics after changing the gear oil.................suggest reading my posting on this subject in the 986 DIY section.
  11. Yes, get rid of the "over the headlight" syle unit and get the later model.....................
  12. Current V1 with "PoP"....................
  13. So I guess that I should immediately panic over the set that have been on my 3500 lb Nissan for more than a decade of daily driving in any environment where the temps range from over 100F in the summer to sub zero (with tons of salt on the road) in the winter? Oh, and the car came from the factory with the stainless lines...............including the clutch hydraulic line. I have read more incorrect "web-myths" on this subject than I would care to mention. If stainless lines are "short lived" or not for "heavy duty" use, how did they get DoT approval (yes, there are braided stainless lines
  14. Rubbish. I've used them for many years on street and race vehicles, have never had or heard of a failure.........
  15. Loren, I spoke with Jeff Clark about these 996 OBD II manuals, and they are pre e-gas only (98-99) and would not be usefull for later models..........................
  16. First of all, buy a couple of small vacuum line caps or make your own out of sections of vacuum hose and insert a screw into the end. Use the caps to plug the line when you disconnect the brake flex line. Letting the lines drip out runs the risk of getting air into the ABS/PSM system, which you could have real difficulty getting out without a PST II/PIWIS to cycle the system.............................................. Then go buy your self a Motive pressue bleeder and bleed the lines properly when you are done ...............
  17. Everything they sell is expensive, I recently priced a PIWIS system and it cost more (just for the first year) than I paid to add a full bay and lift to my shop...................anything to keep the independents’ out of the loop.............
  18. That is not correct, correctly installed after market lits move up and down when first turned on................
  19. Let's see........... We go from a gear oil with the wrong API GL rating for these gearboxes (Mobil 1), to one with no API rating at all (GM/Penzoil Syncromesh)..................yeah, that makes sense................... Wow, everybody is an expert around here. JFP do a google search on GM Syncromesh around the net. I have used it in everthing from 500hp street driven civics to RX7's with Japanese 3 Rotor right upto Supras with 800+ hp and Audi S4's with dual K04's makin around 400+whp with quattro. Guys who run major power end up with tranny issues and the GM syncromesh works wonders
  20. Let's see........... We go from a gear oil with the wrong API GL rating for these gearboxes (Mobil 1), to one with no API rating at all (GM/Penzoil Syncromesh)..................yeah, that makes sense...................
  21. Because Mobil 1 does not make a fluid with the correct GL rating to make it compatible with these transmissions...........other than that, no reason...........
  22. OK; Gotta ask: Loren, how do get these numbers? I've now seen you respond to two of these inquireries, always with two possibles.....................How?
  23. Not were I am, but i will look for the paper work on them next week when i'm home. They are a Brembo part, available from Race Tech..........
  24. stay tuned for pictures on how to turn an S rear caliper into a base rear caliper and vice versa. BTW, the base rotors will work with the S rear calipers. i will post pics on how / why this is the case. i'm thinking maybe brembo sends you cross drilled base rears. next time you buy a set, measure the thickness. i bet they're standard thickness. i'll post the pics / measurements / explanation a bit later; still messy from working earlier. Actually, the rear rotors are not "base thickness" (20 mm), they are "s" thickness (24 mm), I just checked....................
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