Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,566
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    185

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Sorry, but that is not correct. E85 has a tendency to cause corrosion due to water entrainment in the fuel, leading to severe problems with injector, fuel lines, and components such as the pump, which also may not be able to deliver enough E85 fuel to begin with. Most to the seals and o-rings in the fuel system that are meant for gas will also tend to swell and leak, leading to additional issues. We have seen more than one "attempted" E85 conversion in the shop, most of the aftermarket kits simply do not hold up because they do not go far enough. As far as making more power and costing less, we have not seen that either. EtOH is about 1/3 lower in specific BTU output compared to gas, so if you have to use more just to get back to where you were, it is going to have to cost one Hell of a lot less, prices which I have not seen. And unless the vehicle was E85 from the factory, you also have to factor in the cost of the conversion over the miles run on E85, which will further impact the economics
  2. So what? The part number designates it was for the "S" Boxster or the Carrera's, but it still fits as the mount on the engine case is exactly the same on all three cars. It is taller than the base unit, but that is why you want to use it: It has more than twice the heat transfer capacity. It fits, without any other modifications, and it works.......
  3. RFM is correct, the switch changed in 2005 and now looks like this: Instead of this for the earlier cars: The aftermarket price as also gone from about $10 to over $130......................
  4. On the 1997 (986) to install the oil heat exchanger: You do not have to: "Drain water from engine block." You do not have to: "Drain oil and changed the oil filter." You do not have to: "Remove J tube." You do not have to: "Detach throttle body and place aside (good time to clean it)." You do not have to: "Remove "vacuum tubes one on each side." 1. "Place top in service position." 2. "Open engine compartment." 3. "Remove air tube from throttle body and air intake box on the left side." 4. "Remove oil heat exchanger - 4 hex screws." 5. "Replace O rings." 6. "Install new oil heat exchanger." Installation is the reverse of removal. The seals for the coolant break loose before the oil seals are free. Gently rock the heat exchanger before lifting it up and off and the coolant drains out of the heat exchanger without going into the oil. There is no need to mess with the oil, coolant drains, throttle body, J-tube and vacum lines, if you are just changing the heat exchanger . The "S," cooler looks different and will not fit. As we currently have several dozen customers running the "S" cooler upgrade on base cars, I'm not sure why you posted this, but it is wrong on a couple of critical points: 1. Not draining the coolant will lead to a complete mess, and will most will likely get coolant into the oil passages. Even when the engine is off, the cooler if full of coolant (it is the highest point of the cooling system), containing a couple of liters of coolant, as well as a fair amount of residual oil. Pulling the cooler without draining the system first will dump the retained coolant out all over the area where the cooler bolts to the block and coolant will get into the oil passages, with residual oil getting all over the top of the area as well. Draining the system and using a plastic bag slid under the unit before removing it totally prevents any mess, or intermixing. 2. As mentioned, we have a lot of customers running the "S" cooler on base cars, they fit without any additional modifications, and are hands down one of the best upgrades you can do for the money. It is a very common update, even with engine rebuilders. 3. Several of the other "steps" the poster listed where of his choice (e.g.: changing the oil, pulling the throttle body, etc.) to do other maintenance while in there. While not required to swap out the cooler, they were being done in parallel with the swap.
  5. I have never tried changing the diodes; I leave that to shops that specialize in these repairs. Quite often, changing out the regulator is a simple and relatively cheap fix. It is a bolt in item and common to Audi, Mercedes and even VW; often a better source for the part as they only charge about $40-50 for it.
  6. The designates that the car is in the "S" model trim: Carrera 3.6L 6 cyl 345 hp/288 lb-ft Carrera S 3.8L 6 cyl 385 hp/310 lb-ft The "S" is also the "wide body" car (rear fenders to clear larger tires) and sells for around $10K more than the regular car. For more, visit Porsche's website.
  7. If you have a leak in the AC unit under the dash, any decent AC shop should be able to detect the gas (most now use electronic detectors that are very sensitive). If it is leaking, the under dash unit must be replaced..............
  8. If the battery is draining but otherwise good, and there are no undo parasitic drains on the system, you probably have a problematic alternator. Check for electrical drains by putting a digital voltmeter set to current (mA) between the positive battery cable and the positive battery terminal. You should see something around 60 mA or less (normal current draw). If it is higher, something is pulling current out while the car is parked. You can locate the circuit by pulling the fuses one at a time until you see the draw drop into its nominal value; the fuse you just pulled is the problem circuit. As for the alternator, you can use the same meter to check the voltage output at idle, should be 14.3V or so. If it is below 14V, you probably need a new voltage regulator for the alternator (same regulator is used in Audi, Mercedes, and VW cars, so you should be able to locate one).
  9. I would say yes, and not just because we do PPI's. When spending an amount that one of these is going to set you back, you want to know as much as possible about the car, even if it carries a CPO. Percentage wise, it is a small investment in peace of mind. If nothing else, an independant PPI may provide "tie breaker" facts between two similar cars, such as a DME read out of how many times the car has been to the rev limiter. PPI's have also proven to be handy negotiation tools when it comes to price...... If there is nothing to hide, no dealer should be hesitant about a PPI.
  10. The electrical section of the switch is a $15 item and a simple DIY project to replace. There is no real way to test it other than replace it. Do a quick search, you will find several "how to's" as this is a comon item.
  11. The mixture codes may simply be "ghost" codes caused by a lack of adaption values in the DME. I would clear the codes using something like the Durametric, or any OBDII scanner, and drive the car for a bit before doing anything else. The mixture codes may come back again, so be prepeared for one more "reset" before taking them seriously.
  12. Year and model information is always helpful………. Possible issues are the ignition switch (always a favorite) and/or a bad battery cable or connection.
  13. Do not even think about repairing it; it will not hold. This is why you have insurance; I'll bet if you check, your comprehensive policy will cover this repair, much like getting a windshield replaced after a rock hit.
  14. Let me guess: your mechanic cleared the codes by disconnecting the battery....... P1602 is the code for memory loss of the DME adaption values. Usual suspects: Wiring issues at terminal 30, battery was disconnected, DME was unplugged. P1123 and 1125 are the codes for both banks being so rich that the DME cannot compensate. Usually this is caused by high fuel pressure or leaking injectors; but as it seems to have happened just after the AOS was changed out, it may just be the lack of adaptation values (running time) on the DME. If your mechanic did clear the codes by using the battery, first you need a new mechanic. That is not how you clear codes. Take the car to a shop with either a Durametric system or a PST II/PIWIS unit, re-read the codes and then have them cleared. If there really is a fuel issue, the 1123/25 codes will return without the 1602 code after the DME has relearned the adaptation values, which will require you to drive the car for a bit.
  15. The fans are controlled by an algorithm in the DME and work in unison. The fans have two speeds, one for just cooling, and another faster speed for cooling/air conditioning. Regardless of which speed they are running at, both fans should be turning at the same speed. The DME triggers them for cooling by monitoring the coolant temps, the AC speed is triggered by the AC system engaging the compressor.
  16. Temps should not really effect the output, and the voltage loss between the altenator and battery could be a bad cable.
  17. A PIWIS is the Porsche diagnostic computer system, mandatory for many types of work on these cars. When the fuel level sensor is replaced, they are supposed to run the level calibration diagnostic, otherwise the fuel gauge will not read correctly. Even a prolonged disconnect of the battery can require this calibration. I would suggest you get the car checked out by someone with the correct equipement.
  18. With an actual load tester, you can see the diodes "ripple" under load, confirming everything is correct. With a problematic alternator, usually the alternator starts dropping diodes pretty quickly (within seconds) under load.
  19. When your fuel gauge was replaced, did they perform the fuel system level calibration with a PIWIS? This requires totally draining the tank, installing and checking the new gauge, and then putting measured amounts of fuel in the tank to test and set its calibration......................... If they did not, there may be nothing wrong with the gauge itself.
  20. Along with voltage testing, we also like to test the alternator's response under load conditions. While we use a load tester for this, you can do the same thing by turning on the high beams and other electrical loads while monitoring the alternator's voltage response.
  21. One point often overlooked on header pipe and collector sizes is the fact that you can go too big, which tends to move the torque curve up in the RPM curve, reducing the car's drivability. When the tubes get too big, the velocity of the exhaust gases actually begin to slow down, reducing the lower RPM cylinder scavenging effect, causing the perceived loss of low end response. Don't go nuts, as "size really does matter", and there is a "too big"................
  22. +1 on Loren’s comment. We have also seen similar random electrical problems with ignition switches on the way out, which is a very cheap DIY fix.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.