JFP in PA

The factory recalibration.proceedure is complicated and requires a Porsche scan tool and a precise amount of fuel, but should fix your issue.

Sometimes you don't have any choice, sooner or later, they all have to be loosened for service.

You may be able to do it with an appropriate threaded insert as I would now not trust the original threads to hold the nearly 2,000 PSIG pressures these things see by just cleaning up what is left. And when you install the new ones, please use an anti seize compound (we use high temperature nickel base for this application) on the bleeder threads. The original bleeder thread are 10mm x 1.0mm pitch. Good luck!

In a way, it has its own DME.

The answer is simple: Porsche uses a unique programing logic that has always been a pain for others to emulate, and quite simply the number of vehicles produced is still rather low.

The answer to your question is yes. What you describe as "registering" the battery is actually setting the charging system output to match the type of battery (AGM battery for instance use a slightly higher charging rate than flooded cells). This requires the use of a PIWIS system.

You do not need to use a PST II to properly bleed the brakes, that only becomes necessary if you get air into the control network.

Welcome to RennTech

Or install the IMS Solution and be done with it forever...…………..

Wheel centers are always a sore spot with just about every manufacturer, even lowly Nissan and Honda centers go $40-50 each.

Welcome to RennTech The MAF is located in the air intake system. Trace yours and you will find it sticking out.

Current LN recommend replacement interval is 75K miles.

No. As long as the vacuum device is not touching the liquid level in the surge tank, it will not siphon off coolant. If the tank is too full, just pull some out with turkey baster and you will be set to go.

You want to get the Uview to at least 25 to 27inches of vacuum and hold it there for five min,. before shutting off the air supply. Then let the car sit for at least 20 min holding that level of vacuum to be sure you have no leaks in the system, then you can start the refilling process.

Sorry, but your idea about a close thermostat making impossible to remove air bubbles is not correct. First of all, the thermostat itself is not actually water tight, it is just an impediment to liquid flow, so even a closed thermostat will allow air to escape. Second, there is a by pass around the thermostat, which will also facilitate air removal. All this is one of the beauties of the Uview system, if you pull and sustain a high vacuum (25-27 inches), there simply cannot be any air left in the system. We have used the Uview tool on Porsches and other makes for years, and never had a problem getting all of the air out of a system. So if you have evacuated the system correctly to high vacuum, there is no air left anywhere.

Where to begin...….. If you have scaring inside the water pump housing on the engine, a indication of an incorrect metal impeller pump being used, you may have identified at least part of your problems. Porsche used ONLY composite impeller pumps to prevent the impeller from gouging up the rear of the pump housing. Once that has occurred, the next pump may encounter poor or inconsistent coolant circulation because the gap between the new impeller and the engine case is no longer correct. This, unfortunately, is not a correctable situation, as the engine would need to be removed, disassembled, and the pump housing spray welded to build it back up before machining it back to the correct gap. And, to be quite blunt, that would cost more than sourcing a used replacement engine. To answer your separate question on air pockets and thermostat performance, yes, an air pocket at the thermostat will prevent it from working correctly as air is a poor media for heat transfer, and the thermostat will not see the actual coolant temp. And to address your blinking coolant light, there are four possible reasons it is lit, and only one is for high coolant temps: Here is the long explanation from the service manual on the flashing coolant light. "Four functions of the coolant warning light: 1. Engine coolant level too low -- light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) 2. Engine compartment temperature too high -- light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) (engine compartment blower might be faulty) 3. Engine coolant temperature too high -- light is lit; pointer on the right 4. Temperature sensor at water outlet faulty -- light flashes rapidly (1 Hz) ; pointer on the right Note: The temperature warning in point three is indicated if the conditions "engine coolant temperature too high" and "engine coolant level too low" are present simultaneously." You are also not interpreting the coolant flow pattern at the thermostat, the flow is like this: Your thermostat is in the return line from the radiators to the engine, not the out line.

They are micro switches built into the latch assemblies.

Have you checked to see if you have voltage at the bulb socket? If not, you may have a wiring problem.

The TSB cannot be published here as it is the intellectual property of Porsche and protected by copyright. If you take the information in Loren's post above and give it to your service writer, he should be able to take it from there.

Take a look at this thread:

The fans are controlled by the DME using sensor signals from coolant or engine compartment sensors,

Refer to my first graph above; what concerns me is that you are not getting a true nearly flat line from the rear O2 sensor and a rhythmic sine wave like curve from the front sensor, yours are showing a bounce that should not be there. You could have fouled cats.

Front trunk, rear engine cover, doors, center console, interior sensor.

Nothing really. You need to see a trace of the voltage movement over time for both sensors on the same side at the same time. Should look like this: If they follow each other like this, you have a bad sensor:

You need a scan tool that reads the O2 sensor voltages in real time, and preferably graphs the values. One sensor on each side should by cycling, while the other draws a straight voltage line. If both are cycling, one of the sensors is out. My concern would be that someone just worked on the car and may of crated a wiring issue that is screwing up one sensor on each side, causing the issue. This is where there is no substitute for the correct diagnostic equipment. I would start by using the above chart to determine that you really have the correct sensor in the correct locations; otherwise you will be chasing your tail trying to sort this out......