Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to subscribe or donate. All subscriptions and donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual subscription or donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you subscribe RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's quality Porsche information at a low cost.

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by subscribing or donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    8,875

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    217

 Content Type 

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Not really, that is why your body shop took a short cut.
  2. JFP in PA
    The bolts pass through the IMS flange cover and into rather soft alloy threads, so you may want to take a close look at those. I do need to add that something sounds wrong here; normally the flange cover simply drops into place with only slight hand pressure, and then the three cover bolts (coated with sealant) spin in with just two fingers. So I have to ask: Are you sure your IMS shaft is still centered in the opening? And what torque are you trying to apply to these fasteners?
  3. JFP in PA
    The PTFE seal comes with a blue/green protective insert in it that is remove by the factory tool during installation: This seal MUST be inserted evenly and to the correct depth or it will leak and may even pop out. The factory tool presses it in evenly across the circumference and stops it at the correct install depth.. If you feel you may have distorted it during the install, I would recommend canning it and starting over with a new one. They are not expensive, but doing this over again because it leaked is not a good use of your time.
  4. JFP in PA
    If you have a three chain motor, you should be using the correct long cam locking tool, which has a cam tab at both ends: If you cannot get the tool inserted, try rotating the engine (clockwise only, by hand) and see if it fits then. You may have the engine 180 degrees off.
  5. JFP in PA
    The newer design PTFE RMS seal needs to be correctly inserted to 13MM around its entire circumference. A small pick should also tell you if the spiroloc clip is in correctly.
  6. JFP in PA
    Lits cost what they do because Porsche owns the rights to the design, anyone trying to copy them would get burned in court, hence only the crappy systems which do not impinge on Porsche's design.
  7. JFP in PA
    Dry but perfectly clean
  8. JFP in PA
    I think you will find that most aftermarket HID conversion kits are pretty much junk, either burning out quickly, burning up the factory wire harness, or melting and/or discoloring the external lens. By far, one of the biggest issues is a total lack or any replacement parts. Your halogen lamp housings also do not have the beam focus and cut off system, or leveling control which will also end up with glaring light pattern's to oncoming cars, which is both ticket bait and will cause the car to fail inspection in many states.
  9. JFP in PA
    Life expectancy of TPMS sensors varies with usage, temperature, etc. Realistic life is probably in the 5-7 year range for most, but could be shorter due to factors mentioned.
  10. JFP in PA
    You are in a "crapshoot" situation. Technically, the presence of ANY metal in the engine that is ferrous in nature disqualifies the car for a retrofit by LN standards as it only takes one flake to start a series of cascading failures. Some people have gotten away with doing a retrofit on a questionable engine, others have not been as fortunate.
  11. JFP in PA
    That is the problem with this method: You only know when you are finished.
  12. JFP in PA
    We see this when the sensor has come into contact with the flywheel, buggering the head of the unit. Your only choice may be to grasp it with pliers and twist back and forth until it pops free. Normally, these things just pop right out as Duncan has noted.
  13. JFP in PA
    Using the pelican method is at the least rather risky as the set screws are pushing on the IMS shaft gear, which is only a press fit and can be dislodged by this method. If that happens, the engine has to come out and apart to fix it. There are reasons that no one else even suggests this approach.
  14. JFP in PA
    As long as the copper gasket is the correct diameter and thickness, it should work fine. For future reference, the factory aluminum gaskets cost less than a buck each, and are even cheaper if you buy them by the bag.
  15. JFP in PA
    If you do a search, someone else experienced something similar and it was a problem with the tool. SIR made good on it and replaced the tool, and the second one worked fine.
  16. JFP in PA
    Not a problem; as I mentioned, we see this regularly and everyone assumes it is the end of the world when it is just a little pebble.
  17. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech Check for a small stone in between the rotor and metal splash shield; we see this fairly regularly.
  18. JFP in PA
    Some Porsche models use a Siemens DME that runs on odd software, limiting what the Durametric system, and many other systems, can do with them. Models with the more conventional DME work just fine with the Durametric system. With time, hopefully workarounds will come out, but that is the nature of these cars
  19. JFP in PA
    Not easily. The way the system works, when the immobilizer sees the RFID pill in the key, it sends a signal to the DME, which then activates the fuel and ignition systems so the car will start. No signal, no DME response, and no start. As the DME is controlling the ignition timing, spark signal, and the fuel pump, you would need to jury rig multiple systems around the DME, but then you would have no control over ignition timing, idle speed control, etc., as these are all monitored and adjusted by the DME.
  20. JFP in PA
    You are between a rock and a hard place on this one. Without a functioning immobilizer, the DME will not let the car start; without a PST II or PIWIS unit, you cannot see if the two actually do match and communicate correctly. There simply is no simple work around for this as it is the way the car was designed.
  21. JFP in PA
    (1) No. If the hub bearing is bad, it would take a bit to cause uneven wear on the rotors. (2) Not necessarily. It all depends on how the rotor is rotated while in contact with the dial indicator. If the rotation does not take up any slack in the hub bearing, the rotor could appear to run true because the hub bearing is not loaded. (3) No. The hub bearing's are simply torqued to spec, which is quite a high value.
  22. JFP in PA
    We own multiple factory flywheel locking tools (for different applications) and none of them bind up or have threading issues; they all simply drop right in and the bolt easily threads in with two fingers. What year and model is the car you are working on? The SIR P253 only fits certain years. It is also a cam timing tool (used for cam allocation), not a cam holding tool (used when the cam cover is being removed), which is completely different.
  23. JFP in PA
    Welcome to Rennech.org The immobilizer is purposely designed not to be bypassed, as the DME requires a ”handshake” with it before starting. This is specifically designed this way to prevent theft. Problems with this system due to water getting to it during rain storms and due to blocked drains it a very common issue with these cars. Look at the immobilizer under the driver’s seat, if it shows signs of corrosion, or the small fuse in it is blown, you may need to either send it out for repair, or replace it. Replacing it is not a DIY proposition as it must be coded to the car with a PST II or PIWIS unit, and the unit is pricey, so hope it can either be cleaned up or repaired. Good luck.
  24. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech. This is what happens when someone looks at a problem, immediately comes to a conclusion and proceeds without actually doing any diagnostics. From the beginning, the rotors should have been checked with a dial indicator for run out and trueness. If the hubs were bad, the discs would have run true, pointing the tech elsewhere. The front hubs should have also been checked at the same time, just to make sure they were not contributing to the problem. Obviously, this was not done as build up on the hubs is often a give away that something is wrong with them. Everyone seems to have overlooked the obvious on their way to the expedient. While it is not going to help your wallet, get the car looked at and fixed by someone that knows what they are doing. This car should be an absolute blast to drive, and once corrected, you will quickly forget about the cost getting to that point. Good luck.
  25. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech First of all, these engines never blow head gaskets as the gaskets are multi layer steel and actually stronger than the engine castings. The most common failure points that could cause this are an oil cooler failure, or a cracked cylinder head, so you have some diagnostic work ahead. The cooler can be pulled and pressure tested, obviously the cylinder head would require digging deeper. I would start with a pressure test of the cooling system to see if it holds; if it does not, you need to start digging further. Good luck.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.