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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. We don't like to push hard objects like golf tees into the hard lines as they have unusual flare ends and you really do not want to deform them. Something soft, like hose, slipped over the line end is a better bet.............
  2. Yes, but they do not have to be fancy, just some correctly sized black rubber hose with a screw in one end to stop the leak. You need to prevent the system draining and air getting back up into the ABS/PSM control network, as this then needs the scanner to activate systems during a flush to get it back out. A little fore thought and some fifty cent fabricated plugs/caps will prevent major headaches.
  3. You are heading for a major headache. If you allow the brake system to drain of fluid, you will need a Porsche specific scan tool to get everything working again. You would be far better off to do one rubber line at a time, disconnecting and replacing with the braided lines. Once done, the entire system will need to be flushed to get the air out. If you are going to remove the calipers from the car, plan on fabricating some plugged rubber hose bits to cap off the car's hard line's while it is apart for the same reason.
  4. The Durametric system would be a good acquisition. The 986 and 987 similar in many ways, but the 987 will have some later variations, like greater use of CAN Bus technology, DFI, the 9A1 engine instead of the M96, and later electronics. The reason for a lack of information is that Porsche stopped publishing service manuals around 2004-2005, so there is not a lot in print. Good luck with your new car.
  5. It will. I'd suggest ordering a replacement.
  6. Trying to patch these things is false economy. With them being the pain in the butt to get out, it makes no sense to even try to fix a damaged unit.
  7. Opening multiple thread on the same topic is never a good idea as it dilutes your efforts. Stick to one thread.
  8. But every once in a while, you will find the exception that has to look at absolutely everything, and the problems start.
  9. He does that in California, he will run afoul of the state emission police They not only check for system function, they also look for "non factory" modifications, like plugged lines or capped off ports.
  10. You seem to have multiple senor faults that are electrical in nature. Time to start checking the harness for damage or a loose connector.
  11. Loren is suggesting that you need to check for continuity and/or resistance in the circuit. Wires often look or feel fine, but when checked with a multi meter, there is no continuity (read a break in the wire internally), or there is high resistance (typically internal corrosion in the wire). Either will keep the horn from sounding.
  12. If there is one thing I've learned over the years of working on these cars, it is not to assume anything. I would focus on the cam sensor issue as suggested, and see what happens after it is solved.
  13. +1 I was typing the same thing, but Duncan was quicker!
  14. Welcome to RennTech The brake warning light has multiple functions; worn pads, low fluid, emergency brake engaged, etc. As you just changed the pads, I'd start with the new sensors; one simply may not be plugged in all the way.
  15. You need to look at the voltage signals from both sensors on that side:
  16. No idea, we never check them cold, so I have no reference point. Do you have access to a leak down tester?
  17. A bad valve should have shown up in the compression test.
  18. They also did not change the fluid, they just topped it up, which probably was not a lot of fluid. I'd suggest a full drain and refill with the correct lube.
  19. There is nothing there that tells me what fluid they used.
  20. I would try starting the car briefly from cold without the serpentine belt on it to see if the noise goes away.
  21. Could be several things. You may have a cam position sensor on the way out, it could be a problem with the VarioCam system itself on that bank, it could also be a chain issue. You need to dig deeper...........
  22. I'd ask them what they used; they would not be the first dealership we have seen use aftermarket gear oil. Assume nothing, question everything.
  23. I would definitely change the fuel filter. Along with checking all of the connections again, I would also use a digital manometer to check the vacuum level of the AOS. We have had little luck with aftermarket replacement AOS units due to the high rate of "right out of the box" failures, and no longer use them.
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