JFP in PA

I just realized that you expect to get the new cables under warranty, which you will not unless the dealer does it under goodwill. There is a TSB which tells the dealer that the cables have been updated with a new part number to correct the earlier problems, but it is a TSB, not a recall, so it is informational only. Start a conversation with your service manager, but I'm pretty he may tell you that unless they can confirm an existing problem, they will not replace the cables for free...............

OK, that makes a lot of sense, thank you. I agree (now) that there was nothoing wrong with the sensors :) Based on a thread I read I would need to either replace the valve I purchased, or another valve ( http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=996-110-129-06-M100&catalog_description=&Regeneration%2520Valve%2520from%2520Throttle%2520Body%2520for%2520Fuel%2520Vapor%2520System%252C%2520Boxster%252FBoxster%2520S%2520%2528%2531%2539%2539%2537%252D%2530%2534%2529%252C%2520Each%2520 ) which I think is the one that runs under the intake previously mentioned. -Eric Picture is a bit poor, but that looks like the item. You should also blow air into the purge air line (item#3 in diagram): Thanks for the diagram. It's strange, I found this thread (http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/33970-strange-whistling-sound/?hl=%2Bstrange+%2Bwhistling+%2Bsound) last night and it references the valve I purchased being located basically behind the passenger side headlight. I think his was a MY '00, did they change things that much year over year? Thanks for all your help, it's been helpful. -Eric The drawing I gave you is from the 2001 OBD II diagnostics manual for the 986 Boxster, and is current and correct to my knowledge. But I need to point out that Loren is correct, there are valves at the EVAP canister, which is in the passenger's wheel well, as well us under the intake manifold; you need to be sure about which valve you are asking about, there is more than one..............and the one pictured in the thread you brought up is at the canister while the purge valve is under the intake runners.........

Try TSB 8/06 0101 Breakdowns Due To Loose Ground Strap -- dated Sep 13, 2006.

OK, that makes a lot of sense, thank you. I agree (now) that there was nothoing wrong with the sensors :) Based on a thread I read I would need to either replace the valve I purchased, or another valve ( http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=996-110-129-06-M100&catalog_description=&Regeneration%2520Valve%2520from%2520Throttle%2520Body%2520for%2520Fuel%2520Vapor%2520System%252C%2520Boxster%252FBoxster%2520S%2520%2528%2531%2539%2539%2537%252D%2530%2534%2529%252C%2520Each%2520 ) which I think is the one that runs under the intake previously mentioned. -Eric Picture is a bit poor, but that looks like the item. You should also blow air into the purge air line (item#3 in diagram):

OK, the P0175 is often a code often caused by something as simple as the fluid level being a little too low; are you sure the fluid level is correct? If the fluid level is correct, the speed sensor in question is mounted to a conductor plate on the top of the valve body in the transmission:

Perhaps you need to be more specific on which valve you are talking about - as the one in this thread is the one on the canister. What was your fault code(s)? I ordered part# 99660521301 based on reading a couple threads and getting the P0446 code on my car. I have replaced both sensors in front of the pre cats, still getting the P0446 and also P1128 & P1130. I saw a couple threads here refernceing this valve as well as the one under the intake manifold. Also when I fill up with gas the car is very hard to start, I have to crank it several times and also use the gas pedal, making me think the evap tank valve may be the better choice to replace. I welcome any suggestions. -Eric Fill up problems are usually related to the flapper in the fill neck which is totally unrelated to your issues, do a search as it is often as simple as a blown fuse. P0446 is for high flow resistance in the EVAP canister, usually associated with blocked purge air line. Replacing the O2 sensors was a common mistake for the P1128 and 1130 codes, which is an indication of an overly lean condition caused by intake air leaks or low fuel delivery problems causing the engine to run overly lean, there was nothing wrong the sensors.

I think you are referring to the tank venting valve (item #20 in the diagram) is under the driver's side intake runners, near the throttle body:

Rather than go through all this experimentation, how about simply getting the system (and the cap) pressure tested? Takes about 15 min. and will positively confirm or deny a leak.............

See if the codes return or if they were just ghost codes. It recently came to light that some Cayenne's came equipped with a DME from a different manufacturer (Siemens if memory serves) that cause some weird diagnostics problems with the Durametric software, so you might want to check with Durametric as I understand they have a beta software version that offers a work around for these issues on vehicles equipped this DME.

The ignition switch electrical section failure can cause no end of weird problems, ranging from odd MIL lights, to DME codes, and to entire car systems that cease to function and then suddenly come back to life. Fortunately, the fix is cheap (the electrical section of the switch retails for less than $20) and an easy DIY project that has been the subject of multiple write ups both here and on other sites.

Some Cayenne's came with a different DME (different manufacturer), which leads to diagnostics issues. Durametric knows about it and has a different software version that is a work around for these vehicles. Give them a call.

It is my understanding that the DME supplies both the diagnostics function, and controls how much the lights move and when they move according to input signals from the suspension sensors. I have no idea how the lights are going to behave if you bypass the DME.

No you will not; the retrofit kit gives you the ability to have the low beam HID lights swing up and fill in the high beams, but you do not get the auto leveling or diagnostic function's of the factory setup.

Because the DME has to be programmed to accept the leveling system, just hooking everything up will cause it to throw codes. Several people have been down this road before...............

Right up to where you connect it to the DME and get the DME to accept the retrofit.................

You cannot go too small on the wheels because they will not clear your brakes. I am also not sure the you can dial this out with an alignment, but would suggest talking to a quality alignment shop in your area to see if they can help in any way.

One of the biggest problems (besides egas and VarioCam Plus) in trying to use a 2002 DME in a 1999 car is the fact that by 2002, a lot of the subsystem controllers (such as AC, cruise control, etc.) had been moved over to CAN bus technology, which simply did not exist in the 1999 car. Can it be overcome? Sure; with enough time, money, welding rod, and duct tape, anything is possible, if expensive.

Probably very little differences. The IMS change did not happen until mid-model year 2006. Actually, the non serviceable IMS began to show up in model year 2005 (the only way to tell which one is in a 2005 it to take the car apart); all 2006's have it.

If you can get the axel out, which is not hard and done without dropping the engine, you can also replace the boot your self; it is not that hard and has been written up before. If you choose to go the replacement axel route, watch where they come from as a lot of online sellers are pushing inferior Asian made replacements that are often short lived. In either case, be sure to Loctite the axel flange fasteners and torque them to specs.

The best way is to put the car up in the air and rotate the wheels and listen, usually a bad bearing is very obvious when you test this way. I'm pretty sure the 99 front wheel bearing is not the same as the rear one on your car as the part numbers are different.

If you are referring to the sensor, it is simply inserted into the rubber/plastic holder which is then pushed onto the ridges of the intake runners. No fasteners involved.

No, usually not, unless the Bendix drive is really chewed up. If the gear on the nose of the starter looks OK, just clean and lubricate the Bendix drive shaft assembly so the gear moves back and forth easily, and it's "Miller time"................

Griot's Garage makes an excellent and reasonably priced leather reconditioned that can work wonders on old leather.

Relatively cheap as unless the Bendix drive on the front of the starter or the flywheel have already been chewed to death, all that is needed is to pull the starter, clean the Bendix drive (WD40 will do fine), and then lubricate it (we use a dry Teflon spray from DuPont) and you are back in business.

Anywhere but from Porsche (their tool pricing is outrageous); you will need to search online Porsche specialty tool houses like Samstag and others for the best deal.