judgejon

Welcome to the forum. The Turbo Twists look great. Post up a picture or two... I take it you use different wheels and tires in the summer? Where I live I'm fortunate to be able to use same tires and rims all year. The answers to your questions are no, and no. Happy Christmas. Merry Everything.

Consider investing in a Durametric code reader. Good luck. S F

hope the rest of the car is ok. did you buy from a private party, or dealer? I'd worry about how that wood screw got up in there. Someone doing some work under the proverbial "shade tree." welcome to the forum. Cheers,

have you listened carefully to the CAT? at idle a deteriorating CAT can make clicking sounds.

check the pulleys. Idler wheel pulley can make a high pitched whistle. sounds are sometimes hard to locate.

this is a good addition to the many threads on this topic. Thanks.

yes, check the search engine. there are many threads on this, including many with step-by-step photos re radar detector placements. My V1 is up next to the rear view mirror. The remote unit is down on the batwing below the console cubby. There is a thread with pics on this exact placement. You can wire into the cabin light connection. Or, as I did, if you do not have heated seats, use the empty fuse connection in the fuse box, wire in a fuse connector and run a line up the pillar to the rear view mirror area. Any empty switched fuse connection would work, but the heated seat fuse seems to be the best, unless of course you have heated seats (which I don't because I live in an area with a mild year round climate). See the post above by Creekman if you need to find an open switched fuse. Loren notes a good suggestion as well, and I recall a thread with step by step photos of this connection as well. It's perfect if you want to mount the detector directly into your console. Good pics on this. The search engine is your friend. Don't change the cigarette lighter to switched power. Use the lighter plug for connection of a battery charger to maintain the battery if you are not regularly driving the car, say over winter storage, or when away on a long trip with your wife who insists on taking her suv to lug all the luggage. These cars are battery hogs, and more than a few folks have reported a drained out battery after a long period of storage. Drained out battery can lead to overloaded alternator. Trickle charger is perfect via cigarette lighter. Just open the passenger window about 1/4 inch for the wire. Of course, there are many threads about hooking up a trickle charger to the battery. I just didn't want to mess around doing that. You can find good trickle chargers on line. If you get one with the Porsche logo you will pay about triple for it. Check with Sunset Parts, or look around on line. Porsche branded charger is a generic from a company I don't recall at the moment. Good luck.

Yes, Sunset is great. I could easily believe that merely branding an item as a Porsche item would raise its price. Been there, done that. The $1,600 could almost pass as a true Porsche moment. Almost. What is this place in Miami? Sounds like a rip-off waiting to happen. And, I know where Beaufort SC is !! You've come to a website for truly good advice and comments. Welcome.

Did you ever run a Durametric or piwis test? What was the code found by your inde shop? Glad this worked out ok for you. Fuel pump change over will likely pay off in the long run.

Beru 99760210400. $372.00 $62.00 each. Installed at 50k. Good luck.

this stuff is actually a little bit funny, as it reminds me of an issue with the 911sc heater fan switches. The heat came on, via the heat exchangers on the exhaust manifold, by pulling up either of 2 levers located between the seats. There was a fan connected to the heater control levers. If you pulled up either lever a tab on the level connected with a somewhat long slender copper arm that got pushed onto another little piece of copper. Then, viola, the heater fan would turn on and increase the flow of the warm air. This was useful only at low speeds because at higher speeds there was plenty of air without the fan. If the fan didn't come on, you could bend the copper back into a good placement. The solution was to disconnect the copper arms and wire up a little switch to turn on the fan when needed. Seems this little bit of 911sc low tech was passed on to the 996 reverse light switch. Very, very Porsche don't you think?

Nope, knock on wood, Mahle filter seems to do the job. Car is serviced by very good local indie. Never heard of problems with using Mahle filters. I thought Mahle was the Porsche branded filter.

Greetings from the Northern California coast. I'm especially enjoying this conversation from two Londoners as I was at Merton College, Oxford, too many years ago. I cannot add anything of substance to this interesting discussion, except to say that the red light on the center console lock switch is always on after the doors lock automatically at about 3 mph when starting off forward or in reverse. I've learned to live with it. If bothersome when traveling, just press the switch to unlock the doors. Cheers,

Absolutely, positively, immediately do the IMS fix. And whatever else you might think of while you're at it to save labor costs. Clutch, RMS, etc. The peace of mind you will experience will be worth the cost. Trust everyone who says this, they are correct. Consider the "permanent" oil feed install fix. I'm considering when I redo the IMS retro in about another 20k miles or so. Your IMS may in fact possibly never fail. Mine was in great shape, and I have it sitting on the workbench in my garage. Along with the chain tensioners from my old 911sc. To reiterate, this is a mandatory fix. Good thoughts,

Always fun to talk about oil.... I use RedLine 10-40. Filter is Mahle 99610722553. Hengst air filters, cabin and engine. RedLine transaxle and front differential. Bosch FGR5KQEO plugs. Have fun....

thanks.

Again resurrecting this old post: I've just noticed this happening to my C4$ headlights. What is the point of this UV coating? It appears to be coming off near the top of both headlights. 55k miles on the car. Does it really matter, other than it obviously looks pretty bad? Both headlights appear to be functioning correctly. Is this worth bothering with? What happens if the headlights are simply left alone? Thanks in advance for any answers.

I truly have no clue as to how to even begin to answer your question. But, I'm curious. This car you describe is not possibly "street legal." At least I have a serious doubt about your comment to that effect. Question: where is the general area where you live? I might want to move there. The car sounds awesome. Good luck.

good luck. sounds like maf, and those are expensive, but often can be cleaned with a spray-on maf cleaner. Loren is right, don't spend any money until you run a durametric test, or get a read-out from a dealership. Might be someone in your area who would let you use/borrow a durametric. Check with local PCA chapter. Maf issue would not necessarily trigger a CEL coming on.

Glad to know this problem was solved. Your Durametric will quickly clear the airbag light. The rat or mouse nest pic is great. I have great empathy for this situation. There is a thread somewhere on the forum with this story. I could not get gas to flow into the gas tank. Checked all vapor relays, etc, with no joy. Trusted inde mechanic thought it best to start from top down to diagnose problem, rather than start by taking of right front fender. Off came the battery. Under the battery tray was a mouse nest. The varmints had taken scraps of rags from around the garage and built a nest under the battery tray. The wires that control the vapor switch are located right there, and sure enough one wire was chewed through. Simple cheap solution of just connected and heat sealing the wires together. Labor to get there was about $750. I truly feel your pain.

For sure try to clean the MAF first. Even replace it if there is any doubt. If it turns out you do need an O2 sensor, I would replace all 4 of them at the same time. I think there are 4 on the 2000? Good luck.

try putting some weight in the front compartment. try coil-over shocks. alignment can't hurt, and wheel balancing, but you don't describe any shimmy in the front, so I'm not sure an alignment is what you need.

Please don't start laughing at my reply. I understand exactly what you're saying re the MAF. But what kind of a back road were you on? Fairly straight-line? Lots of twists and curves? On a fast acceleration around a twisty curve you can get the ABS/PSM lights to come on if your tires are mismatched. The car will throw the ABS/PSM codes if you run different brands of tires on the car, even if the fronts or rears are paired. If that happens other codes may also be thrown. Just asking... A better answer is that you fixed it the problem by simply cleaning the MAF. Get the car back out onto the same back road and run again. Good luck.

the oil wars are back! again. ok, here goes.... Red Line, 10/40.

Are you talking seriously about getting a Porsche Carrera? There are some lovely colors out there, and of course this is a clear matter of personal preference. But, that said this is a German racing car. White or Silver, please.