hahnmgh63

Not the Toyota fluid but I've been on Redline D4 for over a year. Seemed to shift a little better in the cold than it did on the OEM fluid, feels the same when warm.

I didn't know you could get TPMS on a 2003?

I think he's talking about power for the Secondary Air Injection pumps by the firewall.

I have PCM2.1 so it may be a little different but the Nav (DVD drive in my case) is under the passenger seat, not sure if you can see the connection from the back with the seat raised and all the way forward (could someone possibly have kicked it?). The CD changer as well as the amp are in the right side rear cubby compartment by the rear hatch. If you don't have a CD changer then the MOST connection should still be there but it should have a plastic bypass plug plugged into it that lets the fiber optic light signal continue. If you turn on the PCM and unplug any of these connectors you should see a red light coming out of one of the two brown cables, the light passes through whatever device it's plugged into and continues down the other brown cable to the next device in the loop.

Hopefully somebody around you has Durametric. Put a post out for Durametric help in your area in the title and see if someone responds or just go out and purchase the Enthusiast version.

The compass in my dash disappeared for no reason a few months back. I'll someday run it by the dealer to reprogram for it. Even though it's on my options sticker you know they will charge me to add it back on?

Did Sonnen happen to say when they started using the newer design?

Anyone tired to locate the replacements without the resistors? Do the Ziza from ECS have the resistors?

If it clears after a restart and then comes back it is probably a very repeatable fault and not intermittent which could mean many things. Bad TCU (Tranny Contol Unit), bad wiring, Stuck Solenoid, Tranny Temp sensor, many things. But Durametric should narrow the fault down but sometimes it can just give a genaric reading but it's a must to start with. There are a few people on the list here with some good Tranny know how so maybe one of them may pipe in, also try posting over on Rennlist when you read the fault.

It looks like the transmission is in limp mode. That is the sign on many of the newer transmissions that they have a fault. I'm not 100% sure on what the limp mode display is on the Cayenne but it usually entails the Drive letters or gear numbers going into a reverse highlight. Does it go away when you come to a stop? Or just when you restart the car? I would scan it or have it scanned right away, do you have Durametric?

Congratulations on the diagnosis and I agree with Loren. Cars are getting more electronic and more complicated with every model. I completely stripped and replaced the wiring harness on my '74 911 but I could never handle that kind of job on the Cayenne.

Do you have Durametric? When I did mine I had to drive a few miles to get it to kick in. Heard from another guy who said he had to go through the suspension leveling/ride height procedure in Durametric to get his to work. When I started my '06CTTS in place the pump wouldn't turn on, I took it out of the shop and drove a few miles and I head the pump start to kick on and all was well. Came back and cleared the stored code and been like new ever since.

Some good info there. Thanks for posting.

I'm more with JFP on this that you want to completely drain the system, not just the resevoir. I think you may be able to find one of the hoses underneath going to the oil cooler and just drain it from there. I would refill and run it for a few minutes and do it again. You really don't want to replace the pump or damage the rack.

There is a TSB: Servotronic Control Unit: Steering is Hard and Stiff After Starting the Engine 13/08 ENU 4869 4 The TSB is 2006 up to 2008. Not sure if your CS is a late '05 it may apply? No jokes about the title please :)

No, there working fine. They were OEM brand, I think they were Phillips or Osram.

I would do the Secondary Cat delete and the ECU tune first. Catback exhausts are expensive and most dyno results you see in magazines have relatively little or no gain. Eurocharged did my tune as was willing to readjust it for my needs. They did encourage me to do before and after boost, and timing logs to see how all was working out. I haven't really seen how these Diverter valves are an improvement, they look fancy but nobody is going to see them on the Cayenne. If you have enough miles and age on your stock ones I would just go with new OEM, they did supposedly do an improvement on them a few years ago.

I also agree with most of the threads above, the air suspension is great. 65K on my '06CTTS and I did have to rebuild the air compressor 6 months ago with the VW rebuild kit but that was cheap and it was an easy fix. Since you are a mechanic many of the faults that you hear about with the Cayenne's are easy fixes. Some may be a bit time consuming but they are relatively easy to repair. I did my Coolant pipes with the Aluminum replacements a couple of years (preventative) ago and other than the air compressor it has been 100% reliable, ok, an occasional PCM fault but usually easily resettable. You'll love the Cayenne, and if it's a Turbo you'll love it more, just not the fuel economy.

The rear is the one that fails. Actually the shaft itself doesn't fail it is a long jointed shaft and there is a Center support bearing that has a rubber center carrier to it and that is what fails. Many vehicles have center support bearing problems but the Cayenne's seems to be worse. Seems like their is a wider rubber web than many other vehicles so gives more room to stretching and probably was intended to absorb more vibrations but at the expense of longevity.

The servo motors are known to fail but that is usually associated with the vehicle being stuck in only high or low range.

Yea, when you do a cold start the Secondary Air Injection pumps/compressors are running and the ECU tells the car to idle a little high when cold to work in conjunction with the SAI system to more efficiently burn the slightly richer starting/cold run mixture. When the SAI pumps shut down your idle also will drop, within a couple of seconds.

I can't take credit for this, someone on here posted this a couple of months ago and I just copied it and pasted it to a Pig repair file. Not exactly what you were asking for but some useful info. With the activation of drivers outer door handle - left pump primes fuel rail.starting procedure: left and right pumps onFuel tank qty >60 Lright pump onfull load: left and right pumps on.Fuel tank qty < 60 Lleft pump on.full load: left and right pumps on. Here is the info on the elbow: ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 955 620 911 00 angled pipe see technical information service group 2 KD-NR.2066 13/10 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here are the fuel test specifications: --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Switch on both fuel pumps using the adapter P 9479 and read the pressure on the pressure gauge. The fuel pressure should be approx. 4.0 bar. Then switch off both fuel pumps and check the steady-state pressure. The fuel pressure must not drop below 3.0 bar after 10 minutes. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- You don't need adapter P-9479. You can power on the pumps by starting the engine. To power on a specific pump, pull the fuse for the other pump from the under hood fuse box. The pump that still has power will automatically be switched to. Obviously your P!G failed the pressure-drop test.

I've done both and a Eurocharged tune on my CTTS. Slight, very slight difference with the Secondary Cat's but the Pig sounds so ever slightly better with them removed. IPD Plenum, I got a great deal, found it on Ebay as closeout for almost half price of retail and can't really say I notice a difference but my stock (Cheap crappy) Plenum was showing some delamination of the plastic when I removed it. The Eurocharged tune was mostly a throttle response improvement, slightly noticeable increase. Keep in mind the Turbo S is the same engine as a regular Turbo, just bigger Intercoolers and higher stock boost so most aftermarket tuners can show a larger increase with the standard Turbos but there isn't as much leeway to work with on the Turbo S as Porsche already took up some of the slack.

JWS3309 is a transmission fluid specification and yes whatever brand of fluid you go with it should meet or exceed this spec. Some have went with the Mobil 3309 and some with the Toyota stuff which is supposedly the same as what Porsche sells at a high price. I used Redline D4 ATF which exceeds 3309 specifications and seems to shift better, and it is a full synthetic. There are other top quality fluids which meet or exceed the JWS3309 specification and would probably work fine. The new quantity is around 9liters and they say the refill is about 8.5liters so get at least 9qts and a filter with a new oil pan gasket of course. Sometime in late 2004 I believe they increased the size of the oil pan slightly and the later Pigs take about an extra 1/2 qt capacity. Maybe someone will chime in with the exact amount. So if you haven't had your transmission or its oil pan changed the posted quantities above should work. If you are a contributing member there is a TSB which lists the quantities and another which lists the transmission # when the quantity changed as well as the new capacity. You will need Durametric or Vagcom if your a VW/Audi owner to plug into the OBDII port to monitor the refill as there is a procedure. After all is back together you fill the pan to full, then start the motor and immediately start filling some more as the fluid in the pan is pulled up into the transmission. You stop filling when the fluid is dripping out and the temp is 40'C. If you get it filled before the temp gets there then just leave the plug out an let it drip while the fluid expands and the temp increase to 40'C. If you don't get it filled by the time the fluid gets to 40'C then you need to plug it and shut it off and let it cool for an hour or more, turn key on an make sure it is below 40'C, if so restart and start filling again immediately, better to let it drop below at least 30'C so you have some time to get it full. You will see how the funky refill periscope plug works, and just need to make a refill hose/tool to work. I actually have the Porsche/VW/Audi tool. They just have different adapters at the end but use the same tool. If you have a manual please refer to it or send me a PM if you have any questions.

If you have Durametric it may lead you to all of the faults known or unknown which may narrow things down some. Open the door all the way if you haven't yet and you will see the rubber boot going to the door. I sent you a PM