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hahnmgh63

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Everything posted by hahnmgh63

  1. Maybe: http://www.revmaxconverters.com/index.php/09d-tr-60sn-838.html http://www.sonnax.com/articles/244-aisin-aw-tr-60sn-vw-audi-09d-solutions
  2. Do a search here and on Rennlist as I remember hearing something about the Shifter module in the center console going bad. Very well could be the culprit. To unlock the shifter: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-Cayenne/94-TRANS-Gearshift_Lock_Override/94-TRANS-Gearshift_Lock_Override.htm
  3. Since all of that work has been done recheck all of the hoses and wiring connections. Moving around those plastic lines can cause cracks as they get real brittle after a few years with age & heat (cheap plastic).
  4. 17553/P1145 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Short to Plus Possible Symptoms MIL on Excessive smoke from Exhaust Reduced Engine Output Possible Causes Fuse or Wiring Harness Issue Failed Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) Possible Solutions Check Fuses and Wiring Harness, see Factory Repair Manual Replace Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) 17563/P1155/004437 - Manifold Abs.Pressure Sensor (G71): Circ. Short to B+ Possible Symptoms Limp mode Possible Causes Connection(s) to/from Manifold Abs.Pressure Sensor faulty Manifold Abs.Pressure Sensor (G71) faulty Pipes/hoses not/wrongly attached Possible Solutions Check wiring and connections Check / Replace Manifold Abs.Pressure Sensor (G71) Check pipes and hoses 16618/P0234/000564 - Boost Pressure Regulation: Limit Exceeded (Overboost Condition) Possible Symptoms Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON Boost Pressure too high Reduced Power Output Possible Causes Hoses incorrectly connected, disconnected, blocked or leaking Boost Pressure Control Valve (N75) faulty Boost Pressure Sensor (G31) faulty Turbo Charger stuck/faulty Possible Solutions Check Charge Pressure Control System Perform Output Test (to check the Turbo Charger) Perform Basic Setting (to check the Charge Pressure Control) Perform Pressure Test to locate Leaks Check/Replace Boost Pressure Control Valve (N75) Check/Replace Boost Pressure Sensor (G31) Check/Replace Turbo Charger
  5. Good pics and good info. I am also getting ready to do it all. TRW upper and lower arms but now with this info I've also ordered the upper shock mounts.
  6. Always good to change the transfer case and Diff fluids no matter how many miles. Many believe that on an Automatic tranny that hasn't been changed with a lot of miles that fresh fluid can loosen varnish and/or sludge which can possibly plug some of the small passageways before it can get filtered. Also fresh fluid can possibly cause old clutch plates to slip since they are weaker (less material) and lower friction in new fluid. cn1057, that is good mileage on the front diff. For some reason the front diff and transfer case fluids always look the worse, transfer case I can understand (not much fluid and clutches constantly working on Tq transfer). There have been a fair amount of front differential failures. I don't know if anyone was really tracking to see if it was just a bad batch or certain gear ratios. There were a lot of failures in the Touareg's too which use a version of the same diff. Some gear ratio differences between Turbo, non-Turbo V8, and V6's.
  7. Lifetime powertrain warranty. Check out the warranty company and if they are reputable buy it. You'll still have the standard stuff if it hasn't happened yet, Cardan shaft (it's right at that age & miles), Brake rotors (front) are coming due in the next 20~30K depending on how it was driven and they're expensive but work **** well. Coolant pipes were done but what about the Coolant Tee's? Years ago us poor bastards didn't know about the Tee's and just did the pipes and ended up having to do most of the work all over again.
  8. Per TSB 2/04 3965 Approved Oils - Final Drives and Transfer case, it says rear diff with non-locking diff is 1.4 litres, w/locking diff 1.6 litres.
  9. For the front (1 litre) & rear (1.4 litre) diff's you will need 75w-90 synthetic Gear oil meeting GL-5 specs. For the transfer case (.85 litre) of ATF meeting Esso LT 71141 specs and for the tranny the Mobil 3309 will be just fine but you should also replace the pan filter and gasket. I used Redline D4 ATF as it meets both tranny and transfer case specs but if you use the Mobil 3309 don't use it for the transfer case as it is not a full synthetic and it only meets the Aisin/Toyota JWS 3309 spec. For the transfer case you could go to an Audi/VW dealer and get a bottle of the transfer case fluid for a Q7 or Touareg as they use the same transfer case but are probably cheaper than a Porsche dealers price, price it from all 3 dealers and go with which ever is less. The tranny has a special fill procedure. The procedure says: Engine off, after replacing the pan & gasket (make sure the O-ring is around the neck of the filter and lubricated before pushing it into the valve body and bolting it on), fill the pan with fluid till it is full, then start the engine and start filling again (fluid from the pan gets sucked up by the tranny oil pump), when the pan is full (engine still running and fluid temp obviously increasing) you plug the fill hole off (should be slowly dripping as the temp of the fluid is increasing and expanding) at 40'C fluid temp. With that said, how you measure the 40'C is going to be up to you. Many/most, that do a bit of work on their Cayenne's and/or have other (post '96) Porsches too use a software called Durametric that replicates many of Porsche's own PIWIS software. There are other aftermarket software tools out there but not as popular as Durametric. If you by chance have any VAG cars then the Rosstech Vagcom works great for this too. Some have even used a Infra red tool and just pointed it at the pan/fluid dripping then used this method. Others have also just filled and when the dripping fluid felt a bit warm then capped it off. I will say it is almost no problem being a little over full then being a little under full. Also, while it is warming up and you are still filling it you can put it in drive (obvioulsy parking brake on and foot on the brake, take no chances in it moving) for a few seconds, then reverse and repeat a couple of times (shop manual says to do this), helps the fluid heat and to get air out of the system.
  10. I also believe that is the average speed. It can be reset the same as the average MPG or trip Odometer. And it is low (18mph) so you need to drive faster :)
  11. Curious, how many miles are on the Pig, oil change intervals, what oil are you using? First I have heard about it on the 4.8 but I guess some of them are starting to get up there in mileage now too.
  12. PCM2.1 (DVD, N. America, and updated 2yrs ago) went from 2005-2008, yours is a PCM2.0 (CD slower and regional only, and not updated in 7yrs). It would take some re-wiring and a DVD drive to install under the passenger seat to replace the CD drive. It would be better for you to do a search on here and/or Rennlist.com and look into an aftermarket option. Some will still use the MOST system so you don't have to replace the Bose speakers, amd, and such.
  13. What year? Heard the '03 or '04 pigs had some problems. I think Mudman knows something about which ones? And did you just replace the one? I think I would do both of the fronts as pair, same recommendations for replacing any shocks or struts, always the pair.
  14. I'm running 10.5 x 21" BBS RSII wheels with no problems, the offset is 52mm.
  15. Pop off the panel. Becareful doing it but work along the edge and it's fairly easy to get off and on. When I replaced my camera (with an aftermarket Ebay item) I had it off & on a few times. You may just find a little contact cleaner on the Fakra connector is all you need. The smaller square connector is for the video and the larger 2 or 3 wire connector is for the power to extend/retract. Does yours always extend/retract? If so then the camera portion is all you need to work with. Porsche only replaces the whole assembly for something like $1500 and you still get 10yr old tech. You can get 10yr old tech on Ebay for $20 but will need a RCA to Fakra connector and it looks as good as OEM or possibly even better.
  16. What model of PCM? Have you updated the software? Holding down the 1, 4, & 8 buttons simultaneously.
  17. Lots but not many of the part numbers cross reference. Many of the computer modules are the same, servos for the HVAC, Most of the Suspension pieces are the same (although Porsche specs a different bushing hardness but most aftermarket for VW, Audi, Porsche all have the same bushings).
  18. burixxl, you would only remove the glove box if you were working on a RHD car to get at the 3 Servos. On left hand drive it is a tougher job as the HVAC layout doesn't change so it is still the Left side which now makes it more difficult as the Steering column is partially in the way. If you are getting foggy windows without the A/C running then the right side is where the fresh air Servo is located, it is close to and just above where the Cabin (Pollen) filter goes.
  19. Thanks ciaka, that is some valuable information. I've bookmarked it as I may be in the market soon myself.
  20. Forgot to throw this in. This PCM is a replacement head with a mid-'07 manufacture date. Replaced 3yrs ago so it's even newer than the Pig it's in.
  21. For no reason when listening to XM it will pop over to FM. Then after a while it will pop back to XM on it's own. Just started a week ago. Done the 1,4,8 reset but still happening. I've been happy with my PCM up to now, it's got the latest maps and software along with Mobridge but if this keeps up I may have to go aftermarket as there are more options out there now it looks like.
  22. That is the Antenna for GPS w/o Satellite Radio. If you have XM/Sirius then you need part 95564711701 which combines the GPS & Sat Radio into one antenna. Congrats on the repair.
  23. I've heard on the Cayenne that the upper bushing go before the lowers, that is true for Audi's too. I have a new set of uppers to install on my '06 CTTS with 75K but it's not clunking yet but probably not too far in the future. Funny that CA has the highest Gasoline tax in the nation and your right, some of the worst roads. Even the highway seem to use a courser rock in their mix which adds to road noise.
  24. I think the immobilizer program has to be programmed for the vehicle it goes in unless it was disable which can also be done by the tuning company so it can be swapped to different vehicles. Most companies don't want to defeat it though as they want everyone to purchase a new program through them and if a car gets wrecked then the program usually dies with the car or someone has to pay a dealer or someone with the know how to reprogram it or defeat it so they can use the ECU in their vehicle.
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