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987_RDC

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Everything posted by 987_RDC

  1. 987_RDC
    Perfect. Thanks for the replies. I couldn't confirm from the various other postings. I have a set of LN tools but was scratching my head on the differences between the variocam and plus tools.
  2. 987_RDC
    I've seen quite a few posts detailing removal of camshafts in the 3.4L engine. There is a Porsche tool that appears to be a very long screw that compresses the VarioCam as part of the removal process. Is this the same tool needed on VarioCam Plus engines? I see the actuator is external on the 3.6L. Also what is the diameter and thread pitch of the VarioCam tool? I had read 4mm and left handed threaded....but unconfirmed.
  3. 987_RDC
    I will try and take some pics when I do the passanger side of my 996. The window down function (upon exit) has been intermittent and I want a perfect functioning ride. Edit: The pics I tried to take of the switch didn't come out clear. The switch is quite tiny but can be removed and cleaned after getting the lock mechanism out.
  4. 987_RDC
    In my 987 it was under the passanger seat. I had to "loop out" the part for Tooki install.
  5. 987_RDC
    Is the rear fabric tight from the cords that connect to the rear of the top? I know you can adjust that portion but wondering if the bolt came loose.
  6. 987_RDC
    Without a PIWIS you are shooting in the dark. Go check every microswitch and adjust the metal tabs to ensure engagement. It might look like one switch but will be a prior one not completing in time. Then the process will reverse and report failure. My 99 cab looked to be the roof top switch but then was a damaged final rear latch that runs off the clamshell. Others have reported adjusting side "wings" switches solving their issue.
  7. 987_RDC
    You might want to call Palo Alto Speedometer and talk with the knowledgeable folks there. They can update your cluster to correct mileage.
  8. 987_RDC
    Replacing the cables also or just the motor? Motor swap is pretty simple with removing the screws and then opening with undoing clips. Then put the ends of cable back in along with sliding pieces and snap together (may need some grease if new).
  9. 987_RDC
    Yep P0455 is large EVAP leak. Occurs during the initialization of EVAP when system attempts to allow tank to hold vacuum. On older Ford Exporer it was 1st the gas cap but then the filler neck that was bad. All signs do point to ****ty seal on the aftermarket cap.....
  10. 987_RDC
    Another solution would be to get the CD changer wiring that creates an audio in. Then use a 3rd party radio from sirus etc to enable.
  11. 987_RDC
    Try flipping the battery, then replacing (worked on one old key). Or other remedy (which did not work for me) is to turn ignition one click and press the unlock button. Otherwise suck it up for a new remote internals. I fought it for 4 months but eventually that was the only solution.
  12. 987_RDC
    Anyone run into the need to fab up an adapter for the LN tool to get the bearing out? I had to weld two nuts together to have the correct threads on a '99 bolt.
  13. 987_RDC
    Clutch switch? Perhaps the car thinks you haven't pushed it in.
  14. 987_RDC
    Ordered! Thanks.
  15. 987_RDC
    I agree that a petroleum distillate product could cause seal damage. Thus selecting white lithium. I will try the silicon spray.
  16. 987_RDC
    I will try red arrow area. Is silicon spray better than white lithium grease? If that picture is a blow up of the part that goes into the firewall then that is exactly where I hear it. (bubble portion)
  17. 987_RDC
    When depressing the clutch rapidly there is an audible squeak in the cabin. I've removed the clutch assist spring and confirmed it is still present. This does not appear to be related to the clutch fork since 996 02+ and sound is inside the cabin, not exterior. It appears to be coming from the black plastic "coupler" that threads the cable through the firewall. Anyone tackle this problem? I tried some white lithium grease with no luck....
  18. 987_RDC
    Fits great.
  19. 987_RDC
    Is the MAF in front of the supercharger or after? How is the bypass done? Vent to air or cycle back into the intake? I found on my Novi 2k system (centrifigual supercharger) that draw through MAF with the blow-off air vented back into the inlet (behind MAF) resulted in a very excellent street drivability. Same system later adapted to an atmosphere vent and blow throgh MAF was great for drag strip (high RPM launchs etc) but boggged badly in stop n go. So it may very well be simply the design. Unless this was a sudden occurance.....
  20. 987_RDC
    Yikes. Winterizing sounds like a big pain in the ***. Glad to be in CA (except for taxes, crazies, etc)
  21. 987_RDC
    Sad to hear of all the problems. Seems you have resolved the air delivery issues. Other than that then the two culprits would be spark and fuel. When were the coils last replaced? Is the mapping in ECU correctly adapting the injector duty cycle....
  22. 987_RDC
    Usually aftermarket springs require firmer dampening ability. If you are going to be paying for the labor, why not have a fresh set of struts paired with the H&R? Going with full strut remove/replace should cut labor (compared with tearing off M30 springs and re-installing) and then could sell the M30 set complete in used parts....
  23. 987_RDC
    Anyone have the electronic "guts" from a key that they don't need anymore? I wanted to experiment with swapping internal components to see if I could revive my key fob. Please shoot me a PM. Maybe fix yours with parts from mine? Willing to mail back to find out!
  24. 987_RDC
    There was no code. I had to manually work through each of the micro-switch steps. Turns out a few of mine were busted but the final latch one solved it. Maybe check the side drop "wings" and be sure the switching are being properly depressed. Might need to bend the metal tabs on some of the switches to get them to fire sooner. I had to adjust my top switch (inside latching mechanism) that way.
  25. 987_RDC
    Go read a thread where I fought a similar situation on my top. For me it turned out to be the final rear latch. The calibration sequence will not complete unless all the switches work. I also got confused by the top reversing before latching, it was a red herring on mine.
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