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Changed batteries in keys


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Did both of your keys work before the battery swap? If not, or if you didn't use it for a while before, it could be the buttons themselves.

I had an extra key laying around that I hadn't used in a year...the battery was dead so I changed it out, but it didn't work afterward. I took the cover off and pressed the little metal buttons manually with a piece of dull plastic until they started to click and the red key light started to flash. I put it all together and the key remote worked fine.

Otherwise...maybe the batteries were just old to begin with?

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Did both of your keys work before the battery swap? If not, or if you didn't use it for a while before, it could be the buttons themselves.

I had an extra key laying around that I hadn't used in a year...the battery was dead so I changed it out, but it didn't work afterward. I took the cover off and pressed the little metal buttons manually with a piece of dull plastic until they started to click and the red key light started to flash. I put it all together and the key remote worked fine.

Otherwise...maybe the batteries were just old to begin with?

Yep i changed batteries in both keys. And both keys worked before i changed the batteries. But the batteries was about 1 year old so i thought i might aswell change them because i had to get like right by the car to have the remote locking/unlocking to work. But after i changed the batteries one of the keys didnt work at all, and one barely worked for a while... They both blink red when i press them, so there is power... Weird.

Do i have to reprogram the keys or something? Or could it be my alarm box that is faulty? I've had some leaks but i have covered up the alarm box with a few ziplock bags and ducktape so no water at all should come in to the alarmbox. And anyway i think it's weird that it should happen just when i changed batteries on the keys...

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I picked this up off another site; perhaps it will help:

There is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) that covers this.

"After replacing the battery, check if the remote control functions. If the remote control does not function, the processor could have stopped. If this is the case, the LED of the remote control either does not light when the button is pressed or it lights continuously, i.e., longer than length of time the button is pressed. The processor must be restarted."

"2. Restarting the processor.

2.1 Remove battery as described under Step 1.2.

2.2 Inserting battery briefly with polarity reversed.

2.2.1 After a waiting time of at least 10 seconds, slide battery with the polarity of the battery reversed (positive terminal downwards) under the tab (Figure 1, arrow 2).

2.2.2 Clip battery downward into the holder.

2.2.3 After a waiting time of approx. 3 seconds, remove this incorrectly polarized battery again.

2.3 Install battery as described under Step 1.3.

2.4 Check the function of the remote control."

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I picked this up off another site; perhaps it will help:

There is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) that covers this.

"After replacing the battery, check if the remote control functions. If the remote control does not function, the processor could have stopped. If this is the case, the LED of the remote control either does not light when the button is pressed or it lights continuously, i.e., longer than length of time the button is pressed. The processor must be restarted."

"2. Restarting the processor.

2.1 Remove battery as described under Step 1.2.

2.2 Inserting battery briefly with polarity reversed.

2.2.1 After a waiting time of at least 10 seconds, slide battery with the polarity of the battery reversed (positive terminal downwards) under the tab (Figure 1, arrow 2).

2.2.2 Clip battery downward into the holder.

2.2.3 After a waiting time of approx. 3 seconds, remove this incorrectly polarized battery again.

2.3 Install battery as described under Step 1.3.

2.4 Check the function of the remote control."

Hmm, didnt quite understand this.

So basically i have to insert the battery the wrong way, wait ten seconds, slide it around (which means turning it around in the battery holder while it is inserted the wrong way?), remove the battery, insert the battery the wrong way again, wait 3 seconds and remove it again and insert it the correct way?

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Pull out battery, wait 10 seconds then install the battery backwards, and wait 3 seconds. Then remove battery and reinstall

the correct way.

I replaced battery in my dead remote and now the red led flickers quickly on/off continuous as soon as the battery is inserted. Tried batt other way around etc but still the same outcome !!! It stops after about 2mins ???

The only time it stops (while on for the 2 mins) is if i keep either the boot/front switch depressed. Also once it has stopped the same 2 buttons sart it up again ??

Edited by bilabonic
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One of my remotes isn't working, either. It's a 996 key (PO got it because it was in stock and compatible, but it's missing a rear trunk button) that worked just fine until the battery died. Now, it doesn't work. The lights blink when I push the button, but the car does nothing. I tried the TSB twice, but it didn't work.

To be clear: reversing the polarization does not actually reverse the polarization and change +3V into -3V, but effectively just shorts the two battery terminals together? Anyhow, I removed it ten seconds, backwards for 3 seconds, and go. Same thing- lights blink normally, but it doesn't work.

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Those little batteries are notorious for being DOA out of the package.

If you test them they show 3V but when you draw current the V instantly drops.

But if that's the case, the lights on the key should'nt work as normal should they?

I bought Varta batteries (dunno if they are a big brand in the US, but they are in Europe).

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A LED may operate down below a volt.

Usually ppl comment that the flashing gets slower as the battery dies.

I'm just saying I would try to find a known working battery.

Maybe try holding the key right up next to the A-pillar.

I've never heard of the continuous flashing, perhaps a button is stuck. Sounds like it may have bit the dust.

There's allot of voodoo written about keys. There are some instructions on 'resynchronizing' your key

by putting it in the door and pressing the lock/unlock button or something like that. I've never had to try

it but apparently it works for some people.

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  • 2 weeks later...

2000 Boxster S, bought used, from non-Porsche dealer. Keys both properly blink when buttons are pressed but I get no lock/unlock operation. The things I have done:

1. Replaced both batteries and got out my Multi-meter and did a check on battery performance. Both keys look good and are >3.0V when pressing a button on the key. Using the key near the A pillar of the car or near the car has no effect on the locks. Leds on both keys function as expected.

2. The user manual indicates to manually unlock the car door and with the key still in the door, press the button #1, lock/unlock button, this is supposed to re-synch the electronics IF the car had been sitting for more than 5 days. I did this, still no operation of the key remotes.

3. The internet indicates that if the button has been pressed more than 256 times and less than 1024 times, the system needs to be zeroed, as there is some rolling counter that is used between the keys and the car electronics. This zeroing is done by placing the key into the ignition, turning the key on but not starting, then turning the key off and removing, then pressing the lock button on the key WITHIN 6 seconds. I did this with both keys, and still no remote lock operation.

What is my next step?

Edited by scrowner
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What is my next step?

I have tried all of this myself, and remote locking/unlocking still doesn't work. At the moment i have given up, and just lock/unlock the car with the key... I'm thinking that it might be either my alarm box, or the fuse on my alarmbox (which is under the drivers seat)... But then, should the alarm work at all?

A Porsche dealer wants like $300 for a new programmed key-head here.... Which is just insane. I won't pay that unless i know that it will work 100%, which i can't find out, since it's a 8 hours drive to the dealership...

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1-3. Posted previously.

4. Interior button to lock/unlock doors works fine. So Alarm box fuse must be OK. Besides, when manually locking the doors, I can see the alarm flash on the dash near the windshield momentarily or double flash if I leave the boot open.

The keys seem just fine and the LEDs seem to blink as expected with a push of the button. This must be something simple....

What next?

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A Porsche dealer wants like $300 for a new programmed key-head here.... Which is just insane. I won't pay that unless i know that it will work 100%, which i can't find out, since it's a 8 hours drive to the dealership...

I am right there with you on the silly $300. I was quoted $325 just to figure it out by my dealer. We will get an answer. :huh:

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A Porsche dealer wants like $300 for a new programmed key-head here.... Which is just insane. I won't pay that unless i know that it will work 100%, which i can't find out, since it's a 8 hours drive to the dealership...

I am right there with you on the silly $300. I was quoted $325 just to figure it out by my dealer. We will get an answer. :huh:

All I can do is laugh at this... I have the EXACT same problem, on the EXACT same model and year! 2000 Boxster S, LEDs work, alarm works, manual key works etc. Tried all the same steps and no result... I gave up a while ago too... but glad to see it's not just me :) I'm staying in the loop on this one as I'm hoping for a solution. :)

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A Porsche dealer wants like $300 for a new programmed key-head here.... Which is just insane. I won't pay that unless i know that it will work 100%, which i can't find out, since it's a 8 hours drive to the dealership...

I am right there with you on the silly $300. I was quoted $325 just to figure it out by my dealer. We will get an answer. :huh:

All I can do is laugh at this... I have the EXACT same problem, on the EXACT same model and year! 2000 Boxster S, LEDs work, alarm works, manual key works etc. Tried all the same steps and no result... I gave up a while ago too... but glad to see it's not just me :) I'm staying in the loop on this one as I'm hoping for a solution. :)

Actually, here's a little bit more diagnosis.... on my remote (after trying all steps as indicated above). The RED LED does not blink at all when pressing the lock/unlock button... the trunk release button however, if i hold it down, blinks fast 5 times, then stops, then blinks 5 times, stops, etc... until the button is depressed. :huh:

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I feel your pain.

When I bought my 996, it came with two keys. One had electronics inside it and the LED would blink, but it didn't remotely lock/unlock the doors. The other had no electronics at all. They both would start the car.

I took the one with electronics to the dealer. He tried to reflash it, but said it was corrupted and wouldn't take the flashing. I think it was $250 to get a new key head and have it programmed.

Now the reprogrammed key will start the car, but the old one without electronics won't. I guess my immobilizer is now active?

Anyway, I'm not impressed with the key design. They seem really flaky.

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If you have tried batteries and the reset procedure and it still does not work then you likely need a new key.

Probably yes. But what are the chances that both my keys go defective at the same time, just when i have replaced the batteries in the keys?.. Doesn't sound right...

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If you have tried batteries and the reset procedure and it still does not work then you likely need a new key.

Probably yes. But what are the chances that both my keys go defective at the same time, just when i have replaced the batteries in the keys?.. Doesn't sound right...

You can try having them re-programmed by a dealer/OPC.

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We are amassing more weird problems an not getting to solutions. Need to cut the snake, so to speak. Is it the key or the car? How do we determine this? I have two keys, both work fine manually but do not work remotely. (This is true for at least 2 more persons here.) Tomorrow I will take the keys to work and see if there is any emissions from them when pushing the button. I have some equipment to look at this as I work with wireless communication equipment. I will report back what I find.

I am sure all have seen this: http://boxster.wikia.com/wiki/Alarm,_Keys,_Remote

but I am placing this here for picture purposes. What I gather from this wiki is that the transponder is separate from the electronics. Can we assume we can buy new electronics, replace our potentially defective boards, leaving the "unique" transponder in place and bingo have working remotes?

Are there no Porsche service persons on this site who know what this issue is? There are at least 3 of us interested in reading what has happened to our remotes and knowing for sure the correct action to take. If you work in Porsche service...please chime in! :unsure:

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Are there no Porsche service persons on this site who know what this issue is? There are at least 3 of us interested in reading what has happened to our remotes and knowing for sure the correct action to take. If you work in Porsche service...please chime in! :unsure:

I think they have already answered here. There is no "magic bullet".

1. Change the battery.

2. Try the reset procedure.

3. Try reprogramming the key to the immobilizer.

4. Replace the key and program it to the immobilizer.

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