Jump to content

Server Lease Renewal/Software Licenses

Our yearly server lease, software licenses, as well as hardware operating costs, ARE due Dec 6th, 2021. Our current donations have fallen far short of the funds we need to renew. Please remember the RennTech.org community is Member supported so please consider a donation to help...  THANK YOU!

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

After 5 years of solid starting, my car finally decided to act up.

Got in as usual, interior lights came on. Turned the key and everything electrical came on, but the car would not turn over. Nothing, nada, no sound.

After some quick checking here, I did the following.

1. Wiggled the key in the ignition (no change)

2. Checked all fuses. (all good)

3. Bypassed the clutch switch (no change)

Any additional items I should check before scheduling a tow?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any update with this? If it still doesn't start, check to be sure all the pieces that connect right behind the key switch are still all connected. One time on my 986S, the connection became separated, and while I got dash lights and other electrical stuff, got nothing when I turned the key.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello,

I had a similar problem in my new-to-me 2000 C2 cab. One day the car was fine, next day it was dead. In my case the battery just died. I suspect that internally is broke such that it had proper voltage (about 12.7 at rest, and not excessively charging when running) but not enough amps to turn the engine over.

I was able to start the car with a simple jump pack, or by jump-starting from another car (the jump start terminals are in the engine compartment).

A new battery solved the problem. I bought an Interstate from the local auto parts place that cost about $100 and was a perfect fit.

Good luck,

Barry

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi All,

After 5 years of solid starting, my car finally decided to act up.

Got in as usual, interior lights came on. Turned the key and everything electrical came on, but the car would not turn over. Nothing, nada, no sound.

After some quick checking here, I did the following.

1. Wiggled the key in the ignition (no change)

2. Checked all fuses. (all good)

3. Bypassed the clutch switch (no change)

Any additional items I should check before scheduling a tow?

Likewise - the same thing happened to my '03 C4S. Actually, it started fine after work (although a little sluggish on the cranking) and then when I stopped for gas on the way home it wouldn't re-start. Battery was the original, so a bit over 5 yrs. old. I put in a new one from Autozone for about $100 w/core charge.

Andy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i bought my car with an gps transmiter mounted.

one day..same simptoms,lights ,oil test come on but no sound from the starter

my baterry was 12,2 v,changed a new one,voltages goes to 12,7 and...nothing new.

finnaly it turned to be the gps reciver(it is under the fuse panel) wich was probablly malfunctioning,i remove it and car started instanntly

you should also check this out

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just as an fyi. I bypassed both sets of wires for the clutch switch (not knowing which one) using a single strand of copper wire. Would it matter?

If I recall correctly, the switch on the left side of the clutch peddal is the kill switch to start the car, the switch to the right of the clutch pedal is for the cruise controll. Corect me if I'm wrong.

After by-passing the switch/es, did the car start?

Edited by hi8ha
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I just tried a jump with no change. The volt meter moved to 13.5 13.7 with the other car running, but my car didn't make a sound. Could it still be the battery or is there another place I should look?

Well I suppose the list just got bigger. I did have an issue with the alarm control unit that died (996-618-262-03)...car made no sound. Replaced under warranty.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just as an fyi. I bypassed both sets of wires for the clutch switch (not knowing which one) using a single strand of copper wire. Would it matter?

If I recall correctly, the switch on the left side of the clutch peddal is the kill switch to start the car, the switch to the right of the clutch pedal is for the cruise controll. Corect me if I'm wrong.

After by-passing the switch/es, did the car start?

I have a wires on the left side and wires above the pedal. I originally bypassed the left side thinking there was only one. When I got down lower I saw the other switch. It looks more like the correct one since it seems to wire directly to button that is released when the clutch is depressed.

The car did nothing regardless of which one was bypassed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I just tried a jump with no change. The volt meter moved to 13.5 13.7 with the other car running, but my car didn't make a sound. Could it still be the battery or is there another place I should look?

Well I suppose the list just got bigger. I did have an issue with the alarm control unit that died (996-618-262-03)...car made no sound. Replaced under warranty.

I just tried setting off the alarm. Rolled down the window, locked the car, stuck my hand inside, alarm went off. Car locks properly, radio works, lights come on, gauges all register.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The only thing that's been brought up other than a faulty switch or fuse is the battery not passing the correct voltage.

Since attempting a jump pushed the volts up into the 13.5 range and nothing happened, how likely is it that the battery is the problem?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The only thing that's been brought up other than a faulty switch or fuse is the battery not passing the correct voltage.

Since attempting a jump pushed the volts up into the 13.5 range and nothing happened, how likely is it that the battery is the problem?

Are you sure no fuses are blown? I've overlooked a blown 7.5amp fuse easily, they are hard to tell if they are blown. Your battery sounds fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As Loren and JeTexas have said, start with the old battery. If you have a VOM, check the voltage after first turning on the headlights for 30 seconds. This will burn of the surface charge of the battery.

Voltage Charge Specific Gravity

12.6 100% 1.28-1.26

12.45 75% 1.25-1.23

12.30 50% 1.22-1.20

12.15 25% 1.19-1.17

As you can see, if you have less than 12.3 volts your car will not start. A sulphated battery will often indicate a good voltage but will not start a car due to high resistance caused by sulphation and the high current draw required to start a car. Your starter will draw 200+ amps to start. If you have an ammeter, check to see the draw to the starter. I have a Craftsman 73756 that works great and is more accurate than the old Snap-on inductive ammeter set I had.

I have had two problems that have caused no starts on my 996. The first was a battery with a dead cell. I had taken my car to the dealer for the gas cap recall and the tech drove the car to the customer pick-up after changing the cap. The car would not start when I tried to leave. All lights worked, but nothing from the starter. A specific gravity test (in my presence) showed a cell had packed it up. Convenient that I was at the dealer for a free gas cap, but costly since they only sold Porsche batteries. The second issue I have had is ignition switch failures (4 of them). This is a quick fix and I can do it is about 10 minutes, but the next one that goes in will be the full assembly.

Please note that a jump start my not work with a battery that has a dead cell or has an internal failure due to the high current draw. Also, check your battery terminals for oxidation when you change the battery. Poor connections (or bad grounds) will cause a no-start.

Edited by slbates
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.