Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Sign in to follow this  
apanossi

Bad clutch? What is this noise?

Recommended Posts

I have been having trouble with a clutch issue involving a constant noise from the bell housing area. I have posted here before about this but all previous suggestions have been tried without success. I am attaching an audio recording of the noise, which comes on after the car warms up and is idling in neutral, and goes away when the clutch is depressed. This has been a frustrating process since I have so far spent more than $5000 on trying to fix this issue. The car runs great, but ignoring the noise in the past eventually led to a clutch failure. I have had the clutch kit, flywheel, and throwout bearings fixed about 3 times each by both the dealer and a well-reputed indy. Could this be an issue with the slave cylinder for the clutch? None of this is making any sense.

996 bellhousing noise 1.mp3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Could the release lever be involved somehow. Maybe bent?

Do you only hear it at idle or is it present at other RPMs. I would guess so.

It might be worth bleeding and then if no success perhaps replacing the slave cylinder, maybe it isn't fully retracting when you release the clutch?

Not sure of your MY but you can get a new slave cylinder for about $110 + shipping.

And then bleeding is fairly straight forward, there is a DIY here on bleeding brakes an slave cylinder.

Edited by logray

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow I have never heard anything like that. I hope you get it figured out.. Bent realease lever could be the culprit but I don't know.. Seems odd that your tech can't diagnose the problem.. :eek:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for that link. I hope that's not what is truly going on? Can a bad master clutch cylinder produce the noise I describe? Of note, the car continues to perform well with no lag or particularly sticky gear shifts. I'm also able to make the noise go away sometimes when I play with the clutch pedal in neutral.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Master cylinder noise would be from the front.

Slave cylinder noise would be from above the transmission.

On the rennlist thread speed rII had a good suggestion, can't remember it right now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kind of hard to believe the problem has been looked into 3 times by 2 different shops and no one can diagnose your issue ? I will assume they replaced the shift fork along with the throwout bearing, so beyond that, it sounds like you've got crankshaft bearing issues as one respondent has already suggested as there are no other moving parts where you say the noise is coming from. Time to find another repair shop.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I guess it may indeed be time to look for some new ideas. Tony Callas at Callas Rennsport was suggested. May be the next stop for me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can you list the components replaced to date?

I would also inspect the crankshaft for movement to rule out a worn thrust brng. Does it make this noise whilst in any gear with any wheel speed or does it increase with wheel speed or engine RPM?

I would also drain the transaxle and inspect the oil for swarf.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like your thrust bearing (in engine) is allowing for too much axle play. Have someone start the engine and push the clutch in.... watch the crank pull to see if it moves out when they press the clutch in and moves back in when they release. I dont know the tolerances of the crankshaft axle play but i know its tight. You may even place a screwdriver just in front of the pully, and see if it starts rubbing when your freind pushed the clutch in.

My 2nd quess would be that someone bent (twisted) the clutch fork while doing the clutch job by just pulling the tranny only and not taping the fork down untill the tranny was lined up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By Uwon
      2006 C2S, All highway driving. From past experience with my cars, I know that I am gentle on my clutch/trani. 108,000 miles on original clutch. Pedal travel is still 2.5-3.0 inches from floor to start of engagement. I do not think that pedal effort has increased. Am I on borrowed time? 
      Thoughts?
      Thanks in advance.
      Johan
    • By CHARLES KORN
      Can the standard 2001 Boxster Roadster 2.7 L Porsche clutch friction disk be installed backwards?  If so what feature faces the forward (towards motor) direction?
    • By Steve Mongrain
      Hi Guys,
       
      Aircraft engine Tech, currently replacing the clutch on my AutoX 1999 996 C2, first time tackling a clutch/ IMS job.
       
      While the clutch & Pressure plate are worn out, I inspected the flywheel, based on Porsche's TSB 911 8/02 1360, & found it to be a bit worn, but serviceable. Common knowledge suggest to replace the flywheel every second clutch change or every 100K miles.
       
      Considering the high price of the flywheel, is it Worth it to replace it right now or I can expect it to last until the next clutch change?
    • By Boxyowner
      Looking for your help? I just did a complete clutch replacement on my 2003 Boxster. After getting the engine and transmission in and completely bleeding the clutch hydraulics 3 time, my clutch pedal sticks after depressing especially at higher rpms. Did something else break in the process? Thank you for your responses.
    • By RODAN
      Hi All,
       
      Please forgive me if I'm repeating a post. I've looked for a solution to my issue fairly thoroughly and both online or in person I have found little information on the subject specific to the automobile or mostly dismissive answers to the question:
       
      "What, if any component or piece of the transmission/clutch system governs the engagement point as it relates to pedal travel?"
       
      The car is a 2003 TT and when I had the cooling tubes pinned I had a stage 2 clutch installed.
       
      When I first bought the car I thought that the pedal "caught" high in comparison to our 2001 C4 and 2003 C2, I wanted to simply lower the progression and I expected the 600+ HP rated clutch to be heavier.
       
      In effect this all had the exact opposite effect. The clutch catches extremely high through about three degrees of pedal travel. 
       
      Does anyone out there know enough about this system to perhaps comment on the situation?
       
      I am suspecting the springs govern the progression. But then what governs the spot where engagement begins? I would find the car far easier to drive if it could be moved closer to the floor. Right now I have to physically bend my knee to release the clutch and with so little progression it's actually hard to drive smoothly.
       
      I can honestly say I wouldn't buy it if I test drove it like it is now. Biggest mistake I ever made with a car.
       
      Any information or advice would be greatly appreciated.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.