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By Schnell Gelb
I need some advice on what further tests to do before I start disassembling the camshaft.
The code is "1341 = Camshaft adjustment Bank 1 below limit value." But I think this is misleading. Normally , this would be just a failed Solenoid or Variocam actuator. Btw ,these comments apply equally to a Bank 2 fault.
But if you look at the Durametric data below ,there is a hint of a cheaper but much more stupid error.
I recently rebuilt the engine. It runs beautifully. But has only run a few hours because I can't get rid of the 11341 fault code to get a Smog Test.
The Actual Values alone are clear but not when you look at the Deviation, not so much. All values are with a warmed up engine(fans kicked in several times)
1, Actual angle at idle rpm, Bank 1, 0.3 to 0.8 deg. At 3000 rpm only 2 degrees ! Bank 1 solenoid measures 13 ohms(perfect) but will not activate with Durametric , nor with the Ahsai 12v battery test.
2. Actual angle at idle rpm, Bank 2, 0.02- 0.2 deg . At 3000 rpm 20 degrees - perfect. Bank 2 solenoid can be activated by Durametric or by the external 12v source.
3, Deviation Position 1 at idle is 14.9 deg and stable - it should be +/- 6 deg !
4. Deviation Position 2 at idle is zero and stable- 0.00 ,nada .
Please check my logic/knowledge here because I need help.
My theory is that I must have failed to time Bank 1 correctly. It is so far out that the Camshaft Advance will not activate ?
The stable deviation is because of new chains,IMSB , chain rail pads and tensioners.
So I need to re-time Bank 1. If it seems to be perfectly timed - look for a Camshaft Position Sensor problem ?
I'll bench test Bank 1 Actuator to see if it has a firm 1/16" 'jump' .If it is doubtful I'll replace it because of the time involved.
Fortunately I have the cam tools and Insite's helpful classic post on timing the M96.
Before I start dismantling , what else to test?
Maybe connect between the Bank 2 harness and Bank 1 to try to activate the camshaft advance (Jake Raby suggested this in a related Thread)
I get no reading on the Multimeter when I connect to the Bank 1 harness but do get the correct voltage (10V) on Bank 2 . No, I did not connect to chassis ground(thanks Ahsai!)
This is an interesting example of needing to use 2 different(but related) readings from Durametric to make an accurate(??) diagnosis. If I had just fitted a new Actuator +solenoid($1000 ! ) ,the basic fault may still be present.And I would have to repeat all that dismantling again !
So thanks for any suggestions of more diagnostic tests.
By Bruce in Philly
9A1 105 308 03 VVS (02 superseded by 03 variable valve system actuator)
Anyone replace one?
What are the symptoms?
How do you identify which one may be lazy?
How many per bank? The PET digram denotes (1) so I assume that is one per side no?
These appear very easy to replace as the sit next to the spark plugs. I will be doing my plugs in a few months, early spring so I am thinking of just swapping these out.
The reason is that pesky hesitation I get under moderate load at around 2800 RPM. The dealer, as others on various boards, think it is the variocam transition. This looks like about a $150 dollar each part. I am willing to throw $300 at this issue.
I do have the Durametric Pro.... but no clue as to what to look for regarding these actuators.
Bruce in Philly
2009 C2S Coupe
Car in question: 1999 C4, M96.02, 41k miles (had it since 20k miles), original/stock IMS bearing
Alright, so I stumbled on some posts regarding durametric readouts for camshaft deviation to check into the health of the IMS. I remembered I logged a bunch of real-time parameters back in 2012 just to establish a baseline with my new Durametric tool at the time. I finally found my old hard drive with the data and to my surprise, my camshaft position 1 deviation read -8.97 cold at idle and varied down to -9.53 when driving around. Camshaft deviation, position 2 is solidly at -3.19 regardless of engine speed. On another post, I read that the durametric software may have had issues logging this parameter at the time.
No CELs, no logged errors, been running fine for the last three years, and yes, I drive the snot out of it. When I cut the oil filter I find the random tiny shards brown plastic from the variocam guides. I have a magnetic drain plug and have only seen a light amount of the typical fine metal on it. The previous owner kept meticulous records of all work done at the dealer, and no major engine work was ever done other than oil changes. I found a post about a potentially bent sensor plate on the cam where the engine is correctly timed but the sensor is reading the parameter incorrectly??
My thought at the moment is to not drive the car, pop the green plugs and check timing as well as pulling the sump pan for inspection. I also plan to log the camshaft deviations this week with the newer version of the software and see what I get. Assuming I get the same numbers, I have some questions:
1. Since the position 1 is moving around a little bit between running and idle (~0.78 degrees), should I start having my heart attack now?
2. If the timing is off by this amount, is it a simple re-timing of bank 1 if all else looks OK?
3. Dumb question also is how much timing adjustment can be made since the sprocket appears to have large slots for adjustment?
4. Another dumb question is if bank 1 skipped a tooth, would I know it already?
5. Should I just open up the bank 1 valve cover to inspect/replace the variocam pads? (trying to do the least invasive first)
6. Anything else to check/do?
Thanks for reading.