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I am starting to prepare my car for a track day at Chuckwalla valley raceway at the end of the month, and I was told that the car as it sits has oiling issues? My car is a 2003 Carrera. I bought the car last year with 74k miles and immediately did the following: LN IMS bearing, Waterpump, coil packs, spark plugs, all filters and fluids, clutch + flywheel and a stock AOS. In anticipation of the event, I am going to do an oil change from M1 0w-40 to the Joe Gibbs dt40 oil suggested by Jake Raby along with fresh filters. Is there anything else I need to do to not have oil starvation? Is this issue blown out of proportion? does the 2qt sump extension make that much of a difference? will it affect the streetability? I am running 200tw tires.
I plan to replace the RMS and IMSB on my 2003, Carrera, Coupe, 3.6, Tiptronic. I have read about the MB version of the Tiptronic requiring the removal of the trans/engine together while the ZF can be removed separately. Is this true and how can I determine which one that I have? I crawled underneath and could not see an I.D. tag. So far I have found conflicting information regarding the trans. in this car.
By Schnell Gelb
I need some advice on what further tests to do before I start disassembling the camshaft.
The code is "1341 = Camshaft adjustment Bank 1 below limit value." But I think this is misleading. Normally , this would be just a failed Solenoid or Variocam actuator. Btw ,these comments apply equally to a Bank 2 fault.
But if you look at the Durametric data below ,there is a hint of a cheaper but much more stupid error.
I recently rebuilt the engine. It runs beautifully. But has only run a few hours because I can't get rid of the 11341 fault code to get a Smog Test.
The Actual Values alone are clear but not when you look at the Deviation, not so much. All values are with a warmed up engine(fans kicked in several times)
1, Actual angle at idle rpm, Bank 1, 0.3 to 0.8 deg. At 3000 rpm only 2 degrees ! Bank 1 solenoid measures 13 ohms(perfect) but will not activate with Durametric , nor with the Ahsai 12v battery test.
2. Actual angle at idle rpm, Bank 2, 0.02- 0.2 deg . At 3000 rpm 20 degrees - perfect. Bank 2 solenoid can be activated by Durametric or by the external 12v source.
3, Deviation Position 1 at idle is 14.9 deg and stable - it should be +/- 6 deg !
4. Deviation Position 2 at idle is zero and stable- 0.00 ,nada .
Please check my logic/knowledge here because I need help.
My theory is that I must have failed to time Bank 1 correctly. It is so far out that the Camshaft Advance will not activate ?
The stable deviation is because of new chains,IMSB , chain rail pads and tensioners.
So I need to re-time Bank 1. If it seems to be perfectly timed - look for a Camshaft Position Sensor problem ?
I'll bench test Bank 1 Actuator to see if it has a firm 1/16" 'jump' .If it is doubtful I'll replace it because of the time involved.
Fortunately I have the cam tools and Insite's helpful classic post on timing the M96.
Before I start dismantling , what else to test?
Maybe connect between the Bank 2 harness and Bank 1 to try to activate the camshaft advance (Jake Raby suggested this in a related Thread)
I get no reading on the Multimeter when I connect to the Bank 1 harness but do get the correct voltage (10V) on Bank 2 . No, I did not connect to chassis ground(thanks Ahsai!)
This is an interesting example of needing to use 2 different(but related) readings from Durametric to make an accurate(??) diagnosis. If I had just fitted a new Actuator +solenoid($1000 ! ) ,the basic fault may still be present.And I would have to repeat all that dismantling again !
So thanks for any suggestions of more diagnostic tests.
I'm looking for advice in maintaining my well kept 2000 Boxster.
In 2003, I bought a 2000 base Boxster with 14,000 miles (manufactured 11/99, 2.7L, MT) from a Porsche dealer in Massachusetts, where I primarily reside. The car now has just under 40,000 miles. So I've only driven it 26,000 miles in 13 years, and I have had no major problems. I had maintenance done by the dealer initially for about 5 years, but then switched to a more local independent mechanic with a good reputation, as the dealer was over an hour's drive each way.
Last year I bought a condo in Naples, FL, and decided to drive the car down and leave it there. My mechanic replaced the engine drive belt as a preventive measure before the drive south, and the car was excellent for the long ride. Other than that, over the years, I've mostly only had routine and timely oil changes, plugs, and filters. I replaced the top and the tires a couple of years ago. The CEL did come on at times about a year ago, but it could not be reliably diagnosed. The mechanic suspected an O2 sensor. But the light since went off and all seems well since. Sometimes I can get a puff of smoke when I start it, especially after it was sitting for an extended period, but this resolves when the car is driven more regularly. I believe I have a good storage protocol for the times the car is idle.
In recent years, the AC has been declining. The mechanic added refrigerant periodically, which worked for perhaps a year at a time. I am due for that at least, if not more at this point, as there is no cold at all now. In Massachusetts, this was less of an issue, but now I want to get that more correctly resolved. The AC seems more noisy than it was previously (up front?), so I imagine there's a leak or other issue.
Outside of the AC problem, the car is operating perfectly as far as I can tell. I drive it about 5 weeks a year while in Florida. It is in excellent cosmetic condition, barely a scratch, and always garaged. I'd like to continue to operate the car in this manner indefinitely for the next several years, and hope to spend increasingly more time (winter) in Florida as time passes. Does anyone have any advice for me as to how I should proceed with this car? It looks and drives like new. I'm not a mechanic. I hear and read about the IMS bearing, the AOS, and other issues. I've not had the brakes or clutch done, but they seem fine. Even the battery is from 2003 and the car starts right up.
So I appreciate any advice moving forward. Should I have some of these things dealt with preemptively, instead of waiting for a more expensive failure? I'd like to bring the car in for maintenance and hope I can find a conscientious and competent mechanic to assist me. Does anyone have any recommendations for a local mechanic and/or the dealer in Naples? Would anyone recommend going to an "AC specialist" type place for that one particular issue over a mechanic or the dealer?