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By Paul Forster
Just picked up an 01 996 Carrara and PO had installed a battery tender on the passenger side beside the battery tray but it was no longer functional, so I removed it. In the same area to the passenger side of the battery compartment there is a flexible clear tube unattached at its distal end originating close to the fuel filler neck.
Any idea what the tube is and is it correct for it to be disconnected
By Scott Clinton
I have a 2002 Porsche 996 Cabrio and earlier this year the immobolizer under the seat got wet. I purchased a used immobilizer, key for and ECU behind the rear seat. All of the parts came from the some year model etc. I put the parts in myself and everything worked great. Now i need a new key fob or atleast I think i do. The remote work sometimes and most of the time is doesn't. When its not working I cant lock or unlock the car with the remote and the front trunk will not open with the fob or the switch inside the car. When the fob works everthing works as it should in the car. Do you think this is a key fob issue or something else? Can i even get a key head programmed since these part are from a donor car? I do have the vin of the donor car.
For some reason my front drivers side speaker was going in and out then cut out completely. As a result I swapped out the speaker with another 4" speaker. I kept the existing plug and cut everything else out. I used the ring from the original to hold it down, but I cut small slots for the new speakers feet. Here are the photos but I did not make many notes.
After I install the speaker I noticed that it did not work but did work with volume turned up high. I tested it with the other front jack before soldering it all together. I also add a dab of plastic glue on sides since there was no screw. I had a hack saw but did not use it. The mini dremel was cool.
It might be worth noting that the red and yellow wires on the head unit needed to be reversed despite the diagram. Just look at the Crutchfield website and you will see it. I also swapped out the radio. I am going to sell it. It was a CDR-210. I am suspecting that my problem is the amp and that particular channel. Forgive the pictures I had shared it on my Facebook Story lol ?
By Philip Adler
Since I bought my Boxster the key-fob never worked, so my usual practice
is to put my key into the cylinder and turn it to unlock.
So this week, I did the procedure I've done hundreds of times, when after opening,
the resistance I've always felt while turning the lock disappeared! I could now
turn the key left and right, a full 180 degrees without any resistance. No movement
in the door latch.
And yet, when I roll the car down the driveway, the door locks do engage and so does the
latch. Something mechanical must have slipped off the cylinder assembly, and I know I'll
have to take the door apart to find out,
I'm wondering if anyone has had the same situation and what they've done to fix it.
I have a tough question for any advanced Renntech users who have either stripped a 997 back to minimum wiring for racing, or fixed key issues
Can anyone help with my alarm issues.
Im building a 997 Track car- using a salvage chassis and the remaining parts from a rolled and written off cabriolet. Im think the key worked to unlock to car before i pulled it apart, but cant be certain as the engine was already out so there were limit functions to activate then.
Since moving the dashboard and whole wiring loom into race chassis, I can unlock the doors (yes, its the correct key, ive moved the doors over too), and the dashboard lights up to tell me the current odometer values. However the whole time from when the battery is connected, the alarm siren is going off (currently a clamp muffles that noise to save the neighbors). I can put the key in the barrel, rotate, and then still remove it (the Barrel lock appears to electrically be live, as it releases the key).
My guess if that the key has lost its coding for the alarm system, but I've tried following these instructions, https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...working-2.html,
with all combinations of button holding, pushing the hazard light switch, foot on brake, and key in/out barrel .... without any success in recoding the key.
Its worth noting the windows dont go through the usual drop down upon lifting the door latch sequence, im assuming this is due to the alarm running.
- my options seem to be getting the local agent to reprogram the key
- are there any other steps i should try to revive the key. I do only have 1 for the wrecked chassis's system
- a final last though is am i missing some switch that needs bridging from the cabriolet circuits to tell if the roof is down/up