Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

 

So I'm having this issue that is driving me crazy. My SAI (Secondary AIr Injection) and Oxygen Sensor are not reaching "Ready Status"


A little background about my car. 
2006 Boxster S 3.2L
FVD Exhaust system
GMS Headers with 200 cell cats - has all 4 O2 sensors attached.
996 throttle body and distribution hose
ECU Tuning Group tune

 

I had the car up in BC Canada since 2009 (although it is a US car) and had no problems passing the sniffer and obdII tests - both before and after all the mods except for the ECU tune. 

 

I went to get my emissions testing done last week in Texas and failed due to the 2 systems being in not-ready status. I figured it might have to do with the cat delete ( ROW) configured in the tune. I sent my ECU back to ETG in California and had them re-flash my ECU in order to re-enable the O2 sensors. 
I cleared all codes and figured I would start fresh. I drove the car about 120 miles and attempted to follow the drive cycle mentioned in the forums but it was really tough with the roads out here. Everything is in ready status except for the SAI, and the O2 sensor. I can manually start the SAI using the Durametric system so I would believe the pump is not bad; however, I'm not

sure that I"m hearing the SAI start up when I cold start the engine.

 

For testing purposes I unplugged my O2 sensors from both bank1 and  bank2 and they both threw fault codes which confirms that the ECU tune re-activated my sensors. 

 

I've uploaded a few pictures with the results from a OBDII app as well as the Durametric Software to my Google Drive. I'm not quite sure how to interpret the Durametric Voltage results - especially the negative 50 V and -127V - seems quite odd. 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4ncE-o5M02DeUlLZVlxRV9hX3c

 

Any help or guidance will be appreciated as I'm out of ideas.  

 

Thanks,

Joel

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

OK, couple of points:  When you reprogrammed the DME, it has the same effect as clearing all codes, namely the car needs to run for some miles and drive cycles before the SAI will reset.  On some of the early 986's, it could actually take a couple hundred miles before this happened, so do be surprised.

 

As for the O2 sensor issue, Oxygen sensor voltages should be between 0.04v and 0.79v.  The DME is looking at the relative voltages before and after the cats to confirm the car is in air/fuel spec.  One sensor (the one behind the main cat) will produce a fairly steady voltage, while the one ahead of the cat will cycle in a sine wave like fashion if the cat is in good order:

 

ThreewaycatandO2sensoragingdiagnostics_z

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info JFP - nicely written. 

Any tips on how to monitor each of the sensors with Durametric? I've been winging it and not quite sure what the titles that I need to be monitoring/logging are for O2 before cats and O2 after cats. 

If the cats are bad, would the SAI simply not turn on at all? We're allowed to have 1 failure here in Texas so as long as I can get either the O2 or the SAI to turn on, I'll be happy - although I would like to get to the root of the problem as well. I've uploaded some O2 results from my OBDII Wifi app. - Again, I'm not sure whether these are pre or post cats. Bank2 displays "Not Used" when I try running a monitor on them. I wonder if that's relative to my issue. 

File_000A.jpg

File_001a.jpg

Edited by pike1181

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The SAI works independently of the cats, so cat performance will not effect it in anyway.

 

With your Durametric, you should be able to select both O2 sensors on each side, then graph their voltages in real time with the car running.  If everything is correct, you should see a graph trace that looks like my first example; if one or more sensor is off line, it will be obvious.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks JFP. I'll try to figure out where the 2nd set of sensors are listed in Durametric and try to run that test tomorrow. I'll post the results once I find the time to do it. 

On another note, I noticed yet another weird issue - my RPM's would fluctuate while idling. The fluctuation is noticeable as the car gets quieter, has a slight hesitation then back to normal - it does this in a regular pattern - quite similar to the O2 voltage regulation actually. 

File_000C.jpg

File_002C.jpg

File_003C.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks JFP. I'll try to figure out where the 2nd set of sensors are listed in Durametric and try to run that test tomorrow. I'll post the results once I find the time to do it. 

On another note, I noticed yet another weird issue - my RPM's would fluctuate while idling. The fluctuation is noticeable as the car gets quieter, has a slight hesitation then back to normal - it does this in a regular pattern - quite similar to the O2 voltage regulation actually. 

File_000C.jpg

File_002C.jpg

File_003C.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By Carerra
      2010 Carrera S 6M Cab 150k miles

      TLDR: Dealer tells me the code is 2402 and Durametric returns 0024 with a description that matches the dealer.
      I am getting screwey values when I look up actual values.
      I try to clear codes and they don't seem to clear.
      Has anyone else seen this?

      I got CEL after about 1000 miles after replacing the catalytic converters myself. I pulled the codes with my Durametric and got:
      0024 - DMTL Diagnosis module for tank leakage; pump drive rUpper limit exceeded
      0010 - Intake camshaft driver

      I took it to Porsche because I wrongly figured this was related to my cats. They pulled the codes and said the car was throwing 2402 and that the 0010 was in the system but had been there for a long time and was not relevant.

      Now I had cleared that 0010 about a half dozen times so I thought it was fresh. It did not register at the time, but that means my reset did not work.

      They said that it would cost $1,100 to replace the DM-TL and filter. It was very likely the right thing to do because they tried to actuate it and it would not spin.

      As I have dropped about $14k on my Porsche habit in the last 30 months and my wife has had about enough of this, I paid the diagnostic fee and replace the parts myself (saving about $700).

      Now my Durametric is still pulling the same codes plus a new one:
      0014 which it says is No signal/communication

      That code, like the 0024, is not in my copy of the Porsche 997 essential companion.

      So when went to look at live values relevant to the DM-TL the Durametric was putting in some weird results. Percents or bars when the units should have been seconds.

      Background: DM-TL is a complicated pump/sensor that determines that there are no leaks in the gas fume recycling system. It pulls low amps if there is a leak, so a high value means there is a problem with the pump or maybe a short.
    • By OscarAH1W
      Okay guys, I have been getting the CEL with this code for a while...  reset, drive a few times, no light... then returns on way home from Autocross...  So I order a post-cat O2 sensor and when I go to put it on, I notice that the Cat for bank 1 (Driver side) is on the other side because the exhaust crosses behind the engine...  I assumed that since it monitored the exhaust from bank one that it just plugged in on the other side of the engine bay.  I thought I was right because I drove it a few times with no light but on my way to Autocross last weekend, it came on again.  Before I start undoing stuff, do I have it backwards or does the car look at it as Bank1 if the sensor is plugged in on the Bank 1 side.  As anyone who has done this knows, it is a pain in the butt to get these in and out of a 996 GT3 so prior to subjecting myself to the discomfort, I figured I would solicit advice.  Thanks!!!
    • By Garra671
      Recently I had been noticing issues with my cooling system the coolant temp guage would go past the 0 on 180 and I wouldn’t hear fans or anything. (Already tested fans and resistors and relays).   The temperature Will continue to creep up if I sit still, with no signs of fans, AC OFF.

      I replaced the coolant temp sensor. Problem fixed!! Then same issue again it seems after a week of driving.  

      Now i currently have ordered another temp sensor just Incase I maybe did something to cause the other new one too fail, I’ll be changing it again today.

      However I was doing the climate control hack to check my actual temperatures today while doing a short troubleshooting drive. And I noticed my oil temperature said 0, which is physically impossible 🙄


      Is it possible the oil temp guage is throwing off the coolant sensor?    Is it even possible for the oil temp sensor too go bad but not the oil level sensor? (They are a 2 in 1 sensor)   

      THANK YOU IN ADVANCE
    • By crwarren11
      Hi all,
      2000 Boxster Tiptronic with 113k mi.  I recently removed the transmission to deal with another issue, but while doing so some of the brittle SAI hoses cracked and/or became disassembled.  I have replaced the cracked lines (i.e. not all of the lines) and reconnected according to the following picture, with the exception that I have a Tiptronic and there is a hose that runs to a changeover valve on the transmission:

      I get the typical SAI codes, P0410 (80) and P1411 (208), about every 150mi driven.  Otherwise the car drives great...SAI pump is running and holding air as usual.
       
      Presumably, I have something connected incorrectly, possibly with respect to connection to the transmission changeover valve.  The one thing I notice different than before removing the transmission is that the car seems to be running cooler than before.  I suspect this could be caused by the changeover valve for the transmission as I think it controls the flow of coolant to the ATF cooler (not sure about this and hoping for clarification).  The other thing that I don't really suspect, is that the new hoses used do not have the small bulbed end to help with that snap-fit into the intake sleeves. 
       
      I have not found a good image showing the SAI hose routing for a 986 Tiptronic, so if anyone knows of one I would be very grateful.  I have the Bentley manual which also does not show a Tiptronic-specific diagram for SAI routing.
       
      Any other ideas or does this sound like simply incorrect hose connections?
       
      Many thanks for your input!
       
       
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.