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By Graeme Tate
I hate my pig but I love my pig, can anyone please help me before I send it for scrap. Over the space of the last 4 years of ownership my car has been in the Porsche dealers for 2 years in total with suspension problems, to cut a long story short this is now sorted and was due to a faulty replacement air bag being fitted. Moving on after 3 months of (almost) trouble free motoring this is what’s happening now and would love some advice as the closest porsche dealers is over 200 miles away from me.
When I picked up the car from Porsche it ran out of petrol before I got to the garage at the end of the road and although I filled it up it the engine warning light remained on I assumed this was just fuel related and drove home with it on and reset it when I got home.
Wind on a few weeks and the engine light came back on and gave me a camshaft position sensor error p0016 so I sent the car to my local Porsche mechanic who changed out the sensor and did a full service on the car including plugs filter oil etc etc. All this time the car has been running fine but as I wanted the sensor light out it was changed. However after changing it out the light came back on almost straight away. The car has been a bit sluggish to start sometimes and sometimes on pulling away from a stop has also been hesitant.
This was about 3-4 weeks ago and now it is worse again, at tickover it’s noisy, it doesn’t like acceleration and is running really rough although if you are going over 50mph it doesn’t have a problem and seems to run fine. The EML is now flashing rather than being a solid light. I attach a video of it running.
Any thoughts would be a help before I decide to get it hauled back across again
Sent from my iPhone
By Schnell Gelb
Here is a Camshaft Deviation situation with a much tighter focus than normal.I have also included the best links I found to help others who find this through Search.This is a 5 chain engine.2001.Boxster S.
The engine is just rebuilt by me. It runs wonderfully well with no Fault Codes, none. Great oil pressure.compression even on all cylinders. New chains,but original tensioners,new wear pads,new IMSB, IMS shaft pinned.
Bank 1 Deviation is negative 8 degrees. Bank 2 is much less than 1 degree negative. Spec is max 6 degrees +/-. Deviation is rock solid on both Banks throughout the rev. range(except for normal Variocam change). No Pending or Active Codes.
I recently had Bank 1 Cam Cover and Cams off to rectify an obscure VarioCam issue (Thank you PorscheTech3!). I re-timed the Cam on Bank 1 using the Baum Tools. The tools are excellent but clearly(?) need a degree of finesse in use that I was unaware of.
8 degrees CRK per Durametric is only 4 degrees at the cam so it is impossible to do a visual check of the slots in the Camshafts to confirm if this is a static cam timing issue or a Camshaft system component failure. So I am resigned to re-do the timing but need reassurance on the precise technique to use before I R&R the Cam Cover again.
Cam Timing Details are in the links at the end of this Post.
Here is the tentative plan that I hope others will be able to correct :
Follow Procedure in links below to lock the Cam with the Baum Tools close to TDC. To get perfect Cam timing, I'll need to very slowly rotate the Crankshaft forward toward TDC. Only when the tools fit perfectly will I lock the Baum Cam Timing tool. Then I'll try to insert the TDC Crankshaft Locking Pin.
Knowing that Bank 1 is excessively retarded 4 degrees(cam), I should expect that the Crankshaft Locking Pin will not slide in easily when the Cams are perfectly timed. At this stage I should loosen all the Camshaft Sprocket bolts. But not remove the (old) Chain Tensioner - right ?
Then the Crankshaft should need rotating 'forward' 8 degrees until the Crankshaft Locking Pin slides in easily.Then tighten the Camshaft Sprocket bolts. Then rotate many times and re-check.
The Bank 1 Timing Chain Tensioner is still very powerful and seems as 'strong' as Bank 2. When I refitted Bank 1 Tensioner last time, it required serious muscle to force it upward while delicately engaging the threads. So I assume it is functioning adequately and is not the cause of the out-of-range Camshaft Deviation .I am assuming it is original(90,000 miles).
What other components should be checked ?
I did check the Camshaft Position Sensor for correct fitment and the Reluctor ring for damage during the VarioCam repair.
see Post #7
Good dwg and description of mechanism and parts.
Please add your best links if you have any in your replies so that this may help others with the Deviation issue?
And thanks in advance for any suggestions and corrections.
By Schnell Gelb
I need some advice on what further tests to do before I start disassembling the camshaft.
The code is "1341 = Camshaft adjustment Bank 1 below limit value." But I think this is misleading. Normally , this would be just a failed Solenoid or Variocam actuator. Btw ,these comments apply equally to a Bank 2 fault.
But if you look at the Durametric data below ,there is a hint of a cheaper but much more stupid error.
I recently rebuilt the engine. It runs beautifully. But has only run a few hours because I can't get rid of the 11341 fault code to get a Smog Test.
The Actual Values alone are clear but not when you look at the Deviation, not so much. All values are with a warmed up engine(fans kicked in several times)
1, Actual angle at idle rpm, Bank 1, 0.3 to 0.8 deg. At 3000 rpm only 2 degrees ! Bank 1 solenoid measures 13 ohms(perfect) but will not activate with Durametric , nor with the Ahsai 12v battery test.
2. Actual angle at idle rpm, Bank 2, 0.02- 0.2 deg . At 3000 rpm 20 degrees - perfect. Bank 2 solenoid can be activated by Durametric or by the external 12v source.
3, Deviation Position 1 at idle is 14.9 deg and stable - it should be +/- 6 deg !
4. Deviation Position 2 at idle is zero and stable- 0.00 ,nada .
Please check my logic/knowledge here because I need help.
My theory is that I must have failed to time Bank 1 correctly. It is so far out that the Camshaft Advance will not activate ?
The stable deviation is because of new chains,IMSB , chain rail pads and tensioners.
So I need to re-time Bank 1. If it seems to be perfectly timed - look for a Camshaft Position Sensor problem ?
I'll bench test Bank 1 Actuator to see if it has a firm 1/16" 'jump' .If it is doubtful I'll replace it because of the time involved.
Fortunately I have the cam tools and Insite's helpful classic post on timing the M96.
Before I start dismantling , what else to test?
Maybe connect between the Bank 2 harness and Bank 1 to try to activate the camshaft advance (Jake Raby suggested this in a related Thread)
I get no reading on the Multimeter when I connect to the Bank 1 harness but do get the correct voltage (10V) on Bank 2 . No, I did not connect to chassis ground(thanks Ahsai!)
This is an interesting example of needing to use 2 different(but related) readings from Durametric to make an accurate(??) diagnosis. If I had just fitted a new Actuator +solenoid($1000 ! ) ,the basic fault may still be present.And I would have to repeat all that dismantling again !
So thanks for any suggestions of more diagnostic tests.